After two weeks of San Francisco Bay Area grey skies and cold atmospheric river weather, I’m dreaming Oaxaca winter blue sky dreams.
Singing Blue Skies along with Ella Fitzgerald.
Posts Tagged ‘papel picado’
Nothing but blue skies
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Music, Neighborhoods, Travel & Tourism, Weather, tagged Blue Skies (song), blue sky, chain link fence, Mexico, Moon, Oaxaca, papel picado, photos, popular travel destinations, roof dogs, winter weather on January 6, 2023| Leave a Comment »
Ofrendas there and here
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Neighborhoods, Travel & Tourism, tagged altars, Barrio de Jalatlaco, candles, cempasúchitl, Day of the Dead, Día de Muertos, flowers, images of the saints, marigolds, Mexico, Oaxaca, ofrendas, papel picado, photos, popular travel destinations, Teotitlán del Valle on November 10, 2022| 8 Comments »
Every Día de Muertos, I love seeing the artistry of public ofrendas, feel honored being welcomed into the homes of friends and placing pan de muertos on their very personal ofrendas, and enjoy assembling my own ofrenda to departed loved ones. (Click on each image to see the details.)
I love the spicy and welcoming scents of cempasúchitl (marigolds), lacy flor de muerto from the Sierra Norte, pan de muertos, and incense of copal.
Celebrating Dolores
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Barrio de Jalatlaco, Día de la Virgén de Dolores, Mexico, music video, Oaxaca, Our Lady of Sorrows, papel picado, photos, popular travel destinations on April 9, 2022| Leave a Comment »
After two years of quiet contemplation, the streets of Barrio de Jalatlaco were once again alive on the sixth Friday of Lent in celebration of La Virgén de Dolores (Our Lady of Sorrows).
Here in my new neighborhood even more purple and white papel picado was strung from building to building.
At the far end of Calle Hidalgo, an altar to La Virgén was lovingly assembled.
In the late afternoon, stalls were set up along Calle Hidalgo and lines of neighbors and visitors formed to sample the freely offered aguas (flavored waters), nieves (ices), and traditional arroz con leche y garbanzos (rice pudding with chickpeas).
Mass was celebrated in Templo de San Matías Jalatlaco and music filled the street.
A generous, albeit temporary, antidote to the sorrows of our current world. I feel incredibly fortunate to have landed in this amazing neighborhood!
Return of the Samaritan
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Creativity, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Barrio de Jalatlaco, bougainvillea, Día de la Samaritana, Good Samaritan day, Lent, Mexico, Oaxaca, papel picado, photos, popular travel destinations on March 27, 2022| 2 Comments »
After a two-year absence, she’s back! The Good Samaritan returned to the sidewalks, streets, and church atriums of Oaxaca. The fourth Friday of Lent is Día de la Samaritana, an “only in Oaxaca” celebration. It was with great joy, I ventured onto the streets of Barrio de Jalatlaco clutching my cup, from which to drink the aguas being offered.
The Day of the Good Samaritan was inspired by the Gospel of John story in the New Testament of the Bible where a tired and thirsty Jesus, on his way to Galilee, asks a Samaritan woman at Jacob’s Well in Sychar for some water. His request was highly unusual because, according to the Old Testament, “Jews regarded the Samaritans as foreigners and their attitude was often hostile.” The woman complied with his request and the rest is history.
Celebrating the Good Samaritan in Oaxaca began in the atriums of churches at the end of the 19th century. It is a popular and much-loved tradition that has expanded beyond Oaxaca’s church Samaritans to businesses, government offices, schools, and even private homes.
This year the first block of Calle Hidalgo was closed to traffic so agua stations could be set up in the middle of the street and naturally, as with most celebrations, there was music — this time a marimba provided the soundtrack.
As in pre-Covid years, people of all ages, from small children to grandparents, lined up at bougainvillea and palm decorated booths to sample agua de jamaica (hibiscus), horchata, chilacayote (squash), tamarindo, sandia (watermelon), tejate, and other creative and refreshing concoctions.
After an hour of wandering the streets of my neighborhood and sampling several aguas and even a cookie or two, I happily returned home with my heart full of love and gratitude for the traditions and people of Oaxaca.
Light and shadows
Posted in Buildings, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged light and shadows, Mexico, Nathaniel Hawthorne quote, Oaxaca, papel picado, photos, popular travel destinations, streets of Oaxacaa on January 13, 2022| 10 Comments »
It feels so good to feel good again and be able to go out and about!
Yesterday, with every step I took…
I gathered energy from the light and shadows and the sound of papel picado fluttering above.
“Time flies over us, but leaves its shadow behind.” —Nathaniel Hawthorne
Village holiday decor
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged creche, Mexico, Nacimiento de navidad, Nativity scenes, Oaxaca, papel picado, photos, popular travel destinations, San Pablo Villa de Mitla, Teotitlán del Valle, Tlacolula de Matamoros, umbrellas on December 20, 2021| 6 Comments »
No sooner had I returned to Oaxaca than I left again. However, this time it was to spend only a few days in Teotitlán del Valle for Guadalupe’s feast day and the celebration ending the three year commitment by the dancers of the Danza de la Pluma Promesa 2019-2021. (More about that in a later post.) In addition, after almost a two year absence, I also managed to spend a few hours in Tlacolula de Matamoros and San Pablo Villa de Mitla.
My friend K and I took local buses and I am happy to report everyone on the buses was masked and we even had to disembark at a checkpoint before entering Mitla. Once we and the interior of the bus were disinfected, we reboarded and headed into the town.
Altars and offerings in Jalatlaco
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Religion, tagged altars, Barrio de Jalatlaco, calacas, calaveras, candles, catrinas and catrins, cempasúchitl, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Día de Muertos, fruit, Galería Shadai, Los Pilares Hotel and Restaurant - Flowers, marigolds, Oaxaca, ofrendas, pan de muertos, papel picado, photos, popular travel destinations, skeletons, skulls, sugar skulls on November 1, 2021| 16 Comments »
Day of the Dead altars and their offerings to the departed vary from region to region and, within those regions, from family to family. Ofrendas (offerings) are an integral part of Día de Muertos. They are a beacon to the departed, an ephemeral work of art, and the sum of their lovingly chosen parts. As you can see from the photos below from several in Barrio de Jalatlaco, even on public display, they are intensely personal and creative.
Galería Shadai – Flowers, papel picado, candles, incense, pan de muertos, fruit, nuts, a casserole, and beverages.
And, there is a catrina tapete de arena (sand carpet) made of sand, beans, and flowers.
However, the only photo is of Maestro Francisco Toledo placed on a side pedestal.
Los Pilares Hotel and Restaurant – Flowers, papel picado, catrinas and catrins, candles, fruit, pan de muertos, and beverages.
And, there is a beautiful floral arch.
No photos of loved ones, but it’s a love story to the state of Oaxaca.
Family ofrenda – 5 de mayo at the corner of La Alianza. Family photos of the departed take center stage with papel picado, cempasúchitl (marigolds), and skeletons playing supporting roles.
Then there are those magnificent floral candles like one sees in Teotitlán del Valle.
And, lest the departed can’t find their way home in the greatly expanded city, an old photo and skeletons await outside the altar alcove to show the way.
Last but not least, my altar and offerings. It was a creative challenge to set up in the new Casita Colibrí.
It’s smaller than previous years, but I have figured out a way to make it bigger and better next year.
A yellow (color of death in pre-hispanic southern Mexico) tablecloth; papel picado (cut tissue paper) signifying the union between life and death; cempasúchitl (marigolds) and flor de muerto from the Sierra Norte, their scent to guide the spirits; and cresta de gallo (cockscomb) to symbolize mourning. There is salt to make sure the souls stay pure and chocolate, peanuts, pecans, apples, mandarin oranges, and pan de muertos (Day of the Dead bread) to nourish them. The sweet smell of copal incense and its smoke help guide my loved ones to the fiesta I have prepared for them. There is water to quench their thirst, as they travel between worlds, not to mention mezcal and cervesa (beer). And, there are the tangible remembrances of my departed — photos and some of their favorite things.
With candles lit and incense burning, I’m loving it and hoping my very dearly departed will find it warm, nourishing, and welcoming.
Jalatlaco prepares for her muertos
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Barrio de Jalatlaco, cempasúchitl, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Día de Muertos, marigolds, Mexico, Muertos decorations, Oaxaca, papel picado, photos, skeletons, skulls on October 31, 2021| 19 Comments »
My new neighborhood, Barrio de Jalatlaco, has a long history — one that predates the arrival of the Spanish. Community spirit and traditions are strong, including making her departed feel welcome during Día de Muertos. Thus the bright orange and spicy scent of the flor de muerto, cempasúchitl (flower of the dead, marigolds) are everywhere.
Papel picado, in seasonal colors, ripple above the streets and cast fluttering shadows.
Floral arches welcome the living and the departed.
And skeletons are seen hanging out in doorways, windows, and sidewalks.
Tomorrow, altars and their offerings.
Fluttering in the wind
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Cuaresma decorations, cut paper, decorations, Jardín Sócrates, Jorge Prado (artist), Mexico, Oaxaca, papel picado, photos, popular travel destinations, shadows, stencil, urban art, wall art on March 16, 2021| Leave a Comment »
Looking up never ceases to make me smile, especially when papel picado (cut paper) garlands flutter in the breeze — images with holiday themes, celebrating rites of passage, and advertising local products.
They are even imprinted on walls.
We are in the midst of Cuaresma (Lent), though pandemic restrictions have canceled most public celebrations, we have the Liturgical colors of violet and white papel picado to remind us.
Even the neverías of Jardín Sócrates have gotten into the act.
Sky blue
Posted in Flora, Gardens, Science & Nature, Travel & Tourism, tagged blue sky, Clavellina, flowering trees, jacaranda, Mexico, Oaxaca, palm trees, Palo de rosas, papel picado, photos, popular travel destinations, Primavera amarilla, Primavera rosa, Shaving Brush Tree, trees on March 2, 2021| 14 Comments »
It is the time of year when the temperatures begin to reach 90º F and the Primavera amarillas, Jacarandas, Clavellinas, and Palo de rosas trees bloom.
It’s almost spring and Oaxaca has entered her sky blue period.
Invitation to my departed
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged altars, calaveritas, Catrinas, cempasuchil, coronavirus fallout, COVID-19 fallout, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Día de Muertos, flowers, incense, marigolds, Mexico, Oaxaca, ofrenda, papel picado, photos on October 30, 2020| 8 Comments »
These are strange days leading up to our departed coming to call while we are living in the time of Covid-19. With public activities canceled, thus no nightly calendas (parades) filling the streets and our ears, and fewer tourists, Oaxaca is experiencing more peace and tranquility this Day of the Dead season — albeit laced with a touch of melancholy and anxiety.
Masked and shielded, I braved the mostly local crowds south of the zócalo, to shop for cempasuchil (marigolds), cresta de gallo (cockscomb), apples, mandarin oranges, peanuts and pecans, chocolate, and pan de muertos (Day of the Dead bread) — but it wasn’t nearly as much fun as years past.
However, the joy returned when I unwrapped photographs of my parents, grandparents, and other loved ones; selected some of their favorite things to put on my ofrenda; placed the fruit, nuts, bread, and chocolate among the photos; positioned candles, flowers, and incense; and poured my departed a copita (little cup) of water and another of mezcal — all to beckon, entertain, and sustain them during their brief stay.
I’m looking forward to a more personal and reflective Día de Muertos this year.
Lonely and poignant Palm Sunday
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Creativity, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged churches, Domingo de Ramos, La catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, Mexico, Oaxaca, palm fronds, Palm Sunday, papel picado, photos, popular travel destinations, San Antonino Castillo Velasco, San Salvador image, Templo de San Matías Jalatlaco, Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán on April 5, 2020| 2 Comments »
It’s Domingo de Ramos and in pre-COVID-19 times, from my terrace I would hear an outdoor morning mass being said in the atrium of the Basilica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad. And then, for the past eight years, blogger buddy Chris and I would drive to San Antonino Castillo Velasco for one of the most magical days of the year. However, all was silent this Palm Sunday. So, donning my mask, I went for early Sunday morning walk with my neighbor K. Lonely and poignant scenes met us everywhere our wanderings took us.
Lonely palm fronds in window of Hospital Ángel Vasconcelos on Av. José María Morelos
Doors of Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción were shuttered.
The doors of Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán were open, but nary a soul was in sight.
A mass was being said at Templo de San Matías Jalatlaco, but the doors were shut tight.
However, no sight we saw this morning was as moving as this one posted to the San Antonino Castillo Velasco Facebook page.
San Salvador bereft of his usual bounty stands alone in the atrium of the church in San Antonino Castillo Velasco.
To see San Salvador in his usual Domingo de Ramos splendor and the village procession that takes him, laden with donated fruits, vegetables, herbs, and bread, from the panteón to the church, click HERE.
Love and Friendship
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged balloons, Día del Amor y la Amistad, hearts, Mexico, papel picado, photos, Valentine's Day on February 13, 2019| Leave a Comment »
The signs of Valentine’s Day are everywhere…
Ready for the fiesta on the patio of my apartment complex.
Tin hearts on display at the Museo Estatal de Arte Popular de Oaxaca (MEAPO) shop in San San Bartolo Coyotepec.
While it may be a holiday imported from Europe, Mexico embraces the celebration.
Dining room ceiling of Los Huamuches, between Santo Tomás Jalieza and San Martín Tilcajete.
Balloons on the zócalo in Oaxaca de Juárez.
Wishing you ¡Feliz Día del Amor y la Amistad!
Bougainvillea on a cross at the palenque of Faustino García Vásquez, San Baltazar Chichicápam.
Ready for the fiesta on the patio of my apartment complex.
Happy Day of Love and Friendship to all!
Offerings to my departed
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged altars, calaveritas, Catrinas, cempasuchitl, Día de los Muertos, flowers, incense, marigolds, Mexico, Oaxaca, ofrenda, papel picado, photographs, photos, sugar skulls, veruche on October 31, 2018| 17 Comments »
As my grandchildren finished their trick or treating up in el norte, I put the final touches on my Día de los Muertos ofrenda (offering) here in Oaxaca.
A yellow (the color of death in pre-hispanic southern Mexico) cloth covers two chests; papel picado (cut tissue paper), signifying the union between life and death, has been added, along with the traditional flowers of Day of the Dead — cempasúchil and veruche (domesticated and wild marigolds), their scent to guide the spirits, and cockscomb to symbolize mourning. Visitors brought the sunflower and, since my grandfather, father, and father-in-law were avid gardeners, it is for them!
There is salt to make sure the souls stay pure and chocolate, peanuts, pecans, apples, mandarin oranges, and pan de muertos (Day of the Dead bread) to nourish them.
The sweet smell of copal incense and its smoke help guide my loved ones to the feast I have prepared. And, there is water to quench their thirst, as they travel between worlds, not to mention mezcal and cervesa (beer).
But, most important of all, there are the tangible remembrances of my departed — photos and some of their favorite things.
Revolutionary catrina and catrin for my revolutionary comadre and compadre, Sylvia and Nat.
Yarn and a crochet hook for my dear grandmother who many of the abuelas (grandmothers) in Oaxaca remind me of — always wearing an apron, never wearing pants, and incredibly adept with crochet and embroidery thread. And, for my adored grandfather, a San Francisco Giants baseball cap. My grandparents moved next door at the same time the Giants moved from New York to San Francisco and grandpa and I listened to many games together on his transistor radio, as I helped him in the garden.
There are other cherished friends and relatives on my altar, but pride of place goes to my parents. For my father, who was killed when I was only two and a half, there is beer (below the above photo) — alas Victoria not Burgermeister! And for my mother, a fan to cool herself as she dances and a bottle of port to sip before she sleeps.
It’s been a two-day labor of love as I wanted everything to be perfect for my difutos (departed) to find their way and feel welcome in my Oaxaca home.
My offering to the departed
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Catrinas, Día de los Muertos, Día de Muertos, fruit, incense, Mexico, Oaxaca, ofrenda, papel picado, photographs, photos on November 1, 2016| 8 Comments »
Poco a poco (little by little) my ofrenda has been constructed and composed. A yellow (the color of death in prehispanic southern Mexico) cloth covers two chests and papel picado, signifying the union between life and death, has been added.
Photos of departed loved ones have been placed, along with apples, oranges, and nuts to nourish the difuntos, sal to make sure the souls stay pure, cempasúchitl and veruche (domesticated and wild marigolds) — their scent to guide the spirits, cockscomb to symbolize mourning, the previously mentioned flor de muerto from the mountains above Díaz Ordaz, and copal incense to draw the spirits home and ward off evil.
Sugar skulls, catrinas, and a few of the favorite things of my parents, grandparents, and in-laws have also been added. Lest the spirits become thirsty, there is water, mezcal, cervesa, and a bottle of port (for my mom) to drink.
Last night, the candles and copal incense were lit to guide my loved ones to my Oaxaca home and, just to make sure, I sprinkled some cempasúchitl petals outside to help them find their way.
It may not be the house where they lived, but I’m hoping they too believe, When you live in your heart, you are always home.
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