The violent storms Oaxaca experienced in mid April brought down 30+ trees in the city, including one of her beloved old Indian laurels in Llano Park. And, when a tree falls in Oaxaca…
Left to right: Cuetzpalin/iguana; Coatl/serpiente/snake; Ocelotl/jaguar; Ozomatli/mono/monkey
Talented artist, Heriberto Castro López, grabbed his chainsaw and chisel and, with the blessings of the powers that be, turned the fallen tree into a public work of art, a language lesson, and a plea for help.
Cuauhtli/águila/eagle
A monkey, a jaguar, an eagle, a rabbit, an iguana, and there’s a snake in there somewhere — all animals iconic to Oaxaca — emerged.
Tochtli/conejo/rabbit
The animals seem appropriate, as Parque el Llano (aka, Paseo Juárez, El Llano de Guadalupe, and Alameda de Nezahualcoyotl) housed a zoo from 1945 to 1971 (dates not verified) — hence the gold painted lions at the four main entrances to the park.
Cuetzpalin/iguana
However, this time the animals aren’t confined to cages — they are free and calling on us to save this planet we all call home before it’s too late.
Many thanks to Heriberto Castro López for his “Llamado de Auxilio” gift to Oaxaca.
May 10 is Día de la Madre in Mexico and to honor the mothers, grandmothers, mother figures, and the daughters, whose future is in their hands, some recent murals seen in the city and countryside.
The celebration of Mother’s Day migrated south from the USA in the early 20th century and was embraced and promoted by the Catholic Church AND the anticlerical Revolutionaries. Their reasons being:
around the 1850s the Liberals… were nervous about women’s growing participation in the public sphere. Establishing motherhood as venerable and the home as sanctified… would give women a sphere of their own where they could be boss. Also, it would keep them off the streets and out of the workplace where they had begun to compete with men for jobs. Under their watch, everyday motherhood became an exalted madre-hood…. The twentieth-century Revolutionaries who succeeded them took the idea and ran with it, adding in 1922 a ritual, Mother’s Day. [Madre: Perilous Journeys with a Spanish Noun by Liza Bakewell, p. 84]
As for keeping them out of the workforce, according to a report citing the 2010 census, 33.3% of women work and this doesn’t even include those working in family operated enterprises. However distasteful the reasons behind the establishment of Mother’s Day in Mexico, it does nothing to diminish the need to honor these beautiful, hardworking, formidable, and loving women.
And to the girls and young women, may you be empowered by the strength and love of the maternal figures in your life to reach for the stars, live without fear, and be whatever you choose to be.
The United Nations declared November 20 as World Children’s Day. However, that is Día de la Revolución in Mexico, thus in 1924, President Álvaro Obregó and Minister of Public Education José Vasconcelos designated April 30 as Día del Niño — the day Mexico celebrates and honors her children. Schools organize parties with games and treats, communities organize special activities, and parents may give their hijas and hijos gifts. However, one of the features of life in Oaxaca that I most appreciate is the way children are included all year round in celebrations.
July 4, 2022 – Convite for the festival honoring Preciosa Sangre de Nuestro Señor Jesucristo, Teotitlán del Valle.
July 4, 2022 – Wearing traditional dress, with her canasta, watching and learning at the Preciosa Sangre de Nuestro Señor Jesucristo convite, Teotitlán del Valle.
July 4, 2023 – Practicing with a marmota at the convite honoring Preciosa Sangre de Nuestro Señor Jesucristo, Teotitlán del Valle.
July 5, 2022 – Playing the roles of La Malinche and Doña Marina in the Danza de la Pluma, Teotitlán del Valle.
September 16, 2022 – Young escaramuza participating in the Independence Day parade in Oaxaca City.
February 4, 2023 – Young boy twirling a marmota during wedding festivities in front of Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán, Oaxaca.
February 18, 2023 – Young cachudos from Santa María Coyotepec participating in the Carnaval parade, Oaxaca.
February 18, 2023 – Young participant in the Carnaval parade, Oaxaca.
February 21, 2023 – Carnaval in San Martín Tilcajete.
April 2, 2023 – Carrying an offering in the Good Friday procession, San Antonino Castillo Velasco.
“… the objective of this [Día del Niño] celebration is to dedicate a moment to understanding the child population, promoting their social inclusion and carrying out activities to promote their well-being and the rights to which they have access as human beings.” (Google translation from this article)
As Semana Santa approached, Oaxaca’s annual invasion of the Chia Pets began. On altars in churches, homes, and businesses, terracotta animals sprouting Chia appeared.
Good Friday 2023 – 5th Station of the Cross in Barrio de Jalatlaco.
Before you lament commercialized products from the USA intruding on the sanctity of Holy Week, I can happily report Salvia Hispanica (aka, chia) filled clay animals were symbols of the season long before Joe Pedott ever set foot in Oaxaca in the late 1970s and “discovered” them.
According to an article in MexConnect, “Growing greens remind the viewer of the resurrection and renewal of life.”
Native to Mexico, Salvia hispanica was the third most important food (after corn and beans) of the Aztecs as chia seeds are high in protein and omega-3 fatty acids. By the way, the name of the Mexican state of Chiapas comes from Chiapan, an ancient city whose name in Náhuatl means, “the place where the chia sage grows.”
Purple papel picado (actually, plastic) began appearing above streets a month ago. And, in the past few days, the atrium of Templo San Matías Jalatlaco has been decorated with olive trees, sheaves of wheat, and crosses embellished with flowers woven from the base of Sotol leaves.
Yesterday, Calle de Miguel Hidalgo in front of the church was closed to traffic and the Alfombristas Mexicanos colective from Huamantla, Tlaxcala began creating a beautiful tapete (rug) made of colored stones along the length the block.
Purple decorations can also be seen festooning the fronts of homes and businesses in the neighborhood.
You might ask, why all the purple? According to the Ecclesiastical Sewing website, purple symbolizes “the royalty of Christ, His passion and death for our sins, and the coming of spring.” For more of an explanation, click on the link to their website.
Despite the construction on the Alameda across from the Cathedral, the palm weavers from the Mixteca region of Oaxaca are back to sell intricately woven palm fronds to be blessed and carried on Palm Sunday.
And, like most artisan traditions, it’s a family affair.
Many years ago, I attended a benefit sale at Galería La Mano Mágica to raise money to enable famed ceramicist Josefina Aguilar to have cataract surgery. My eyes were immediately drawn to a sculpture by her granddaughter, Fran Garcia Vásquez. I bought it and the Tehuana sculpture remains one of my most treasured pieces — though she has had her ups and downs.
The 8.2 earthquake in September 2017 resulted in a broken arm. It was a clean break and I was able to make the repair.
Alas, in June 2020 (due to my carelessness), she suffered more serious injuries — the extent of which were well beyond my abilities to mend. She and all her pieces were carefully cushioned in a box and there she lay through the worst of the pandemic and my move to Barrio de Jalatlaco.
It was only a month or so ago that it dawned on me to contact her creator, Fran Garcia Vásquez to ask if she could repair my sculpture — after all, she had the clay, paint, and expertise! She readily agreed and on March 13, I took my treasured Tehuana to the workshop she shares with family members in Ocotlán de Morelos (Av. Morelos #428). Five days later, the repair had been completed and she brought the sculpture to my home.
Fran Garcia Vásquez
When Fran unwrapped and placed the Tehuana in my hands, I must admit I became a little teary eyed. The sculpture is as good as new and looks proud and serene in her new home.
March 19 was Día de las Artesanas y los Artesanos in Mexico and the entire month of March is designated “Month of the Artisan.” I want to thank all of them deeply for carrying on, often renewing, and always enriching traditions with their own creative spirit.
The day before yesterday, there was water, water everywhere and lots of drops to drink! It was the fourth Friday of Lent, Día de la Samaritana, an “only in Oaxaca” celebration.
Xocote restaurant on Calle Antequera, Barrio de Jalatlaco.
The Day of the Good Samaritan was inspired by the Gospel of John story in the New Testament when a tired and thirsty Jesus, on his way to Galilee, asks a Samaritan woman at Jacob’s Well in Sychar for some water. The request was highly unusual because, according to the Old Testament, “Jews regarded the Samaritans as foreigners and their attitude was often hostile.” The woman complied with his request and the rest is history.
Laboratorio de Análisis Clínicos Qualis on 5 de mayo, Barrio de Jalatlaco.
Celebrating the Good Samaritan in Oaxaca began in the atria of churches at the end of the 19th century and is a popular and much-loved tradition. People of all ages, from small children to grandparents, line up at bougainvillea and palm decorated booths in front of churches, restaurants, businesses, and schools for the traditional Día de la Samaritana free flavored waters.
Santa Hierba restaurant, 5 de mayo, Barrio de Jalatlaco.
By noon, masses of people had gathered in the atrium of the local church, Templo de San Matías Jalatlaco, where two long rows of tables, under the shade of the tented atrium, were lined with massive bowls filled with colorful aguas on offer. However, I preferred to avoid the crowds and wander through the streets of my Jalatlaco neighborhood.
Miscelánea Tepeaca, 5 de mayo, Barrio de Jalatlaco.
By the way, we are not talking plain water, these are divinely flavored aguas frescas made with fresh fruits, herbs, flowers, and more — jamaica (hibiscus), horchata, chilacayote (squash), tamarindo, sandia (watermelon), and tejate.
Espacio Ermita Arte y Diseño, Calle Hidalgo, Barrio de Jalatlaco.
In the name of the environment, an appeal was made for people to bring their own cups. And, I think a majority complied!
Asador Bacanora, 5 de mayo, Barrio de Jalatlaco.
After almost two hours, three aguas, and being surrounded by smiling people enjoying this celebration of generosity, I returned home with my heart full of gratitude for this Oaxacan tradition. I love this day and the message it imparts and the way it brings neighbors together.
Should you find yourself in Llano Park early on a Friday morning during Lent, your senses will be assaulted with the cacophony of multiple bands (playing different tunes at the same time!), twirling marmotas, dancing monos, cheering students, young men loaded down with flowers, and young women dressed to the nines circling the statue of Benito Juárez.
Viernes del Llano (aka, Paseos Florales del Llano) is a fifty year old “only in Oaxaca” tradition held during the first five Fridays of Lent. Apparently, dating back to the 19th century, Oaxaca had a tradition, promoted by the church, of paying homage to women for the important role they play in the support of the family. The ritual died out, but was resurrected in the seventies by the Universidad Autónoma Benito Juárez de Oaxaca (UABJO) to recover “religious and family values.”
The tradition was put on hold during the pandemic, but is back in full force. I was in Teotitlán del Valle for this year’s first paseo but, along with my neighbor, attended the second one on March 3rd featuring Preparatoria 6. It must be a very large school as there were 85 participants.
The winners (photos below) were announced in five different categories — that in English translated (approximately) to: Miss Photogenic, Miss Social Media, Godmother of Flowers, Best Cheerleader, and Godmother of Friday.
While it is very colorful, joyous, fun to observe, and is a lucrative day for flower vendors, this article (in Spanish) raises some obvious questions, including: Is this tradition or sexism? And, is this something educational institutions should be promoting?
March 8 is International Women’s Day and in commemoration, photos of the women devils at San Martín Tilcajete’s Carnaval celebration. By the way, women devils are a recent and welcome innovation.
“The aim of the IWD 2023 #EmbraceEquity campaign theme is to get the world talking about Why equal opportunities aren’t enough. People start from different places, so true inclusion and belonging require equitable action.” (https://www.internationalwomensday.com/theme)
This afternoon, women and their supporters will take to the streets of Oaxaca not in celebration but to remember, commemorate, and raise awareness and respect for women raising their voices for equality and equity.
After a three year absence (two due to the pandemic and last year due to a blockade), blogger buddy Chris and I finally returned to San Martín Tilcajete to experience the mayhem and magic of their Carnaval (aka: Shrove Tuesday, Carnival, Fat Tuesday, Mardi Gras) celebration. We arrived in the late morning and, thanks to an invitation from our friend Gabriel Sosa of Matlacihua Arte, we were just in time to visit several devils preparing to take to the streets.
There is face paint involved.
And, there is body paint — a mixture of vegetable oil (with the possible addition of motor oil) and the same powdered paint used on the intricately decorated masks and alebrije the village is famous for.
Preparation is definitely a cooperative activity.
There are also cowbells worn to issue a clamorous invitation to residents and visitors to join the festivities.
Once the finishing touches are completed — cowbells tied around each devil’s waist and paint touch-ups — they leave the family compound.
Once out on the dusty streets (it is the dry season) of San Martín Tilcajete, they join with other devils issuing their clanging invitation throughout the village and, occasionally “tagging” a suspecting or unsuspecting bystander with a little of their oil based paint.
A word to the wise, if you go, don’t wear your favorite clothes and especially, don’t wear white!
Día de Carnaval (aka, Shrove Tuesday, Fat Tuesday, Mardi Gras, Carnival, day before the beginning of Lent) is coming in two days and, in order to promote the varying celebrations in the state of Oaxaca, the Secretaría de Fomento Turístico (Secretariat of the Promotion of Tourism) invited delegations from various villages in the state to showcase their unique traditions in a grand parade down the city’s walking street, Macedonio Alcalá. The costumes and body paint were outstanding, but it was the masks and faces that spoke to me.
My photos were from the gathering point at the Cruz de Piedra. The route proceeded down Macedonio Alcalá, turned right onto Morelos, and ended at the Plaza de la Danza. According to the poster promoting this wild, wacky, and surreal parade, participating delegations were from Chalcatongo de Hidalgo, Villa de Zaachila, San Blas Atempa, San Pedro Amuzgos, Santa Catarina Minas, Magdalena Teitipac, Santiago Juxtlahuaca, San Bartolo Coyotepec, San Juan Cacahuatepec, Santa Maria Zacatepec, San Pedro Totomachapam, San Andrés Huaxpaltepec, San Sebastián Tecomaxtlahuaca, Oaxaca de Juárez, and Santa María Coyotepec. I’m not sure if I saw them all, but I do know San Martín Tilcajete was also there — and that’s where I will be celebrating Día de Carnaval on Tuesday.
This morning I woke to the sound of music — a live trio singing traditional Mexican boleros drifted through an open window. Though it was 6:15 AM, I couldn’t help smiling at being awakened to romantic songs like these sung by Trio Los Panchos.
On this Valentine’s Day, known in Mexico as Día del Amor y la Amistad (Day of Love and Friendship), some much loved person was being serenaded.
Once the calendar turned to February, hearts, flowers, balloons, candy, and stuffed animals have been featured in windows and sidewalk vendor displays.
¡Feliz Día del Amor y la Amistad! And, because International Mother Language Day is coming up on February 21, learn to say “I love you” to lovers and friends in 7 of the 69 indigenous languages spoken in Mexico — including Zapoteco, Mixteco, and a couple of other languages spoken in Oaxaca.
The wedding industry is booming in Oaxaca and some of the biggest and most elaborate bodas (weddings) happen at the gold leaf laden Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán. While the doors of the church are closed to the public during the ceremony, all are welcome to enjoy the celebration that follows once the newly married couple emerges through the massive wooden doors. Wedding planners provide traditional wedding calendas (parades) that include a brass band, bride and groom monos, marmotas emblazoned with the couple’s first names, dancers dressed in regional costumes, and often mezcal! This was one of last Saturday’s contributions…
Bride mono alongside a perro piñata.
Marmota waiting to be twirled in celebration of Marcela and Alonso’s boda.
Istmo dancers waiting with mezcal and canutos de carrizo necklaces to drink it from.
China Oaxaqueña dancers and their canastas waiting in the shade.
Putla de Guerrero unmasked tiliche dancer with cell phone in hand before the calenda begins.
Needless to say, there is a lot of “hurry up and wait” for both participants and onlookers. The anticipation builds before the band strikes up tunes familiar to Oaxaqueños and anyone who has attended La Guelaguetza, the bride and groom step into the atrium, and the dancing begins.
Young marmota dancer and spectators with cameras.
The bride and groom emerge and dancing begins.
Flor de Piña dancers dancing with their pineapples.
Danza de la Pluma dancers and marmotas.
The band, dancers, bride, groom, and wedding guests will eventually dance their way down Oaxaca’s walking street, the Macedonio Alcalá (aka, Andador Turístico), stopping traffic at intersections and tourists on sidewalks, before arriving at the reception destination — wherever that may be. By the way, if you are wondering about the cost for all of this, according to this website, the price for a wedding with the reception at the beautiful Jardín Etnobotánico (originally part of the Santo Domingo convent complex) is 4,000 pesos per person. Doing the math: For 100 people, at the current exchange rate, that would be over $20,000 (US) — well above the price range for most Oaxaqueños but quite popular among the well-heeled destination wedding crowd.
One of the joys of living in Oaxaca de Juárez is being able to walk most everywhere I need to go. On this particular day, I headed 2 km. south to Veana Oaxaca Mayoreo in search of more plastic chairs for my terrace. Though the route, which took me down Calle de Xicoténcatl, wasn’t one I normally followed, nor along the most scenic and/or quaint of streets, it still had scenes to surprise and delight.
Given that my mission was successful, the young male sales clerk hoisted the six chairs I’d purchased and carried them half a block, where he set them down on the sidewalk at the next intersection, telling me this was the best location to hail a taxi. An empty taxi appeared within three minutes. More reasons why I love Oaxaca!
Mexican Peso Converter
View From Casita Colibrí 