From the sublime to the ridiculous and from the mundane to the special, scenes around Oaxaca frequently bring a smile.
I miss this when I’m not here.
Archive for the ‘Celebrations’ Category
Scenes from around town
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Food, Travel & Tourism, tagged brooms, Fundación En Via, garbage truck, Guelaguetza desfile, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, sculptures, stickers, street art, street vendors on August 17, 2026| 2 Comments »
Let the festivities begin!
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged canastas, convite, Danza de la Pluma, danzantes, Fiesta de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, procession, religious celebrations, Teotitlán del Valle, video on July 31, 2026| 3 Comments »
Where did July go? As the old saying goes, time flies when you’re having fun — and fun I certainly have been having! (Well, except for the root canal. But, I won’t go into that.) After having a blast with friends and neighbors rooting for Mexico in the World Cup, I headed to Teotitlán del Valle for its patronal celebration honoring Preciosa Sangre de Nuestro Señor Jesucristo. As I’ve done so many times before, I followed the traditional convite, inviting residents and visitors to the festival, as it processed from the church through the main streets of the village.
Coheteros led off the procession, launching rockets into the heavens alerting one and all the convite was on its way. They were followed by young boys, in varying states of enthusiasm or concentration, carrying mini marmotas (cloth globes on a pole) and the occasional paper mache animal or airplane (don’t ask me about the latter).
Next came the band, “Herencia Musical,” along with the traditional sounds of a teponaxtle and chirimía. They were closely followed by several contingents of unmarried women and girls (at least 200) wearing enredos (wool wrap skirts) and colorfully embroidered white blouses and balancing canastas with images of various saints on their heads.
Those canastas are heavy! Can you imagine holding on to them with both arms raised above your head for almost an hour?
A second band, “Leyenda,” announced the approach of the dancers of the Danza de la Pluma Promesa 2025-2027.
All along the route, people lined the streets — often using side streets to move from one favorite viewing spot to another — including this one in front of the carnival set up alongside the church.
The procession wended it’s way along the cobblestone streets through the five sections of town — from gentle inclines up into the hills and back down..
All the while, everyone kept up the pace — including little Doña Marina and Malinche.
After almost an hour, the convite ended where it began, back to the atrium of the church to greet waiting family and friends.
Here but soon there
Posted in Animals, Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Food, Holidays, photos, popular travel destinations, Textiles, Travel & Tourism, tagged aprons, baskets, Carrizo, cultural heritage, festivals, fire trucks, food trucks, goats, here and there, horses, Mexico, Mill Valley, Oaxaca, parades, photos, popular travel destinations on May 12, 2026| 10 Comments »
As my regular readers may have noticed, the blog posts of late have been few and far between. I must admit, I’ve found it really difficult to motivate writing about Oaxaca while I’m having to spend so much time in El Norte — though, goodness knows, photos and topics are definitely not in short supply. However, I guess anticipating my upcoming return to Oaxaca has prompted me to appreciate both here and there and provided the spark I needed to sit down and create this blog post.
Baskets for sale…
Food trucks…
Aprons for sale…
Goats with their humans…
Fire trucks on parade…
Horses on parade…
In the words of Maya Angelou, “We are more alike than unalike.”
Focusing on the joy
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Holidays, Neighborhoods, Travel & Tourism, tagged alebrije, beaches, calendas, demonstrations, holiday decorations, Mexico, murals, New Year's Eve, New Year's wish, Newton Massachusetts, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, San Francisco Bay Area, Teotitlán del Valle, wedding calenda on December 31, 2025| 8 Comments »
As 2025 moves from the front windshield to the rear view mirror, instead of focusing on the (metaphoric) traffic nightmares of speed demons, red light runners, and auto wrecks that can lead to what Reading the Pictures refers to as “carnage fatigue,” I’d like to follow their example and look back at those experiences and sights that brought me joy — my “rebuke to narcissism and the cult of personality [preferring] togetherness as the new order.”
¡Feliz Año Nuevo! My wish for 2026 is that you experience many moments of joy and they help sustain and embolden you through the greed-fueled chaos that tries to engulf and silence us. Muchisimas gracias for reading!
¡Feliz Nochebuena!
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged 'Twas the Night Before Christmas, “Lalo” Guerrero, Christmas, Christmas decorations, Christmas Eve, Christmas tree, Eduardo Guerrero, Mexico, Nacimiento de navidad, Navidad, Nochebuena, Oaxaca, Pa, “Lalo” Guerrero, Christmas decorations, Christmas Eve, Christmas trees, Eduardo “Lalo” Guerro, Mexico, Nochebuena, Oaxaca, Pancho Claus, photos, piñata, poem, popular travel destinations on December 24, 2025| 6 Comments »
‘Twas the night before Christmas and I’m again spending it with family and old friends in my childhood home in California. However, Oaxaca is never far from my thoughts. And, Navidad decorations were already in evidence before I flew north to California earlier this month.
May “Pancho Claus” by Chicano music legend, Eduardo “Lalo” Guerrero, bring the gift of laughter and joy to those near and far on this Nochebuena.
Pancho Claus
‘Twas the night before Christmas and all through la casa
Not a creature was stirring, Caramba! ¿Que pasa?
Los ninos were all tucked away in their camas,
Some in vestidos and some in pajamas.
While Mama worked late in her little cocina,
El viejo was down at the corner cantina.
The stockings were hanging con mucho cuidado,
In hopes that St. Nicholas would feel obligado
To bring all the children, both buenos y malos,
A Nice batch of dulces and other regalos.
Outside in the yard, there arouse such a grito,
That I jumped to my feet, like a frightened cabrito.
I went to the window and looked out afuera,
And who in the world, do you think que era?
Saint Nick in a sleigh and a big red sombrero
Came dashing along like a crazy bombero!
And pulling his sleigh instead of venados,
Were eight little burros approaching volados.
I watched as they came, and this little hombre
Was shouting and whistling and calling by nombre.
¡Ay, Pancho! ¡Ay, Pepe! ¡Ay, Cuca! ¡Ay, Beto!
¡Ay, Chato! ¡¡Ay, Chopo! ¡Maruca and ¡Nieto!
Then standing erect with his hand on his pecho
He flew to the top of our very own techo.
With his round little belly like a bowl of jalea,
He struggled to squeeze down our old chimenea.
Then huffing and puffing, at last in our sala,
With soot smeared all over his red suit de gala.
He filled the stockings with lovely regalos,
For none of the children had been very malos.
Then chuckling aloud and seeming contento,
He turned like a flash and was gone like the viento.
And I heard him exclaim and this is VERDAD,
Merry Christmas to all, And to all ¡Feliz Navidad!
Felices fiestas to all my wonderful readers and to Oaxaca — for being so warm and welcoming to me for sixteen (and counting) years!
Of marigolds and fruit
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged cemetery, cempasúchil, Day of the Dead, Día de Muertos, fruit, marigolds, Mexico, Oaxaca, panteón, photos, popular travel destinations, Tlacolula de Matamoros on November 20, 2025| 4 Comments »
During Día de Muertos (Day of the Dead), under the sun dappled light filtering through graceful several centuries old ahuehuete trees in the panteón of Tlacolula de Matamoros, the living offer the scent of cempasúchil (marigolds) to guide their departed home. And, to nourish them during their journey between the worlds of the living and the dead, fruit (thoughtfully opened), along with nuts and beverages are provided.
The fruit and flowers during Día de Muertos also beckon me to this Zapotec village in the Valley of Oaxaca and they nourish my soul.
Serenade for the departed
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged cemetery, Day of the Dead, Día de Muertos, Mexico, music, Oaxaca, panteón, popular travel destinations, San Antonino Castillo Velasco, saxophone in the cemetery, video on November 4, 2025| Leave a Comment »
The Zapotec village of San Antonino Castillo Velasco is known for its flowers. Their difuntos (departed) await them on November 3, as they understand their living loved ones have been occupied in providing flowers to decorate the altars and graves of neighboring villages in the valley of Oaxaca. I returned yesterday and my senses were filled with the beauty and aroma. However, as I was carefully navigating a winding route among the tumbas to leave, the sound of a lone saxophone beckoned me.
And, I was overcome with gratitude for the privilege of being present to experience that time and that place.
Beacon to my departed
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged altar, Day of the Dead, Día de Muertos, Mexico, Oaxaca, ofrenda, photos, popular travel destinations on November 1, 2025| 10 Comments »
A few days ago, I completed my Día de Muertos shopping — mandarinas (mandarin oranges), manzanas (apples), cempasuchil (marigolds), cresta de gallo (cockscomb), chocolate, and pan de muerto (Day of the Dead bread), thus allowing construction of my ofrenda to begin. I unwrapped photographs of my parents, grandparents, and extended family members; selected some of their favorite things to put on my ofrenda; placed fruit, nuts, bread, and chocolate among the photos; positioned candles, flowers, and incense; and poured my departed a copita (little cup) of water and another of mezcal.
Tonight, the candles and incense have been lit — all to beckon, entertain, and sustain my departed during their brief stay. However, this year, because Muertos falls on the weekend, I choose to believe, like the folks in Teotitlán del Valle, that my loved ones will being staying for 48 hours instead of only 24 hours.
An ofrenda is an offering and I’m hoping my very dearly departed, after their long journey to southern Mexico, will find it warm, welcoming, and nourishing.
Independence Day, Oaxaca style
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Charros, Cruz Roja, Día de la Independencia, desfile, drummers, El Mes de la Patria, equestrians, Escaramuza, Grito de Dolores, Himno Nacional Mexicana, horses, Mexican Independence Day, Mexican National Anthem, Mexico, military, nurses, Oaxaca, parade, photos, popular travel destinations, students on September 15, 2025| Leave a Comment »
Tonight, El Grito de Dolores, also known as El Grito de la Independencia (the Shout of Independence), will echo from the balconies of government buildings throughout Mexico. Mayors, governors, and La Presidenta Claudia Sheinbaum Pardo, Mexico’s first female president, will re-enact Don Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla’s 1810 call to arms (with a lot of improvisation) that announced the start of a ten-year long war for independence from Spain. Bells will chime, the flag will be waved, the Himno Naciónal will play, fireworks will explode, and the gathered crowd will, no doubt, be bursting with pride. Tomorrow, September 16, Día de la Independencia, patriotic parades will take over the major streets of cities and towns of Mexico.
However, this year, l’m in el norte and won’t be standing on a sidewalk in Oaxaca watching the parade pass me by. These photos from Mexican Independence Day 2023 of marching bands, forestry students, search and rescue organizations, nurses, military, police, and more will have to suffice. (Click on images to enlarge.)
To close the parade, my favorites, escaramuzas and charros riding their magnificent horses.
¡Viva México! ¡Viva Oaxaca! Hope to see you soon.
La Guelaguetza 2025 – live stream
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged folkloric dance, Guelaguetza, Guelaguetza 2025 program, Mexico, music festival, Oaxaca, popular travel destinations on July 21, 2025| Leave a Comment »
Whether you are currently in Oaxaca or, like me, thousands of miles away, you can watch La Guelaguetza 2025. The 10:00 AM and 5:00 PM performances on July 21 and July 28, 2025 are being live streamed on the Guelaguetza Oficial Facebook page, CORTV, and Guelaguetza 2025 YouTube channel. (Note: Most of Mexico, including Oaxaca, does NOT observe daylight savings time.)
Happy Birthday Oaxaca de Juárez
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, History, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged 493rd anniversary, Happy Birthday Oaxaca, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, street art, street sweepers, trees, urban art, wall art on April 25, 2025| 2 Comments »
Ah, Oaxaca. Another year, another birthday. Today, marks the 493rd anniversary of the elevation Oaxaca de Juárez to the rank of a city by Charles V of Spain. It was a political move by villagers to keep Antequera, as it was then called, out the hands of the Marquis, Hernán Cortes, who controlled the surrounding territory and villages. And, in honor of her birthday, I’m posting some of my favorite recent Oaxaca sights.
Of course, we know Oaxaca’s history goes back thousands of years before Spain even existed. Her past is still present and that’s one of the things I love most about Oaxaca.
A donkey not a warhorse
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Christianity, Domingo de Ramos, Holy Week, men carrying platform, Mexico, NYT op-ed, Oaxaca, Palm Sunday, photos, popular travel destinations, religious celebrations, San Antonino de Castillo Velasco, Semana Santa on April 14, 2025| 2 Comments »
As an op-ed by Andrew Thayer and published in the New York Times explained (to those of us who had forgotten or never knew), there were two processions that entered Jerusalem on the first Palm Sunday.
From the west came Pontius Pilate, the Roman governor, riding a warhorse and flanked by armed soldiers bedecked in the full pageantry of an oppressive empire. Every year during Passover, a Jewish festival celebrating liberation from Egyptian oppression and slavery, Pilate entered Jerusalem to suppress any unrest set off by that memory.
His arrival wasn’t ceremonial; it was tactical — a calculated show of force, what the Pentagon might now call “shock and awe.” It displayed not only Rome’s power but also Rome’s theology. Caesar was not just the emperor; he was deified and called “Son of a God” on coins and inscriptions. His rule was absolute, and the peace it promised came through coercion, domination and the threat of violence.
From the opposite direction, both literally and figuratively, came Jesus’ procession.
Jesus entered the city not on a warhorse but on a donkey, not with battalions but with beggars. His followers were peasants, fishermen, women and children — people without standing or status. They waved palm branches — symbols of Jewish resistance to occupation since the Maccabean revolt — and cried out “Hosanna!” which means “Save us.” Save us from a system of oppression disguised as order. Save us from those who tacitly endorse greed with pious language and prayers.
Year-after-year, despite the challenges of life, on Palm Sunday I have been uplifted by the warmth, generosity and devotion of the people of San Antonino Castillo Velasco. Alas, it’s been two years since I have had this privilege and must content myself with looking through my photos from 2023.
Felices fiestas to all!
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged 'Twas the Night Before Christmas, “Lalo” Guerrero, Christmas decorations, Christmas Eve, creche, Eduardo “Lalo” Guerro, Irma Garza, Mexico, Nativity scene, Noche de Rábanos, Nochebuena, Oaxaca, Pancho Claus, photos, piñata, poem, popular travel destinations on December 24, 2024| 3 Comments »
Although I’m spending Christmas in the San Francisco Bay Area with family, I’m dreaming Oaxaca holiday dreams of piñatas, often seemingly floating in air. [click on images to enlarge]
Nacimientos (Nativity scenes) and neighborhood posadas, at once solemn and joyful.
And, the wild and whacky rabanos (radishes), totomoxtle (corn husk), and flor inmortal (dried flower) creations on December 23, Noche de Rábanos (Night of the Radishes).
Thus, after a year’s hiatus, I’m reviving my Nochebuena tradition and presenting to you, “Pancho Claus” by Chicano musical legend Eduardo “Lalo” Guerrero and sung by Irma Garza. The song is a delightful parody of the Clement C. Moore classic, “‘Twas the Night Before Christmas” — and it has inspired real life Tex-Mex Santas. I hope it brings a chuckle or two on this Christmas Eve.
‘Twas the night before Christmas and all through the casa
Mama she was busy preparing the masa
To make the tamales for the tamalada
And all the ingredients for the enchiladas
Papa in the front room with all the muchachas
Was dancing the mambo and doing the cha cha
My brothers and sisters were out in the hall
Listening to Elvis singing rock ‘n roll
When all of a sudden there came such a racket
I jumped out of bed and I put on my jacket
I looked out the window and in front of the house
Was my old uncle Pedro as drunk as a louse
He ran in the casa he grabbed the guitarra
He let out a yell and played “Guadalajara”
I was starting to wonder as I lay there alone
How old Santa Claus was to visit my home
With all of this noise they would scare him away
When all of a sudden I hear someone say
Hey Pablo, Chuchito Hey! Arriba! Gordito, Jose
Get up there you bums or you don’t get no hay
And then to my wondering eyes did appear
Eight cute little donkeys instead of reindeer
They pulled a carreta that was full of toys
For all of us good little girls and boys
The fat little driver waved his big sombrero
And said Merry Christmas! Feliz Año Nuevo!
That means “Happy New Year”
And then I hear him sing
I am Santa’s cousin from south of the border
My name’s Pancho Claus and I bring you your order
I hear him exclaim as he drove past the porches
“Merry Christmas to all and to all Buenas Noches”
From my home to yours, I wish you peace, good health, and Felices Fiestas (Happy Holidays)!
Month of Juquila, Guadalupe & Soledad
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Día de la Virgen de Guadalupe, Día de la Virgen de Juquila, Dia de la Virgen de la Soledad, festivals and fiestas, Mexico, murals, Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, religious celebrations, street art, urban art, Virgen de Guadalupe, Virgen de Juquila, Virgen de La Soledad, Virgin of Guadalupe, Virgin of Juquila, Virgin of Solitude, wall art on December 7, 2024| 6 Comments »
If you don’t like clanging bells, fireworks bursting in air, and navigating procession-blocked streets (at all hours of the day and night), you might want to avoid being in Oaxaca in December. The month heralds seemingly round-the-clock joyous, sometimes solemn, and mostly noisy celebrations. This month, honoring the feast days of the Virgins of Juquila, Guadalupe, and Soledad elicits some of the most enthusiastic, lengthy, and loud festivities of the year.
December 8 marks Día de la Virgen de Juquila — the first of the three virgins being celebrated this month. Observances began weeks ago as pilgrims began their peregrinations to her tiny Chatino village of Santa Catarina Juquila. And, in Oaxaca city, processions began filling the streets, cohetes (rockets) began exploding, and church bells sounded announcing special misas (masses).
Next on the on the calendar is the more widely known date of December 12, honoring la Virgen de Guadalupe, aka, Queen of Mexico, Empress of America, and patron saint of México. However, the celebrating has already begun and besides fireworks, processions, and church bells chiming, professional photographers set up “Guadalupe grottos” outside Oaxaca’s Templo de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe so, after being blessed inside the church, parents can have their little boys and girls, dressed in traditional traje (costume), photographed. Once finished, all can partake in the rows upon rows of food stalls, carnival rides, and puestos selling toys, Santa hats, Christmas lights.
Last, but not least for Oaxaqueños, is December 18, the feast day of the much loved and revered, Queen of Oaxaca, La Santísima Virgen de La Soledad (Virgin of Solitude). Festivities with special religious rites, processions, and fireworks usually begin in early December, overlapping with Juquila and Guadalupe. Soledad’s celebration culminates with hundreds of her devotees camping out in the atrium of her church, the Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, on the night of December 17 — with musical entertainment throughout the night, afternoon cultural performances the next day, and several outdoor masses from before dawn to nightfall on the 18th. Food stalls take over the stairs leading to the Basílica and the street below (Independencia) is closed for several blocks with carnival rides and stalls selling more sweets and savories, religious tchotchkes, clothing, and much more. It’s lively, crowded, and loud!
I’m still in el norte and all is quiet. While it makes for a better night’s sleep, I’m missing the raucous and joy-filled cacophony that fills Oaxaca’s days and nights in December.
Muertos guys & gals
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged calacas, Catrinas, Day of the Dead, Day of the Dead decor, Día de Muertos, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, skeletons, street art, urban art, wall art on October 27, 2024| 9 Comments »
It’s Halloween time up here in el norte and the occasional house features spiders poised to pounce in webs strung across bushes, witches with broomsticks guard front gates, and pumpkins decorate entries signaling trick or treaters are welcome. A few skeletons have moved into the neighborhood but none are as well dressed and accessorized as those seen last year loitering on sidewalks, hanging out on walls, and dining in the restaurants of Oaxaca during Día de Muertos (Day of the Dead).
What can I say? I’m missing these guys and gals inhabiting Oaxaca this time of year.
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- Of marigolds and fruit
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- Beacon to my departed
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