September is El Mes de la Patria in Mexico (the month of the homeland) and Oaxaca is showing the colors. Green, white, and red is everywhere — from the almost sublime to the downright ridiculous!
¡Viva Mexico y salud!
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged El Grito, El Mes de la Patria, Mexican Independence Day, Mexico, Oaxaca, patriotism, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, street vendors on September 15, 2015| 6 Comments »
Posted in Culture, History, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged castillo, El Grito, el grito de dolores, Government Palace, Mexican flag, Mexican Independence, Mexican War of Independence, Mexico, Oaxaca, Palacio de Gobierno, photographs, photos, zócalo on September 15, 2014| 7 Comments »
My morning caller flew the coop and so did I. After being confined to quarters for the past several days due to the rain and gloom, I walked downtown.
Also, I was curious as to the state of the Zócalo, in light of the teachers, ambulantes, and the annual reenactment of “el Grito de Independencia” by the Governor, from the balcony of the Government Palace, at 11 PM tonight.
I found, except for a handful of tents and tarps, the Alameda and Zócalo were back to normal.
Castillos were being constructed on either side of the Government Palace.
And, like every year, the Mexican flag was flying high, green, white, and red lights and banners were strung, and images of the heroes of the Mexican War of Independence from Spain decorated the front of the Palacio de Gobierno
Most of the teachers and ambulantes have departed and all is being readied for el Grito de Independencia 2014. And, nobody seems to miss the State Police, who are staging a “work stoppage.” Ahhh, Oaxaca… Ya gotta love her!
El Grito de Independencia
¡Vivan los héroes que nos dieron la patria y libertad!
¡Viva Josefa Ortíz de Dominguez!
¡Viva Galeana y los Bravo!
¡Viva Aldama y Matamoros!
¡Viva la Independencia Nacional!
¡Viva México! ¡Viva México! ¡Viva México!
Long live the heroes that gave us the Fatherland (and liberty)!
Long live Hidalgo!
Long live Morelos!
Long live Josefa Ortiz de Dominguez!
Long live Allende!
Long live Galeana and the Bravos!
Long live Aldama and Matamoros!
Long live National Independence!
Long Live Mexico! Long Live Mexico! Long Live Mexico!
Posted in Holidays, Culture, Travel & Tourism, Celebrations, tagged Oaxaca, celebrations, Mexico, El Grito, Mexican Independence Day, Grito de Dolores, photos, photographs, popular travel destinations, Jardín Sócrates, neveria, holidays, El Mes de la Patria on September 6, 2014| Leave a Comment »
September is El Mes de la Patria in Mexico (the month of the homeland) and green, white, and red decorations have gone up all over the city. The governor is scheduled to recreate “El Grito” (the Cry of Dolores) from the balcony of the Government Palace at 11 PM on September 15. The following day, there will be an hour-plus long patriotic parade through the streets of the city celebrating Mexico’s independence from Spain.
The teachers’ planton (encampment) on the zócalo expanded again to adjacent streets yesterday, though it is supposed to end by September 9. Oaxaca is holding her collective breath.
Posted in Celebrations, History, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged El Grito, el grito de dolores, Grito de Dolores, Mexican flag, Mexican Independence Day, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos on September 15, 2013| 2 Comments »
At 11 PM tonight, with El Grito de Dolores, also known as El Grito de la Independencia (the Shout of Independence), echoing from government buildings throughout the country, Mexico begins celebrating her long and hard-fought independence from Spain. Despite the gathering of meteorological and political storm clouds, Oaxaca has gotten her green, white, and red on.
Doors are decorated, bunting is hung, and Mexico’s tricolor appears…
This proud yet faded flag with frayed edges seems a fitting symbol this year.
In the words of Che Guevara, “La lucha continua.”
Posted in Holidays, Labor, Politics, Protests, Weather, tagged current-events, demonstrations, El Grito, Frente Único de Lucha, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, politics, protests, San Juan Copala, Triqui on September 14, 2013| 2 Comments »
Yesterday, as today’s article in Noticias states, “with great dignity and head held high” the Triqui families from San Juan Copala pulled up stakes and moved to temporary housing in Colonia Reforma. The 105 displaced families had been occupying the front of the Government Palace for several years, but reached an agreement with the state government to relocate.
Meanwhile, on the east side of the Government Palace, the band played on… September is “La mes de la patria” (the month of the motherland). Tomorrow night, governor Gabino Cue will repeat El Grito de Independencia (the Cry of Independence) from the balcony of the Government Palace and Monday, an hours-long patriotic parade will pass in front of the Palace.
Today, the scene has changed. Members of the Frente Único de Lucha (FUL), the new incarnation of APPO, have taken up positions in front of the Government Palace and vowed to remain until those arrested in clashes with the federal police, on December 1 and yesterday in Mexico City, are released. Hmmm… I wonder what will happen tomorrow and/or Monday.
Just remember, when you read, hear, or watch the news… Chiapas, Guerrero, and Oaxaca are the most indigenous and poorest states in Mexico. And now, the tears of Mother Nature are raining down on Oaxaca.
Posted in Buildings, History, Holidays, People, tagged El Grito, Grito de Dolores, José María Morelos y Pavón, Mexican Independence Day, Mexico, Municipal Building, Oaxaca, Plaza de la Danza on September 16, 2012| 1 Comment »
As I write, it is late on September 15, and all over Mexico El Grito de Dolores, also known as El Grito de la Independencia (the Shout of Independence), is echoing from government buildings throughout the country, from the Palacio Nacional in Mexico City to Oaxaca’s Palacio de Gobierno to ayuntamientos (city halls) in small towns.
Portraits of the above listed heroes of Mexico’s War of Independence from Spain hang from the Government Palace in Oaxaca, as well as from the Municipal Building facing the Plaza de la Danza.
And, this year, José María Morelos y Pavón is honored with a second massive portrait on the outer wall of the Municipal Building. Last year, it was a reproduction of Orozco’s dramatic painting of Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Food, History, Holidays, Restaurants, Travel & Tourism, tagged Chiles en Nogada, El Grito, food, La Popular, Mexican Independence, Mexican War of Independence, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, restaurants on September 13, 2012| 9 Comments »
El Grito not only heralds green, white, and red decorations, clothing, and Mexican flags. It is also the season to savor the multi-layered, delicate flavors of Chiles en Nogada and delight in its colorful, patriotic presentation. Legend has it, the dish was created in 1821 by nuns in Puebla to honor a visit by Mexican General Augustín de Iturbide, that pretty much signaled the end of the eleven-year long Mexican War of Independence.
There are probably as many recipes for Chiles en Nogada as there are chefs and abuelas, but the basics include green poblano chiles stuffed with a picadillo of meats, fruits, nuts, herbs and spices; served with a creamy white cheese and walnut sauce; and topped with a garnish of red pomegranate seeds, walnuts, and the green of chopped parsley.
This was my lunch of Chiles en Nogada today at La Popular, a delightful new restaurant in Oaxaca (Garcia Vigil 519, Centro). Yummm….
(ps) Chris just posted this video of Lina Fernandez making Chiles en Nogada. She makes it look almost doable!
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged El Grito, Mexican Independence, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, store displays, window display on September 13, 2012| 2 Comments »
Revolutionaries behind bars.
Couldn’t resist just one more El Grito window display!
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, History, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged celebrations, El Grito, Escuela Primaria Urbana, graffiti, Grito de Dolores, holidays, Mexican Independence Day, Mexico, newsstands, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, store displays, Teotitlán del Valle, window displays on September 11, 2012| Leave a Comment »
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, History, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged celebrations, clothing, costumes, El Grito, Grito de Dolores, holidays, Mexican Independence Day, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, store displays, traje on September 5, 2012| Leave a Comment »
Are you in the market for a traditional look?
A huipil and rebozo?
Or, are you leaning toward an updated mix and match style?
Do you need a sweater for going down to the zócalo on the evening of September 15?
By all means, don’t forget to accessorize!
On a more serious note: Despite its current challenges (which are many and serious), Mexicans are extremely proud of being Mexicanos. And, in my humble opinion, they have every right be! They can trace their history back to ancient and highly developed civilizations, their national cuisine has been placed on the World Heritage List by UNESCO, and Mexico is considered one of the most geographically and biologically diverse countries in the world. Plus, when was the last time you heard Mexico had invaded another country?
More color from around town this past week…
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, History, Holidays, People, Politics, tagged El Grito, Grito de Dolores, José Clemente Orozco, Labyrinth of Solitude, Mexican Independence Day, Mexico, Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla, Oaxaca, Octavio Paz on September 15, 2011| 2 Comments »
Octavio Paz, writing about the Mexican independence movement in The Labyrinth of Solitude:
The eighteenth century prepared the way for the Independence movement. In fact, the science and philosophy of the epoch… were necessary intellectual antecedents of the Grito de Dolores. [p. 118]
…the insurgents vacillated between Independence (Morelos) and modern forms of autonomy (Hidalgo). The war began as a protest against the abuses of the metropolis and the Spanish bureaucracy, but it was also, and primarily, a protest against the great native landholders. It was not a rebellion of the local aristocracy against the metropolis but of the people against the former. Therefore the revolutionaries gave greater importance to certain social reforms than to Independence itself: Hidalgo proclaimed the abolition of slavery and Morelos broke up the great estates.
The Revolution of Independence was a class war, and its nature cannot be understood correctly unless we recognize the fact that unlike what happened in South America, it was an agrarian revolt in gestation. This is why the army (with its criollos like Iturbide), the Church and the great landowners supported the Spanish crown… [p. 123]
Paz, Octavio. The labyrinth of solitude, the other Mexico; Return of the labyrinth of solitude; Mexico and the United States; The philanthropic ogre. New York: Grove Press, 1985
Posted in Celebrations, Holidays, tagged Chiles en Nogada, El Grito, Government Palace, Grito de Dolores, Mexican Independence Day, Mexico, military, Oaxaca, parade, security checkpoints on September 15, 2011| 4 Comments »
Let the celebrations begin! This morning, enroute to the library, I ran into a pre-school parade coming down the Alcalá…
These two were bringing up the rear because they kept pausing for photos, and I couldn’t resist, either!
Going to the zócalo this afternoon more resembled trying to get to an airport gate, than strolling into a town square. Security checkpoints, with metal detectors, have been set up at 10 intersections. According to an article in this morning’s Noticias, security cameras are also in use.
All is in readiness for tonight’s festivities… another sound and light show projected on the cathedral, fireworks, and the Grito de Dolores from the balcony of the Government Palace.
However, tonight I’ll be eating the traditional Chiles en Nogada, listening for the bells at 11PM, and then watching the fireworks from my ringside seat on the rooftop. ¡Viva Mexico!
(ps) Portrait on the left is of Vicente Guerrero.
Posted in Buildings, History, Holidays, Parks & Plazas, People, tagged El Grito, Grito de Dolores, José María Morelos y Pavón, Josefa Ortiz Domínguez, Leona Vicario, Mexican Independence Day, Mexico, Miguel Hidalgo de Costilla, Municipal Building, Oaxaca, Plaza de la Danza on September 13, 2011| 3 Comments »
In Mexico, from small pueblos (villages) to large ciudades (cities), most all have calles (streets) named Morelos and Hidalgo — some, like Oaxaca, have more than one, which can be very confusing when trying to find an address, to say the least! The names Vicario and Ortiz de Domínguez aren’t nearly so commonplace.
However, two of the women (among countless unsung heroines) who played a major role in the struggle for independence from Spain were Leona Vicario and Josefa Ortiz Domínguez. In a fitting tribute to their importance to the Independence movement, their giant portraits currently hang on the outside wall of the Municipal Building overlooking the Plaza de la Danza, along with those of Miguel Hidalgo de Costilla and José María Morelos y Pavón.
Leona Vicario provided money and medical support, helped fugitives, and served as a messenger. After escaping from prison, she helped her husband, Andrés Quintana Roo, plan strategies on the battle field.
Confined to house arrest after a co-conspirator betrayed the upcoming plans for revolt by the Independence movement, Josefa Ortiz de Domínguez was able to smuggle a message out, warning of the betrayal.
As a result, in the early morning of September 16, Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla rang the church bells in Dolores, rallying the rebels, and issuing, what has come to be known as Grito de Dolores (Cry of Dolores), the signal to begin the War of Independence from Spain. It is an event that is recreated all over Mexico at 11 PM on September 15. (See the link re why it isn’t done in the early morning of September 16.)
The last portrait on the wall is that of José María Morelos y Pavón, of Afro-mestizo heritage, and, like Hidalgo, also a priest. He was a capable military commander who assumed leadership of the independence movement after Hidalgo was executed. For a local connection, on November 25, 1812, in what is thought of as a brilliant victory, Morelos, along with the support of Mariano Matamoros and Miguel Bravo, took the city of Oaxaca. Fittingly, the streets Morelos and Matamoros run parallel and M. Bravo intersects them just a few blocks from the Municipal Building and the Plaza de la Danza.
(ps) These portraits are painted directly on fine mesh screen… thus, the window bars showing through.
El Grito de la Independencia is coming! Vendors of everything green, white, and red have set up their carts on Oaxaca’s busiest street corners and Mexican flags are flying everywhere.
A little slice from yesterday’s grocery shopping trip around town…
Definitely more to come!