The second Sunday in 2021 walk took us to Xochimilco (“X” pronounced like “S”).
We never know where our feet will take us and who we will meet along the way.
Archive for the ‘Culture’ Category
Second Sunday in Xochimilco
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Neighborhoods, Travel & Tourism, tagged archway, arquito, Barrio de Xochimilco, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photos, sculptures, street art, urban art, wall art on January 17, 2021| 14 Comments »
Art of the Sunday walk
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Barrio de Jalatlaco, Bouler, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photos, stencil art, street art, urban art, URTARTE, wall art on January 9, 2021| 4 Comments »
Last Sunday’s first Sunday of 2021 walk…
Going to and from Barrio de Jalatlaco, there is always something old and new to see.
3 Kings and cake
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Food, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged El Día De Los Reyes Magos, food, los tres Reyes Magos, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, Rosca de Reyes, Three Kings cake, Three Kings Day, Wise Men on January 6, 2021| 4 Comments »
Feliz Día de los Reyes Magos / Happy Three Kings day! Today is the day Gaspar, Melchor, and Baltazar bring gifts to the children of Mexico. In normal, non Covid-19 times, the municipal DIF (Desarrollo Integral de la Familia) agency and private organizations sponsored a toy drive. Toys filled the Alameda to be given to the city’s disadvantaged children, along with milk and juice. Crafts, games, and music were set up to entertain. I haven’t seen or heard of any evidence it is happening this year. Let’s hope these children have not been forgotten.
In addition to kings bringing kids gifts, January 6 also calls for a special cake — the wreath shaped Rosca de Reyes (Three Kings bread). This morning, I walked up to Pan con Madre bakery to buy mine to share with apartment staff and friends.
And, surprise, there is a plastic Niño Dios figurine hidden in each Rosca de Reyes, remembering Mary and Joseph concealing baby Jesus from King Herod. If you are the “lucky” person to bite into it, you must host a tamales and atole party on February 2 — Candelaria (Candlemas).
Guess who the lucky person was? Yes, it was me!
2020 Hindsight
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Celebrations, Churches, Creativity, Culture, Gardens, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Agaves Contemporáneos Oaxaqueños, Argiope, Avila Beach, Basilica of Nuestra Señora de Soledad, birds, calenda, California, coronavirus fallout, COVID-19 fallout, hindsight quote, lettuce, Mexico, Oaxaca, parade, photos, sculpture, spider, Susana Trilling, Templo de San Felipe Neri, Xochimilco Aqueduct on December 31, 2020| 25 Comments »
Hindsight is the ability to understand, after something has happened, why or how it was done and how it might have been done better.
2020 was a year that most of us would like to forget but that will probably remain vividly etched in our memory banks for the rest of our lives. It was a year our worlds became smaller and forced us to see what was before us. It was a year that we will continue to examine and try to understand. It was a year that has important lessons to teach about who we are individually and collectively.
With a renewed appreciation for the small things that bring joy and give life meaning, on this New Year’s Eve, I wish you all health, peace, and joy in 2021.
A few of my favorite scenes…
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Benito Juárez image, coronavirus fallout, COVID-19 fallout, cubrebocas, Danza de los Rubios image, face masks, Frida Kahlo image, masks, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, stencil art, street art, urban art, wall art on December 27, 2020| 4 Comments »
‘Twas Nochebuena in Oaxaca
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Flora, Gardens, Holidays, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged “Lalo” Guerrero, Casita Colibrí, Christmas decorations, Christmas tree, Irma Garza, Mexico, Nacimiento de navidad, Nochebuena, Oaxaca, olive tree, Pancho Claus ‘Twas the night before Christmas, poinsettias on December 24, 2020| 8 Comments »
While there may be no life-size nacimiento (Nativity scene) or towering Christmas tree standing in Oaxaca’s zócalo this year, mine in miniature have been retrieved from the storage closet and sit atop the sideboard of my great room.
In this challenging holiday season, may this newly remastered version of “Pancho Claus” by Chicano musical legend Eduardo “Lalo” Guerrero and sung by Irma Garza bring you a chuckle or two on this Christmas Eve — known in Mexico as Nochebuena.
Pancho Claus
‘Twas the night before Christmas and all through the casa
Mama she was busy preparing the masa
To make the tamales for the tamalada
And all the ingredients for the enchiladas
Papa in the front room with all the muchachas
Was dancing the mambo and doing the cha cha
My brothers and sisters were out in the hall
Listening to Elvis singing rock ‘n roll
When all of a sudden there came such a racket
I jumped out of bed and I put on my jacket
I looked out the window and in front of the house
Was my old uncle Pedro as drunk as a louse
He ran in the casa he grabbed the guitarra
He let out a yell and played “Guadalajara”
I was starting to wonder as I lay there alone
How old Santa Claus was to visit my home
With all of this noise they would scare him away
When all of a sudden I hear someone say
Hey Pablo, Chuchito Hey! Arriba! Gordito, Jose
Get up there you bums or you don’t get no hay
And then to my wondering eyes did appear
Eight cute little donkeys instead of reindeer
They pulled a carreta that was full of toys
For all of us good little girls and boys
The fat little driver waved his big sombrero
And said Merry Christmas! Feliz Año Nuevo!
That means “Happy New Year”
And then I hear him sing
I am Santa’s cousin from south of the border
My name’s Pancho Claus and I bring you your order
I hear him exclaim as he drove past the porches
“Merry Christmas to all and to all Buenas Noches”
From my home to yours, I wish you good health and Felices Fiestas!
Shannon in wonderland
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Alice in Wonderland quotations, Christmas decorations, coronavirus fallout, COVID-19 fallout, Louis Carroll quotations, Mexico, monos, murals, Oaxaca, photos, Santa Claus, semáforo system, street art, urban art, wall art on December 21, 2020| 2 Comments »
Today Oaxaca regressed to “If you are able, stay in your house” Covid-19 semáforo naranja, seemingly for the umpteenth time, not that it seems to make any difference. A morning walk to Mercado Benito Juárez revealed restaurants continuing to offer indoor dining; a zócalo teeming with people, street vendors, and the tents of a plantón (protest encampment); and a mercado bustling with people. These days I feel like I’m living in Alice in Wonderland’s world…
“Off with their heads!”
“One day Alice came to a fork in the road and saw a Cheshire cat in a tree. ‘Which road do I take?’ she asked. ‘Where do you want to go?’ was his response. ‘I don’t know,’ Alice answered. ‘Then,’ said the cat, ‘it doesn’t matter.”
“Little Alice fell
d
o
w
n
the hOle,
bumped her head
and bruised her soul”
“What a strange world we live in… Said Alice to the Queen of hearts”
All quotes from Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland by Louis Carroll.
Solitude for Soledad
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Basilica de la Soledad, Basilica of Our Lady of Solitude, ceramic sculptures, coronavirus fallout, COVID-19 fallout, Irma García Blanco, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, Queen of Oaxaca, religious celebrations, Virgen de La Soledad, Virgin of Solitude on December 18, 2020| 6 Comments »
It is a mostly quiet feast day for Oaxaca’s patron saint, La Virgen de la Soledad (the Virgin of Solitude). If you have ever been to Oaxaca you probably visited her at the Basilica built in her honor and seen images of this Reina y Patrona de Oaxaca (Queen and Patroness of Oaxaca) for sale, carried in religious processions, and tucked into niches.
In non Covid-19 times, she is celebrated with anything but solitude. A cacophony of chiming bells, brass bands, crackles, pops, bangs, and whistles from fireworks, toritos, and a castillo fill the air (and severely limit sleep) in the days and nights leading up to December 18. And the aroma of Oaxaca street food from stalls set up to feed the pilgrims who often spend the night of December 17, permeates the neighborhood.
Since her unceremonious arrival 400 years ago on a mule who laid his burden down and refused to get back up, “In critical moments, such as earthquakes, epidemics, droughts, conflicts, social upheaval and others, she has been with us, to give us her company. Not only on her feast day, but almost every day they come to give thanks to Our Lady for continued life and good health.” — Nicolás Ramírez García, Rector de la Basílica Menor. (My translation)
This year she has not processed through the city but instead remains behind the closed doors of her home in the Basilica de la Soledad. In order to keep her people safe from the virus, today her bejeweled figure does not preside over open air mass in the church atrium, the faithful are not able to line up to pray before her, light candles, and touch her mantle with bouquets of flowers and traditional herbs. Worshippers have been urged to maintain the faith from their homes and pray in front of their own images of La Virgen.
The Virgin of Solitude has been my neighbor for more than eleven years and I mourn the unnatural quiet, but look forward to next year — no doubt a celebration magnified in gratitude for surviving the pandemic.
*Irma García Blanco is one of the Grandes Maestros del Arte Popular de Oaxaca and is the daughter of Oaxaca’s grand matriarch of decorative pottery, Teodora Blanco Nuñez.
Update: While the doors were closed, based on photos in this article, apparently a limited number of worshippers were allowed into the Basilica for the mass celebrated by the archbishop.
Words of wisdom
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Travel & Tourism, tagged altars, ceramic sculptures, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Día de Muertos, Estudio Dinamo, Mexico, Oaxaca, ofrendas, photos, Three Wise Monkeys, Voces de Copal Galeria on December 15, 2020| Leave a Comment »
The Three Wise Monkeys…
Well, maybe not monkeys! From the Día de Muertos altar “Transitions” by Estudio Dinamo at Voces de Copal Galeria.
Guadalupe of the streets
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Día de la Virgen de Guadalupe, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, Virgen de Guadalupe, Virgin of Guadalupe on December 12, 2020| Leave a Comment »
Today, Mexico celebrates the Queen of Mexico, Empress of America, and patron saint of Mexico — Día de la Virgen de Guadalupe. Alas, due to Covid-19, all is quiet on the western front.
However, no matter the day, Guadalupe is always present on the streets of Oaxaca. But, for goodness sake, please don’t leave her your garbage!
Mostly muted for Juquila
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Creativity, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Capilla de la Virgen de Juquila, coronavirus fallout, COVID-19 fallout, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, processions, Virgen de Juquila, Virgin of Juquila on December 8, 2020| 2 Comments »
Save for yesterday’s 5:00 AM jarring explosion of cohetes (rockets — all bang, no bling) and clanging church bells coming from the Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad heralding the start of the celebrations for the Virgen de Juquila, the last thirty-two hours have been mostly muted, with only the occasional chiming bells and bursting cohetes — very quiet by Oaxaca standards.
Due to Covid-19 concerns, in consultation with Oaxaca’s health department, the archbishop of Oaxaca cancelled holy processions through the streets and called upon the faithful to forego pilgrimmages. This is especially sad for Santa Catarina Juquila, where Juquila’s shrine is located, as just last week it was announced the town had been designated a Mexican Pueblo Mágico. The archbishop also ordered churches closed, with masses to be celebrated and broadcast from behind locked doors during December’s festivities honoring the Virgen de Juquila (December 8), the Virgen de Guadalupe (December 12), and the Virgen de La Soledad (December 18).
Now if only other people and places would take this pandemic as seriously.
Jardín Conzatti fauna
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Parks & Plazas, Travel & Tourism, tagged decorated utility boxes, Jardín Conzatti, Mexico, Oaxaca, paintings, photos, popular travel destinations, street art, urban art on December 5, 2020| Leave a Comment »
Real and imagined, fauna are alive and well in the city.
Hummingbirds, squirrels, and butterflies live, play, and love among the trees, dogs, humans, and on a utility box in Jardín Conzatti.
I love juxtaposition
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged backpacks, cars, juxtaposition, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, quotations, stencils, street art, urban art, wall art on December 1, 2020| 8 Comments »
I’m always trying to find ‘connections’ between things. That art is the juxtaposition of a lot of things that seem unrelated but add up to something recognizable. –Pat Metheny
The taste for quotations (and for the juxtaposition of incongruous quotations) is a Surrealist taste. –Susan Sontag
I get the same charge from juxtaposition of colors as I do from juxtaposition of chords. –Joni Mitchell
Creativity is that marvelous capacity to grasp mutually distinct realities and draw a spark from their juxtaposition. –Max Ernst
I love the juxtaposition of a sweet little blouse with a motocross look. –Melissa McCarthy
Cities are about juxtaposition. In Florence, classical buildings sit against medieval buildings. It’s that contrast we like. –Richard Rogers
Thankful on the rooftop
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Celebrations, Culture, Food, tagged coronavirus fallout, COVID-19 fallout, El Día de Acción de Gracias, food porn, friendship, home cooking, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, Thanksgiving on November 28, 2020| 4 Comments »
What an unusual yet lovely (and delicious) Thanksgiving 2020 was.
After the fact, I realized this was only the second Thanksgiving I’ve shared with just one other person. Childhood dinners were filled with parents, grandparents, aunts, uncles, and cousins. Even the Thanksgiving I spent in Denmark, the international school I attended prepared a turkey with all the fixin’s dinner — to the delight of the American students and curiosity of the other international students and Danes. Once married, we hosted or joined family and/or friends — and that has been my tradition ever since, even here in Oaxaca.
Keeping Covid-19 protocols in mind, Kalisa, my (now famous) friend, neighbor, and cocinera extraordinaire and I decided we would persevere in an attempt to carry on with an albeit downsized celebration of just the two of us on my terrace. For the main course, we ruled out turkey, discarded chicken as not special, and settled on repeating the success of rabbit — concluding it would go well with my cranberry/pear relish and sage dressing. And, who knows? The indigenous peoples may have proffered rabbit to the starving and clueless foreigners.
So, we made our own pilgrimage up to Pochote Mercado Orgánico in Colonia Reforma to again purchase the criollo rabbit Kalisa would be preparing. A couple of days later, at Mercado IV Centenario, we happened upon camotes/sweet potatoes to be used for her “pumpkin” cheesecake. Unlike my first several Thanksgivings here, when bags of fresh cranberries could only be found at Mercado Hidalgo, I was able to purchase all the ingredients for my cranberry/pear relish at Mercado Benito Juárez. As for the dressing, I still had some Bell’s Seasoning brought from the USA a couple of years ago, and the rest was easily found. Looking at our menu, it occurred to me that perhaps we needed something green. That was easily solved with some baby lettuce from my garden (alas, no photo).
And so it was, a Thanksgiving where two friends gave thanks for our very present blessings — friendship, health, abundance, and being welcomed into the beautiful and loving arms of Oaxaca.
By the way, the place settings were for photo-op purposes only. We retired with filled plates and glasses of wine to the south end of the terrace where we could sit and eat 8 feet apart.
Theme going on
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Politics, Travel & Tourism, tagged Cartoon Trump, graffiti, photos, stencils, street art, urban art, wall art on November 20, 2020| 2 Comments »
The walls of Oaxaca have a theme going on…
I think they have been watching too much “el norte” news!
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- Shannon in wonderland
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- Mostly muted for Juquila
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- I love juxtaposition
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