Yesterday, May 3, Mexico celebrated Día de la Santa Cruz (Day of the Holy Cross). Tradition calls for workers to erect crosses festooned with flowers at the highest point on construction sites. According to Mexconnect, in 1960, Pope John XXIII removed Día de la Santa Cruz from the liturgical calendar, but Mexico being Mexico and construction workers being construction workers, they ignored the Pope. Eventually, understanding the relationship of forces, he gave Mexico a special dispensation to celebrate on this day.
In the Zapotec village of Teotitlán del Valle, the custom is to climb their sacred mountain, el Picacho (Quie Guia Betz in Zapotec). The trail winds along the face of the mountain with almost no shade. It’s a challenge, but the vistas and community spirit at the top makes it well worth it. As I sit here (still) in el norte at the foot of Mt. Tamalpais, my sacred mountain — mountain of my childhood dreams, teen driving lessons, and place of retreat — I’m remembering the last time I climbed el Picacho…
Jean-Baptiste Racine’s quote, “Life is a comedy to those who think, a tragedy to those who feel” comes to mind when I reflect on 2023. Looking at the state of the world, I think many of us have spent the year vacillating between laughing and crying. However, on this New Year’s Eve, I prefer to remember the celebrations and places I experienced with family and friends, old and new. These are the times that nourish my soul and empower me to welcome 2024.
January 2023 – Mill Valley, CA. “Fork in the road.” I took the high road.
February 2023 – Oaxaca de Juárez. Archivo Histórico del Estado de Oaxaca.
March 2023 – San Agustín Etla, Oaxaca. “Seamus Heaney & Jan Hendrix en Yagul” exhibition at Centro de las Artes de San Agustín (CASA).
April 2023 – Oaxaca de Juárez. View from El Mirador Restaurante.
May 2023 – Oaxaca de Juárez. Cross on construction site in honor of Día de la Santa Cruz.
June 2023 – San Antonino Castillo Velasco, Oaxaca. Don José Garcia Antonío (aka, the blind potter).
July 2023 – Teotitlán del Valle, Oaxaca. Convite welcoming people to the festival honoring La Preciosa Sangre de Nuestro Señor Jesucristo.
August 2023 – La Mesa, CA. Sunset over the Pacific Ocean.
September 2023 – Oaxaca de Juárez. Escaramuzas riding in the Mexican Independence Day parade.
October 2023 – Oaxaca de Juárez. “Nelson” one of the Oaxaca Guerreros baseball team’s mascots.
November 2023 – Villa de Mitla, Oaxaca. Interior wall and ceiling in the “Church Group” at the Mitla archeological site.
December 2023 – Unión Zapata, Oaxaca. Feria de la Agrobiodiversidad en Oaxaca.
Many thanks to all the wonderful readers of my blog; I am constantly amazed and gratified you choose to stop by. On this New Year’s Eve, with a renewed appreciation for the small things that bring joy and give life meaning, I wish you all, ¡Feliz Año Nuevo!
All over Mexico on December 12th the country pauses to honor and celebrate the Virgin de Guadalupe, also known as the Queen of Mexico, Empress of America, and patron saint of Mexico. And, there is no place I would rather be on this day than in Teotitlán del Valle watching the Danza de la Pluma. The dance is a ritual reenactment of the battles between the Aztec and the Spanish conquistadors. In this Zapotec village, the dancers make a 3-year religious commitment to perform it at the four major religious festivals each year, including Guadalupe.
Members of the Danza de la Pluma Promesa 2022-2024 entering the atrium of Templo de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo.
Malinche, Moctezuma, Doña Marina, and danzantes.
Dancing under the watchful gaze of the sacred mountain, Cerro Picacho, Quie Guia Betz in Zapotec.
Danzantes “leaning in” during one of the 40+ dances of the Danza de la Pluma.
Moctezuma preparing to leap during one of the dances.
Members of the Danza de la Pluma Promesa 2022-2024 and their band.
A profound muchisimas gracias to the people of Teotitlán del Valle for always being so warm and welcoming.
There is a duality surrounding the celebration of Día de Muertos (Days of the Dead) in Oaxaca. While most every home and many public buildings and businesses construct altars with ofrendas brimming with flowers, candles, bread, chocolate, fruit, nuts, beverages, copal incense, and often photos of the departed, there is a distinct difference between the traditions of the more mestizo communities (Oaxaca city and the Etlas, for example) and those of the indigenous communities. The former often includes raucous comparsas (parades) called muerteadas with costumes, masks, painted faces, music, and “adult beverages.” According to the book, Day of the Dead: When Two Worlds Meet in Oaxaca, the muerteada allows the dead “to ‘occupy’ a living body, either a muerteada participant or an audience member, for a time, and therefore enjoy the entertainment directly rather than vicariously.”
However, in the indigenous villages these days are more solemn, filled with ritual, and are family oriented. I lean toward this more spiritual observance, so I escaped the craziness of the daily comparsas and drunken crowds in the city and went to stay in the Zapotec village of Teotitlán del Valle with my compadres (including comadre K) and to shop in Tlacolula for pan de muertos (bread), candles, and flowers to take to the ofrendas of families K and I have a relationship with in Teotitlán and San Pablo Villa de Mitla.
Tlacolula de Matamoros – Vendors of caña (sugar cane) used to create an arch over ofrendas.
Tlacolula de Matamoros – Ofrenda in the Templo de Santa María de la Asunción.
Tlacolula de Matamoros – Tapete de arena (sand painting) in Templo de Santa María de la Asunción.
San Pablo Villa de Mitla – Store front.
San Pablo Villa de Mitla – Ofrenda on home altar.
San Pablo Villa de Mitla – Detail from a public ofrenda.
Teotitlán del Valle – Ofrenda (offerings) on home altar.
Teotitlán del Valle – Tamales amarillo traditionally served on November 1.
Teotitlán del Valle – Panteón (cemetery) early evening on November 2.
While the Día de Muertos observances may differ, the bottom line in both city and pueblo is to provide a welcome worthy of both the living as hosts and the dead as honored guests.
Today, September 29, Mexico celebrates Día Nacional del Maíz — a day honoring the sacred maíz, symbol of the country and base food crop for most of the nation. In Oaxaca, one never has to look far to see corn and not just in fields. Corn is depicted in murals, featured in decorations, and (of course) on most every dining table, most every day.
Decoration outside a shop in Oaxaca city.
Mural at Mercado Sánchez Pascuas in Oaxaca city – “Without corn, there is no country.”
Mural in San Martín Tilcajete.
My favorite tamales from the milpa and hands of Emilia Gonzalez Martinez in Teotitlán del Valle.
In the words of cocinera tradicional Carina Santiago, at the beginning of the trailer (below) for the tremendous documentary, Los Guardianes del Maíz / The Keepers of Corn, “Corn was not domesticated by man, man was domesticated by corn.”
Trailer for Los Guardianes del Maíz / The Keepers of Corn documentary.
In Teotitlán del Valle, as part of their three year commitment, each member of the Danza de la Pluma group and, especially their family, is responsible for taking a turn hosting one of the four yearly festivals. It includes several days of serving traditional foods at sit-down breakfasts, lunches, and dinners to the danzantes, band, families, godparents, village officials, and church leaders. For Danza de la Pluma Promesa 2022-2024 danzante, Capitán 2, Hugo Santiago Jimenez’s family, this entailed months of preparation, three pigs and one bull meeting their maker, and days of cooking for over 300 people.
Grupo Danza de la Pluma Promesa 2022-2024 entering Casa Santiago.
Hot chocolate with traditional breads.Grinding chocolate on metates for atole de espuma.Atole de espuma waiting to be served.Hugo Santiago Jimenez and Félix Contreras Ruiz eating higadito.
The women’s table waiting for breakfast at Casa Santiago. Yes, there is a men’s table — separate tables is traditional.
Two days before winging my way to California, I had the privilege of attending the breakfast given by Hugo’s family at the family compound, Casa Santiago. After the meal, tables were folded, chairs were moved to surround the courtyard, danzantes took their places, the band began to play, and Hugo and his fellow Capitán, Félix Contreras Ruiz commenced to dance. Following their dance, the entire group performed and then, led by the band, they took to Teotitlán’s main street to process up to the atrium of the church where they would perform the Danza de la Pluma for almost eight hours.
Papel picado at the fiesta hosted by the family of Capitán 2, Hugo Santiago Jimenez, at Casa Santiago.
Some of the women behind the days of feasting.
Hugo Santiago Jimenez dances in the courtyard of Casa Santiago.
Family watching as Hugo Santiago Jimenez dances in the courtyard of Casa Santiago.
Band leads the way back to the Templo de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo.
Grupo Danza de la Pluma Promesa 2022-2024 processing back to the Templo de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo.
Muchisimas gracias to the people of Teotitlán del Valle and, especially, Hugo and his family for inviting me and for being so welcoming and gracious. And, to my readers, CORTV will be streaming tomorrow (July 24, 2023) evening’s Danza de la Pluma performance by Teotitlán’s danzantes at La Guelaguetza (5 PM Mexico; 4 PM PDT; 7 PM EDT).
This spring has brought some wild weather to Oaxaca. It began with the previously blogged about freak hailstorm in April and this past week, besides the usual late afternoon rain, the city experienced two more hailstorms — definitely not normal. They are very localized, with nearby towns remaining dry or receiving only a few showers.
Late yesterday afternoon, while the city continued to bask in sunshine, Teotitlán del Valle only 23 miles away was hit with its first violent hailstorm in many years. One minute all was calm as friends and I sat outside at Restaurante y Galería Tierra Antigua sipping mezcal. However, within minutes, the sky darkened, wind began to blow, and the heavens opened.
Almost without warning, hailstones, some the size of two peso coins, began pelting us. Needless to say, we grabbed our belongings and copitas of mezcal, as quickly as we could, and ran inside the restaurant. Once all the customers were safely inside, staff scrambled to close doors and windows. Then all watched as the force of Cocijo, the Zapotec god of rain and lightening, among other powerful forces, took center stage. It was an awesome 15+ minute performance! And, thankfully, save for some shredded foliage, there didn’t appear to be any damage.
In Oaxaca, at any time of year, images of la Virgen de Guadalupe (Our Lady of Guadalupe) are never far away.
April 8, 2022 – Wall of a building on Calz. de la República, Oaxaca city.
March 24, 2022 – Wall inside Casa Ocho Regiones, Oaxaca city.
November 2, 2022 – Cemetery in Tlacolula de Matamoros.
February 3, 2022 – Guadalupe (on the right) at the restaurant Almú in San Martín Tilcajete.
However, today, December 12, is Día de la Virgen de Guadalupe and she and her image are being celebrated — including by the danzantes of Danza de la Pluma Promesa 2022-2024 in Teotitlán del Valle.
The legend of La Virgen de Guadalupe is known to every Mexican, every person of Mexican descent, and probably every foreigner who calls Mexico home. The image of this dark-skinned Virgin Mary who spoke Náhuatl is as imprinted on the national consciousness as she was on Juan Diego’s legendary tilma (cloak).
Why I love Oaxaca, reason number 2,022 — music is heard everywhere and seemingly all the time. November 22 is Día de Santa Cecilia who, among other things, is the patron saint of musicians.
July 4, 2022 – Convite for the Preciosa Sangre de Cristo patronal festival in Teotitlán del Valle
July 23, 2022 – Guelaguetza Desfile Magesterial in Barrio de Jalatlaco
July 9, 2022 – Calenda celebrating the anniversary of La Mano Magica Galería in Oaxaca de Juárez
September 16, 2022 – Independence Day parade in Oaxaca de Juárez
August 25, 2022 – 35th birthday celebration in Barrio de Jalatlaco
August 20, 2022 – Strolling Tuna Band from URSE in Barrio de Jalatlaco
And, since this post honors musicians, how about a little music…
Traditional teponaxtles and chirimía played outside the panteón of San Antonino Castillo Velasco on Palm Sunday 2022 and brass band in Barrio de Jalatlaco, Oaxaca de Juárez on the 6th Friday of Lent, Viernes de Dolores 2022.
A big muchisimas gracias to musicians all over the world who provide the soundtrack of our lives.
Every Día de Muertos, I love seeing the artistry of public ofrendas, feel honored being welcomed into the homes of friends and placing pan de muertos on their very personal ofrendas, and enjoy assembling my own ofrenda to departed loved ones. (Click on each image to see the details.)
Mitla – Ofrenda in the home of master weaver Arturo Hernandez Quero.
Mitla – Public ofrenda in the main plaza. Note the intricately decorated pan de muertos.
Teotitlán del Valle – Ofrenda of the weaver Pedro Montaño and cocinera Carina Santiago family in the Tierra Antigua restaurant and gallery.
Teotitlán del Valle – Ofrenda in the family home of weaver Zacarias Ruiz and Emilia Gonzalez.
Barrio de Jalatlaco – Private ofrenda open for public viewing at the corner of 5 de mayo and La Alianza.
Barrio de Jalatlaco – Family adding the finishing touches to their ofrenda. (They graciously gave me permission to take the photo.)
Casita Colibrí – My ofrenda in the daylight.
Casita Colibrí – My ofrenda at night awaiting the arrival of my departed.
I love the spicy and welcoming scents of cempasúchitl (marigolds), lacy flor de muerto from the Sierra Norte, pan de muertos, and incense of copal.
For two days following the previously mentioned convite inviting the villagers of Teotitlán del Valle and guests to the festival honoring the Virgen del Rosario (Virgin of the Rosary), the Danza de la Pluma was performed in the atrium of the church. The Danza de la Pluma is a ritual reenactment of the battles between the Aztec and the Spanish conquistadors. There are thirty nine dances that tell the story. This is the Chotis de 4 Reyes– a Schottische performed by the four kings allied with Moctezuma.
As you can see, the dance steps are complex and made all the more challenging by the wind, which comes up most late afternoons this time of year, catching the massive penachos (the headpieces) worn by the dancers. By the way, this day was the actual feast day so they danced for seven hours. I don’t know how they do it!
A BFF since age twelve (don’t ask how long ago that was) and her husband are visiting. I took them to the weaving village of Teotitlán del Valle for the Santísima Virgen del Rosario festival — three days of witnessing the weft of Spanish conquistador Catholicism woven onto the warp of indigenous Zapotec culture. The public festivities began with Friday evening’s convite — a formal 45 minute procession, through the streets of the village, that serves as an invitation to the festival.
Canastas, with images of Mary and Jesus, waiting to be carried on the heads of unmarried young women and girls.
Young boys waiting with marmotas on tall carrizo poles.
Band #1 leads off the convite with a giant Viva la Virgen marmota.
At least 100 young unmarried women and girls, in traditional festival dress, carry canastas on their heads through the cobblestone streets.
Band #2 provides the music for the danzantes who follow.
Danza de la Pluma danzantes, with rattles shaking, march and dance their way through the streets.
In Teotitlán del Valle, the dancers of the Danza de la Pluma (Feather dance), make a solemn commitment to their faith and to their community to dance for three years at each of the four major annual religious festivals in their village. 2022 brings a new group and the festival honoring Preciosa Sangre de Nuestro Señor Jesucristo the first of their public performances for the residents of their village and visitors. They dance four times during this festival — two half days and two full (7 hours) days.
July 5, 2022…
La Malinche (Silvia Melissa González Pérez), Moctezuma (Emmanuel Ruiz Ruiz), and Doña Marina (Youshita Yamilet Vasquez Jim.)
Teotitlán de Valle, Danza de la Pluma promesa 2022-2024.
Danzantes dancing like puppets on a papel picado string.
Subalterno helping Rey 4, Luis Ángel Bazán Ruiz, with his penacho (headdress).
Subalterno taking a selfie with a “borrowed” phone.
July 6, 2022…
Capitán 2, Hugo Félix Santiago Jiménez.
Dancers of the Danza de la pluma promesa 2022-2024.
Moctezuma, Emmanuel Ruiz Ruiz.
Doña Marina, Youshita Yamilet Vasquez Jim.
La Malinche, Silvia Melissa González Pérez.
Danza de la pluma promesa 2022-2024, Teotitlán del Valle.
On the superficial level, the Danza relates the story of the Conquest — the Spanish, Moctezuma, his allies, and Malinche/Doña Maria. But, as is the genius of art, it reaches into our hearts and souls and explores and communicates the truths we know and feel.
In 2022, they will dance again for Natividad de la Virgen María in September, Rosario de la Virgen María in October, and the Fiesta a la Virgen de Guadalupe on December 12.
The annual convite at the beginning of July in Teotitlán del Valle has not only been an invitation to the village’s patronal festival honoring Preciosa Sangre de Cristo. For me, it has also served as an invitation to a month of non-stop celebrations and events — an excuse to set aside my daily routines and chores and, instead, revel in the color and culture on display in the streets of the city and the small towns dotting the valley of Oaxaca.
The church, Preciosa Sangre de Nuestro Señor Jesucristo, ready and waiting for the convite to begin.
Picacho, the sacred mountain envelops the community in its protective arms, as the canastas and unmarried young women and girls of the village take their place in line for the convite.
Boys clutching their mini marmotas patiently wait for the deafening sound of the cohetes (rockets) signaling the convite’s start.
Boys and their mini marmotas at the head of the convite — accompanied by a few dads, big brothers, uncles, and officials to keep them in line.
Two monos (new addition this year) and one of several gigantic marmotas follow close on the heels of the young boys.
Of course there is a band to set the tempo.
Arms raised, contingents of unmarried women and girls carry canastas decorated with religious imagery.
Most are dressed in the valley’s traditional enredos (wool wrap skirts) and colorfully embroidered white blusas from Oaxaca and Chiapas.
In this Zapotec villlage, the beauty of the faces and strength of their arms are a sight to behold — especially Beatriz (foreground), who is very dear to my heart.
A second band marks the approach of the danzantes.
Danzantes of the Danza de la Pluma Promesa 2022-2024 alternately march and dance their way along the cobblestone streets.
Picacho watches as the danzantes wend their way along the meandering streets of Teotitlán del Valle.
Villagers watch as danzantes Moctezuma, Malinche and Doña Marina, followed by another marmota, and town officials mark the last of the convite’s participants.
After almost an hour, the convite and its contingents returned to the church atrium. Their work, of extending an invitation to the festival, is finished — until next time!
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View From Casita Colibrí 