One of the great things about having friends come to visit, is going places and doing things not on the usual agenda. Thus, last week, while accompanying my friend B on a private tour of sights outside Oaxaca city, the guide asked if we knew about the Muertos murals in Villa de Zaachila and would we like to see them. Absolutely, we said!
In late October, prior to Día de Muertos, young artists are invited to paint Day of the Dead related murals on the walls of Calle Coquiza, the street that connects the church, Santa María Natividad, to the municipal cemetery. Customs, beliefs, and legends provide the inspiration, as well as day-to-day activities.
Flor de Piña dancers welcome residents and visitors to step through the doorway to the land beyond.
Where electric meters serve as faces.
And, telephone poles add a third dimension to the design.
Painted pitchers and candles nestle in vegetation escaping from under a portón.
And, a dancer frolics in sand waiting to be mixed into concrete for construction next door.
Skeletons use an electric meter to get a leg up in climbing the conduit.
Trees provide shade, as Pan de Muertos is baked in an outdoor oven.
Leaves flutter above, as Bu’pu del Valle (chocolate atole) is frothed with a molinillo before being served in traditional hand-painted jicaras.
Flowers tumble over the wall to adorn a catrina portrait’s hat.
The murals along the walls of Calle Coquiza remain throughout the year — until replaced by the next Día de Muertos artists’ offerings. In addition, during Day of the Dead, this Calzada de los Muertos (Road of the Dead) is paved with sand paintings. It is definitely going on my Muertos “must see” itinerary.
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