Plumeria (aka, Frangipani, Flor de mayo) currently bringing their fragrance to the Casita Colibrí terrace…
As the saying goes, April showers bring May flowers — even if it’s still April!
Posts Tagged ‘popular travel destinations’
May flowers
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Flora, Gardens, Travel & Tourism, tagged Casita Colibrí, Flor de mayo, flowers, frangipani, gardens, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, plumeria, popular travel destinations on April 10, 2018| 4 Comments »
A procession prepares
Posted in Churches, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Easter, Good Friday, Holy Week, Mexico, Oaxaca, Pascuas, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Procesión del Silencio, Procession of Silence, religious banners, religious images, Semana Santa, Viernes Santo on April 1, 2018| 2 Comments »
Though it threatened to rain on the parade, hours before the Procession of Silence was scheduled to start, crowds began lining the Macedonio Alcalá to watch as procession participants prepared for the sixteen block silent journey through some of Oaxaca’s main streets.
As Chris mentioned, in his blog post, there seemed to be many more women taking part.
Please keep silent, the procession is about to begin…
Priest, palms, produce, and procession
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Food, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Domingo de Palmas, Domingo de Ramos, Holy Week, Mexico, Oaxaca, offerings, Palm Sunday, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, priests, religion, San Antonino Castillo Velasco, San Salvador image, Semana Santa on March 26, 2018| 23 Comments »
If it’s Domingo de Ramos (Palm Sunday), I must be in San Antonino Castillo Velasco. I know there must be other villages that have colorful and moving celebrations, but the magic of San Antonino compels me to return year after year. Who can resist the spectacle outside the village panteón of watching el Señor del Burro be piled high with a cornucopia of fruits and vegetables and festooned with garlands of peppers and pan (bread)?
And, besides, each year there is always something a little new and different. To wit, in previous years parishioners presented their offerings with great pride to a committee of three or four women who formally received the donations, thanked the benefactors, and priced the items (for sale later in the day to benefit the work of the church). However, this year, in addition to offering blessings, it was the priest who interceded between the donors and the pricing committee to receive and express gratitude to each person for their contribution — be they grand or humble.
Once the young priest finished receiving the goods, he donned his ceremonial robes, offered prayers, and blessed everything (including my camera!) and everyone with holy water. This was the cue for palm fronds to be distributed to all and the altar boys and girls and disciples to assemble.
With the burro fully loaded, a team of 20+ extremely strong men hoisted the litter carrying the image of San Salvador atop the burro and, followed by villagers and visitors carrying the remainder of the goods collected, the journey to the church set off — a ritual reenactment of the Biblical story of Jesus entering Jerusalem to celebrate the Passover. As the procession made its way to the church, the rhythmic sounds of the drum and horn leading the way were occasionally overpowered by shouts warning the men of topes (speed bumps) and low hanging telephone wires that must be navigated.
The route is at least a kilometer from the panteón to San Antonino Obispo church and yesterday the sun was blazing, with not a cloud in the sky. It is a grueling act of faith for the men who bear this massive burden. The final hurtle was making their way up the steps and under the arch leading to the church atrium, where a platform to place el Señor del Burro awaited.
By 1:00 PM, the bounty to be sold had been hand (head) carried or trucked to the display area set up on the opposite side of the church atrium and it was time for the outdoor mass to commence. Thus, it was also time for us to duck out to browse the accompanying expo-venta of fabulous San Antonino embroidered blouses and dresses, flor inmortal artisan creations, the amazing and ongoing work of José García Antonio, the blind potter, and lastly find our favorite empanada vendor in the maze of food and artisan stalls set up outside the atrium walls. Yummm…
You should also check out the Oaxaca-The Year After blog– rumor has it that Chris will be posting a video of the procession in the next day or two (or three).
Purple rain
Posted in Flora, History, Music, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged color lavender, immigrants, jacaranda, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Spring, Tatsugoro Matsumoto, trees on March 19, 2018| 9 Comments »
The jacarandas are heralding spring’s approach.
Bathing in the purple rain as the blossoms fall…
Many thanks to Tatsugoro Matsumoto, one of the first Japanese immigrants to Mexico, for recommending to President Álvaro Obregón that jacaranda trees from Brazil be planted in Mexico City.
Now, throughout Mexico, underneath the purple rain we walk. And, this time of year, I always smile, remember, and begin humming Prince’s Purple Rain and Jimi’s Purple Haze.
Guys and gals of Prepa 6
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Education, Parks & Plazas, Travel & Tourism, tagged Cuaresma, Lent, Llano Park, Mexico, Oaxaca, Paseo de los Viernes de Cuaresma, Paseo Juárez el Llano, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, students, teenagers, Viernes del Llano on February 26, 2018| 2 Comments »
They came, they saw, they styled, and they carried flowers! This past Friday, it was the turn of Prepatoria No. 6 to continue the “only in Oaxaca tradition” of Viernes del Llano — aka, Paseo Juárez el Llano or Paseo de los Viernes de Cuaresma.
For the first five Friday mornings of Lent, young women in their second, fourth, and sixth semesters at the prepatorias (grades 10-12 in the USA) of the Universidad Autónoma Benito Juárez de Oaxaca (UABJO), circle the statue of Benito Juárez in Llano Park, collecting bouquets of flowers, in this 45-year old tradition that traces its origin back to the nineteenth century — some say, even further.
There seemed to be a record number of young women this week — at least 30 — being cheered on by their families and home room supporters and ably assisted by their male flower-carriers.
Yes, there are winners in various categories (I think, largest number of flowers collected, most photogenic, best social media, and one or two others) and an overall “Madrina del Viernes” (Godmother of Friday) is chosen. However, all seem to leave in great spirits — and blogger buddy Chris has even spotted a few down at the local salón de billar shooting a little pool later in the morning.
Murals inside & out
Posted in Buildings, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged basketball, gymnasium, iconic imagery, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, San Pablo Villa de Mitla, wall art on January 26, 2018| 6 Comments »
A day late, but not a dollar short, I finally made my way to the San Francisco Bay Area a week and a half ago. The days have been filled with family, friends, and appointments. However, today there was nothing on the agenda, I was worn out from all the activities, and baby it was cold outside. Thus, time to look back through photos earmarked for blog posts that had gone unwritten.
Leaving San Pablo Villa de Mitla after shopping for Pan de Muertos during Day of the Dead, we took a different route out of town and discovered a gymnasium with murals on the walls, both outside…
… and inside. Traditional, political, and colorful imagery to inspire playing your best!
You just never know what you will find when you take the road less traveled.
Exasperated!
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged garbage, graffiti, Jonkye Feral, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, street art, trash bag, wall art on January 10, 2018| 6 Comments »
Rabanos redux
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Holidays, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged dried corn husks, Mexico, Moisés Ruiz Sosa, Navidad, Night of the Radishes, Noche de Rabanos, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Totomoxtle on January 3, 2018| 18 Comments »
I hope you will permit me just one more Noche de Rabanos (Night of the Radishes) post. The Totomoxtle Decorado category wouldn’t be complete without showing this year’s entry, “Los huehuentones de Huautla de Jiménez” by Moisés Ruíz Sosa, last year’s first prize winner, who just happens to be the brother of this year’s winner, Marco Antonio Ruíz Sosa.
Much of the work by Moisés, at least that I have seen, uses natural and dyed corn husks to recreate traditional dance scenes. This year’s inspiration came from the Mazateco Day of the Dead celebrations.
After the souls are released, their spirits are transformed into different forms personified by the Huehuentones (people of the navel — born from the center of the earth) who serve as a link between the departed and the living.
Beginning October 27, they roam the streets and visit families, house by house, to play and sing Mazatec themes of family, famine, traditions, customs, current events, politics, etc.
What captivates me most is the attention to detail and reverence for traditions by Moisés.
Learning their craft from their mother, Moisés and Marco are a couple of very talented brothers!
Lovely Oaxaca 2017
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Año Nuevo, agave, buildings, Chapulines, chicken on a spit, dried chiles, fog, garbage trucks, grilling, Linda Oaxaca song, metate, Mexico, molinillo, Museo Textil de Oaxaca, New Year's Eve, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Quinceañera, Shibori, traje on December 31, 2017| 20 Comments »
A challenging year 2017 was — for Oaxaca, Mexico, USA, and the world. However, lovely Oaxaca continues to survive with beauty and grace and helps keep me focused on trying to do the same. I am grateful to her every day. Thus, my New Year’s gift to you — sharing a month-by-month look back at the little things in 2017 that nourished my body and soul.
January 2017 – Shibori flags flying over the courtyard of the Museo Textil de Oaxaca
February 2017 – Agave somewhere between San Dionisio Ocotepec and Ocotlán de Morelos
March 2017 – Quinceañera celebration in front of Santo Domingo de Guzmán
April 2017 – Chapulines at the first Encuentro de Cocineras Tradicionales Oaxaca
May 2017 – Teotitlán del Valle’s garbage truck.
June 2017 – Grinding lime tree leaves for té de limon in Teotitlán del Valle
July 2017 – Six layer rainy season view from Casita Colibrí
August 2017 – Unión de Palenqueros de Oaxaca — and that means mezcal!
September 2017 – Chickens roasting at earthquake relief benefit at Criollo restaurant
October 2017 – Grilling at an outdoor “hall of smoke” in Villa de Mitla
November 2017 – Dried chiles at Mercado Benito Juárez
December 2017 – Decorated molinillos at the Feria del Pan y el Chocolate in Tlacolula de Matamoros
In the words of Linda Oaxaca, “Oaxaca you live in me.” From my home to yours, adiós 2017 and bienvenidos 2018!!!
Noche de Rabanos winners
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged dried corn husks, dried flower art, flor inmortal, Mexico, music, Navidad, Night of the Radishes, Noche de Rabanos, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, radishes, Totomoxtle on December 28, 2017| 7 Comments »
I always prefer to go down to Oaxaca’s zócalo in the morning of December 23rd to watch the Noche de Rábanos artisans bring their creations into being — and before the masses descend. At this year’s 120th annual Rábanos the crowds had already begun to gather behind the barriers by 10:30 AM. Of course, the downside to going early is that some of the artisans are further along in their work than others.
Alas, in the category of Rábanos Tradicional (radishes representing traditional subject matter), the eventual first prize winner had only just begun…
“Nacimiento Tradicional” by Hermenegildo Contreras Cruz
However, when I passed by, the eventual first prize winner in the category of Rábanos Libre (radishes free subject matter) was almost finished and the dragon was about to be slayed.
“Corazón de Dragón” by Salvador Yrizar Díaz
In the Flor Inmortal (dried flower) category… How could I have missed 2/3rds of the entries?!! However, I did manage to capture the 2nd prize winner.
“Una tarde en el Templo de Santo Domingo” by Rosalía Santiago Cornelio
Then there was the Totomoxtle (corn husks)… Second place in the Totomoxtle Natural (natural husk color) category went to this delightful depiction of Oaxaca’s version of a county fair that even included a House of Horror and a Tilt-A-Whirl.
“Feria Popular” by Jorge Ramos Gallegos
First place in the category of Totomoxtle Natural was awarded to…
“Buscando la paz hastati. Virgencita de Juquila” by José Méndez Miranda
And, what can I say about “Nahualli” by Marco Antonio Ruíz Sosa, the winner of the Totomoxtle Decorado (dyed corn husks)?
Do you think Lewis Carroll was channeling shadow souls when he wrote Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland? Kenneth Grahame when he wrote The Wind in the Willows? Was C. S. Lewis guided by a nahualli when he wrote The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe? And, what about Beatrix Potter???
Pancho Claus wishes to all
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged 'Twas the Night Before Christmas, Christmas decorations, Christmas Eve, Christmas traditions, Christmas tree, Eduardo Guerrero, Ernie Villarreal, Mexico, Noche de Rabanos, Nochebuena, Oaxaca, Pancho Claus, photographs, photos, piñata, poem, popular travel destinations, radishes on December 24, 2017| 10 Comments »
May Ernie Villarreal’s version of Pancho Claus by Chicano music legend, Eduardo “Lalo” Guerrero, bring the gift of joy to those near and far on this Nochebuena.
Noche de Rabanos
Noche de Rabanos
Pancho Claus
‘Twas the night before Christmas and all through la casa
Not a creature was stirring, Caramba! ¿Que pasa?
Los ninos were all tucked away in their camas,
Some in vestidos and some in pajamas.
While Mama worked late in her little cocina,
El viejo was down at the corner cantina.
The stockings were hanging con mucho cuidado,
In hopes that St. Nicholas would feel obligado
To bring all the children, both buenos y malos,
A Nice batch of dulces and other regalos.
Outside in the yard, there arouse such a grito,
That I jumped to my feet, like a frightened cabrito.
I went to the window and looked out afuera,
And who in the world, do you think que era?
Saint Nick in a sleigh and a big red sombrero
Came dashing along like a crazy bombero!
And pulling his sleigh instead of venados,
Were eight little burros approaching volados.
I watched as they came, and this little hombre
Was shouting and whistling and calling by nombre.
¡Ay, Pancho! ¡Ay, Pepe! ¡Ay, Cuca! ¡Ay, Beto!
¡Ay, Chato! ¡¡Ay, Chopo! ¡Maruca and ¡Nieto!
Then standing erect with his hand on his pecho
He flew to the top of our very own techo.
With his round little belly like a bowl of jalea,
He struggled to squeeze down our old chimenea.
Then huffing and puffing, at last in our sala,
With soot smeared all over his red suit de gala.
He filled the stockings with lovely regalos,
For none of the children had been very malos.
Then chuckling aloud and seeming contento,
He turned like a flash and was gone like the viento.
And I heard him exclaim and this is VERDAD,
Merry Christmas to all, And to all ¡Feliz Navidad!
Piñata over Teotitlán del Valle
Christmas tree on the Alameda in Oaxaca city
Felices fiestas to all my wonderful readers — you and Oaxaca inspire me each and every day!!!
Familiar figures in the radishes
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Francisco Toledo, Mexico, Navidad, Night of the Radishes, Noche de Rabanos, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Señor del Rayo, Zeny Fuentes on December 23, 2017| Leave a Comment »
I think I spied some familiar figures in the radishes at this year’s Noche de Rabanos. Could this be carver, Zeny Fuentes?
“Alebrijes de San Martín Tilcajete” by Sergio Luís Raymundo Sánchez
Oaxaqueños can tell you, this is their own, Señor del Rayo.
“Señor del Rayo” by Gabriela Nayelly López Vásquez
And then there is this guy. I’m guessing Maestro Francisco Toledo.
“Oaxaca de mis amores” by Omar Díaz Ventura
What do you think?
Night of the Radishes is coming
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Christmas, Mexico, Navidad, Night of the Radishes, Noche de Rabanos, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on December 22, 2017| 6 Comments »
The 120th edition of the “only in Oaxaca” Noche de Rábanos is coming. Tomorrow (December 23) the zócalo will be filled with radishes carved into religious, cultural, and fantastical creations.
Scenes from last year…
And, it’s not just a night of radishes, there will also be flor inmortal (a type of dried flower) and totomoxtle (corn husk) artisan creations on display and competing for prizes. Not to be missed!
Honoring a queen
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Basilica de la Soledad, Cuadrilla de Mascaritas de Nochixtlán, dance, Oaxaca, Patrona de los Oaxaqueños, photographs, photos, Plaza de la Danza, popular travel destinations, Queen of Oaxaca, Virgen de La Soledad, Virgin of Solitude on December 19, 2017| 9 Comments »
All is quiet now, but for the last few days (and nights!) there has been no solitude for Soledad, or her neighbors (of which I am one). For several days leading up to December 18, the feast day of the Queen of Oaxaca, La Santísima Virgen de La Soledad (Virgin of Solitude), Oaxaca has been celebrating. For those unaware of this virgencita, Soledad is adored and venerated in a manner similar to the Virgin of Guadalupe and is carried through the streets of Oaxaca (both city and state) during many religious celebrations.
Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad
She resides in the church dedicated to her, the Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad. Designed by Father Fernando Méndez, construction began in 1682, it was sanctioned by the Viceroy Tomas Aquino Manrique de la Cerda, and consecrated in 1690 by Bishop Isidro Siraña y Cuenca.
Castillo spelling out, “Viva La Virgen de la Soledad” (Long live the Virgin of Solitude) and “Nuestra Senora de Oaxaca” (Our Lady of Oaxaca).
Being that this is Mexico and Catholicism is tempered (enriched) with indigenous practice, the night of December 17, after religious rites and rituals were performed at said Basilica, there were fireworks in the church atrium, including toritos and a castillo, in honor of La Reina de Oaxaca. Despite the late hour, I managed to leave the comfort of my rooftop and head over to the Plaza de la Danza to watch — and they were spectacular, as always.
Many of the faithful spent the night in the Basilica’s atrium.
Alas, I didn’t have any energy left to stay and hear the Universidad Autónoma Benito Juárez de Oaxaca (Benito Juárez Autonomous University of Oaxaca) Tuna band serenade Soledad with a concert inside the Basilica at midnight. Silly me! I was dozing off to sleep at midnight when the Basilica’s bells began chiming furiously and cohetes (rockets) sounded and I woke with a start. Next year, I’m staying up!
Prayers before the La Virgen de la Soledad.
Sleep finally returned, only to be interrupted about 4:15 AM with more cohetes and a band and then again around 6:30 AM. Needless to say, I gave up on sleep and got up. All during the night La Virgen was not alone. The faithful, coming from near and far, spent the night in the atrium of the church, food stalls set up on the stairs leading down to the church fed one and all, and live music entertained her all night long.
The ever-present vendors selling flowers to the faithful.
Like most, her story has several versions. According to one legend, in 1620 a mule train bound for Guatemala camped outside the city of Oaxaca, discovered an extra mule which did not belong to anyone in the group. The mule refused to move and when prodded rolled over and died. When the pack it carried was opened, it was found to contain the statue of La Virgen de la Soledad. Taking this as a sign from heaven, the inhabitants built a shrine, later a church, and finally the imposing Basilica.
Food vendors lined the stairs down to the Basilica’s atrium.
In another story, a muleteer from Veracruz, en route to Guatemala, noticed he had one too many mules in his pack upon his arrival in Oaxaca. Outside the San Sebastian hermitage, the mule collapsed under the burden it was carrying. All attempts by the muleteer to get it back on its feet were futile; to avoid punishment, he notified the authorities. When he lifted the load off the mule, it got up but then immediate died. The burden was inspected and an image of the Virgin, accompanied by Christ, along with a sign that said, “The Virgin by the Cross.” Faced with this momentous event, Bishop Bartolome Bohorquez ordered a sanctuary to be built in honor of the divinity.
La Santísima Virgen de La Soledad inside the Basilica wearing her gold, diamond, and pearl encrusted vestments.
Still another legend: a heavily laden burro of mysterious origin appeared outside of town in 1534, fell to the ground, spilling its load next to a rock (still on-site) containing the beautifully carved Virgin (thought to be carved in Guatemala or the Philippines) and a chapel was built on the spot. However, apparently there was an adobe shrine to the Virgin of Solitude atop Cerro Fortín as early as 1532 — and the rock may have even been moved from the mountain in 1617 to the current site (immediately to the right as you enter the Basilica).
La Santísima Virgen de La Soledad (body double) under the tree in the atrium of the Basilica — wearing the traveling attire.
Her vestments are encrusted with pearls and 600 diamonds — and she wears a 4-lb gold crown. As all that bling is quite heavy and valuable, she has a body double who wears a velvet mantle and crown that aren’t quite so ostentatious. It is she who is carried through the streets during processions and has been residing in the church atrium during the festivities in her honor.
Cuadrilla de mascaritas from Asunción Nochixtlán.
El diablo seducing an audience member
Cuadrilla de mascaritas from Asunción Nochixtlán.
All was not completely serious yesterday at the Basilica — there was also entertainment. In the late afternoon, Soledad was treated to a command performance by the Cuadrilla de Mascaritas from Asunción Nochixtlán, in the Mixteca. I had never seen nor heard of this dance before. According to this article (in Spanish), in 1865, a year after the defeat of the Franco-Austrian army at Las Tres Cruces (between Santo Domingo Yanhuitlán and Asunción Nochixtlán) by the joint forces of the Mixtecs and General Porfirio Diáz, Mixtecos commemorated the victory with the mascaritas dance, which ridiculed the supposedly invincible enemy. I learn something new every day!
Celebrating Soledad
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged angels, Basilica de la Soledad, calenda, Mexico, Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, Oaxaca, parade, Patrona de los Oaxaqueños, photographs, photos, Plaza de la Danza, popular travel destinations, Queen of Oaxaca, Virgen de La Soledad, Virgin of Solitude on December 16, 2017| 2 Comments »
Tonight, the streets of Oaxaca are alive with the sound of music and cohetes (rockets) as a calenda (parade) in honor of Nuestra Señora de la Soledad (Our Lady of Solitude) celebrates the approach of the feast day of the mother, queen, and patroness of Oaxaca.
A young Soledad making the rounds on a float.
Accompanied by an angel.
Monos taking a break in front of the Basilica de la Soledad.
There will be no solitude for Soledad during the next couple of days and nights. If you don’t believe me, check out her festival schedule.
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