Ahhh… a return visit to Centro de las Artes de San Agustín in early December still resonates. The CASA, a former spinning and weaving factory, was re-imagined by artist Francisco Toledo and architect Claudina Morales Lopez. Now it is one of the most aesthetically pleasing spaces I’ve ever experienced. But, why have I never before noticied this?
Inside and outside, seen in black and white or color, wherever one looks, the attention to detail and design strikes, delights, and often surprises.
If it’s November 2nd, it must be morning muerteada madness in San Agustín Etla . A few faces in the crowd from the Barrio San José contingent…
These guys had been dancing through the streets all night. Cervesa seemed to be the beverage of choice this morning, though, bottles of clear liquid was also being passed around — and I’m sure it wasn’t water!
Had to snap this guy — not only was his makeup gory and great, he topped it off with a San Francisco 49er cap.
And, then there was this boy… As with all the traditions here, children observe, learn, and participate at a very young age.
One of the stops while my gal pals were visiting two weeks ago was the Centro de las Artes de San Agustín (CASA), in San Agustín Etla. This re-imagined former textile factory is one of the most esthetically pleasing spaces I’ve ever experienced.
Even the recycling bins are exquisitely designed and placed!
It’s been a magnificent Muertos filled with memorable moments and special people, along with a feast for ALL the senses. An initial pass through the photos has weeded them down to 450. Yikes! Lots more weeding and processing to do. In the meantime, here is a snapshot from the past 5 days.
Muerteada – San José el Mogote Etla – early morning Nov. 2, 2013.
Chapel, panteón, Teotitlán del Valle. Nov. 1, 2013
Panteón, San Antonino Castillo Velasco. Nov. 1, 2013
Panteón, San Antonino Castillo Velasco. Nov. 1, 2013
Panteón – Santa María Atzompa. Night of Oct. 31, 2013.
Comparsa in Oaxaca city. Evening of Oct. 31, 2013.
CEDART comparsa in Oaxaca city. Oct. 31, 2013.
CEDART comparsa, Oaxaca city. Oct. 31, 2013.
Tapete de arena (sand painting) in front of CEDART. Oct. 31, 2013.
Muertos flower vendors at Sanchez Pascuas. Oct. 31, 2013.
Tapete de arena (sand painting), Plaza de la Danza. Oct. 30, 2013.
Bar upstairs from Los Danzantes restaurant. Oct. 30, 2013.
Decorating Avenida M. Hidalgo entrance to San Pablo Cultural Center. Oct. 30, 2013.
High school recycled products comparsa. Oct. 29, 2013.
And the magic continues today, when we return to San Antonino Castillo Velasco.
You might well ask, “What is a muerteada?” It is a comparsa (parade) that is part of traditional Día de los Muertos celebrations particular to the state of Oaxaca. According to the book, Day of the Dead: When Two Worlds Meet in Oaxaca, the muerteada allows the dead “to ‘occupy’ a living body, either a muerteada participant or an audience member, for a time, and therefore enjoy the entertainment directly rather than vicariously.”
Like Commedia dell’Arte, there are stock characters — in this case, the happy widow, the dying or dead husband, the father of the widow, a doctor, a priest, a shaman, people dressed like death, devils, and las lloronas (weeping women). However, unlike Commedia dell’Arte, in the muerteada men play all the roles.
Last year we joined the Vista Hermosa, Etla murteado. However, this year blogger buddy Chris decided I was ready for the big time — the “battle of the bands” when the muerteadas of San Agustín Etla and Barrio San José meet — Banda Tromba Sinaloense for San Agustín and MonteVerde Banda for San José. FYI: This is after participants and their bands have danced their way up and down the hills of their respective neighborhoods all night long, stopping at designated houses for food and drink — mezcal and cervesas seemed to be the beverage of choice, especially among the men!
So, early on the Nov. 2, we went in search of the San Agustín contingent, we found them, joined in the merriment, were offered food and drink along the way, and eventually came to the crossroad where mania turned to mayhem, albeit organized mayhem — courtesy of the white-shirted security for San Agustín and red-shirted security for San José. They kept the dancers and supporters from each side apart, leaving the face-off to the two bands. It was wild!!! After 20+ minutes of battling bands, it was over and we and the San Agustín contingent trudged back up the hill.
You may have spotted a tall silver-haired gringo right in the middle of the action in one or two of the photos, that would be Chris. Be sure to check out the video he put together of all the madness.
According to Organizing Committee President, Alfredo Erick Pérez, the muerteada in San Agustín Etla dates back to the 1800s, possibly to the days of Mexican President Porfirio Díaz.
Mexican Peso Converter
View From Casita Colibrí 