The Three Wise Monkeys…
Well, maybe not monkeys! From the Día de Muertos altar “Transitions” by Estudio Dinamo at Voces de Copal Galeria.
Posts Tagged ‘Día de Muertos’
Words of wisdom
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Travel & Tourism, tagged altars, ceramic sculptures, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Día de Muertos, Estudio Dinamo, Mexico, Oaxaca, ofrendas, photos, Three Wise Monkeys, Voces de Copal Galeria on December 15, 2020| Leave a Comment »
Day of the Dead ofrendas
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged altars, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Día de Muertos, Mexico, Oaxaca, ofrendas, photos on November 13, 2020| 17 Comments »
Living and being in Oaxaca during the Días de los Muertos is hard to put into words. There is so much to experience and to think about. It is the ofrendas that touch me the most — they are all so personal, even those on display to the public. And, one of the unexpected delights of tracking down the chairs of the Silla Calavera project, was to see the Day of the Dead ofrendas constructed by the hotels and restaurants also displaying the chairs.
Sensory overload challenges the limits of heart and mind and, especially this year, my emotions ran the gamut from extreme exhilaration to quiet joy to being moved to tears.
Sitting pretty in a Silla Calavera
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged art, artisans, calaveras, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Día de Muertos, exhibitions, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, skulls on November 5, 2020| 31 Comments »
In my effort to “step away” from the US election news, I went in search of the fourteen chairs of the “Silla Calavera” project scattered throughout restaurants and hotels in the city — a creative and calorie-burning distraction!
The project arose as an idea to spread the traditions of Oaxaca through artistic creations using an object of daily life — a comforting and comfortable seat, where each artist, through their creativity and respect for the dead, exposes the face of a skull.
Unfortunately, this next chair had been disassembled by the time I arrived, but here, in two parts, the back and the seat.
The artisans, I think with great success, sought to capture and share their roots, customs, and traditions.
Yesterday, the chairs were removed from the restaurants and hotels. Tonight, with an inaugural celebration, they went on display at ARIPO until November 15, 2020. For purchase after that date, contact Matlacihua Arte or individual artists.
Skeletons, catrinas & catrines for Leo
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged calacas, Catrinas, Catrines, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Día de Muertos, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, skeletons, skulls on November 2, 2020| Leave a Comment »
For my skeleton loving grandson, the 2020 skeletons, catrinas, and catrines hanging around Oaxaca.
Seen on the sidewalks, businesses, and balconies of Oaxaca on November 1 and 2 — during these days we welcome and celebrate with our departed.
Hearts and flowers of Muertos
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged catrina Juchiteca, cempasúchil, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Día de Muertos, hearts, marigolds, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, plastic recycling, recycling bins, skulls on November 1, 2020| 2 Comments »
Even the recycling bins in Oaxaca are getting into the spirit of Day of the Dead.
And cempasúchil (marigolds) to beckon the difuntos (departed), plastic bottles, and tin cans.
Invitation to my departed
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged altars, calaveritas, Catrinas, cempasuchil, coronavirus fallout, COVID-19 fallout, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Día de Muertos, flowers, incense, marigolds, Mexico, Oaxaca, ofrenda, papel picado, photos on October 30, 2020| 8 Comments »
These are strange days leading up to our departed coming to call while we are living in the time of Covid-19. With public activities canceled, thus no nightly calendas (parades) filling the streets and our ears, and fewer tourists, Oaxaca is experiencing more peace and tranquility this Day of the Dead season — albeit laced with a touch of melancholy and anxiety.
Masked and shielded, I braved the mostly local crowds south of the zócalo, to shop for cempasuchil (marigolds), cresta de gallo (cockscomb), apples, mandarin oranges, peanuts and pecans, chocolate, and pan de muertos (Day of the Dead bread) — but it wasn’t nearly as much fun as years past.
However, the joy returned when I unwrapped photographs of my parents, grandparents, and other loved ones; selected some of their favorite things to put on my ofrenda; placed the fruit, nuts, bread, and chocolate among the photos; positioned candles, flowers, and incense; and poured my departed a copita (little cup) of water and another of mezcal — all to beckon, entertain, and sustain them during their brief stay.
I’m looking forward to a more personal and reflective Día de Muertos this year.
Marigolds for Muertos
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Flora, Travel & Tourism, tagged cempasúchil, coronavirus fallout, COVID-19 fallout, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Día de Muertos, marigolds, photos on October 26, 2020| Leave a Comment »
Cempasúchil (marigolds), the flowers synonymous with Day of the Dead, have begun appearing throughout the city. Alas, not in the quantity we are used to.
As I have written previously, because of the acceleration of the Covid-19 cases, the City of Oaxaca will not permit public Day of the Dead celebrations and events.
So it’s a subdued Día de Muertos season we are living.
While the yellows and oranges of the marigolds seem to mirror the semáforo amarillo and naranja (yellow and orange Covid-19 traffic lights) we are bouncing between, they brighten the days and impart a familiar and welcome scent.
Oaxaca regrets…
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Catrín, Catrinas, coronavirus fallout, COVID-19 fallout, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Día de Muertos, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos on October 11, 2020| 14 Comments »
To borrow a line from Cole Porter, Oaxaca regrets there will be no Muertos this year, señora.
Due to a rebound in positive Covid-19 cases in both the capital and state (we are back in traffic light orange — with red threatening), yesterday the city council of Oaxaca unanimously voted to cancel all Day of the Dead activities (NVI Noticias). That means there will be no comparsas (parades), altar displays, sand paintings, costume contests, and no cemetery visits. Other municipalities are expected to follow suit. If you have plans to be here for Día de Muertos, I strongly urge you to reconsider.
Given this sad and sobering news and the above Catrín and Catrina seen on this morning’s walk, I keep flashing on the Cole Porter song, Miss Otis Regrets — especially this dirge-like version by Kristy MacColl.
This is serious and no time to let your guard down. Please practice social distancing, wash your hands frequently, and for goodness sake, cover your mouth AND nose with a mask when out in public!!!
Creating with love for the departed
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged celebrations, cemetery, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Día de Muertos, Fernando Moctezuma Valencia García, flowers, Mexico, Oaxaca, panteón, San Antonino Castillo Velasco, sculptures on November 3, 2019| 2 Comments »
Today, November 3, blogger buddy Chris and I made our annual pilgrimage to experience the flowers and families of the panteón in San Antonino Castillo Velasco. We have been doing this for many years and are always surprised and delighted by the creativity of the living, as they decorate the graves of their departed. This year was no exception — especially the sculptures on two of the graves. (Click on image to enlarge.)
Below, the plaque on the simple wooden cross read, 1994 – 2018 Fernando Moctezuma Valencia García “Tachuma” Te amoremos por siempre, tu familia (We love you forever, your family). A little internet research revealed that the young Fernando was already a talented ceramicist.
The hands of a loved one honoring Fernando by creating this exceptional sculpture on his grave, moved me to tears.
Nourishing the departed
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Food, Travel & Tourism, tagged cemetery, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Día de Muertos, death, fruit, graves, Mexico, nuts, Oaxaca, pan de muerto, panteón, photos, Tlacolula de Matamoros, tombs on November 1, 2019| 10 Comments »
The difuntos have begun arriving and, like every year on November 1, I escape the tourist craziness of the city to spend time in the tranquility of the panteón in Tlacolula de Matamoros. Under the dappled sunlight of early afternoon, families clean, bring flowers, and celebrate. The departed must have nourishment for their travel between the world of the living and dead, thus fruit, nuts, bread, and beverages are placed on the graves.
The difuntos also seem to appreciate artistry.
Calaveras, calacas, catrins & catrinas
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged calacas, calaveras, catrin, Catrinas, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Día de Muertos, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, skeletons, skulls on October 30, 2019| 5 Comments »
Calaveras, calacas, catrins, and catrinas, oh my! (Click images to enlarge.)
In the city and villages, walls and windows, sitting and standing, happy and sad — they are everywhere in Oaxaca!
Muertos, it’s only just begun
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Catrinas, comparsa, costumes, dancers, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Día de Muertos, face painting, Magna Comparsa, Mexico, muerteada, Oaxaca, parade, photos on October 26, 2019| 5 Comments »
Tonight, the living began welcoming the dead with a Gran Comparsa through the streets of Oaxaca, beginning at Parque Juárez El Llano and ending at the Plaza de la Danza — the latter, almost on my doorstep! Visitors and Oaxaqueños, young and old, lined the parade route in anticipation.
With bands leading the way, catrinas in regional dress and dancers in traditional muerteada attire whirled and twirled, high-stepped and jumped, and moved and grooved their way through the streets.
Día de Muertos observances are different in the indigenous villages — the mood is more formal and each village has customs and rituals that tradition dictates must be followed. Even the dates and times the difuntos arrive to join their living families can differ. However, in both ciudad and pueblo, the goal is to bring together the living and their dead to eat, drink, and reminisce.
After the comparsa passed, I walked around the corner to Casita Colibrí. However, no sooner had I downloaded my photos, the unmistakable sound of fireworks being launched from the Plaza de la Danza called me out onto my terrace. The music and partying continued until 10:30 PM.
The celebrations have only just begun! Click HERE for the very long list of Día de Muertos cultural events in the City of Oaxaca. And, below are some of the activities happening in many of the villages outside the city. (Click on image to enlarge.)
Miles of marigolds
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Flora, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged cempasúchil, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Día de Muertos, flowers, marigolds, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, zócalo on October 22, 2018| 6 Comments »
Today the sun (finally) came out and hundreds (thousands?) of pots of cempasúchil (aka, cempoalxóchitl, cempaxochitl, cempoal, zempoal, flor de muertos) arrived in the city center.
This was a photo op not only for yours truly but also the local press, as they trailed after the wife of Oaxaca’s governor while she viewed the unloading…
and planting of the iconic Día de los Muertos flowers in the beds of the Zócalo and Alameda.
The color and fragrance of the cempasúchil provide a lovely setting to sit and contemplate the world (and check your cell phone).
Oaxaca is putting on her best to welcome her difuntos (deceased) along with the thousands of tourists who will soon be arriving.
Muertos memories in B&W
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Black and white photography, comparsa, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Día de Muertos, face painting, Magna Comparsa Oaxaca 2017, Mexico, muerteada, Oaxaca, photographs, photos on November 12, 2017| 2 Comments »
Looking back, in black and white…
Magna Comparsa Oaxaca through the streets of the city on October 28, 2017.
Virgins in sand
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Día de Muertos, Mexico, Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, sand paintings, tapetes de arena, Virgen de Guadalupe, Virgen de Juquila, Virgen del Carmen, Virgen del Rosario, Virgen Dolorosa on October 31, 2017| Leave a Comment »
Tapetes de arena (rugs of sand) are a traditional feature of the celebration in Oaxaca of Día de Muertos. When I first arrived to live here, they were drawn in front of the Cathedral. Next, they moved for a year or two to the Government Palace and for the last several years they have graced the Plaza de la Danza. This year’s offerings were the work of twelve artisans and feature the most beloved and revered of the Jesús and María señores y señoras in Oaxaca. This post will highlight the ladies…
Virgen Dolorosa — Our Lady of Sorrows
Virgen del Carmen — Our Lady of Mount Carmel
Sra. Virgen del Rosario — Our Lady of the Rosary
Interestingly, in previous years the themes of the sand paintings in these public spaces have been Día de Muertos related. I’m not sure of why the change this year to religious imagery. Indigenous Day of the Dead celebrations pre-date the arrival of the Spanish and the All Saints Day of the Catholic church. And in Oaxaca, one of the most indigenous states in Mexico, as Shawn D. Haley points out in his book, Day of the Dead: When Two Worlds Meet in Oaxaca, “there is little of the Spanish influence to be found in the Oaxacan Day of the Dead. The Spanish version… is bleak and dismal…. For the Oaxaqueñans, these days are… joyous and exuberant. It is not a mourning of lost loved ones, but a celebration, a reunion with the dead.”
Santa María de Guadalupe — Our Lady of Guadalupe
Nuestra Señora de la Solidad — Our Lady of Solitude
Inmaculada Concepción de Juquila — Virgin of Juquila
For more of these sand paintings, check out the recent post by blogger buddy Chris. By the way, the feast days for these last three señoras are coming up in December. First on the calendar is Juquila on December 8, then comes Guadalupe on December 12, and, finally, Oaxaca’s patron saint, Soledad on December 18. There will be special masses, processions, and rockets. December is a noisy month!
But first, we must welcome the difuntos (departed) who begin arriving tonight.
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