May 10 is Día de la Madre in Mexico and to honor the mothers, grandmothers, mother figures, and the daughters, whose future is in their hands, some recent murals seen in the city and countryside.
The celebration of Mother’s Day migrated south from the USA in the early 20th century and was embraced and promoted by the Catholic Church AND the anticlerical Revolutionaries. Their reasons being:
around the 1850s the Liberals… were nervous about women’s growing participation in the public sphere. Establishing motherhood as venerable and the home as sanctified… would give women a sphere of their own where they could be boss. Also, it would keep them off the streets and out of the workplace where they had begun to compete with men for jobs. Under their watch, everyday motherhood became an exalted madre-hood…. The twentieth-century Revolutionaries who succeeded them took the idea and ran with it, adding in 1922 a ritual, Mother’s Day. [Madre: Perilous Journeys with a Spanish Noun by Liza Bakewell, p. 84]
As for keeping them out of the workforce, according to a report citing the 2010 census, 33.3% of women work and this doesn’t even include those working in family operated enterprises. However distasteful the reasons behind the establishment of Mother’s Day in Mexico, it does nothing to diminish the need to honor these beautiful, hardworking, formidable, and loving women.
And to the girls and young women, may you be empowered by the strength and love of the maternal figures in your life to reach for the stars, live without fear, and be whatever you choose to be.
The United Nations declared November 20 as World Children’s Day. However, that is Día de la Revolución in Mexico, thus in 1924, President Álvaro Obregó and Minister of Public Education José Vasconcelos designated April 30 as Día del Niño — the day Mexico celebrates and honors her children. Schools organize parties with games and treats, communities organize special activities, and parents may give their hijas and hijos gifts. However, one of the features of life in Oaxaca that I most appreciate is the way children are included all year round in celebrations.
July 4, 2022 – Convite for the festival honoring Preciosa Sangre de Nuestro Señor Jesucristo, Teotitlán del Valle.
July 4, 2022 – Wearing traditional dress, with her canasta, watching and learning at the Preciosa Sangre de Nuestro Señor Jesucristo convite, Teotitlán del Valle.
July 4, 2023 – Practicing with a marmota at the convite honoring Preciosa Sangre de Nuestro Señor Jesucristo, Teotitlán del Valle.
July 5, 2022 – Playing the roles of La Malinche and Doña Marina in the Danza de la Pluma, Teotitlán del Valle.
September 16, 2022 – Young escaramuza participating in the Independence Day parade in Oaxaca City.
February 4, 2023 – Young boy twirling a marmota during wedding festivities in front of Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán, Oaxaca.
February 18, 2023 – Young cachudos from Santa María Coyotepec participating in the Carnaval parade, Oaxaca.
February 18, 2023 – Young participant in the Carnaval parade, Oaxaca.
February 21, 2023 – Carnaval in San Martín Tilcajete.
April 2, 2023 – Carrying an offering in the Good Friday procession, San Antonino Castillo Velasco.
“… the objective of this [Día del Niño] celebration is to dedicate a moment to understanding the child population, promoting their social inclusion and carrying out activities to promote their well-being and the rights to which they have access as human beings.” (Google translation from this article)
Purple papel picado (actually, plastic) began appearing above streets a month ago. And, in the past few days, the atrium of Templo San Matías Jalatlaco has been decorated with olive trees, sheaves of wheat, and crosses embellished with flowers woven from the base of Sotol leaves.
Yesterday, Calle de Miguel Hidalgo in front of the church was closed to traffic and the Alfombristas Mexicanos colective from Huamantla, Tlaxcala began creating a beautiful tapete (rug) made of colored stones along the length the block.
Purple decorations can also be seen festooning the fronts of homes and businesses in the neighborhood.
You might ask, why all the purple? According to the Ecclesiastical Sewing website, purple symbolizes “the royalty of Christ, His passion and death for our sins, and the coming of spring.” For more of an explanation, click on the link to their website.
Despite the construction on the Alameda across from the Cathedral, the palm weavers from the Mixteca region of Oaxaca are back to sell intricately woven palm fronds to be blessed and carried on Palm Sunday.
And, like most artisan traditions, it’s a family affair.
The day before yesterday, there was water, water everywhere and lots of drops to drink! It was the fourth Friday of Lent, Día de la Samaritana, an “only in Oaxaca” celebration.
Xocote restaurant on Calle Antequera, Barrio de Jalatlaco.
The Day of the Good Samaritan was inspired by the Gospel of John story in the New Testament when a tired and thirsty Jesus, on his way to Galilee, asks a Samaritan woman at Jacob’s Well in Sychar for some water. The request was highly unusual because, according to the Old Testament, “Jews regarded the Samaritans as foreigners and their attitude was often hostile.” The woman complied with his request and the rest is history.
Laboratorio de Análisis Clínicos Qualis on 5 de mayo, Barrio de Jalatlaco.
Celebrating the Good Samaritan in Oaxaca began in the atria of churches at the end of the 19th century and is a popular and much-loved tradition. People of all ages, from small children to grandparents, line up at bougainvillea and palm decorated booths in front of churches, restaurants, businesses, and schools for the traditional Día de la Samaritana free flavored waters.
Santa Hierba restaurant, 5 de mayo, Barrio de Jalatlaco.
By noon, masses of people had gathered in the atrium of the local church, Templo de San Matías Jalatlaco, where two long rows of tables, under the shade of the tented atrium, were lined with massive bowls filled with colorful aguas on offer. However, I preferred to avoid the crowds and wander through the streets of my Jalatlaco neighborhood.
Miscelánea Tepeaca, 5 de mayo, Barrio de Jalatlaco.
By the way, we are not talking plain water, these are divinely flavored aguas frescas made with fresh fruits, herbs, flowers, and more — jamaica (hibiscus), horchata, chilacayote (squash), tamarindo, sandia (watermelon), and tejate.
Espacio Ermita Arte y Diseño, Calle Hidalgo, Barrio de Jalatlaco.
In the name of the environment, an appeal was made for people to bring their own cups. And, I think a majority complied!
Asador Bacanora, 5 de mayo, Barrio de Jalatlaco.
After almost two hours, three aguas, and being surrounded by smiling people enjoying this celebration of generosity, I returned home with my heart full of gratitude for this Oaxacan tradition. I love this day and the message it imparts and the way it brings neighbors together.
March 8 is International Women’s Day and in commemoration, photos of the women devils at San Martín Tilcajete’s Carnaval celebration. By the way, women devils are a recent and welcome innovation.
“The aim of the IWD 2023 #EmbraceEquity campaign theme is to get the world talking about Why equal opportunities aren’t enough. People start from different places, so true inclusion and belonging require equitable action.” (https://www.internationalwomensday.com/theme)
This afternoon, women and their supporters will take to the streets of Oaxaca not in celebration but to remember, commemorate, and raise awareness and respect for women raising their voices for equality and equity.
This morning I woke to the sound of music — a live trio singing traditional Mexican boleros drifted through an open window. Though it was 6:15 AM, I couldn’t help smiling at being awakened to romantic songs like these sung by Trio Los Panchos.
On this Valentine’s Day, known in Mexico as Día del Amor y la Amistad (Day of Love and Friendship), some much loved person was being serenaded.
Once the calendar turned to February, hearts, flowers, balloons, candy, and stuffed animals have been featured in windows and sidewalk vendor displays.
¡Feliz Día del Amor y la Amistad! And, because International Mother Language Day is coming up on February 21, learn to say “I love you” to lovers and friends in 7 of the 69 indigenous languages spoken in Mexico — including Zapoteco, Mixteco, and a couple of other languages spoken in Oaxaca.
2022 began with rainbows and ended with fab food, friends, and family — a good way to say hello and goodbye to a year that continued to bring serious challenges to this planet we call home. In my little Oaxaca corner of the world, the year had its circumstantial complexities but also was filled with visits from old friends, becoming more familiar with my Jalatlaco neighborhood, “any excuse gatherings” with my most excellent neighbors, and several adventures with BFFs in and out of the city.
January 13, 2022 – A rainbow surprise from my rooftop terrace in Barrio de Jalatlaco.
February 19, 2022 – Efedefroy stencil outside Xiguela Tienda, Barrio de Jalatlaco.
March 23, 2022 – Classic car on a street in Barrio de Jalatlaco.
April 12, 2022 – Agave quiote decorating the outside of Templo de San Matías Jalatlaco.
May 30, 2022 – Rainy day streets in Barrio de Jalatlaco.
June 4, 2022 – Found objects art on the rooftop of Restaurant Oaxaca Mía, Teotitlán del Valle.
July 15, 2022 – Grasshopper on my rooftop terrace in Barrio de Jalatlaco.
August 27, 2022 – Calenda dancing its way along the streets of Barrio de Jalatlaco.
September 29, 2022 – Chiles en Nogada at Casa Oaxaca Reforma.
October 28, 2022 – Spiffed up La Hormiga food trailer at Conzatti Park.
November 6, 2022 – Murals at the entrance to Barrio de Xochimilco in Oaxaca.
November 6, 2022 – Ensalada Tehuana at La Biznaga on the corner of Magarita Maza and Benito Juárez (one of my favorite intersections).
Words can’t begin to express how grateful I am to you all for reading, commenting, and following my blog. You kept me going during the worst days of the pandemic and continue to inspire me. Thus, my 2023 wish for you is…
I hope you never lose your sense of wonder You get your fill to eat But always keep that hunger May you never take one single breath for granted God forbid love ever leave you empty handed I hope you still feel small When you stand by the ocean Whenever one door closes, I hope one more opens Promise me that you’ll give faith a fighting chance
And when you get the choice to sit it out or dance I hope you dance I hope you dance
I hope you never fear those mountains in the distance Never settle for the path of least resistance Living might mean taking chances But they’re worth taking Lovin’ might be a mistake But it’s worth making Don’t let some hell bent heart Leave you bitter When you come close to selling out Reconsider Give the heavens above More than just a passing glance
And when you get the choice to sit it out or dance I hope you dance (Time is a wheel in constant motion always) I hope you dance (Rolling us along) I hope you dance (Tell me who) I hope you dance (Wants to look back on their youth and wonder) (Where those years have gone)
I hope you still feel small When you stand by the ocean Whenever one door closes, I hope one more opens Promise me that you’ll give faith a fighting chance
And when you get the choice to sit it out or dance Dance I hope you dance I hope you dance (Time is a wheel in constant motion, always) I hope you dance (Rolling us along) I hope you dance (Tell me who) (Wants to look back on their youth and wonder) I hope you dance (Where those years have gone)
(Tell me who) I hope you dance (Wants to look back on their youth and wonder) (Where those years have gone)
It’s the night before Christmas and, for the first time in three years, I’m spending it with family in the San Francisco Bay Area. The Christmas tree lot has been visited, a Douglas Fir has been purchased (albeit half the size of years past due to extreme sticker shock), four generations of ornaments have been brought down from the attic, the tree decorated, and stockings hung on the mantle. I love being in my childhood home with family but must admit to missing the resumption of Noche de Rabanos on the zócalo of Oaxaca city and posadas in my Jalatlaco neighborhood.
However, all thoughts of festivities in Oaxaca will take a back door to hosting our Christmas morning tradition of mimosas and æbleskiver (Danish pancake balls) with family and friends, followed by a prime rib with Yorkshire pudding dinner served on my grandmother’s beautiful Lenox china and using my mother’s sterling silverware. And, warming my heart the most, the good natured teasing, laughing, and hugging shared with family and old friends.
However, no matter where I am, today is time for my blog’s Christmas Eve’s Pancho Claus tradition…
La Noche Before Christmas
’Twas the night before Christmas and all through the casa, Not a creature was stirring, My goodness! ¿Qué pasa? The children were all tucked away in their camas, The girls in their sleepers, the boys in piyamas.
The stockings were hung, with mucho cuidado, In hopes that old Santa would feel obligado, To bring all the children, both buenos y malos, Muchísimo candy, and other regalos.
When out in the yard there arose tanto grito, That I jumped to my feet like a scaredy-gatito. I ran to the window and looked out afuera, And who in the world do you think that it era?
Saint Nick on his sleigh in a big red sombrero, Came dashing toward me like a loco bombero. And pulling his sleigh, instead of venados, Were eight little burros venir-ing volados!
I watched as they came and this kindhearted hombre, Was whistling and shouting and calling por nombre: “¡Ay Pancho, ay Cisco, ay Chuy, ay Flaco!” “¡Ay Bella, Estrella, Chiquita y Paco!”
Then he jumped off his sleigh with his hands on his pecho, After landing on top of our very own techo. And struggling to squeeze down our old chimenea, He bounced off the hearth like a bowl of jalea.
Now huffing and puffing at last in our sala, With soot smeared all over his vestido de gala, He filled all the stockings with buenos regalos, For none of the niños had been muy malos.
Then chuckling aloud feeling muy contento, He turned in a flash and was gone like el viento. And I heard him exclaim, y es la verdad, “Merry Christmas to all, y ¡Feliz Navidad!”
***Inspired by the poem “A Visit From St. Nicholas” by Clement C. Moore, 1822, and by the original song and lyrics “Pancho Claus” by Lalo Guerrero, 1956 (with permission from the estate of Lalo Guerrero). Conceived of and written as “The Noche Before Christmas”, (date/author/copyright uncertain, c. 1956-2001?). This revision by Bill Stryker and Norma Verdugo Stryker, 2019 (Copyright Registration Number TXu002156234) was introduced on my last year’s La Noche Before Christmas blog.
For an added treat, the original 1956 “Pancho Claus” recording by Lalo Guerrero.
In Oaxaca, at any time of year, images of la Virgen de Guadalupe (Our Lady of Guadalupe) are never far away.
April 8, 2022 – Wall of a building on Calz. de la República, Oaxaca city.
March 24, 2022 – Wall inside Casa Ocho Regiones, Oaxaca city.
November 2, 2022 – Cemetery in Tlacolula de Matamoros.
February 3, 2022 – Guadalupe (on the right) at the restaurant Almú in San Martín Tilcajete.
However, today, December 12, is Día de la Virgen de Guadalupe and she and her image are being celebrated — including by the danzantes of Danza de la Pluma Promesa 2022-2024 in Teotitlán del Valle.
The legend of La Virgen de Guadalupe is known to every Mexican, every person of Mexican descent, and probably every foreigner who calls Mexico home. The image of this dark-skinned Virgin Mary who spoke Náhuatl is as imprinted on the national consciousness as she was on Juan Diego’s legendary tilma (cloak).
Every Día de Muertos, I love seeing the artistry of public ofrendas, feel honored being welcomed into the homes of friends and placing pan de muertos on their very personal ofrendas, and enjoy assembling my own ofrenda to departed loved ones. (Click on each image to see the details.)
Mitla – Ofrenda in the home of master weaver Arturo Hernandez Quero.
Mitla – Public ofrenda in the main plaza. Note the intricately decorated pan de muertos.
Teotitlán del Valle – Ofrenda of the weaver Pedro Montaño and cocinera Carina Santiago family in the Tierra Antigua restaurant and gallery.
Teotitlán del Valle – Ofrenda in the family home of weaver Zacarias Ruiz and Emilia Gonzalez.
Barrio de Jalatlaco – Private ofrenda open for public viewing at the corner of 5 de mayo and La Alianza.
Barrio de Jalatlaco – Family adding the finishing touches to their ofrenda. (They graciously gave me permission to take the photo.)
Casita Colibrí – My ofrenda in the daylight.
Casita Colibrí – My ofrenda at night awaiting the arrival of my departed.
I love the spicy and welcoming scents of cempasúchitl (marigolds), lacy flor de muerto from the Sierra Norte, pan de muertos, and incense of copal.
After a two year absence, thanks to the pandemic, Mexico’s Independence Day parade returned to the streets of Oaxaca’s capital. There were lots of drums that had me hearing snare drums in my sleep that night. But, note all the young women drummers! (Click on each image to enlarge.)
Being that this was a civic and military parade, there were the requisite scary guys and gals with guns and military hardware.
But there were also contingents of firefighters, federal disaster relief, and the Red Cross.
There were horses with stunningly dressed male and female riders.
And, there were the young riders… from toddlers to preteens. Did I mention there were lots of horses?
And, to end the parade, there was a patriotic float with beautiful young women, dressed in the green, white, and red of the Mexican flag, singing the national anthem, “Himno Nacional Mexicano.”