Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Music, Neighborhoods, Travel & Tourism, tagged bands, Barrio de Jalatlaco, Day of the Musicians, Día de Santa Cecilia, marching bands, Mexico, music, musicians, Oaxaca, parades, photos, popular travel destinations, processions, Saint Cecilia, Teotitlán del Valle, video on November 22, 2022| Leave a Comment »
Why I love Oaxaca, reason number 2,022 — music is heard everywhere and seemingly all the time. November 22 is Día de Santa Cecilia who, among other things, is the patron saint of musicians.
And, since this post honors musicians, how about a little music…
A big muchisimas gracias to musicians all over the world who provide the soundtrack of our lives.
Posted in Culture, Music, Neighborhoods, tagged Barrio de Jalatlaco, Mexico, music, musicians, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, Tuna de la URSE, video on September 13, 2022| 4 Comments »
Barrio de Jalatlaco played host to an invasion of tunas a few weeks ago. No, not the smelly fish or succulent cactus fruit. These were of the 13th century strolling university musician variety. The tradition of Tuna bands originated in Spain and Portugal, spread to Latin American, and remains alive and well in Oaxaca. Thus, the Tunas from the Universidad Regional del Sureste (URSE), one of four groups participating in the Barrio’s first Callejoneada, gathered on my block.
They serenaded the neighborhood.
We followed these pied pipers.
How could we not, with exuberant ballads like this?
Tuna de la URSE came, we saw, and two days ago they conquered La Tuna de Montes de Madrid (Spain) and La Tuna de Derecho de San Martín de Porres (Peru) — winning the Gran Final Internacional de Tunas Universitarias competition. ¡Felicidades!
Posted in Casita Colibrí, People, Weather, tagged clouds, dry season rain, Mexico, Moon, music, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, rain, rainbows, rooftop garden, Sometimes in Winter (song), Steve Katz (singer/songwriter) on March 17, 2022| 4 Comments »
Late yesterday afternoon… What was that smell? What was that sound? I climbed the spiral staircase up to the rooftop terrace and what did I see?
The little dark dots on the terrace floor confirmed my suspicion. The smell was rain, the sound was rain, those spots on the terrace floor were rain drops, and there was even a hint of a rainbow!
I stood watching and listening and savoring this infrequent, but much welcome, dry season development, when the clouds moved to reveal the rising moon.
The old Blood, Sweat & Tears tune began playing in my head, Sometimes in Winter. Thank you Steve Katz for your beautiful and evocative song.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Barrio de Jalatlaco, China Oaxaqueña dancer, coronavirus fallout, COVID-19 fallout, Flor de piña dancer, Guelaguetza dancers, light and shadows, Mexico, murals, music, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, street art, urban art, Uriel Barragán Bouler, wall art on June 13, 2020| 6 Comments »
There will be no dancing in the streets or up on Cerro del Fortín this year. Due to Covid-19, La Guelaguetza, Oaxaca’s “máxima fiesta” has been canceled. However, thanks to the artist Bouler (Uriel Barragán), a few of the dancers can be seen dancing on the walls of Barrio de Jalatlaco.
If his work looks familiar, it is because this image from two weeks ago is part of the above series. In addition, he also painted the mural honoring Macedonio Alcalá in Jardín Carbajal.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Music, People, Protests, Travel & Tourism, tagged "I Can't Breathe" song, Alex Call, Efdot, In memory of George Floyd, Mexico, murals, music, Oaxaca, photos, street art, urban art, wall art on May 29, 2020| 4 Comments »
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged Álvaro Carrillo, concert, Eugenia León, Lila Downs, Luis Adrián, Mexico, music, music video, Oaxaca, photos, singers, song "Sabor a Mi", Trío Los Panchos, Trio Santo Domingo on February 1, 2020| 6 Comments »
I fell in love with Oaxaca the first time I saw her when visiting a friend in 2007. The city was teeming with energy and color and I felt embraced by its welcoming warmth. The day after my arrival, the sounds of Trío Santo Domingo drew us down to the zócalo on a balmy August evening. I was captivated by the melodies, guitars, and harmonies of the boleros they played. I bought their CD and discovered many of my favorites were written by beloved Mexican composer and Oaxaqueño, Álvaro Carrillo Alarcón — Sabor a Mí, El Andariego, Luz de Luna, Un Poco Más, Amor Mío, and so many more. His music captured my heart and continues to nourish my soul.
Bust of Álvaro Carrillo Alarcón in Oaxaca’s Jardín Carbajal includes lyrics from “Sabor a Mí”
Thus, two months ago, I jumped at the opportunity to attend a concert honoring the musical legacy and celebrating the 100th birthday of Álvaro Carrillo Alarcón. The performers paying tribute to him were among Mexico’s most loved and were accompanied by a full orchestra and the guitars and harmonies of Trío Los Panchos. They did not disappoint!
In addition to the above singers, Jean Venegas and Álvaro Carrillo’s sons, Mario Carrillo and Álvaro Carrillo Jr., also performed. Young and old, the audience sang along the entire night and more than a few tears were shed — for lost loves, fond memories, and pride in their native son. Álvaro Carrillo died tragically in a car accident at the age of 47 but new generations continue to rediscover and cover his songs and, thanks to the internet, we can hear from the man, himself.
Oaxaca, you had me at Sabor a Mí.
Posted in Culture, Food, food festival, Restaurants, tagged Encuentro de Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca 2019, food quotes, Mexico, music, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, restaurants, traditional cuisine on September 3, 2019| 7 Comments »
Food with friend in Oaxaca during the last two weeks…
First we eat, then we do everything else. –M.F.K. Fisher
Tostadas de mariscos – Marco Polo, August 15, 2019
People who love to eat are always the best people. –Julia Child
Chiles Rellenos – Tierra del Sol, August 17, 2019
Food is our common ground, a universal experience. –James Beard
Mole Negro – Teotitlán del Valle, August 18 2019
Laughter is brightest in the place where the food is. –Irish Proverb
Ensalada de Papa y Pulpo — Ristorante Italiano Epicuro, August 30, 2019
The secret of success in life is to eat what you like and let the food fight it out inside. –Mark Twain
And, while we are on the topic of dining well in Oaxaca, we are all looking forward to the long delayed, but eagerly anticipated, Tercer Encuentro de Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca (3rd Gathering of Traditional Oaxacan Cooks) to take place September 19-22, 2019 at the Centro Cultural y De Convenciones Oaxaca (note venue change). According to reports, there will be 60 traditional women cooks, 15 people making traditional beverages, 6 pastry chefs, and 6 makers of iced desserts.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged art, artists, Bob Dylan, Erika Santiago, Joan Baez, Mexico, murals, music, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Sad-Eyed Lady Of the Lowlands, San Eyed, street art, urban art, wall art on June 4, 2018| 2 Comments »
Passing Erika Santiago‘s haunting mural along the wall outside Almacén Mexicano on Calle Valentín Gómez Farías, Sad-Eyed Lady Of the Lowlands began playing in my head.
Sometimes art brings a song. And, maybe we are all a little sad these days.
Posted in Celebrations, History, Holidays, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged David Rovic music video, history, Irish in Mexico, Mexican American War, Mexico, music, St. Brendan the Navigator, St. Patrick's Battalion, St. Patrick's Day on March 17, 2018| 2 Comments »
On this St. Patrick’s Day, you might want to check out this brief history lesson from PRI (Public Radio International), Mexico remembers the Irishmen who fought for Mexico against the US.
And, for more Irish in Mexico history, I’m re-posting my March 17, 2016 blog post, St. Brendan in Mexico?, below:
The Mexican-Irish connection may date back farther than most of us have considered. Séamus Ó Fógartaigh writes in the essay, Ireland and Mexico, “The first Irishman to set foot on Mexican soil may well have been St. Brendan the Navigator, who, according to legend, crossed the Atlantic Ocean in his ‘currach’ (traditional Irish rowing boat) in search of new converts to the Christian faith. An ancient manuscript found in Medieval European monasteries allegedly described his voyage to strange Western Lands, and is known as the Navigatio Sancti Brendani Abbatis. Some historians claim that Christopher Columbus found inspiration for his seafaring adventure in the pages of the Navigatio of St. Brendan the Abbot.” And, he notes, there is even speculation that Quetzalcóatl was actually a deified Irish monk.
As you raise your pint of Guinness on this St. Patrick’s Day, consider this and the other Mexico and Ireland connections, while you sing a rousing chorus of Saint Patrick Battalion.
The song celebrates the Batallón de San Patricio, the Irish-American soldiers who deserted and fought alongside the Mexican army against the United States during the Mexican American War, 1846-1848. And, don’t forget to watch One Man’s Hero, the 1999 feature film about the San Patricios, starring Tom Berenger.
Sláinte mhaith! ¡Salud! And, remember, don’t drink and drive!
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged dried corn husks, dried flower art, flor inmortal, Mexico, music, Navidad, Night of the Radishes, Noche de Rabanos, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, radishes, Totomoxtle on December 28, 2017| 7 Comments »
I always prefer to go down to Oaxaca’s zócalo in the morning of December 23rd to watch the Noche de Rábanos artisans bring their creations into being — and before the masses descend. At this year’s 120th annual Rábanos the crowds had already begun to gather behind the barriers by 10:30 AM. Of course, the downside to going early is that some of the artisans are further along in their work than others.
Alas, in the category of Rábanos Tradicional (radishes representing traditional subject matter), the eventual first prize winner had only just begun…
“Nacimiento Tradicional” by Hermenegildo Contreras Cruz
However, when I passed by, the eventual first prize winner in the category of Rábanos Libre (radishes free subject matter) was almost finished and the dragon was about to be slayed.
“Corazón de Dragón” by Salvador Yrizar Díaz
In the Flor Inmortal (dried flower) category… How could I have missed 2/3rds of the entries?!! However, I did manage to capture the 2nd prize winner.
“Una tarde en el Templo de Santo Domingo” by Rosalía Santiago Cornelio
Then there was the Totomoxtle (corn husks)… Second place in the Totomoxtle Natural (natural husk color) category went to this delightful depiction of Oaxaca’s version of a county fair that even included a House of Horror and a Tilt-A-Whirl.
“Feria Popular” by Jorge Ramos Gallegos
First place in the category of Totomoxtle Natural was awarded to…
“Buscando la paz hastati. Virgencita de Juquila” by José Méndez Miranda
And, what can I say about “Nahualli” by Marco Antonio Ruíz Sosa, the winner of the Totomoxtle Decorado (dyed corn husks)?
Do you think Lewis Carroll was channeling shadow souls when he wrote Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland? Kenneth Grahame when he wrote The Wind in the Willows? Was C. S. Lewis guided by a nahualli when he wrote The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe? And, what about Beatrix Potter???
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged Banda Oro Blanca, bands, Guelaguetza, Mexico, music, musicians, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Reyes Etla on July 18, 2017| 2 Comments »
The dancers get most of the press, but the musicians are some of the unsung heroes of all the Guelaguetza performances. And, I have to say, yesterday the Banda Oro Blanco at the Guelaguetza at “Las Peñitas” in Reyes Etla played a leading role. And the view wasn’t bad either!
What can I say about this clarinet player? At one point he played off a fake book on a smart phone and he was on fire!!!
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged dance, Guelaguetza, List of delegations, Mexico, music, Oaxaca, popular travel destinations on July 6, 2017| 3 Comments »
The Guelaguetza 2017 delegations were announced late this morning. While there will be four presentations of the Danza de la Pluma, this year Teotitlán del Valle will not be one of them and I’m disappointed — this group of danzantes de promesa are SO good, they were such a hit last year, and I don’t know how much more “traditional” you can get. In addition, social media tweets and comments in Oaxaca are flying fast and furious regarding the absence of Santiago Pinotepa Nacional and Juchitán de Zaragoza. However, the good news is that there are some new groups this year, including Santiago Niltepec, Santo Domingo Chihuitán, Santa Catarina Ticua, and Santa María Huatulco — and their supporters are thrilled.
Reserved seat tickets have been sold out for weeks. However, if you don’t mind standing in line for hours, tickets for the “free” sections in the upper level of the Guelaguetza Auditorium are available before each of the four performances. In addition, it will, no doubt, be shown on local TV and live-streamed on the internet. I will post the link, when it becomes available.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged band, chanting, comida, food, Holy Monday, Holy Week, Lunes Santo, Mexico, music, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, rugs, Semana Santa, tapetes, Teotitlán del Valle, video on April 16, 2017| 9 Comments »
As the last couple of posts hinted, this year, instead of the city, I spent much of Semana Santa (Holy Week) in one of my favorite places — Teotitlán del Valle.
This was only the beginning. It was a colorful, moving, and delicious experience!
Posted in Culture, Flora, Gardens, Travel & Tourism, tagged bougainvillea, Casa Colonial, flowers, Mexico, mural, music, musicians, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on March 1, 2017| 3 Comments »
Sunday afternoon at Casa Colonial in Oaxaca: Sun filtering through the trees of a lush tropical garden, the smell of hamburgers and hotdogs grilling on a barbecue, a friendly bartender, and a great jazz combo. What more could anyone want?
Thank you to the Casa’s owner Jane Robison and manager Amado Bolaños. It was a lovely way to spend a Sunday.
Posted in Immigration, People, Protests, tagged deportations, Guadalupe García de Rayos, Ice El Hielo, Immigration and Customs Enforcement (ICE), Mexico, music, United States, video on February 9, 2017| 11 Comments »
The headline in the New York Times reads, She Showed Up Yearly to Meet Immigration Agents. Now They’ve Deported Her.
For eight years, Guadalupe García de Rayos had checked in at the federal Immigration and Customs Enforcement office here, a requirement since she was caught using a fake Social Security number during a raid in 2008 at a water park where she worked.
Every year since then, she has walked in and out of the meetings after a brief review of her case and some questions.
But not this year.
Despite a night of protests and a legal appeal, this 35-year old mother of two, who has lived, worked, and played by the arbitrary U.S. Immigration and Customs Enforcement (ICE) rules — and who hasn’t lived in Mexico since she was 14 — was separated from her husband and children and dropped off in Nogales, Mexico early this morning.
I’m so sad and angry at the mean-spirited and grand-standing senselessness of it all. Right now, all I can do is cry and post this heartbreaking music video, Ice El Hielo by La Santa Cecilia.
Y’all feeling safer up there in el norte?
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