Under the sun dappled light filtering through the 500 year old ahuehuete trees, there was stillness and peace.
November 2, 2022 in the panteón of Tlacolula de Matamoros.
Posts Tagged ‘panteón’
Still life in the panteón
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged cemetery, cempasúchitl, Day of the Dead, Día de Muertos, flowers, fruit, marigolds, Mexico, Oaxaca, panteón, photos, popular travel destinations, Tlacolula de Matamoros on November 17, 2022| 5 Comments »
Creating with love for the departed
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged celebrations, cemetery, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Día de Muertos, Fernando Moctezuma Valencia García, flowers, Mexico, Oaxaca, panteón, San Antonino Castillo Velasco, sculptures on November 3, 2019| 2 Comments »
Today, November 3, blogger buddy Chris and I made our annual pilgrimage to experience the flowers and families of the panteón in San Antonino Castillo Velasco. We have been doing this for many years and are always surprised and delighted by the creativity of the living, as they decorate the graves of their departed. This year was no exception — especially the sculptures on two of the graves. (Click on image to enlarge.)
Below, the plaque on the simple wooden cross read, 1994 – 2018 Fernando Moctezuma Valencia García “Tachuma” Te amoremos por siempre, tu familia (We love you forever, your family). A little internet research revealed that the young Fernando was already a talented ceramicist.
The hands of a loved one honoring Fernando by creating this exceptional sculpture on his grave, moved me to tears.
Nourishing the departed
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Food, Travel & Tourism, tagged cemetery, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Día de Muertos, death, fruit, graves, Mexico, nuts, Oaxaca, pan de muerto, panteón, photos, Tlacolula de Matamoros, tombs on November 1, 2019| 10 Comments »
The difuntos have begun arriving and, like every year on November 1, I escape the tourist craziness of the city to spend time in the tranquility of the panteón in Tlacolula de Matamoros. Under the dappled sunlight of early afternoon, families clean, bring flowers, and celebrate. The departed must have nourishment for their travel between the world of the living and dead, thus fruit, nuts, bread, and beverages are placed on the graves.
The difuntos also seem to appreciate artistry.
Fruit & nuts for the departed
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Food, Travel & Tourism, tagged cemetery, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, death, fruit, graves, Mexico, nuts, Oaxaca, Octavio Paz quote, panteón, photos, Tlacolula de Matamoros, tombs on November 3, 2018| 8 Comments »
Under the dappled sunlight filtering through the 500 year old ahuehuete trees in the panteón of Tlacolula de Matamoros, lovingly placed fruit and nuts nourish the souls. (Click on images to enlarge)
In the afternoon, when the light and shadows dance on the graves, beautiful still lifes greet the departed, their living family, friends, and visitors. It is a tranquil setting to contemplate the words of Octavio Paz (The Labyrinth of Solitude, the other Mexico, and essays, Grove Press, 1985, p. 54)
The opposition between life and death was not so absolute to the ancient Mexicans as it is to us. Life extended into death, and vice versa. Death was not the natural end of life but one phase of an infinite cycle.
Coco’s inspiration
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Basilica de la Soledad, cemetery, Coco movie, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Mexico, Oaxaca, panteón, photographs, photos, San Antonino Castillo Velasco, skulls, Tlacolula de Matamoros on November 25, 2017| 15 Comments »
For anyone who still wonders why in the world I have chosen to live in and thrive in Oaxaca, go see the latest Pixar movie, Coco.
Entrance to the Panteón de Xochimilco, Oaxaca – Oct. 31, 2017
The filmmakers “based the Rivera family — a multigenerational matriarchy headed by Miguel’s formidable abuelita, or grandmother — on real-world families with whom they embedded while visiting the Mexican states of Oaxaca and Guanajuato between 2011 and 2013.” (How Pixar Made Sure ‘Coco’ Was Culturally Conscious)
Panteón in San Antonino Castillo Velasco, Oaxaca – Nov. 4, 2017
From the elaborately embroidered blouses and animated fantastical alebrije to the cemeteries and “life” of Día de los Muertos, Oaxaca provided an inspiration for the film. (Coco, la nueva película de Disney-Pixar inspirada en Oaxaca)
Panteón San Antonino Castillo Velasco, Oaxaca – Nov. 4, 2017
It is the music and messiness, color and cacophony, and finding joy in just being.
Panteón San Antonino Castillo Velasco, Oaxaca – Nov. 4, 2017
“We absorbed details in every place that we visited, but the most valuable thing was the time we spent with Mexican families.” (How Coco’s Directors Celebrated the Film’s Mexican Heritage)
Ofrenda display in the Biblioteca Pública Central de Oaxaca Margarita Maza de Juárez – Oct. 31, 2017
It is the Oaxaca of fiestas, street dogs, and papel picado.
Papel picado projected on the Basilica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, Oaxaca – Oct. 30, 2017
Above all, it is about the importance of family, living and dead…
Public ofrenda in the atrium of the Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, Oaxaca – Oct. 31, 2017
“With all of its music and folklore and artwork, and the story itself, audiences so far feel Coco respects their families, living and remembered.” (Mexico, Music And Family Take Center Stage In ‘Coco’)
Panteón Municipal de Tlacolula de Matamoros, Oaxaca – Nov. 1, 2017
And, respect for one’s heritage and traditions.
Panteón San Antonino Castillo Velasco, Oaxaca – Nov. 4, 2017
This is the Oaxaca I fell in love with and treasure.
Panteón San Antonino Castillo Velasco, Oaxaca – Nov. 4, 2017
This is the Oaxaca that captured by heart, daily enriches my life, and I call home.
Cemetery scenes in the valley
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged cemetery, Día de los Muertos, Día de Muerto, flowers, graves, Mexico, music, Oaxaca, Octavio Paz quote, panteón, photographs, photos, San Antonino Castillo Velasco, Santa María Atzompa, Tlacolula de Matamoros, tombs on November 7, 2016| 9 Comments »
The dead don’t arrive in the valley of Oaxaca all at once. The cosmic difunto air traffic controller has scheduled their arrival at different times on different days, from October 31 through November 3, to avoid celestial congestion.
Santa María Atzompa’s departed are among the first to return, arriving on the night of October 31. Flower and food vendors line the walkway leading to the panteón as grandparents, parents, teens, and small children stream in with arms full of flowers, candles, buckets, and brooms. Because is built on a slope and there are almost no paths, footing can be treacherous, especially in the dark when only candles on the graves light the way. At one time, perhaps tombs were positioned on a grid, but no more and it seems to be filled to capacity. I guess that’s why one side of the panteón has been opened up (one of the walls removed), the field beyond leveled, and a new wall around the field, connected to the old, constructed. (You can click on images for a larger view.)
On November 1, in the early afternoon, it has become our custom to visit the cemetery in Tlacolula de Matamoros, before bringing pan de muerto and mezcal to the home of friends in Teotitlán del Valle. In contrast to the higgledy-piggledy of Atzompa, the panteón in Tlacolula emanates a sense of order and serenity. I wonder, could the tranquility comes from the 500 year old ahuehuete trees (hijos of el Tule, we were told) that reign over the tombs of the departed and make for an amazing play of light and shadow throughout?
On November 2, we returned to Teotitlán, but I will save that for another blog post. However, that was not the end of the road. In the category of, no rest for the living, the following day we drove south to San Antonino Castillo Velasco. This is the village known for their beautiful flowers and exquisite floral embroidery. And, it is said that because the living are so busy providing flowers to other parts of the valley, the departed wait until November 3 to return. (See the book, Day of the Dead: When Two Worlds Meet in Oaxaca by Shawn D. Haley and Curt Fukuda.) I’m sure, like we, the difuntos are dazzled by the intricacy of floral designs that family members have created to decorate their tombs in welcome.
Octavio Paz writes in The Labyrinth of Solitude, “Life extended into death, and vice-versa. Death was not the natural end of life but one phase of an infinite cycle.”
Muertos photo challenge y mas…
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged cempasuchitl, chocolate skulls, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, marigolds, Mexico, muerteada, Oaxaca, pan de muerto, panteón, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Santa María Atzompa, skeletons on October 29, 2016| 6 Comments »
Celebrations in Oaxaca surrounding Día de Muertos are beginning. This past week, we, members of the Mexico Travel Photography Facebook group, were issued a 5-day “Day of the Dead” photo challenge by moderator, Norma Schafer. There are always so many favorite images from so many events that I never get around to posting, so this was my opportunity. My five…
Panteón, Santa María Atzompa, Oaxaca on Oct. 31, 2015
Offering on tomb in Panteón Municipal de Tlacolula de Matamoros, Oaxaca on Nov. 1, 2015
Muerteada, morning after the night before, Nov. 2, 2014, San Agustín Etla, Oaxaca
Sun sets on Santa María Atzompa panteón, Oct. 31, 2014
On the Alcalá in Oaxaca City, Oct. 31, 2014
And, five more, just because…
Santa María Atzompa, Oct. 31, 2015
San Pablo Villa de Mitla, ofrenda with pan de muertos, Nov. 1, 2014
Chocolate calaveras at Villa de Etla, Oct. 31, 2014
Cempasuchil (marigold) vendor at Villa de Etla, Oct. 31, 2014
Casa de las Artesanías de Oaxaca, Oct. 31, 2015
That’s all folks, for now. Stay tuned for more to come from this year.
Loving hands of San Antonino
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged cemetery, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Día de Muertos, flowers, hands, Mexico, Oaxaca, panteón, photographs, photos, San Antonino Castillo Velasco, tombs on November 5, 2015| 6 Comments »
Young and old, male and female…
it’s a family affair, labor of love…
as the tombs of San Antonino Castillo Velasco are painstakingly decorated on November 3.
All things must pass…
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged All Things Must Pass, cemetery, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, George Harrison quote, Living in the Material World, Mexico, Oaxaca, panteón, photographs, photos on November 30, 2013| 1 Comment »
Last night, flipping through my Cablemas channels, I happened upon Martin Scorsese’s 2011 film, George Harrison: Living in the Material World. I’ve seen this beautiful documentary before, could watch it many more times, and how could I resist, on Black Friday night, the wonderful irony of the title? I’m sure George is chuckling somewhere.
Yesterday marked the twelfth anniversary of George’s death (no doubt the reason it was being shown) and, as I watched and listened to Olivia describe the importance George placed on preparing for one’s death, I couldn’t help but reflect on Día de los Muertos. All things must pass; death as a part of the journey of being. And, some of this year’s Muertos photos seemed to be ready to let go of most of their color…
All Things Must Pass
by George Harrison
Sunrise doesn’t last all morning
A cloudburst doesn’t last all day
Seems my love is up and has left you with no warning
It’s not always going to be this grey
All things must pass
All things must pass away
Sunset doesn’t last all evening
A mind can blow those clouds away
After all this, my love is up and must be leaving
It’s not always going to be this grey
All things must pass
All things must pass away
All things must pass
None of life’s strings can last
So, I must be on my way
And face another day
Now the darkness only stays the night-time
In the morning it will fade away
Daylight is good at arriving at the right time
It’s not always going to be this grey
All things must pass
All things must pass away
All things must pass
All things must pass away
Muertos day by day, part 1
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged CEDART, cemetery, comparsa, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, documentary, La Biznaga, La Festividad de los Muertos, Los Danzantes, Mexico, Oaxaca, panteón, parade, photographs, photos, Santa María Atzompa, sugar cane on November 7, 2013| 2 Comments »
The souls have departed. And, following 33 hours of travel, my BFF (along with her alebrijes by Alberto Perez and the Xuana family, a traditional black and white rebozo, bottle of Del Maguey mezcal from Chichicapa, several bags of Conchita chocolate, and a fabulous mohair rug woven by Antonio Ruíz Gonzalez), has returned home to the frigid climes of Alaska. However, gal pal, souls, and the mortals with whom we shared the past, have left warm and lasting memories. They have also left an exhausted gringa, whose brain feels like one of those overloaded small trucks one (more than occasionally) sees on the roads here. With every nook and cranny filled, they move at a snail’s pace, be it along a pot-holed dirt road or the carretera, balancing their top-heavy loads.
Our week began on October 29, when the sounds of a band Pied Piper-ed us down the street and around a corner to a comparsa of high school students, who were taking part in a competition of using recycled products for their costumes and floats. Alas, the rains came and eventually chased us home.
On October 30, delectable dining (lunch at La Biznaga and dinner at Los Danzantes) nourished multiple museum visits and allowed us to join the standing-room-only crowd at the Oaxaca Lending Library (without rumbling stomachs) to watch the wonderful new documentary, La Festividad de los Muertos, chronicling Day of the Dead in Teotitlán del Valle.
Then there was Thursday, the 31st…. A shopping expedition for flowers, sugar skulls, bread (pan de muertos), and two 10-foot long stalks of sugar cane to form the arch over my altar. I carried them the 10-blocks home on my shoulder (sheesh, they are heavy) and carefully navigating the busy sidewalks. According to BFF, I provided pedestrians and passengers in buses,cars, and taxis much entertainment. I didn’t see a thing — I was just trying not to trip, fall, or whack anyone in front, behind, or to the sides of me!
Once the candles, photos, bread, chocolate, beverages (cervesa, mezcal, and water), and meaningful objects to our departed were in place; flowers arranged and cempasuchitl (marigold) petals scattered; and the arching sugar cane affixed to the wall surrounding our ofrenda, we made our way down to the beginning of the CEDART comparsa.
Later in the evening, we drove up to the panteón in Santa María Atzompa. Passing the bright lights and crush of food, flower, pottery, and other vendors that line the entrance and finally emerging from under the arched gateway, the candlelit ethereal beauty of the cemetery on this night never ceases to take my breath away. Of course, it wasn’t all exquisite and unearthly enchantment. This is Mexico and so there was also a (very loud) band and the cervesa and mezcal flowed freely. I’m sure the difuntos (deceased) enjoyed themselves and partied hardy with the living until the sun rose. And then all slept.
On the other hand, we left at a reasonable hour, as we were only at the mid-point of our Día de los Muertos marathon. More to come…
Snapshot of Muertos
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged altar, cemetery, comparsa, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Mexico, muerteada, Oaxaca, panteón, photographs, photos, San Agustín Etla, San Antonino Castillo Velasco, San José Mogote, Santa María Atzompa, Teotitlán del Valle on November 3, 2013| 1 Comment »
It’s been a magnificent Muertos filled with memorable moments and special people, along with a feast for ALL the senses. An initial pass through the photos has weeded them down to 450. Yikes! Lots more weeding and processing to do. In the meantime, here is a snapshot from the past 5 days.
Muerteada – San José el Mogote Etla – early morning Nov. 2, 2013.
Chapel, panteón, Teotitlán del Valle. Nov. 1, 2013
Panteón, San Antonino Castillo Velasco. Nov. 1, 2013
Panteón, San Antonino Castillo Velasco. Nov. 1, 2013
Panteón – Santa María Atzompa. Night of Oct. 31, 2013.
Comparsa in Oaxaca city. Evening of Oct. 31, 2013.
CEDART comparsa in Oaxaca city. Oct. 31, 2013.
CEDART comparsa, Oaxaca city. Oct. 31, 2013.
Tapete de arena (sand painting) in front of CEDART. Oct. 31, 2013.
Muertos flower vendors at Sanchez Pascuas. Oct. 31, 2013.
Tapete de arena (sand painting), Plaza de la Danza. Oct. 30, 2013.
Bar upstairs from Los Danzantes restaurant. Oct. 30, 2013.
Decorating Avenida M. Hidalgo entrance to San Pablo Cultural Center. Oct. 30, 2013.
High school recycled products comparsa. Oct. 29, 2013.
And the magic continues today, when we return to San Antonino Castillo Velasco.
Old rugged cross
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged cemetery, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Mexico, Oaxaca, panteón, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Zaachila on November 28, 2012| Leave a Comment »
The Y-shaped valley of Oaxaca is about 700 square kilometers, not all that big when compared to California’s Sacramento Valley, which is approximately 2,570 square kilometers. Yet, unlike the “sameness” one encounters in Sacramento Valley towns (sorry, CA), one can’t help but be struck by the unique identity of each of the Zapotec villages that are only kilometers apart. One specializes in red clay pots, another in black pottery, and another in green glazed ceramics. There are villages of woodcarvers near weavers of cotton and others of wool, never mind the fashion trends!
Thus, it should come as no surprise that Day of the Dead celebrations and cemeteries differ, often dramatically, from village to village. And so, from the whitewashed graves of Santiago Apóstol and the candlelight of Santa María Atzompa (today’s earlier post), we came to the carved wooden crosses in the Panteón Municipal of the Villa de Zaachila.
Along with livestock, produce, and household goods, wood gathered from the hills surrounding Zaachila is a major part of Zaachila’s weekly Thursday tianguis (open air market). It’s one of my favorites!
Dualism beginning to vanish…
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged cemetery, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, dualism, Mexico, Oaxaca, panteón, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, religion, Santa María Atzompa, Santiago Apóstol on November 28, 2012| 1 Comment »
With only a couple of days left in November and the Christmas holiday season already making its presence known, it’s now or never to finish sorting through this year’s Día de los Muertos photos — my thoughts and impressions will take the remains of this lifetime, and then some, to process.
To an outsider, especially one whose worldview was shaped by a Judeo-Christian culture, Day of the Dead is often seen through the lens of juxtaposition.
The “unbearable lightness of being” in Santiago Apóstol…
The blurred otherworldly darkness of Santa María Atzompa…
However, light becomes dark becomes light becomes dark, as day becomes night becomes day becomes night, as life becomes death becomes life becomes death… dualism beginning to vanish.
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