From the sublime to the ridiculous and from the mundane to the special, scenes around Oaxaca frequently bring a smile.
I miss this when I’m not here.
Archive for the ‘Food’ Category
Scenes from around town
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Food, Travel & Tourism, tagged brooms, Fundación En Via, garbage truck, Guelaguetza desfile, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, sculptures, stickers, street art, street vendors on August 17, 2026| 7 Comments »
Back in Oaxaca!
Posted in Culture, Food, Restaurants, Travel & Tourism, tagged food porn, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations on June 15, 2026| 8 Comments »
It’s been a typical, crazy, full-on Oaxaca, return. When my plane touched down three weeks ago, the main road leading to and from the airport was blockaded by Sección 22 of the teachers’ union, so it took 1-1/2 hours (usually 30-40 min) in bumper-to-bumper traffic over the back roads for my driver to drop me at mi Casita Colibrí.
The following day, I was met with a cold water shower and hair washing — because both my gas tanks were empty. Later that day, a massive thunderstorm right over the city knocked the power out for 5+ hours. And, navigating the tents and tarps that cover the zócalo and surrounding streets (also set up by the teachers’ union) continue to present a bit of a challenge — though I must say, the encampment is a lot cleaner than in years past.
Despite it all, it’s so good to be back in my Oaxaca home, shop at my local tiendas and mercados, and, with good friends, savor the creations of Oaxaca’s cooks.
First were the Shrimp Tacos (with the requisite condiments) at my neighborhood favorite, Verdemar, with gal pal K.
Several days later, also with K, stumbling upon Mariscos La Quebrada in the La Noria neighborhood was a delightful and delicious (Aguachile de Camarones!) surprise.
A week later, I enjoyed a lovely and a little more upscale comida with visiting friend S at the beautiful La Toscana Oaxaca – the Empanadas Argentinas and cheese stuffed onions pictured were only half of what we ordered.
And, this wasn’t all! In between the above, I’ve dined with friends at the always reliable La Popular, the new-to-me Tastavins in Jalatlaco, and a comedor high in the Sierra Mixe pueblo of Santa María Tlahuitoltepec. More on the latter, later!
Here but soon there
Posted in Animals, Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Food, Holidays, photos, popular travel destinations, Textiles, Travel & Tourism, tagged aprons, baskets, Carrizo, cultural heritage, festivals, fire trucks, food trucks, goats, here and there, horses, Mexico, Mill Valley, Oaxaca, parades, photos, popular travel destinations on May 12, 2026| 10 Comments »
As my regular readers may have noticed, the blog posts of late have been few and far between. I must admit, I’ve found it really difficult to motivate writing about Oaxaca while I’m having to spend so much time in El Norte — though, goodness knows, photos and topics are definitely not in short supply. However, I guess anticipating my upcoming return to Oaxaca has prompted me to appreciate both here and there and provided the spark I needed to sit down and create this blog post.
Baskets for sale…
Food trucks…
Aprons for sale…
Goats with their humans…
Fire trucks on parade…
Horses on parade…
In the words of Maya Angelou, “We are more alike than unalike.”
Food glorious food!
Posted in Culture, Food, Travel & Tourism, tagged Empanada de Amarillo, food porn, Mexico, mole negro, Oaxaca, Oaxaca restaurants, photos, popular travel destinations, tamales, Teotitlán del Valle on December 4, 2025| 11 Comments »
From restaurants to street food to home cooks, for the last seven weeks I have been making up for eight months away from my favorite Oaxacan food.
And then there was Barbacoa de Chivo at Adolfa’s stall in the Tlacolula de Matamoros mercado. It smelled so good and I was so hungry, I forgot to take a photo! However, most of the time I’ve been dining at home on tamales from the gal around the corner and my own version of empanadas made with hot-off-the-comal tortillas from the gal across the street.
Taste of my return
Posted in Animals, Casita Colibrí, Creativity, Culture, Food, Travel & Tourism, tagged cats on a roof, flowers in a vase, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, papel picado, photos, popular travel destinations, street art, tamales, urban art, wall art on January 31, 2025| 10 Comments »
After being in el norte for an entire year (by far the longest I’ve been away from Oaxaca since I relocated 15+ years ago), I’m back! It’s been mostly a smooth return — well, except for my refrigerator’s failed fuse, causing a freezer full of tamales, mole, and soup stocks to spoil. Thankfully, my neighbors discovered it the day before my return and emptied and cleaned the refrigerator and an electrician replaced the fuse a mere ten hours before my arrival. Since then, this past week has been spent restocking the larder, cleaning, attending to the garden, catching up with friends, and enjoying my home, my neighborhood, and the flavors of Oaxaca — including…
The murals…
The streets…
The door-to-door flower vendor…
The comida…
And, let’s not forget, the view from Casita Colibrí!
It’s SO good to be back — alas, if only for a month. However, I intend to relish every moment!
Taste of Oaxaca in Brooklyn
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Food, Restaurants, Travel & Tourism, tagged Brooklyn, Diana Montaño Santiago, Mexican restaurants, murals, Oaxaca cuisine, photos, popular travel destinations, Sobre Masa, street art, Zack Wangeman on June 2, 2024| 2 Comments »
I’m still in el norte. The good news is I’m missing the multiple months of unrelenting 90º+ F (ugh!) weather Oaxaca has been experiencing. The bad news is my taste buds have been missing the flavors of Oaxaca. However, last Sunday, while visiting my Oaxaca snowbird neighbors at their home on Long Island, New York, we ventured into the Bushwick neighborhood of Brooklyn for brunch at Sobre Masa.
The restaurant is the creation of young couple, Diana and Zack Wangeman — both born and raised in Oaxaca and offspring of treasured friends of mine. Zack is a classically trained chef and Diana, a Mexican doctor who grew up in the kitchen of Tierra Antigua, the restaurant in Teotitlán del Valle of her traditional cocinera mother, Carina Santiago. My craving for the complex flavors and real nixtamalized tortillas I have come to know and love, was more than satisfied! (Please forgive the images below, as I was too busy diving into each dish and kept forgetting to take photos.)
If you find yourself in and around New York City, get thee to Brooklyn, enjoy the sophisticated flavors of traditional southern Mexico cuisine, and begin to understand why Oaxaca has become one of the foodie capitals of the world. In addition, like Oaxaca, murals decorate neighborhood walls!
Looking back on 2023
Posted in Agriculture, Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Food, Holidays, Museums, Sports, Textiles, Travel & Tourism, tagged construction site cross, food festival, José Garcia Antonío, Mexico, Mitla grecas, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, Teotitlán del Valle, views on December 31, 2023| 13 Comments »
Jean-Baptiste Racine’s quote, “Life is a comedy to those who think, a tragedy to those who feel” comes to mind when I reflect on 2023. Looking at the state of the world, I think many of us have spent the year vacillating between laughing and crying. However, on this New Year’s Eve, I prefer to remember the celebrations and places I experienced with family and friends, old and new. These are the times that nourish my soul and empower me to welcome 2024.
Many thanks to all the wonderful readers of my blog; I am constantly amazed and gratified you choose to stop by. On this New Year’s Eve, with a renewed appreciation for the small things that bring joy and give life meaning, I wish you all, ¡Feliz Año Nuevo!
Celebrating a seasonal dish
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Food, food festival, Travel & Tourism, tagged culinary traditions, Festival del Mole de Caderas, food festival, Huaxmole de Caderas, Mexico, Mixtec regional dish, Mole de Caderas, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, regional cuisine, traditional cuisine, video on October 17, 2023| 4 Comments »
This past weekend, the city held a three-day celebration of Mole de Caderas — a traditional seasonal Mixtec dish from Huajuapan de León, Oaxaca and nearby Tehuacán, Puebla. It is only served during the fall, when the goats are made to make the ultimate sacrifice — and it is absolutely delicious!
This special dish is made from the hip (caderas) and the spine of goats that have been raised for one and a half years. Starting in July they are fattened on the forage unique to the hills of the Mixteca, large amounts of salt, and a little water — this is what provides the meat with fat, softness, and juiciness and gives the broth its distinctive flavor. In early fall, when the shepherds have brought the goats back to the farms, there is a ritual filled celebration that includes offerings, incense, music, and dancing, including a dance with the goats — all in honor of the goats who were about to give their lives to feed the population.
At last Friday’s opening of the festival, there were dignitaries galore (including the governor of Oaxaca), multiple speeches, and a moving procession with two goats to the tune of Canción Mixteca, a song which always brings tears to my eyes. It was followed by a dance with the goats and a stylized reenactment of the ritual killing of the goats (no actual blood was spilled).
We were then funneled through a palapa decorated tunnel to the tented dining area, where traditional cooks from Huajuapan de León and Oaxaca city waited proudly behind booths displaying ollas (clay pots) filled with steaming Mole de Caderas and Huaxmole de Caderas. Hmmmm… I wondered what the difference was between Huaxmole de Caderas and Mole de Caderas.
Once home, a little research ensued (I am a librarian, after all) and I found that both dishes share common preparation and major ingredients. However, Huaxmole de Caderas is distinguished with the addition of toasted seeds from the huaje (also spelled guaje) tree — the tree that gave Oaxaca its name. Whereas, Mole de Caderas is prepared with green beans. However, if huajes are added to the latter, it is considered Huaxmole de Caderas. The herb, chepiche (aka, pepicha) is also used and, at the festival, both chepiche and huaje were used to garnish the plates.
By the way, there were also fresh tortillas, hot off the comal, and booths offering goat tacos, sweets, aguas, and mezcal from the Mixtec region.
References:
El mole de caderas, un plato insignia de la Mixteca
¡Ojo aquí! Estas son las diferencias entre el Mole de Caderas y el Huaxmole
Domesticated by corn
Posted in Agriculture, Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Food, Travel & Tourism, tagged Carina Santiago, corn, Día Nacional del Maíz, food, Los Guardianes del Maíz (documentary), maíz, Mexico, murals, National Day of Corn, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, street art, Teotitlán del Valle, urban art, wall art on September 29, 2023| 6 Comments »
Today, September 29, Mexico celebrates Día Nacional del Maíz — a day honoring the sacred maíz, symbol of the country and base food crop for most of the nation. In Oaxaca, one never has to look far to see corn and not just in fields. Corn is depicted in murals, featured in decorations, and (of course) on most every dining table, most every day.
In the words of cocinera tradicional Carina Santiago, at the beginning of the trailer (below) for the tremendous documentary, Los Guardianes del Maíz / The Keepers of Corn, “Corn was not domesticated by man, man was domesticated by corn.”
Day in mezcal country
Posted in Beverages, Culture, Food, Travel & Tourism, tagged agave fields, Los Huamuches, Mexico, mezcal, Oaxaca, palenques, photos, popular travel destinations, restaurants, tlayudas on September 22, 2023| 6 Comments »
It’s been several years (thanks, Covid and bloqueos) since blogger buddy Chris and I made a road trip along our favorite mezcal route. From the city we headed southeast on highway 190 — passing Tlacolula de Matamoros and Santiago Matatlán and marveling at the proliferation of agave fields along the way.
We turned west on the San Dionisio Ocotepec/Ocotlán de Morelos road, en route to San Baltazar Chichicapam and the palenque of Faustino García Vázques — a palenquero we have known for many years. There was no answer as we rapped several times on the portón, so we ventured a few doors down to his home, knocked, and were rewarded with the familiar face of his wife opening the gate. How lovely it was to sit in their expanding family compound and catch up on their life and business. And, then there was the mezcal.
After being offered a tasting from a jicara of Faustino’s 2023 espadin, we each bought 5 liters of this most excellent mezcal. He poured it into our plastic containers that, once home, would be decanted into glass bottles — some to be stored in our liquor cabinets and others to be stashed away for gifts. By the time we turned north onto highway 175 at Ocotlán de Morelos, hunger beckoned. Lucky for us, Los Huamuches, our “go to” roadside restaurant between Santo Tomás Jalieza and San Martín Tilcajete, wasn’t far away.
We each ordered our “usual” — costillas (ribs) for my blogger buddy and a tlayuda with tasajo for me. It was a delicious and delightul day!
Everything is coming up green, white, & red
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Food, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Barriio de Jalatlaco, Chiles en Nogada, Cristina Potters, El Mes de la Patria, Mexican flag, Mexican Independence, Mexico, Mexico Cooks! blog, Oaxaca, patriotic decorations, photos, popular travel destinations on September 4, 2023| 4 Comments »
Here in Mexico, ’tis the season for displaying the green, white, and red colors of the Mexican flag. The entire month of September, Mes de la Patria (the month of the homeland), Mexico celebrates her successful war of independence from Spain — a war which began on September 16, 1810 and finally ended on September 27, 1821. Late at night on September 15, throughout Mexico bells will sound as the Grito de Dolores will echo from government balconies — mayors, governors, and the president recreating Father Hidalgo’s call to arms for independence.
In the meantime, beginning at the end of August, everything is coming up green, white, and red…
There will also be a patriotic parade through the main streets of Oaxaca on September 16. However, for the foodies among us, the best part is the fleeting presence of Chiles en Nogada on restaurant menus. As Cristina Potters of the Mexico Cooks! blog explains, this is the season when its iconic ingredients are harvested and we are presented with the green of a poblano chile stuffed with a picadillo of seasonal ingredients (not to mention, green of the parsley garnish), covered with a white walnut sauce, and topped with bright red pomegranate seeds.
PS: Cristina also provides a recipe in the link above. ¡Buen provecho!
Missing the food of Oaxaca
Posted in Culture, Food, Travel & Tourism, tagged Cena de Honor Beny Galguau, cocineras, food festival, food porn, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations on August 1, 2023| 6 Comments »
Three-plus weeks in el norte has me eating well but missing the flavors of Oaxaca. Thus, my blogging fingers and thoughts have turned back to the Cena de Honor Beny Galguau, a dinner honoring traditional ceremonial dishes, that I attended on May 25, 2023 at the Centro Gastronómico de Oaxaca.
First the Entradas (Appetizers)…
Followed by the Platos Fuertes (Main Dishes)…
Finally, as if we all weren’t already stuffed, the Postres (Desserts)…
And, there were traditional bebidas (beverages), both alcoholic and non: Mezcall Diamante Zapoteco, Mezcal El Joven Viejo, Cerveza de Piña, Agua de Limón Rayado en su Punto, Café de Olla con Perfume de Canela, Té de Poleo (which was a perfect palate cleanser), Tejate de Cacao, and Chocolate Atole con su Espuma de Cacao.
Needless to say, the traditional cooks were the shining lights of the evening.
With the rain, comes purslane
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Flora, Food, Gardens, tagged cooking, food porn, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, portulaca oleracea, purslane, rooftop garden, verdolaga, volunteer plants on June 22, 2023| 2 Comments »
The rainy season, which came early this year and has disappeared for the past two weeks, has brought a plethora of purslane (verdolaga en español) to the rooftop garden. Most every planter and pot is filled with this uninvited, but much welcome, herb. And, it always inspires me to be a little more creative in the kitchen.
Purslane is not only versatile and delicious, WebMD sings its praises when it comes to its health benefits.
Fine dining, Oaxaca style
Posted in Food, Travel & Tourism, tagged dining well, food porn, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, traditional cuisine on June 14, 2023| 16 Comments »
I realized I haven’t tempted your taste buds with any food porn this year. From fine restaurants to street food, I’ve been eating out a lot and the following are just a small sampling. Actually, they are from the few times I remembered to take out my phone or camera and snap a photo before “digging in.”
While there are no photos from March, I can assure you, I did not starve!
Day in the land of red clay
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Flora, Food, Gardens, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged barro rojo, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, red clay pottery, San Marcos Tlapazola, tlayudas, Valentina Cruz (potter) on June 24, 2022| 6 Comments »
A couple of weeks ago, my friend K and I spent the day in the land of red clay, San Marcos Tlapazola, at the home of potter, Valentina Cruz. I have accumulated quite a collection (though not nearly as much as K) of barro rojo and several of my favorite pieces are by Valentina.
Getting there was quite the adventure. Leaving from Teotitlán del Valle (where I was spending a long weekend), the journey entailed taking a 3-wheeled moto (aka, tuk-tuk) to the highway, catching a bus to Tlacolula de Matamoros, multiple times asking for directions re where to find transportation to take us to Tlapazola, a bit of wandering around, ten blocks of walking, followed by waiting and wondering if we were in the right place. After 1/2 hour, a combi (a glorified pickup truck with wooden benches in the truck bed) arrived and took us up towards the mountains. Needless to say, the bouncing caused by the dirt roads and potholes were felt! Unfortunately, because the back of the truck was covered, we couldn’t even enjoy the views — that had to wait until we finally arrived at Valentina’s home/workshop/store.
The red clay soil isn’t just good for making pottery. Agave, cactus, corn, and squash also seem to thrive under the tender loving care of Valentina and her husband, Don Luis.
When we arrived, Valentina was busy at the tortilla press and comal — making tlayudas (large crispy tortillas) to accompany the chicken soup prepared by her daughter. After we all finished eating comida, we watched as Valentina took out a smooth river rock and began to burnish several pieces. This extra step puts a lovely sheen on her pottery and is one of the things that makes her work stand out.
Of course, I couldn’t resist buying the two horn-playing rabbits (top photo) at the tienda in her home. They join the face with the lid (also in top photo), among my many utilitarian pieces expertly crafted by Valentina. She and her beautiful barro rojo pottery can also be found at the weekly Sunday market in Tlacolula. After this lovely, but long day, we opted for her to call us a taxi to drive back to Teotitlán.
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