Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Christmas, Mexico, Navidad, Night of the Radishes, Noche de Rabanos, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on December 22, 2017| 6 Comments »
The 120th edition of the “only in Oaxaca” Noche de Rábanos is coming. Tomorrow (December 23) the zócalo will be filled with radishes carved into religious, cultural, and fantastical creations.
Scenes from last year…
And, it’s not just a night of radishes, there will also be flor inmortal (a type of dried flower) and totomoxtle (corn husk) artisan creations on display and competing for prizes. Not to be missed!
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged baby Jesus, Christmas, Christmas lights, Christmas tree, decorations, flor inmortal, Mexico, Navidad, Oaxaca, photographs, photos on December 7, 2017| 1 Comment »
Artificial Christmas tree vying for top honors with an Indian laurel on the Alameda.
Baby Jesús wearing his flor inmortal diapers in the courtyard between Del Maguey and Los Baúles de Juana Cata.
“Star of wonder, star of light” above Amate Books on the Alcalá.
And, yes, the sky really was that blue today.
Posted in Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Árbol de Navidad, Christmas, Christmas tree, Mexico, Navidad, photographs, photos on December 22, 2016| Leave a Comment »
This year, a Christmas tree grows in Oaxaca. Well, not a real, living tree. This one, almost 3-stories tall, was constructed over several days alongside the Cathedral.
Adding the green panels to the frame.
Hanging the lights.
So far, so good!
All dressed up and ready to go.
Lights on; crowds assembled!
What can I say? Nacimientos (Nativity scenes) are traditional here; Christmas trees are not. However, despite what we like to think, traditions are not static, they evolve. People come and go across oceans and across borders and they bring back what captures their fancy. All I know is that the city is alive with the sound of music, energy, and lightness of being.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Christmas, Christmas traditions, inflatable Santa Claus, Mexico, Navidad, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on December 27, 2015| 1 Comment »
This is how I feel today…
Actually, I took this a few weeks ago on Matamoros (at Tinoco y Palacios) with the intention of writing a blog post lamenting Christmas traditions (Christmas trees, Santa Claus, consumerism, etc.) migrating down from el norte. But, I think I’ll just let the image speak for itself.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, tagged 'Twas the Night Before Christmas, “Lalo” Guerrero, Christmas, Christmas decorations, Christmas Eve, Christmas ornaments, Christmas tree, Eduardo Guerrero, Ernie Villarreal, Mexico, Nacimiento de navidad, Navidad, Nochebuena, Oaxaca, Pancho Claus, poem on December 24, 2015| 6 Comments »
‘Tis Christmas Eve in Nueva York and, while we may be dreaming of a white Christmas, there is not a snowflake in sight. However, the stockings are hung by the chimney with care, a plate of Christmas cookies is awaiting a hungry Santa Claus, and tonight I will read Pancho Claus to my grandson. It will be his first time hearing Ernie Villarreal’s version of Pancho Claus by Chicano music legend, Eduardo “Lalo” Guerrero. Hopefully, he will learn a few more words in Spanish and, whether I’m visiting or not, it will become a family tradition.
Pancho Claus
‘Twas the night before Christmas and all through la casa
Not a creature was stirring, Caramba! ¿Que pasa?
Los ninos were all tucked away in their camas,
Some in vestidos and some in pajamas.
While Mama worked late in her little cocina,
El viejo was down at the corner cantina.
The stockings were hanging con mucho cuidado,
In hopes that St. Nicholas would feel obligado
To bring all the children, both buenos y malos,
A Nice batch of dulces and other regalos.
Outside in the yard, there arouse such a grito,
That I jumped to my feet, like a frightened cabrito.
I went to the window and looked out afuera,
And who in the world, do you think que era?
Saint Nick in a sleigh and a big red sombrero
Came dashing along like a crazy bombero!
And pulling his sleigh instead of venados,
Were eight little burros approaching volados.
I watched as they came, and this little hombre
Was shouting and whistling and calling by nombre.
¡Ay, Pancho! ¡Ay, Pepe! ¡Ay, Cuca! ¡Ay, Beto!
¡Ay, Chato! ¡¡Ay, Chopo! ¡Maruca and ¡Nieto!
Then standing erect with his hand on his pecho
He flew to the top of our very own techo.
With his round little belly like a bowl of jalea,
He struggled to squeeze down our old chimenea.
Then huffing and puffing, at last in our sala,
With soot smeared all over his red suit de gala.
He filled the stockings with lovely regalos,
For none of the children had been very malos.
Then chuckling aloud and seeming contento,
He turned like a flash and was gone like the viento.
And I heard him exclaim and this is VERDAD,
Merry Christmas to all, And to All ¡Feliz Navidad!
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged 'Twas the Night Before Christmas, “Lalo” Guerrero, Christmas, Christmas decorations, Christmas Eve, Christmas tree, Eduardo Guerrero, Mexico, Nacimiento de navidad, Navidad, Nochebuena, Oaxaca, Pancho Claus, Pancho Claus ‘Twas the night before Christmas, photographs, photos, piñata, poem, popular travel destinations on December 24, 2014| 6 Comments »
It’s a quiet Nochebuena (Christmas Eve) in my childhood home here in Mill Valley. There are no sparklers to wave, no nacimiento stands in the town plaza, and no posadas are likely to knock on the front door tonight. However, there is a fire burning in the fireplace, stockings hang from the mantle, and a Douglas Fir is standing in the living room wearing four generations of family Christmas treasures.
And, visions from Ernie Villarreal’s version of Pancho Claus, by Chicano music legend, Eduardo “Lalo” Guerrero, dance in my head.
Pancho Claus
‘Twas the night before Christmas and all through la casa
Not a creature was stirring, Caramba! ¿Que pasa?
Los ninos were all tucked away in their camas,
Some in vestidos and some in pajamas.
While Mama worked late in her little cocina,
El viejo was down at the corner cantina.
The stockings were hanging con mucho cuidado,
In hopes that St. Nicholas would feel obligado
To bring all the children, both buenos y malos,
A Nice batch of dulces and other regalos.
Outside in the yard, there arouse such a grito,
That I jumped to my feet, like a frightened cabrito.
I went to the window and looked out afuera,
And who in the world, do you think que era?
Saint Nick in a sleigh and a big red sombrero
Came dashing along like a crazy bombero!
And pulling his sleigh instead of venados,
Were eight little burros approaching volados.
I watched as they came, and this little hombre
Was shouting and whistling and calling by nombre.
¡Ay, Pancho! ¡Ay, Pepe! ¡Ay, Cuca! ¡Ay, Beto!
¡Ay, Chato! ¡¡Ay, Chopo! ¡Maruca and ¡Nieto!
Then standing erect with his hand on his pecho
He flew to the top of our very own techo.
With his round little belly like a bowl of jalea,
He struggled to squeeze down our old chimenea.
Then huffing and puffing, at last in our sala,
With soot smeared all over his red suit de gala.
He filled the stockings with lovely regalos,
For none of the children had been very malos.
Then chuckling aloud and seeming contento,
He turned like a flash and was gone like the viento.
And I heard him exclaim and this is VERDAD,
Merry Christmas to all, And to All ¡Feliz Navidad!
Carlsberg and Stella Artois… What is it about beer and Christmas?
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged carving, Christmas, Mexico, Night of the Radishes, Noche de Rabanos, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, radishes on December 20, 2014| 11 Comments »
Noche de Rabanos is moving!
According to an article in yesterday’s Noticias, the continued occupation of the zócalo by the teachers and the ambulantes has forced this year’s 117th annual festival to relocate. Ahhh… only in Oaxaca!
On December 23, the 130 participants and their carved radishes, totomoxtle figures, and flor inmortal scenes will be found on the Andador Turístico (aka,Macedonio Alcalá).
Hotels are expecting an 85% occupancy rate, but the business owners along the Alcalá are concerned the Rabanos crowds will block entrances to their shops. However, I’m wondering if it might improve the viewing traffic flow. If you are in Oaxaca, please let me know — I headed north to the rain and snow of el norte to spend the holidays with mi familia.
Photos from last year’s Noche de Rabanos.
Update (as of Dec. 21): Ambulantes, though not teachers, have cleared out and Rabanos WILL be held on the zócalo.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Holidays, Parks & Plazas, People, Restaurants, Travel & Tourism, tagged artisans, Café Café, Christmas, dried corn husks, Elpidio Adrián González López, Mercado Antiguo en la Plaza de las Armas 1885, Mexico, Night of the Radishes, Noche de Rabanos, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Totomoxtle on December 27, 2013| Leave a Comment »
Despite of the name, Noche de Rábanos isn’t just about carving radishes. The creativity and ingenuity of the gardeners and artisans of Oaxaca in several other categories are also on display — Flor Inmortal (dried flowers), Totomoxtle (dried corn husks) Natural, and Totomoxtle Decorated, as well as two Children’s categories.
First place in the Totomoxtle Natural category went to Elpidio Adrián González López and his amazing creation, Mercado Antiguo en la Plaza de las Armas 1885.
If you missed it December 23 on the zócalo, or want to see it up close and personal, head over to CaféCafé, on the corner of Porfirio Díaz and M. Bravo.
It will be on display until January 6, 2014.
h/t Jane & Ken
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Holidays, Parks & Plazas, People, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged 'Twas the Night Before Christmas, “Lalo” Guerrero, Christmas, Christmas Eve, Eduardo Guerrero, Mexico, Navidad, Noche Buena, Oaxaca, Pancho Claus, photographs, photos, poem, popular travel destinations, ritual procession on December 25, 2013| 8 Comments »
Noche Buena (Christmas Eve) in Oaxaca means posadas from churches around the city converge on the zócalo. Flatbed trucks carrying Jesus, Mary, and Josephs; fireworks, pinwheels, and sparklers; brass bands; China Oaxaqueña folkloric dancers; and the faithful carrying candles arrive to circle the zócalo again and again and again. Spectators, young and old wave sparklers, take photos, and crack powder or confetti filled eggs on each others heads — and it’s quite a scene!
And, in what has become a Christmas Eve tradition (it was still Christmas Eve when I began this post) on my blog, Ernie Villarreal’s version of the song, Pancho Claus, by Chicano music legend, Eduardo “Lalo” Guerrero.
Pancho Claus
‘Twas the night before Christmas and all through la casa
Not a creature was stirring, Caramba! ¿Que pasa?
Los ninos were all tucked away in their camas,
Some in vestidos and some in pajamas.
While Mama worked late in her little cocina,
El viejo was down at the corner cantina.
The stockings were hanging con mucho cuidado,
In hopes that St. Nicholas would feel obligado
To bring all the children, both buenos y malos,
A Nice batch of dulces and other regalos.
Outside in the yard, there arouse such a grito,
That I jumped to my feet, like a frightened cabrito.
I went to the window and looked out afuera,
And who in the world, do you think que era?
Saint Nick in a sleigh and a big red sombrero
Came dashing along like a crazy bombero!
And pulling his sleigh instead of venados,
Were eight little burros approaching volados.
I watched as they came, and this little hombre
Was shouting and whistling and calling by nombre.
¡Ay, Pancho! ¡Ay, Pepe! ¡Ay, Cuca! ¡Ay, Beto!
¡Ay, Chato! ¡¡Ay, Chopo! ¡Maruca and ¡Nieto!
Then standing erect with his hand on his pecho
He flew to the top of our very own techo.
With his round little belly like a bowl of jalea,
He struggled to squeeze down our old chimenea.
Then huffing and puffing, at last in our sala,
With soot smeared all over his red suit de gala.
He filled the stockings with lovely regalos,
For none of the children had been very malos.
Then chuckling aloud and seeming contento,
He turned like a flash and was gone like the viento.
And I heard him exclaim and this is VERDAD,
Merry Christmas to all, And to All ¡Feliz Navidad!
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged artisans, carving, Christmas, Mexico, Night of the Radishes, Noche de Rabanos, Oaxaca, photographs, photos on December 23, 2013| Leave a Comment »
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Holidays, Parks & Plazas, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged Adrián Antonio Flores Peña, artisans, carving, Christmas, Mexico, Night of the Radishes, Noche de Rabanos, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Quebrantahueso on December 23, 2013| 2 Comments »
This morning I walked down to the zócalo to watch artists at work — it’s Noche de Rábanos (Night of the Radishes). This December 23 “only in Oaxaca” tradition has been a mainstay of the holiday season since 1897. I know, who would have thought radishes could elicit such creativity? But, they definitely do! Here is Adrián Antonio Flores Peña working on his piece, Quebrantahueso (bearded vulture).
More to come… I just have to weed through the 300+ other photos I took!
UPDATE: Adrián Antonio Flores Peña won first place in the “Free” (as opposed to “Traditional”) category.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged candles, Christmas, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, posadas, ritual procession, Teotitlán del Valle, velas labradas on December 22, 2013| 10 Comments »
Last night, just about this time, a posada through the calles of Teotitlán del Valle was arriving at the home where Mary and Joseph would find shelter for the night. Each night, images of Mary and Joseph wander the streets looking for refuge. The posadas began on December 15 and will last through December 24, la última posada, and the arrival of Jesus.
Women and men arrive at the home where Mary and Joseph had spent the previous night.
Prayers are said in front of the images of Mary and Joseph and then women line up on one side and men on the other, as the procession begins.
There is a band. Actually, there are two bands. The first, at the front of the procession, plays a dirge-like tune and the second, back near the statues of Mary and Joseph, plays marching music (think, John Philip Sousa).
Naturally, there are fireworks. These are the pyrotechnic guys, waiting to lead the parade.
Mary and Joseph en route. Please note, they are carried by young, and from what I was told, unmarried women.
Primarily lit by elaborate beeswax velas labradas (carved candles), the procession wound its way through Teotitlán del Valle.
Through the uneven cobblestone streets, young and old walked for over two hours. It was massive and it seemed as if the entire village was either in the parade or watching.
Eventually, we arrived at the home where Mary and Joseph would be given refuge for this night. There was no mistaking this was the destination — it was lit up like a Christmas tree.
Inside, there was more religious ritual, but outside, there were sparklers!
(ps) If anyone has any tips for taking photos of nighttime processions of people under challenging lighting conditions, please feel free to offer your suggestions. Muchisimas gracias.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Music, Parks & Plazas, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged 'Twas the Night Before Christmas, “Lalo” Guerrero, Christmas, Eduardo Guerrero, Mexico, Navidad, Night of the Radishes, Noche de Rabanos, Oaxaca, Pancho Claus, poem on December 24, 2012| 3 Comments »
The rabanos, danzantes, and I wish a happy holidays to all…
Photos from Noche de Rabanos. And, my rapidly becoming a Christmas Eve blog tradition…
Pancho Claus
‘Twas the night before Christmas and all through la casa
Not a creature was stirring, Caramba! ¿Que pasa?
Los ninos were all tucked away in their camas,
Some in vestidos and some in pajamas.
While Mama worked late in her little cocina,
El viejo was down at the corner cantina.
The stockings were hanging con mucho cuidado,
In hopes that St. Nicholas would feel obligado
To bring all the children, both buenos y malos,
A Nice batch of dulces and other regalos.
Outside in the yard, there arouse such a grito,
That I jumped to my feet, like a frightened cabrito.
I went to the window and looked out afuera,
And who in the world, do you think que era?
Saint Nick in a sleigh and a big red sombrero
Came dashing along like a crazy bombero!
And pulling his sleigh instead of venados,
Were eight little burros approaching volados.
I watched as they came, and this little hombre
Was shouting and whistling and calling by nombre.
¡Ay, Pancho! ¡Ay, Pepe! ¡Ay, Cuca! ¡Ay, Beto!
¡Ay, Chato! ¡¡Ay, Chopo! ¡Maruca and ¡Nieto!
Then standing erect with his hand on his pecho
He flew to the top of our very own techo.
With his round little belly like a bowl of jalea,
He struggled to squeeze down our old chimenea.
Then huffing and puffing, at last in our sala,
With soot smeared all over his red suit de gala.
He filled the stockings with lovely regalos,
For none of the children had been very malos.
Then chuckling aloud and seeming contento,
He turned like a flash and was gone like the viento.
And I heard him exclaim and this is VERDAD,
Merry Christmas to all, And to All ¡Feliz Navidad!
Ernie Villarreal’s version of the song, Pancho Claus, by Chicano music legend, Eduardo “Lalo” Guerrero.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Parks & Plazas, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Christmas, creche, Mexico, Nacimiento de navidad, Nativity scenes, Navidad, Oaxaca, photographs, photos on December 22, 2012| 6 Comments »
Although Christmas trees are making inroads, in Oaxaca it is the nacimiento de navidad (nativity scene) that is the omnipresent symbol of Christmas. Unique and personal, they are seen everywhere; the zócalo, homes, hotel lobbies, store windows, and every kind of business you can think of!
And, yes, this “spiritual but not religious” gringa couldn’t resist a miniature woven straw one of her own. It’s a work of art!
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Christmas, Christmas decorations, Christmas trees, Mexico, Navidad, Oaxaca, Virgen de Juquila on December 7, 2012| 7 Comments »
For the first time since I began nesting in my cozy little rooftop casita, I’m not heading north for Christmas. I admit to having decidedly mixed feelings; my family and most of my closest friends are up in El Norte and I’m already missing them and the traditions we have created. However, this year I get to share the holidays with new friends, create new traditions, and experience festivities heretofore unimagined — Noche de Rabanos (Night of the Radishes)? I can’t wait!
In the meantime, to bring a little of the familiar into the mix, I bought a Christmas tree. Not a real one (sad face) and not one of those seen below that my local supermarket has had for sale for several weeks. Mine is decidedly smaller, measuring exactly two feet, and…
too small to hang my favorite Mexican ornaments on its un-scented, wiry but green(!) boughs. These colorful and wonderfully bouncy decorations will be purchased and a place for them in and around Casita Colibrí will be found.
Trimming my tree will present some challenges. No cartons of ornaments, lovingly collected and stored by four generations of the family, to bring down from the attic. And, as I’ve said, the tree is tiny. I’m thinking… digging into my earring collection might be a good place to start.
However, these earrings will have to wait to adorn the tree until after I wear them tomorrow. December 8 is the celebration of the Virgen de Juquila — the first of three Vírgenes honored by Oaxaqueños in December. There will be parades. There will be fireworks. There will be wildly clanging church bells. And, there will be an abundance of magic this month, of this I have no doubt!
Mexican Peso Converter
View From Casita Colibrí 