And, to add a little color to this blog post, here are a few of my old photos that didn’t make the WSJ cut.
Carnaval in San Martín Tilcajete – February 2018
Grecas at San Pablo Villa de Mitla archeological site – November 2023
Noche de Rabanos in Oaxaca de Juárez – December 2017
The article may come up behind a paywall. Unfortunately, according to the contract I signed, I can’t republish the article here. However, if you have a public library card, you can probably access it through their digital resources link. It is also scheduled to be published in the print edition of the Wall Street Journal on April 15, 2024. I hope you like it!
(ps) If you’re having trouble accessing the online article, people have reported that when the WSJ subscription box pops up, click the X in the subscription box and then scroll down to the article, though, if you use Safari, you might have to change browsers.
Except for the patter of rain and the sound of the occasional car on wet pavement, all is gray and quiet on this Good Friday in my San Francisco Bay Area home. I miss the colorful and creative sights and sounds of Viernes Santo in Oaxaca. Thus, today finds me looking back to the Santo Viacrucis (Holy Way of the Cross) procession last year in Barrio de Jalatlaco on Viernes Santo.
8th Station of the Cross where Jesús meets the women of Jerusalem.
1st Station of the Cross where Jesús is condemned to death.
7th Station of the Cross where Jesús falls for the second time.
Jesús carrying the cross through the streets of the Jalatlaco neighborhood.
John the Baptist follows Jesús.
Mary Magdalene following Jesús.
María heading toward her final encuentro (meeting) with her son.
Jesús enroute to his final encuentro (meeting) with his mother.
María and Jesús in their final encuentro (meeting).
While I don’t subscribe to any religion, the people of Oaxaca, their devotion, and their creativity in celebrating their faith always moves me.
March 19 is Day of the Artisans in Mexico. And so I say, ¡Feliz Día de las Artesanas y los Artesanos! — especially to the budding artists who are appreciating and learning to carry on folk art traditions.
Young artisans at work carving radishes on the morning of the 2023 Noche de Rabanos.
Greetings from cold, gray, windy, and rainy Northern California. I arrived a couple of weeks ago and am still in recovery from a three-day wedding in Teotitlán del Valle right before I departed for winter in the San Francisco Bay Area. Family, friends, frozen fingers, and a severe case of sticker shock have also contributed to no new blog posts for sixteen days. And, please consider this advance warning: I’m going to be in el norte for several months. However, I have many ideas and photos for future Oaxaca focused blog posts — they just may be few and far between. I begin with remembering last February’s return visit to Vives Verde, the labor of love garden created by architect Francisco Martínez.
Over fourteen years ago, architect Francisco Martínez began a project of landscaping a former garbage dump into a healing, artistic, and environmental garden — a marriage of plants, recycling, whimsical art, and education.
A water catchment system utilizing paths, beds, and ponds irrigate this garden of more than 200 species and 2000 plants — mostly from Oaxaca.
Francisco and his garden are dedicated to raising awareness of preservation and conservation of the sustainable environment. In his effort to fulfill the garden’s mission, he hosts free guided tours — ranging from the architecture faculty of the Universidad Regional del Sureste to students from the Sor Juana Inés de la Cruz primary school.
Speakers blared through the streets of Barrio de Jalatlaco yesterday morning announcing a celebration of Día de Reyes Magos in the church atrium at 5 PM. There were photo-ops galore as neighbors gathered; Melchor, Gaspar, and Baltazar posed; boxes of Roscas de Reyes (Three Kings cake) were delivered; politicians spoke; cake was eaten; and toys were distributed.
Tradition dictates the person(s) finding a baby Jesus figurine hidden in their slice of cake must host a tamalada (tamales party) on February 2nd, Día de la Candelaria (Candlemas). As always seems to happen, I was a “lucky” recipient of the plastic Jesus. Alas, I will be in California. Hmmm… maybe a shopping trip to Cardenas Markets is on the agenda.
Jean-Baptiste Racine’s quote, “Life is a comedy to those who think, a tragedy to those who feel” comes to mind when I reflect on 2023. Looking at the state of the world, I think many of us have spent the year vacillating between laughing and crying. However, on this New Year’s Eve, I prefer to remember the celebrations and places I experienced with family and friends, old and new. These are the times that nourish my soul and empower me to welcome 2024.
January 2023 – Mill Valley, CA. “Fork in the road.” I took the high road.
February 2023 – Oaxaca de Juárez. Archivo Histórico del Estado de Oaxaca.
March 2023 – San Agustín Etla, Oaxaca. “Seamus Heaney & Jan Hendrix en Yagul” exhibition at Centro de las Artes de San Agustín (CASA).
April 2023 – Oaxaca de Juárez. View from El Mirador Restaurante.
May 2023 – Oaxaca de Juárez. Cross on construction site in honor of Día de la Santa Cruz.
June 2023 – San Antonino Castillo Velasco, Oaxaca. Don José Garcia Antonío (aka, the blind potter).
July 2023 – Teotitlán del Valle, Oaxaca. Convite welcoming people to the festival honoring La Preciosa Sangre de Nuestro Señor Jesucristo.
August 2023 – La Mesa, CA. Sunset over the Pacific Ocean.
September 2023 – Oaxaca de Juárez. Escaramuzas riding in the Mexican Independence Day parade.
October 2023 – Oaxaca de Juárez. “Nelson” one of the Oaxaca Guerreros baseball team’s mascots.
November 2023 – Villa de Mitla, Oaxaca. Interior wall and ceiling in the “Church Group” at the Mitla archeological site.
December 2023 – Unión Zapata, Oaxaca. Feria de la Agrobiodiversidad en Oaxaca.
Many thanks to all the wonderful readers of my blog; I am constantly amazed and gratified you choose to stop by. On this New Year’s Eve, with a renewed appreciation for the small things that bring joy and give life meaning, I wish you all, ¡Feliz Año Nuevo!
If it’s December 23, it must be the “only in Oaxaca” Noche de Rábanos. I love going in the morning to watch these skilled artists and their imaginations at work creating exquisite sculptures out of radishes — of all things!
And, there weren’t just radishes. Creations of totomoxle (dried corn husks) and flor inmortal (dried flowers) were also on display. Stay tuned…
All over Mexico on December 12th the country pauses to honor and celebrate the Virgin de Guadalupe, also known as the Queen of Mexico, Empress of America, and patron saint of Mexico. And, there is no place I would rather be on this day than in Teotitlán del Valle watching the Danza de la Pluma. The dance is a ritual reenactment of the battles between the Aztec and the Spanish conquistadors. In this Zapotec village, the dancers make a 3-year religious commitment to perform it at the four major religious festivals each year, including Guadalupe.
Members of the Danza de la Pluma Promesa 2022-2024 entering the atrium of Templo de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo.
Malinche, Moctezuma, Doña Marina, and danzantes.
Dancing under the watchful gaze of the sacred mountain, Cerro Picacho, Quie Guia Betz in Zapotec.
Danzantes “leaning in” during one of the 40+ dances of the Danza de la Pluma.
Moctezuma preparing to leap during one of the dances.
Members of the Danza de la Pluma Promesa 2022-2024 and their band.
A profound muchisimas gracias to the people of Teotitlán del Valle for always being so warm and welcoming.
Mexican Peso Converter
View From Casita Colibrí 