Last Sunday at the weekly market in Tlacolula de Matamoros…
Chickens
Rebozos
Seeds
Lunch
It’s not just about produce, bootleg DVDs, tools, and underwear.
Archive for the ‘Food’ Category
More from the market
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Food, Gardens, Markets, Textiles, Travel & Tourism, tagged artisan markets, chickens, grilled onions, market day, mercados, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, rebozos, seeds, shawls, Tlacolula de Matamoros on May 26, 2018| 4 Comments »
Fashion form following function
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Food, Markets, Travel & Tourism, tagged aprons, cooking, embroidery, mandiles, Mexico, Oaxaca, People, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Teotitlán del Valle, textiles, Tlacolula de Matamoros, women, Zapotec fashion on May 15, 2018| 18 Comments »
The lowly utilitarian apron has been elevated to an art form by the Zapotec women of the Tlacolula valley in Oaxaca. Worn every day, mandiles (aprons) are an essential and practical part of their traditional dress. Most women own several and take great pains to color coordinate them with the day’s attire.
Fiesta honoring the Virgen de Guadalupe at the home of Fidel Cruz and Maria Luisa Mendoza, Teotitlán del Valle.
Plainer aprons are worn around the home. However, they don one of their “Sunday best” aprons for special occasions. These are heavily embroidered and often have necklines and hems that are scalloped and, as a fashion statement, are frequently worn to the weekly market.
Vendor at the Sunday market in Tlacolula del Valle.
Mandiles are made of store-bought poly-cotton fabric, usually in a small plaid design. While “100% cotton” sounds more desirable to many of us, the blend is undeniably more practical. After all, who wants to iron when there is work to do and the temperatures are summery all year ’round?
Andrea weaving in Teotitlán del Valle.
Even though the embroidery is done by sewing machine, the more elaborate designs can take from three to four days days to make. Aprons range in price from approximately 150 to 700 pesos.
Leonor Lazo feeding a baby goat in Teotitlán del Valle.
Given that, in addition to being practical, these are also a fashion accessory, it should come as no surprise that styles can vary from village to village.
Young women from San Miguel del Valle attending a festival in Teotitlán del Valle.
I grew up with aprons. My grandmother lived next door and could always be found wearing a “house-dress” and a pinafore style apron with front patch pockets. Some were plain, but many she decorated with embroidery. Thus the mandiles of Oaxaca spoke to me and I listened.
Reyna Mendoza speaking to her El Sabor Zapoteco cooking class.
My first “Oaxaca” apron was a maroon plaid cobbler style with only a moderate amount of embroidery. After a year or two, it became so much a part of my home attire that I bought another in brown plaid. These are my workhorses and I wear them every day while cooking, cleaning, and even gardening. And, I proudly bring my own apron to cooking classes and make sure to pack one when I’ve been invited to a fiesta in Teotitlán del Valle — putting it on to help clear tables. I always get smiles from the women (and some of the men, too).
Me, mi mandil, a metate, and maiz at El Sabor Zapoteco cooking class in Teotitlán del Valle.
However, after countless Sunday market day trips to Tlacolula de Matamoros, not to mention, spending a lot time over the past several years in Teotitlán del Valle, I couldn’t help but be inspired by the fashion statements women, both young and old, were making, so I bought a slightly more elaborately embroidered pinafore style and then another and another.
Three of my mandiles; the red is the newest.
I even dared to wear one recently in New York at my granddaughter’s first birthday party. With children ranging in age from six weeks to six years, I thought it was a very practical fashion statement on my part. And, guess who got one for her birthday?
Birthday present to my granddaughter — a toddler-size mandil.
A good place to check out who is wearing what style of mandil is at Tlacolula’s Sunday market. And, should you want to buy one for yourself and/or give one as a gift, there are at least eight apron stalls at the back of the market on Sundays.
Apron stall at the back of the Tlacolula de Matamoros market.
More from the traditional cooks
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Food, Travel & Tourism, tagged aprons, artisan markets, artisans, Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca, cooking, Encuentro de Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca 2018, food festival, Mexico, mocajete, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, produce, textiles on May 12, 2018| Leave a Comment »
I couldn’t resist posting more from the Encuentro de Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca 2018 to tempt you to put next year’s gathering of traditional Oaxacan cooks on your calendar.
Higadito by Cristina Cruz, Villa Díaz Ordaz
Cocineras from San Andrés Chicahuaxtla
Aguardiente from Ixtlahuaca
Amazing traditional cooks from the state of Oaxaca served up taste tempting fare in the Plaza de la Danza for four full, and I mean FULL days, April 25-28.
Nicuatole prepared by Teresa Rosa Antonio Hernandez in the city of Oaxaca
Garnachas Istmeñas
Marzipan sweets from Ejutla de Crespo
Pozole Triqui from San Andrés Chicahuaxtla
And, should one be inspired to immediately head to one’s own kitchen, the Mercado Oaxaca set up in the courtyard of the Facultad de Bellas Artes (across from the Plaza de la Danza) offered mouth-watering fresh fruits and vegetables, herbs, dried chiles, honeys, vinegars, and so much more. I came away with a luscious cantaloupe.
In addition, to assist one in the preparation and serving of one’s own delicious meals, Arte de la Mesa presented vendors, next door in the courtyard of the Palacio Municipal, selling “made in Oaxaca” glassware, utensils, pottery, placemats, tablecloths, and dish towels, aprons, metates and molcajetes, among other kitchenware.
Do you see the piggy-face molcajete? I bought it and have spent hours and hours, not to mention muscle power, seasoning it. If you don’t believe me, use your favorite search engine to check out the various methods — there are no shortcuts!
Little piggies went to Oaxaca
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Food, Travel & Tourism, tagged cochinita, cochino a la cubana, Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca, cooking, food festival, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, rotisserie pork, spit-roasted pig, women cooks on April 28, 2018| Leave a Comment »
Though today is the fourth and final day of this year’s Encuentro de Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca 2018, diners continue to line up around the stall of Rosario Cruz Cobos for her Cochino a la Cubana — piggies roasted over a wood fire — fiesta food from San José Chiltepec in the Papaloapan region of Oaxaca.
Mouth-watering and succulent, it is well worth the wait!
Food and fun
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Food, Travel & Tourism, tagged calenda, Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca, convite, cooking, costumes, dancing, food festival, Mexico, Oaxaca, parade, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, women, women cooks on April 27, 2018| 6 Comments »
What can I say? Lately, I have been having way too much fun to blog. A Gran Convite on Tuesday evening kicked off the festivities celebrating Oaxaca’s 486 birthday and inviting one and all to the previously mentioned, 2nd Encuentro de Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca opening the following day. Beginning at the Cruz de la Piedra, the parade came to a sparkling climax in front of the Cathedral.
Wednesday began with an early morning ringing of the Cathedral’s bells (and several other churches, I’m pretty sure) and the booms and bangs of cohetes announcing Oaxaca’s official birthday. Then the event that I had been hungrily awaiting — the opening of the four-day gathering of Oaxaca’s traditional cooks at the Plaza de la Danza. It was worth the wait!
Mixtec ritual of Aromas y Sabores del Alma using basil and rosemary to open Encuentro de Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca.
Machacado mixe, Caldo mixe from Santa María Tlahuitoltepec in the Sierra Norte.
Chileajo amarillo from Huayuapan de León in the Mixteca.
Ingredients on display by Carina Santiago of Tierra Antigua restaurant in Teotitlán del Valle, in Oaxaca’s Valles Centrales.
Cochino a la cubana from the Papaloapan region of Oaxaca being served by cocinera Rosario Cruz Cobos.
There is also an expo-venta of Oaxacan artesanía at the Palacio Municipal adjacent to the Plaza de la Danza.
Some of the best red clay pottery from San Marcos Tlapazola for sale.
I took yesterday off to do my volunteer gig at the Oaxaca Lending Library, but I’m returning to the Encuentro today, right after I post this. My stomach is already rumbling!
Cocinera power
Posted in Culture, Food, food festival, Travel & Tourism, tagged Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca, comal, cooking, Encuentro de Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca 2018, food festival, metate, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Teotitlán del Valle, women, women cooks on April 22, 2018| 12 Comments »
Beginning Wednesday, April 25, there will be a four-day gathering of cooks in the Plaza de la Danza — and not just any cooks! The second Encuentro de Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca will be hosting 85 traditional female cooks from Oaxaca’s 8 regions, representing 10 ethnic groups and 58 communities. They will be offering more than 300 dishes, 30 desserts, 20 traditional beverages, and 70 varieties of tamales for sale from 1:00 PM – 9:00 PM each day in the Plaza de la Danza of Oaxaca. In addition, there will be cooking demonstrations, lectures, and regional music and folkloric dancing to entertain diners.
The Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca Facebook page explains that they are an organization that promotes the ancestral tradition of Oaxacan cuisine carried out by its women — an inheritance transmitted from grandmother to mother and from mother to daughter.
As you can see from these photos I’ve taken during the past year in Teotitlán del Valle…
Recipes and techniques…
And love and reverence for the knowledge and experience continues to be passed down through the generations.
Last year’s encuentro was fabulously delicious! If you are in Oaxaca or can find a way to schedule a last-minute trip here, I highly recommend attending this year’s Encuentro de Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca. I’ll be there everyday and hope to see you.
Priest, palms, produce, and procession
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Food, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Domingo de Palmas, Domingo de Ramos, Holy Week, Mexico, Oaxaca, offerings, Palm Sunday, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, priests, religion, San Antonino Castillo Velasco, San Salvador image, Semana Santa on March 26, 2018| 23 Comments »
If it’s Domingo de Ramos (Palm Sunday), I must be in San Antonino Castillo Velasco. I know there must be other villages that have colorful and moving celebrations, but the magic of San Antonino compels me to return year after year. Who can resist the spectacle outside the village panteón of watching el Señor del Burro be piled high with a cornucopia of fruits and vegetables and festooned with garlands of peppers and pan (bread)?
And, besides, each year there is always something a little new and different. To wit, in previous years parishioners presented their offerings with great pride to a committee of three or four women who formally received the donations, thanked the benefactors, and priced the items (for sale later in the day to benefit the work of the church). However, this year, in addition to offering blessings, it was the priest who interceded between the donors and the pricing committee to receive and express gratitude to each person for their contribution — be they grand or humble.
Once the young priest finished receiving the goods, he donned his ceremonial robes, offered prayers, and blessed everything (including my camera!) and everyone with holy water. This was the cue for palm fronds to be distributed to all and the altar boys and girls and disciples to assemble.
With the burro fully loaded, a team of 20+ extremely strong men hoisted the litter carrying the image of San Salvador atop the burro and, followed by villagers and visitors carrying the remainder of the goods collected, the journey to the church set off — a ritual reenactment of the Biblical story of Jesus entering Jerusalem to celebrate the Passover. As the procession made its way to the church, the rhythmic sounds of the drum and horn leading the way were occasionally overpowered by shouts warning the men of topes (speed bumps) and low hanging telephone wires that must be navigated.
The route is at least a kilometer from the panteón to San Antonino Obispo church and yesterday the sun was blazing, with not a cloud in the sky. It is a grueling act of faith for the men who bear this massive burden. The final hurtle was making their way up the steps and under the arch leading to the church atrium, where a platform to place el Señor del Burro awaited.
By 1:00 PM, the bounty to be sold had been hand (head) carried or trucked to the display area set up on the opposite side of the church atrium and it was time for the outdoor mass to commence. Thus, it was also time for us to duck out to browse the accompanying expo-venta of fabulous San Antonino embroidered blouses and dresses, flor inmortal artisan creations, the amazing and ongoing work of José García Antonio, the blind potter, and lastly find our favorite empanada vendor in the maze of food and artisan stalls set up outside the atrium walls. Yummm…
You should also check out the Oaxaca-The Year After blog– rumor has it that Chris will be posting a video of the procession in the next day or two (or three).
Shopping life and color
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Food, Markets, Travel & Tourism, tagged aprons, art, barbacoa, mandiles, markets, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, tianguis, Tlacolula de Matamoros, traje, vendors, women on February 5, 2018| 2 Comments »
After three weeks in el norte, all my bags are packed and I’m ready to return to Oaxaca. While malls and supermarkets abound here in the San Francisco Bay Area, shopping doesn’t hold a candle to experiencing the Sunday market in Tlacolula de Matamoros.
Sidewalk murals greet shoppers on their way to the mercado.
Wearing traditional skirts, blouses, rebozos, and aprons, vendors compete for customers.
Stopping inside the mercado for barbacoa de chivo is a delicious way to take a break.
The apron selection, like everything else, is mind boggling!
Lastly, another sidewalk mural to send shoppers on their way home.
There is nothing like the life and color of shopping in Oaxaca. ¡Hasta pronto!
A gal’s gotta eat
Posted in Animals, Casita Colibrí, Food, Restaurants, Science & Nature, Travel & Tourism, tagged Argiope, Carniceria Sonora, chile en nogada, comida, Las Quince Letras, lunch, Mexico, Oaxaca, orb weaver spiders, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, tacos on October 12, 2017| 6 Comments »
Lunch coming down out of the mountains in Colorado…
Tacos at Carniceria Sonora in Clifton, CO
Back in Oaxaca in time for a comida of September’s traditional dish…
Chiles en Nogada at Las Quince Letras Restaurante in Oaxaca de Juárez
And, not to be left out, Argiope showing off her freshly caught brunch…
Flies or bees or one of each on the terrace at Casita Colibrí
Gals, be they human or arachnid, have got to eat!
Gift of chocolate…
Posted in Food, Markets, Travel & Tourism, tagged chocolate, chocolate beans, chocolate skulls, Conchita, food, mercado 20 de noviembre, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations on August 23, 2017| 3 Comments »
As I’ve previously mentioned, my grandson loves skeletons and skulls AND he also loves Oaxacan chocolate. Recipe for the perfect gift to take to him: Go to my favorite chocolateria, Conchita (local # 210) inside Mercado 20 de Noviembre.
Take 1 kilogram of chocolate beans, add 1 kilogram of sugar and 25 grams of cinnamon sticks, and mill in the Mexicano embalado.
Bring home a plastic bag full of warm chocolate, spread out on a cookie sheet, let cool, then cut and stamp.
A recipe for the perfect gift to bring to my Day of the Dead loving, chocoholic grandson.
Week in Oaxaca – Day 3
Posted in Archaeology, Churches, Culture, Food, Restaurants, Travel & Tourism, tagged Benito Hernández, Cuilapam de Guerrero, Discover Oaxaca, Ex-monastery of Santiago Apóstol, Mexico, Monte Albán, moto taxis, murals, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Restaurante La Capilla de Zaachila, Villa de Zaachila, Week in Oaxaca on July 29, 2017| 2 Comments »
On day three of B’s week in Oaxaca, Benito (Discover Oaxaca) returned to pick us up a little after 9:00 AM. We wound our way up to the archeological site, Monte Albán — the imposing former capital of the Zapotecs. Construction of this commanding site, on top of an artificially flattened mountain, began around 500 B.C. By 350-550 A.D., it had become the economic, political, and religious center for the Zapotecs, and one of the first urban complexes in Mesoamerica. Though we were only there for two hours, I learned more from Benito than I had on my previous five or six unguided visits. While we were there, a specially fitted drone (archaeocopter) was being used by archaeologists — the sound was annoying, but once we figured out it was for research, it became more tolerable and rather intriguing. There is still so much to be uncovered!
Monte Albán – looking down onto the main plaza.
Coming down off the mountain, we took the scenic route, circling around the western base of Monte Albán, often bouncing along on dirt roads as we headed south to the Ex-monastery of Santiago Apóstol in Cuilapam de Guerrero. Construction began on this massive and elaborate Dominican complex in 1556 but was temporarily halted in the 1570s and never resumed — leaving behind a towering roofless basilica, ornate frescoes, and a magnificent Gothic cloister. There are several theories as to why it was never finished — lack of funds due to the extravagance, a dispute over land ownership, the decimation of the local indigenous population from 43,000 in the 1520s down to 7,000 in 1600, leaving few workers to construct it and natives left to convert. Climbing the stairs up to the second story terrace yields an impressive view and site from which to contemplate the impact of the Spanish conquest.
Murals inside the Ex-monastery of Santiago Apóstol, Cuilapam de Guerrero.
After an hour of roaming through the unfinished remains of the Ex-monastery, we returned to the van for the 4-mile drive to Villa de Zaachila. Thursday is market day and the village was alive with shoppers. From where we parked, we walked through the market, with B marveling at all there was for sale — from fresh fruits and vegetables to tools and kitchen ware to clothing and needlework to…. And, we never even made it to the livestock market.
Moto taxis taking people to and from the tianguis on market day in Villa de Zaachila.
Once through the market, we walked past the church and up a hill to the small archaeological site of the last capital of the Zapotecs and later conquered by the Mixtecs, not long before the Spanish arrived. It is mostly unexcavated, but has two small tombs that can be accessed.
Tomb 1 – The Owl (Tecolote, Búho) of Zaachila.
We were about to head to lunch, when we were waylaid by Benito’s inquiry if we knew about and would like to see the Día de Muertos (Day of the Dead) murals decorating the walls of Calle Coquiza — a street that connects the church with the municipal cemetery. Of course we responded that we would love to see them! If you are in Zaachila, they are worth checking out. You can see more of the murals on my blog post, Muertos murals in Zaachila.
Muertos mural along Calle Coquiza, Villa de Zaachila.
We were starving by the time we had walked the length and back of Calle Coquiza, so we made a beeline for the van that would take us to Restaurante La Capilla de Zaachila. It felt so good to sit, relax, and eat!
Tortilla Zachileña de guisado al horno.
It was a fairly quiet return to the city — we were satiated by food, sights, and information. However, following a few hours of rest, B and I met up again to stroll down to the zócalo, sip mezcal on rooftop terrace of Casa Crespo — though the music was a bit loud, the mezcal was good and the view of Santo Domingo couldn’t be beat.
By the way, this day’s travels took us to many of the major sites where the legend of Donaji takes place.
There be tamales!
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Food, Travel & Tourism, tagged Feria del Tejate y el Tamal, food festival, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, San Andrés Huayapam, San Andrés Huayapan, tamales, tea towels on July 27, 2017| 7 Comments »
As the name implies, the Feria del Tejate y el Tamal also featured tamales, along with yesterday’s blog post subject, Tejate, “Drink of the Gods”.
Tamal vendors from San Andrés Huayapam stood behind long tables lined with tin buckets, giant pots, and baskets covered with colorfully embroidered towels hiding every kind of tamal imaginable. There were mole negro (black mole) tamales wrapped in banana leaves…
And… flor de calabaza (squash blossom), amarillo (yellow mole), verde (green mole), chapulín (grasshopper), frijol (bean), and chepil (a wild herb) wrapped and steamed in corn husks. The local newspaper reports there were also fish and shrimp tamales. Darn, I didn’t even see them! Though not a surprise because it was quite a scene as crowds amassed in front of the vendors placing their orders. It reminded me of the lyrics from the Neil Diamond song, Sweet Caroline: Hands, touching hands, reaching out…
I don’t really have a favorite — they are all so uniquely special. However, because chichilo mole originated in San Andrés Huayapam and is only served on special occasions (weddings, christenings, harvesting of crops), I always make sure to bring home a couple. Chichilo mole is made from chilhuacle negro, mulatto, and pasilla chiles; blackened tortillas and seeds of the chiles; and avocado leaves, the latter imparting a subtle anise flavor. They are so yummy!
The prehispanic riches of tejate and tamales — a couple of reasons why Oaxaca is a food lovers paradise.
Tejate, “Drink of the Gods”
Posted in Beverages, Celebrations, Culture, Food, Travel & Tourism, tagged Beverages, Feria del Tejate y el Tamal, food festival, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, San Andrés Huayapam, San Andrés Huayapan, tejate on July 26, 2017| 2 Comments »
This morning, the Feria del Tejate y el Tamal opened at the Plaza de la Danza — with live music, speeches, scores of tejate and tamal vendors, and hundreds of happy, hungry people. In the event you are unfamiliar with tejate (which is probably the case if you have never been to Oaxaca), it is a very popular frothy, refreshing, nutritious, and (supposedly) aphrodisiacal non-alcoholic prehispanic beverage. It is made from corn mixed with tree ash, cacao beans, mamey seeds, rosita de cacao (Quararibea funebris) flowers, and peanuts or pecans (depending on the season).
The preparation takes at least twelve hours, as the beans, seeds, flowers, and nuts must be toasted on a comal and corn must be nixtamalized. Ingredients are taken to a molino to be milled, then kneaded together, left to cool, eventually being hand-ground on a metate to make a thick paste — which is what one sees in the mercados being thinned with water and (literally) mixed by hand. For a blow-by-blow photo essay of the process, check out Making Tejate for the Market.
In days gone by, this exquisite beverage was reserved solely for Zapotec royalty. However, today tejate is for the masses, with tejateras and their massive clay ollas set up at almost every mercado and festival you run across. One frequently sees tejate poured into colorfully painted gourds and, of course, it tastes even better when served that way!
The sale of tejate is the main economic activitity in San Andrés Huayapam, located about 7 miles northeast of Oaxaca city. It is prepared and served by the tejateras of the Unión de Mujeres Productoras del Tejate. At the Feria, many of the tejateras were young — it is good to see the ancestral recipes and skills being passed down to the next generation.
The Feria del Tejate y el Tamal runs through tomorrow (July 26, 2017). If you are in town, don’t miss it! Oh yes, there were tamales, so stay tuned…
Week in Oaxaca – Day 2
Posted in Archaeology, Churches, Flora, Food, People, Textiles, Travel & Tourism, tagged ahuehuete, Árbol de Tule, Benito Hernández, Discover Oaxaca, Juana Gutiérrez Contreras, Mexico, Mitla, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Porfirio Gutiérrez Contreras, Preciosa Sangre de Cristo, Restaurante Tlamanalli, rugs, tapetes, Teotitlán del Valle, textiles, tour guides, Tule tree, Week in Oaxaca, Yagul on July 10, 2017| 2 Comments »
On day 2 of introducing B to the sights, sounds, and flavors of Oaxaca, I turned to the professionals at Discover Oaxaca for assistance. I had met the owners Suzanne Barbezat (author of Frida At Home) and her Oaxaqueño husband, Benito Hernández, several years ago through friends and knew they were licensed guides. And, as coincidence would have it, they were good friends of B’s god-daughter and her Oaxaquaño husband in California. The choice was easy and the rave reviews on TripAdvisor were icing on the cake.
Thus, Wednesday began with Benito picking us up in a comfortable, spacious, and air-conditioned van. Our day’s first destination was Mitla, the second most important archeological site in Oaxaca and home to amazingly intricate grecas (fretwork). However, as we headed east on Mexican highway 190, Benito was a fountain of knowledge — much of which was new to me. This was going to be good!
Grecas (fretwork)on the outside of the Palace at the archaeological site at Mitla.
For almost an hour and a half, Benito led us through the site — always explaining, answering our questions, and letting us marvel at what was before us. We could have stayed for at least another hour, but we headed back west on 190, to Yagul, an archeological site I had previously never visited. Several friends told me they experienced a deeply spiritual sense and that it was a must see. We barely skimmed the surface (definitely a place to return to), but the sun was hot, archeological overload was setting in, and hunger beckoned.
Ballcourt at Yagul — the biggest in the valley of Oaxaca.
Next stop, Restaurante Tlamanalli in Teotitlán del Valle — the renown restaurant of Zapotec cooks, Abigail Mendoza and her sisters. Using time honored methods and recipes refined over generations, the Mendoza sisters have elevated and brought worldwide recognition and respect for their traditional cuisine. It was a delicious and tranquil interlude.
Metates used at Restaurante Tlamanalli to grind ingredients for mole and more.
Tearing ourselves away, Benito, B, and I climbed back into the van and drove to the center of the village to see Templo de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo, another of the countless churches throughout Mexico built on top of a sacred indigenous site.
Templo de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo, sits atop Zapotec ruins at the base of Picacho, the sacred mountain in Teotitlán del Valle.
My intent, during our visit to this village, known for its weaving with wool, had been to visit several of the weavers I know — including Fidel Cruz Lazo, Antonio Ruiz Gonzalez, his brother Sergio Ruiz Gonzalez, and the family of Samuel Bautista Lazo. However, we were running short of time, and B had been following my adventures with the family of Juana and Porfirio Gutierrez Contreras and had poured over the family’s website, so stopping at their home and workshop was a priority for him. Porfirio was back in the USA, but Juana and her husband Antoño gave their always excellent explanation and demonstration of their work with natural dyes. And, yes, B couldn’t resist purchasing a wonderful rug (though not the one pictured below)!
Woven wool tapete (rug) by Porfirio Gutiérrez Contreras.
On the way back to Oaxaca city, our last stop for the day was at Santa María del Tule to see the world famous Árbol del Tule. This Montezuma cypress (Taxodium mucronatum; Ahuehuete in Nahuatl) has the largest trunk of any tree in the world, is thought to be between 1,200 and 3,000 years old, and is home to hundreds, if not thousands, of birds. It is quite a sight to hear, let alone see.
Looking up at the Árbol de Tule in Santa María del Tule, Oaxaca.
We left Oaxaca city at 9:15 AM and didn’t return until almost 6:00 PM. It was a full, informative, and terrific day. Next up, day 3 — another delightful day out of the city with Benito.
Week in Oaxaca – Day 1
Posted in Churches, Food, Gardens, Museums, Restaurants, Travel & Tourism, tagged Casilda Aguas Regionales, churches, Ethnobotanic Garden, Jardín Etnobotánico, Los Danzantes restaurant, Mercado Benito Juárez, Mexico, Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca, Museum of Oaxacan Cultures, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Santo Domingo de Guzmán, Week in Oaxaca on July 3, 2017| 3 Comments »
Recently, as previously mentioned, a friend came to visit for a week. It was B’s first time in Oaxaca and we packed a lot of sightseeing and delicious dining into just six days. B is an architect and, among other things, is an archeology buff, so those interests helped shape our itinerary (as in, not a shopping expedition). Naturally, the six days sailed by, but the sailing was so smooth and flowed so well that it occurred to me a blog post chronicling our adventures might be helpful to future visitors and hosts.
B arrived on a Monday night, so Day 1 began the next morning, when we rendezvoused on my terrace so he could begin to get his bearings as I pointed out landmarks. Our first stop was to gaze at the gold and gilt interior and up at the impressive family tree that decorates much of the ceiling of Santo Domingo de Guzmán.
Santo Domingo de Guzmán and its former monastery.
After being thoroughly wowed, we went next door to the former monastery, now the Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca. Arranged in historical epochs, the 20+ rooms are an historical treasure trove that include treasures excavated from Tomb 7 at Monte Albán. Also on the extensive grounds is the glorious Jardín Etnobotánico, an impressive ethnobotanic garden of plants native to the state of Oaxaca. While we had no time to take a tour of the garden (the only way to visit), the views from the museum are spectacular.
Looking down on the Jardín Etnobotánico from the Museo de las Cultures de Oaxaca
Leaving the museum, we strolled down Oaxaca’s walking street, Macedonio Alcalá (aka, Andador Turistico), across the zocaló, past the Palacio de Gobierno, to the Mercado Benito Juárez. Besides the fact that I was almost out of coffee beans and needed to stop by El Grano de Oro to replenish my supply, in my humble opinion, the mercado is a “must see” for any visitor. Feeling a bit parched and ready for a break, we pulled up stools at Casilda Aguas Regionales and had to choose from their dazzling selection of fresh aguas. Refreshed, we resumed exploring the aisles of fruits and vegetables, fish and meats, clothing and jewelry, fresh flowers and souvenirs, mezcal and quesillo, and more.
Aguas lined up on the counter of Casilda Aguas Regionales
Hungry, tired, and on sensory overload, we walked back up the Alcalá to the tranquility, innovative architectural design, and savory flavors of Los Danzantes — the complementary mezcalito was an added bonus! Our late afternoon comida was a leisurely affair, as we reviewed the day and made plans for the next. B worried that we might be lingering too long, but I assured him, unlike the USA, restaurants in Mexico don’t rush diners.
Retractable ceiling and modern take on adobe walls at Oaxaca’s Los Danzantes restaurant
It was a lovely and delicious way to end the day. Stay tuned for Day 2, as we headed out of the city….
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