In between the virgin days, it’s beginning to look a lot like Navidad in Oaxaca…
Piñatas on high at Mercado Benito Juárez.
Archive for the ‘Holidays’ Category
It’s beginning…
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Markets, Travel & Tourism, tagged Christmas decorations, Mercado Benito Juárez, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, piñata on December 15, 2014| 3 Comments »
Guadalupe is everywhere
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Parks & Plazas, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Templo de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe, Virgen de Guadalupe, Virgin of Guadalupe on December 12, 2014| 8 Comments »
Today is Guadalupe’s feast day. This Queen of Mexico, Empress of America, and patron saint of Mexico is being celebrated all over Mexico and, apparently for the first time in Vatican history, today Pope Francis to Say Mass in Honor of the Virgin of Guadalupe.
In Mexico, it’s not just a one-day event. Wednesday afternoon, while Chris and I were giving our previously mentioned presentation at the Oaxaca Lending Library, only blocks away festivities began with a religious ceremony at the Shrine of Our Lady of Guadalupe on the side of Llano Park. It was followed that night with a calenda through the streets of the city. Yesterday, Guadalupe’s children, the little Juan Diegos and their peasant sisters, were brought by parents (and grandparents) to the Templo de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe (at the north end of Llano Park), where they waited patiently in long lines to enter the church to be blessed and then be photographed in “Guadalupe” scenes.
However, on the streets of Oaxaca, Guadalupe is seen everywhere and everyday…
The other big news from Rome, that Oaxaqueños are celebrating, is the Wealth of Oaxaca craft present in the Vatican Museum — a Christmas tree and Nativity scene decorated with artesania crafted by 142 Oaxacan families from 25 municipalities in the state. The exhibition was inaugurated on December 10 and will run through February 2015 — should you be planning a trip to Italy!
Turkey day truths
Posted in Animals, Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Markets, Travel & Tourism, tagged Alice's Restaurant, El Día de Acción de Gracias, market day, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Thanksgiving, Tlacolula de Matamoros, turkeys on November 27, 2014| 1 Comment »
Seating for twenty-two has been scavenged from around the apartment complex, tables (three of which are borrowed) are covered with oilcloth and set with plastic cutlery, cranberry sauce has been made, stock for gravy is simmering on the stove top, and the turkey has been stuffed and is currently roasting in my little oven.
Turkey sellers on market day in Tlacolula de Matamoros, Oaxaca – Oct. 26, 2014.
Neighbors, a former neighbor, and the latter’s Oaxaqueño coworkers will be bringing another turkey, more stuffing, potatoes (mashed and sweet), pumpkin pies, and beverages. Now to put together a playlist which, naturally, will include Arlo Guthrie’s, Alice’s Restaurant Alice’s Restaurant Massacree — a turkey day family tradition since 1967.
Inevitably our guests will ask, “So what exactly does Thanksgiving celebrate?” Do we continue to pass along the myth or do we explain the inconvenient truth, “that the first official Thanksgiving Day celebrated the massacre of 700 Indian men, women and children during one of their religious ceremonies.”
Then there is the question, “How is this holiday celebrated in the USA?” The following holiday rituals will no doubt be described: Many televisions will be tuned to the annual Macy’s Thanksgiving Day parade of giant balloons and traditional turkey day football (North American) games. And, as soon as the last piece of pie has been eaten, growing numbers people will be racing to the nearest shopping mall or computer to take advantage of early-bird “Black Friday” pre-Christmas sales.
However, in between the above, there is always dining table conversation — catching-up stories, old and new jokes, loving reminiscences, and the occasional arguments over politics and/or religion. But, as the folks at the Presente.org Team wrote in an email to their subscribers this morning, for Latinos in the USA, “Thanksgiving dinner might be hard when you’re sitting across the table from a loved one who was left out of the President’s executive action. When the subject comes up, don’t drown your sorrows in a bottomless pitcher of gravy. We created a graphic to help you have that tricky conversation.”
Besides my wonderful family, friends, and blog readers, I am extremely grateful to be a guest in a country where, amidst the beauty and warmth of its people and land, it’s almost impossible to ignore awkward and difficult truths. ¡Feliz Día de Acción de Gracias a tod@s!
Paint it black
Posted in Celebrations, Education, Holidays, Politics, Protests, Tragedy, Violence, tagged #AccionGlobalporAyotzinapa, #TodosVestidosDeNegro, Ayotzinapa, Día de la Revolución, demonstrations, Global Day of Action for Ayotzinapa, Guerrero, Iguala, Mexico, Normal Rural Ayotzinapa, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, protests, Revolution Day, students on November 20, 2014| 2 Comments »
Today is the 104th anniversary of the Mexican Revolution. However, there is no joy; most of Mexico is in mourning for the missing 43 students and the anger is building. In Mexico City the military parade and celebrations will be moved from the Zócalo to a military installation in the Polanco neighborhood. A mass protest march will replace it.
Zócalo, Oaxaca de Juárez – Nov. 17, 2014
The country’s attention is focused on today’s Global Day of Action for Ayotzinapa. Many will wear black today to mourn the loss of students, journalists, and others to violence in Mexico. It is indeed a global event; Greek students have posted a video in support of the missing students and their families. They will be Standing in Solidarity in Salinas (California) and in at least 115 other cities around the world. And, in Oaxaca, among many other events, at 4 PM there will be a Festival Por la Vida at Santo Domingo, one of 231 actions listed on a Facebook page.
Faces in the crowd
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Barrio San José, comparsa, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Mexico, muerteada, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, San Agustín Etla, Valle de Etla on November 2, 2014| 2 Comments »
If it’s November 2nd, it must be morning muerteada madness in San Agustín Etla . A few faces in the crowd from the Barrio San José contingent…
These guys had been dancing through the streets all night. Cervesa seemed to be the beverage of choice this morning, though, bottles of clear liquid was also being passed around — and I’m sure it wasn’t water!
Had to snap this guy — not only was his makeup gory and great, he topped it off with a San Francisco 49er cap.
And, then there was this boy… As with all the traditions here, children observe, learn, and participate at a very young age.
Skeletons for Leo
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged calacas, calaveras, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, skeletons on October 31, 2014| 7 Comments »
An ofrenda prepared
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Sports & Recreation, Travel & Tourism, tagged altar, baseball, Casita Colibrí, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, flowers, Mexico, Oaxaca, ofrenda, pan de muerto, photographs, photos, San Francisco Giants, sugar skulls, World Series on October 30, 2014| 6 Comments »
Visits to mercados in the city and Tlacolula have been made. Along with mandarinas and manzanas, cempasuchil and cresta de gallo have been purchased.
Pan de muerto has been selected…
A calaverita has been chosen…
Mezcal and water have been poured, dishes of chocolate and salt prepared, candles brought out, and photos of departed family and friends and a few of their favorite things have been collected. Yesterday, it was time to prepare my ofrenda.
As dusk descended, friends gathered; the candles and copal were lit…
And we offered our silent — and sometimes not so silent — prayers to the baseball spirits to bring victory to the San Francisco Giants in game 7 of the World Series.
The spirits listened!!! Thinking of you, grandpa….
Virgins in our midst
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, People, Religion, Tragedy, Travel & Tourism, tagged Ayotzinapa, canastas, convite, Cristian Tomás Colón Garnica, Fiesta de la Virgen del Rosario, Guerrero, Iguala, marmotas, Mexico, Normal Rural Ayotzinapa, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, students, Tlacolula de Matamoros, Virgen de Juquila, Virgin of the Rosary on October 8, 2014| Leave a Comment »
Today, in Santa Catarina Juquila, about 200 km southwest of the city of Oaxaca, la Virgen de Juquila, is receiving a papal coronation. Roads leading to this remote mountain village have been repaired and repaved and extra emergency services have been in place since Monday, all in anticipation of the thousands of pilgrims who were expected to descend on Juquila.
However, for those who chose to stay closer to the city, celebrations in honor of the Virgen del Rosario (Virgin of the Rosary) have been occurring for the past week throughout the valley of Oaxaca.
Thus, blogger buddy Chris and I headed to Tlacolula de Matamoros on Friday for their annual procession.
Beginning on the street in front of the panteón, young women wearing traditional red wool skirts and beautifully crocheted white cotton blouses…
…danced their way through the streets balancing towering canastas (baskets) on their heads — the letters spelling out “Virgen del Rosario.”
The arm and neck strength it takes to carry the canastas is phenomenal and can only come from years of practice. As you can see, they begin early…
Rockets announced the procession’s arrival.
Bandas provided the music.
And, “boys to men” carrying marmotas two-stepped and twirled their way along the route.
Years of practice is required to do this, too!
Participants stop at altars throughout the village, where prayers are recited, rest breaks are taken, and tamales, sweets, and beverages (yes, including mezcal) are consumed.
This goes on until 1:00 or 2:00 AM. We arrived at 4:00 PM, stayed for a couple of hours, carried nothing heavier than our cameras and daypacks, and were ready to call it a day!
However, this is a bittersweet post. While we were reveling in the festivities, a family in Tlacolula de Matamoros was in agony. It was reported last night that 18-year old, Cristian Tomás Colón Garnica, from Tlacolula de Matamoros, is one of the 43 students at Normal Rural ‘Raúl Isidro Burgos’ in Ayotzinapa who went missing on September 26 in Iguala, Guerrero after police opened fire on the students, who were soliciting funds for an Oct. 2 demonstration protesting funding cuts to their state-financed school.
Faces of Oaxaca in B&W
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Andri Cauldwell quote, Black and white photography, Carnaval, Doña Marina, Guelaguetza, Mexico, Moctezuma, musicians, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Santiago Juxtlahuaca, Teotitlán del Valle, Tlacolula de Matamoros on September 19, 2014| 6 Comments »
After a visit to Centro Fotográfico Manuel Álvarez Bravo, I’m seeing the color of Oaxaca in black and white…
Moctezuma at La Guelaguetza in Etla, July 2014
Tlacolula de Matamoros, August 2014
Convite photo-op in Teotitlán del Valle, July 2014
Doña Marina at La Guelaguetza in Etla, July 2014
Santiago Juxtlahuaca delegation at Guelaguetza desfile in Oaxaca, July 2014
Carnaval in San Martín Tilcajete, March 2014
Guelaguetza desfile in Oaxaca, July 2014
“To see in color is a delight for the eye but to see in black and white is a delight for the soul.” – Andri Cauldwell
Independence Day
Posted in Celebrations, History, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged desfile, Mexican Independence Day, Mexico, military, Oaxaca, parade, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on September 16, 2014| 3 Comments »
Is it cheating to post photos from the 2013 Mexican Independence Day desfile in Oaxaca? What can I say? It was raining today and, if it counts for anything, I never got around to posting these photos last year.
However, I do have some news from this year: The state police staged a protest and, besides your’s truly, Governor Cue did not attend — and I don’t think it was the rain that stopped him!
Ready for el Grito
Posted in Culture, History, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged castillo, El Grito, el grito de dolores, Government Palace, Mexican flag, Mexican Independence, Mexican War of Independence, Mexico, Oaxaca, Palacio de Gobierno, photographs, photos, zócalo on September 15, 2014| 7 Comments »
My morning caller flew the coop and so did I. After being confined to quarters for the past several days due to the rain and gloom, I walked downtown.
Also, I was curious as to the state of the Zócalo, in light of the teachers, ambulantes, and the annual reenactment of “el Grito de Independencia” by the Governor, from the balcony of the Government Palace, at 11 PM tonight.
I found, except for a handful of tents and tarps, the Alameda and Zócalo were back to normal.
Castillos were being constructed on either side of the Government Palace.
And, like every year, the Mexican flag was flying high, green, white, and red lights and banners were strung, and images of the heroes of the Mexican War of Independence from Spain decorated the front of the Palacio de Gobierno
Most of the teachers and ambulantes have departed and all is being readied for el Grito de Independencia 2014. And, nobody seems to miss the State Police, who are staging a “work stoppage.” Ahhh, Oaxaca… Ya gotta love her!
El Grito de Independencia
¡Mexicanos!
¡Vivan los héroes que nos dieron la patria y libertad!
¡Viva Hidalgo!
¡Viva Morelos!
¡Viva Josefa Ortíz de Dominguez!
¡Viva Allende!
¡Viva Galeana y los Bravo!
¡Viva Aldama y Matamoros!
¡Viva la Independencia Nacional!
¡Viva México! ¡Viva México! ¡Viva México!
In English
Mexicans!
Long live the heroes that gave us the Fatherland (and liberty)!
Long live Hidalgo!
Long live Morelos!
Long live Josefa Ortiz de Dominguez!
Long live Allende!
Long live Galeana and the Bravos!
Long live Aldama and Matamoros!
Long live National Independence!
Long Live Mexico! Long Live Mexico! Long Live Mexico!
Boys watching girls
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged boys, convite, Fiesta a la Natividad de la Virgen María, Fiesta de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Teotitlán del Valle on September 13, 2014| 1 Comment »
During the aforementioned convites, you will find the boys of Teotitlán del Valle, Standing On the Corner watching all the girls go by. Not much has changed since The Four Lads had a hit with that song!
From my friend Samuel Bautista Lazo, who grew up in Teotitlán del Valle, “It’s funny to see boys with their cameras taking pictures and videos of the girls they like, often they watch the procession at one corner once they have seen everything, they run (or bike) as fast as they can to the other good spot to see all the girls again.” And, he knows from personal experience!
Like Sam, I wonder how many couples have gotten together??? Perhaps meeting at the fireworks a night later…
Convite in cochinilla
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged canastas, convite, danzantes, El Picacho, Fiesta a la Natividad de la Virgen María, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, procession, Teotitlán del Valle, Virgen de la Natividad on September 10, 2014| 4 Comments »
Defining the terms…
According to Harrap’s Spanish and English Pocket Dictionary, convite means reception. However, if I drag my weighty Larousse Standard Diccionario down from the shelf, convite translates to “invitation” or “banquet.” And, if one turns to Google or Bing translation programs, a convite is a “treat.”
All pretty much agree, the English translation for cochinilla is cochineal. As Wikipedia explains, “Cochineal is probably from French cochenille, Spanish cochinilla, Latin coccinus, meaning ‘scarlet-colored,’ and Latin coccum, meaning ‘berry (actually an insect) yielding scarlet dye.'” It has been called, A Perfect Red and was much sought after by Europeans. Home to said insect is the nopal cactus and guess who and where it was probably first cultivated? In the valley of Oaxaca by her indigenous people, long before the Spanish set foot on the continent.
Which brings us to last Saturday (September 6) in Teotitlán del Valle, under the watchful eye of el Picacho, the sacred brother/sister mountain, for the convite that precedes the Virgen de la Natividad (Nativity of Mary) festival day, held annually on September 8…
It is the custom in this Zapotec village for the unmarried women of the village to process through the streets two days before this (and a couple of other) important religious festivals, elegantly balancing handmade canastas (baskets), decorated with Catholic and Zapotec imagery, on their heads. They wear brightly embroidered blusas (blouses) and, in this village known worldwide for its weaving, enredos, hand-woven red wool wrap skirts — the yarn dyed red with cochinilla. They are accompanied by bands, men carrying enormous (and heavy!) marmotas (cloth globes), little boys carrying poles topped with miniature marmotas, sheep, and airplanes (the significance of the latter is a mystery to me), fearless pirotécnicas announcing the convite’s progress by shooting thunderous rockets into the air, and the dancers who will be performing the Danza de la Pluma in the church courtyard during the following two days’ of festivities.
Borrowing from the definitions above of convite, I would like to think of these processions as a lovely treat, an invitation to the impending fiestas/feast (banquet) days for the saints venerated by the village. The beauty of the welcoming faces of the young, old, male, and female in the convite provide a warm reception to villagers, visitors, Catholic saints, and Zapotec ancestors, alike.
Covered in green, white and red
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged celebrations, El Grito, El Mes de la Patria, Grito de Dolores, holidays, Jardín Sócrates, Mexican Independence Day, Mexico, neveria, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on September 6, 2014| Leave a Comment »
September is El Mes de la Patria in Mexico (the month of the homeland) and green, white, and red decorations have gone up all over the city. The governor is scheduled to recreate “El Grito” (the Cry of Dolores) from the balcony of the Government Palace at 11 PM on September 15. The following day, there will be an hour-plus long patriotic parade through the streets of the city celebrating Mexico’s independence from Spain.
Neverías in Jardín Socrates
The teachers’ planton (encampment) on the zócalo expanded again to adjacent streets yesterday, though it is supposed to end by September 9. Oaxaca is holding her collective breath.
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