Sitting on a wall, high above Av. Independencia in Oaxaca city…
Tears welled up as I watched the march go by.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Education, Politics, Protests, Tragedy, Violence, tagged Ayotzinapa, Caravana de Ayotzinapa, Democracy Now, demonstrations, graffiti, Guerrero, Iguala, Mexico, Mexico Burns as Outrage over Student Disappearances Sparks Protests Against State-Backed Violence, Normal Rural Ayotzinapa, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, protests, Santo Domingo de Guzmán, sidewalk memorial, signs, students, Teachers on November 16, 2014| 2 Comments »
The headline, Mexico Burns as Outrage over Student Disappearances Sparks Protests Against State-Backed Violence, from the Nov. 13 “Democracy Now” show, is not an overstatement. Yesterday, in front of Santo Domingo…
The Caravana de Ayotzinapa, one of three caravans by the parents and supporters of the missing 43 students from the Escuela Normal Rural Raúl Isidro Burgos teachers’ college in Ayotzinapa, Guerrero, is scheduled to arrive in Oaxaca tomorrow morning (Nov. 17). A procession from the crucero at Trinidad de Viguera to the zócalo in Oaxaca is scheduled to begin at 9 AM. Given the prohibition against foreigners participating in political activity, as much as I would like to be there, I’ll be sticking close to home.
However, for my friends in the USA, check out photographer and writer Tim Porter’s article, #43; there are demonstrations coming to a city near you. Tim is a frequent visitor to Oaxaca and, for my Marin peeps, his articles and photographs regularly appear in Marin Magazine.
Posted in Flora, Gardens, People, Science & Nature, Travel & Tourism, tagged flora, flowers, gardens, La Encantada, Mexico, Oaxaca, Oaxaca Garden Club, Octavio Gabriel, orchids, Orquideario, Orquideario "La Encantada", photographs, photos, plants, popular travel destinations, San Andrés Huayapam on November 13, 2014| 7 Comments »
Yesterday, I walked through an enchanted garden…
Along with about 25+ other people from the Oaxaca Garden Club, I made my way to an orchid garden in San Andrés Huayapam.






What a treasure the privately funded, Orquideario “La Encantada” is! For owner/gardener/collector, Octavio Gabriel, it is a 40+ year old passion and labor of love — and it shows.






The earthen pathways lead one up and down, through dappled light, along the slopes of a babbling brook. The orquideario is sanctuary to about 1,200 species of orchids, along with companion epiphytes, ferns, bromeliads, and even a bamboo forest.






Orquideario “La Encantada” is located at the end of a dirt road off to the right, about 1 km beyond the presas (reservoirs), towards the village of San Andrés Huayapam.






The 100 pesos admission fee helps finance the orquideario. I plan to return! Octavio Gabriel’s book, Algunas Orquideas de Oaxaca is available to purchase for 350 pesos.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged Antonio Ruiz Gonzalez, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, rugs, tapetes, Teotitlán del Valle, weavers, weaving on November 10, 2014| 13 Comments »
When it seems as if we are surrounded by fear, hatred, and violence, it’s good to step back, look around, and remind ourselves that there is also generosity, love, and beauty in this world. And so I give you my exquisite new mohair tapete (rug), custom woven for me by Antonio Ruiz Gonzalez. It turned out even more beautiful than I imagined!
Here is Antonio (on the left) in front of my new rug with his delightful family, including his brother Sergio (on the right) — from whom I’ve bought several small tapetes. More about the latter, later! Should you find yourself in Teotitlán del Valle, do stop by the family workshop (Av. Juárez No. 107), where Antonio, Sergio, and their father Zacarías weave their magic.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Education, Exhibitions, Music, People, Politics, Tragedy, Violence, tagged art, Arturo Leyva, Ayotzinapa, Donde está mi hermano?, Escuela Normal Rural, graphic arts, Guerrero, Iguala, illustrations, Mexico, Normal Rural Ayotzinapa, paintings, photo montage, photos, portraits, profiles, songs, students, teachers’ college, video on November 8, 2014| 9 Comments »
A beautiful photo montage and song by Arturo Leyva honoring the 43 students of the Escuela Normal Rural Raúl Isidro Burgos, teachers’ college in Ayotzinapa, Guerrero.
The video uses some of the #IlustradoresConAyotzinapa illustrations, paintings, and embroidery by Mexican designers, artists, and artisans of the faces of the 43 student teachers of Ayotzinapa.
In addition, journalist París Martínez has developed profiles of the 43 disappeared students by talking with their families and friends.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Education, People, Politics, Protests, Tragedy, Violence, tagged Ayotzinapa, David Huerta, Emiliano Navarrete, exhibitions, graffiti, Guerrero, Iguala, Mexico, Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Oaxaca, Normal Rural Ayotzinapa, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, signs, students on November 7, 2014| 10 Comments »
Tomorrow, it will be 43 days since the 43 students at the Escuela Normal Rural Raúl Isidro Burgos, teachers’ college in Ayotzinapa, Guerrero went missing. Images of the missing are being posted online and on walls.
Oaxaca, along with the rest of Mexico, is heartbroken and outraged that her sons have not been found. “We are not sheep to be killed whenever they feel like it” Emiliano Navarrete, father of one of the missing students, declared following a meeting with Mexico’s president, Enrique Peña Nieto.
As the brilliant Día de los Muertos colors of cempasúchil (marigolds), cresta de gallo (celosia or cockscomb), and roses began to fade, a massive march, led by the parents of the missing, filled the streets of Mexico City on November 5.
And, Oaxaca continues to add her voice on walls, in the streets, and at the Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Oaxaca (MACO).
… where a beautiful poem, simply entitled “Ayotzinapa,” fills one of the walls of the courtyard.
Mordemos la sombra
Y en la sombra
Aparecen los muertos
Como luces y frutos
Como vasos de sangre
Como piedras de abismo
Como ramas y frondas
De dulces vísceras
Los muertos tienen manos
Empapadas de angustia
Y gestos inclinados
En el sudario del viento
Los muertos llevan consigo
Un dolor insaciable
Esto es el país de las fosas
Señoras y señores
Este es el país de los aullidos
Este es el país de los niños en llamas
Este es el país de las mujeres martirizadas
Este es el país que ayer apenas existía
Y ahora no se sabe dónde quedó
Estamos perdidos entre bocanadas
De azufre maldito
Y fogatas arrasadoras
Estamos con los ojos abiertos
Y los ojos los tenemos llenos
De cristales punzantes
Estamos tratando de dar
Nuestras manos de vivos
A los muertos y a los desaparecidos
Pero se alejan y nos abandonan
Con un gesto de infinita lejanía
El pan se quema
Los rostros se queman arrancados
De la vida y no hay manos
Ni hay rostros
Ni hay país
Solamente hay una vibración
Tupida de lágrimas
Un largo grito
Donde nos hemos confundido
Los vivos y los muertos
Quien esto lea debe saber
Que fue lanzado al mar de humo
De las ciudades
Como una señal del espíritu roto
Quien esto lea debe saber también
Que a pesar de todo
Los muertos no se han ido
Ni los han hecho desaparecer
Que la magia de los muertos
Está en el amanecer y en la cuchara
En el pie y en los maizales
En los dibujos y en el río
Demos a esta magia
La plata templada
De la brisa
Entreguemos a los muertos
A nuestros muertos jóvenes
El pan del cielo
La espiga de las aguas
El esplendor de toda tristeza
La blancura de nuestra condena
El olvido del mundo
Y la memoria quebrantada
De todos los vivos
Ahora mejor callarse
Hermanos
Y abrir las manos y la mente
Para poder recoger del suelo maldito
Los corazones despedazados
De todos los que son
Y de todos
Los que han sido
David Huerta
2 de noviembre de 2014. Oaxaca

Update: Just hours after posting this, the worst has been announced. According to Mexico’s attorney general, “The 43 Mexican students who disappeared near Iguala, in southern Mexico in September, were kidnapped by police on order of the mayor, and turned over to a gang that killed them and burned their bodies before throwing the remains in a river….” — CNN
I can’t even begin to imagine the pain the parents must be feeling with the knowledge of the suffering and brutality their sons endured. I am so sad and tears are welling up. I think I will just let them fall…
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged calacas, calaveras, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, skeletons on October 31, 2014| 7 Comments »
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Sports & Recreation, Travel & Tourism, tagged altar, baseball, Casita Colibrí, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, flowers, Mexico, Oaxaca, ofrenda, pan de muerto, photographs, photos, San Francisco Giants, sugar skulls, World Series on October 30, 2014| 6 Comments »
Visits to mercados in the city and Tlacolula have been made. Along with mandarinas and manzanas, cempasuchil and cresta de gallo have been purchased.
Pan de muerto has been selected…
A calaverita has been chosen…
Mezcal and water have been poured, dishes of chocolate and salt prepared, candles brought out, and photos of departed family and friends and a few of their favorite things have been collected. Yesterday, it was time to prepare my ofrenda.
As dusk descended, friends gathered; the candles and copal were lit…
And we offered our silent — and sometimes not so silent — prayers to the baseball spirits to bring victory to the San Francisco Giants in game 7 of the World Series.
The spirits listened!!! Thinking of you, grandpa….
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Day of the, La Festividad de los Muertos, Mexico, Oaxaca, ofrenda, photographs. Día de los muertos, photos, Teotitlán del Valle on October 26, 2014| 2 Comments »
Los disfuntos (the departed) are returning in less than a week. I’m sorting through photos for a friend who is giving a presentation at the Oaxaca Lending Library, on Día de los Muertos in Teotitlán del Valle, and realized I never got around to posting these…

Bells of Templo de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo ring over the village during Muertos.
Posted in Education, Parks & Plazas, Politics, Protests, Tragedy, Violence, tagged Ayotzinapa, Guerrero, Iguala, Normal Rural Ayotzinapa, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, signs, students, zócalo on October 24, 2014| 2 Comments »
As an extranjera (foreigner), I can do nothing more than observe…
report…
and feel.
Signs on the Alameda and zócalo this week.
Posted in Culture, Parks & Plazas, People, Sports & Recreation, Travel & Tourism, tagged baseball, beisbol, Lou Seal, mascots, Mexico, mural, Oaxaca, Oaxaca Guerreros, photographs, photos, San Francisco, San Francisco Giants, stadiums, street art, Tato, wall art, World Series, Yusmeiro Petit on October 21, 2014| 8 Comments »
Tonight, from the valley where corn was first cultivated, I’ll be watching my San Francisco Giants play game one of Major League Baseball’s, 2014 World Series.
I was amazed to discover that one of San Francisco’s ace relief pitchers, Yusmeiro Petit, the Giants’ do-everything man, played for the Oaxaca Guerreros in 2011!!! The Guerreros, a Triple-A team in the Mexican League play at Estadio Eduardo Vasconcelos, within walking distance (albeit, a long walk) from my apartment. I attended several of the Guerreros’ games in 2011 and, who knows, maybe I saw him.
When I was in Mexico, I always said to myself, “This is going to be my goal, to go back to the United States and be successful,” said Petit, through a translator. “I always knew that this could happen. I didn’t know how it was going to happen, but I knew this could happen.” (from article, Giants’ do-everything man Petit ready for any task)
And, from another article:
Petit thinks his experience with the Oaxaca Warriors was crucial in his career surge. In Mexico he learned to mix his pitches and mastered the curve. “I was in a slump, which happens to anyone,” he said. “But in Mexico I learned that I had to work harder to keep going and to reach what I was looking for, which was to come back (to the majors) and stay here.”
¡Felicidades Yusmeiro Petit y vamos Gigantes!
Posted in Sports & Recreation, Transportation, Travel & Tourism, tagged bicicleta, bicis, bicycles, bike lanes, bike racks, bike riders, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos on October 19, 2014| 6 Comments »
In the 5+ years that I have been living here, Oaxaca has become much more bike friendly. It’s a good thing too, because traffic, even without the bloqueos (blockades), has gotten much worse. I mentioned last Sunday we had to detour due to a bike race and passed these spandex warriors, out for a Sunday ride.
In the city, the narrow streets, often with double-parked vehicles, weren’t designed for a growing middle class and their desire for cars. However, poco a poco (little by little), accommodations are being made to achieve a modicum of safety and peaceful co-existence between cars and bikes. Bike racks began appearing in early summer.
And, much to my amazement, a couple of weeks ago, I saw actual bike lanes. Wonders will never cease!!!
However, I’m not exactly sure what someone is trying to say, here. (Update: thanks to some helpful blog readers, I have sadly been informed, “a white bike is put where someone has been killed on a bike. They are called “ghost bikes”.
Bike on, mis amigas y amigos… even in the rain… Mother Nature will thank you!
If you are in Oaxaca and like to ride, you might want to check out “Oaxaca es más bella en bicicleta” (Oaxaca is More Beautiful on a Bicycle) on Wednesdays and Fridays from 9 PM to 10:30 PM. They meet in front of Santo Domingo church. There is also a Sunday ride from the city to Santa María del Tule.
Update: Larry G. reminded me that OaxacaMTB.org is a great resource for those interested in mountain biking in Oaxaca.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Mexico, mural, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, street art, urban art, wall art on October 17, 2014| 3 Comments »
What can I say? I guess I have become a true Oaxaqueña — at least when it comes to temperatures below 70ºF. Doors and windows have been closed all day, I’m wearing wool socks and a sweater, and space heater is on. (Note to self: Heater and toaster-oven cannot be turned on at the same time.) Oaxaca is being visited by Tropical Depression Twenty-e (now, upgraded to Tropical Storm Trudy), the temperatures haven’t risen above 64ºF, and it’s been drizzling ALL day!!! Trying to channel butterflies, blossoms, and sun flowers… even if they are blue!
Mural on the wall across from the mercado Sanchez Pascuas on Tinoco y Palacios.