Now that the Zócalo has been cleared of street vendors…
A not so wretched refuse bin stands out.
Posts Tagged ‘photos’
Garbage art
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged garbage bins, graffiti, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, street art, trash bins, urban art on October 9, 2019| 6 Comments »
Black and white and blue in Tlacolula
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, street art, Tlacolula de Matamoros, Tlacolulokos, urban art, wall art on October 6, 2019| 8 Comments »
The artistry and message of my favorite mural painting collective, the Tlacolulokos, continues to be revealed on the walls of Tlacolula de Matamoros. Today, on a brief visit, blogger buddy Chris and I stumbled on three of their masterpieces. The first one I’d previously seen and blogged about in 2017 under the title, Who tells your story. However, the second mural was new to both of us.
A blouse divided.
A broken heart — not your usual randa de aguja (needlework technique) blouse detail.
Their message, not mine.
The third mural was a couple of houses down and presents a more historic and celebratory entrance.
Spanish swords and Mitla grecas provide driveway decoration.
A headless woman woman in traditional Tlacolula costume walks toward the entrance.
Thoughts of an upcoming festival castillo, agains the backdrop of the valley’s mountains, dance in her missing head.
Her carrizo shopping basket is filled with purchases for the festival.
From the first Tlacolulokos mural I saw in 2014 to their Tokiolula mural through today, their art continues to speak to me, teach me, and inspire me to really see the people and culture around me.
Along for the ride
Posted in Animals, Creativity, Culture, tagged bicicleta, bicycles, dogs, photos, popular travel destinations, stencil art, street art, Teotitlán del Valle, Tupac Emiliano, wall art on October 3, 2019| 3 Comments »
Art imitating life?
Wall in Oaxaca on Plazuela del Carmen Alto. (Art by Tupac Emiliano)
Or, life imitating art?
On Avenida Benito Juárez, Teotitlán del Valle
You decide!
Honoring maíz
Posted in Agriculture, Celebrations, Culture, Food, Travel & Tourism, tagged corn, Día Nacional del Maíz, maíz, Mexico, National Day of Corn, Oaxaca, photos on September 29, 2019| 6 Comments »
On this Día Nacional del Maíz (National Day of Corn), in honor of the late Maestro Francisco Toledo, who led a fight to defend the native corn from genetically modified corn, a series of activities was held in four of the cultural spaces he bequeathed to Oaxaca. Understanding in Mexico, corn is life, my amiga and I braved the much-needed rain (that has now been falling for 24 hours) to participate in the activities.
Our first stop was at the Centro Fotográfico Manuel Álvarez Bravo (photographic center), where each visitor was photographed in front of a display of maíz and the mobile unit of the Centro de las Artes de San Agustín (CaSa) made special commemorative prints.
Backdrop for photos at the Centro Fotográfico Manuel Álvarez Bravo
Next on the itinerary was the library, Fonoteca Eduardo Mata, where a video about the issue of transgenic corn was shown, corn masks were given, and we recieved a second stamp in our Pasaporte Día Nacional del Maíz.
Raised beds of corn in the Ethnobotanic Garden
We then proceeded to the Jardín Etnobotánico (Ethnobotanic Garden), where we were introduced to two raised beds of maíz — one the silvestre abuelita (wild grandmother) and one her cultivated descendant that we rely on today.
Serving pozol from an olla at IAGO
Our final stop of the day was at the Instituto de Arte Gráficas de Oaxaca (IAGO) where we were rewarded with many gifts — including a t-shirt or sweatshirt, a small flower pot of corn stalks, and a comida of tamales, nicuatole, and pozol (a prehispanic corn beverage).
Field of corn in Teotitlán del Valle
Everyone should be honoring this day and giving thanks to the original peoples of Oaxaca for cultivating maíz 10,000 years ago.
Macedonio Alcalá never dies
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Music, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged Dios nunca muere, Macedonio Alcalá, Mexico, mural, Oaxaca, photos, street art, urban art, Uriel Barragán Bouler, wall art, waltz music on September 26, 2019| 2 Comments »
A mural celebrating the life and music of composer and violinist Macedonio Alcalá has joined a bust of fellow Oaxaqueño composer Álvaro Carillo in the Jardín Carbajal (Macedonio Alcalá at Cosijopi). The mural by Uriel Barragán (Bouler) was unveiled August 22, 2019 in commemoration of the 150th anniversary of the death Macedonio Alcalá. The composer is best known for his piece, “Dios nunca muere” (God Never Dies) — a song that has become Oaxaca’s unofficial anthem and provided the artist with the theme of the mural.
According to one legend: While Macedonio Alcalá was convalescing from a serious illness, he was visited by a group of indigenous people from Tlacolula de Matamoros, who asked him to compose a waltz for their festival of the Virgen de la Asunción. Subsequently, the flutist José Maqueo went to see him, and noticing the poverty stricken situation of Macedonio Alcalá, without him noticing Maqueo left twelve pesos under the pillow. The next day the composer found the money and told his wife: “Look, God never dies, always comforts the afflicted,” and he immediately began writing “Dios nunca muere.”
Whether it’s true or not, it’s a lovely story to accompany a lovely waltz.
Close encounters of the cocinera kind
Posted in Culture, Food, Travel & Tourism, tagged cocineras, cooking, Encuentro de Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca 2019, food festival, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, traditional cuisine, women cooks on September 20, 2019| 13 Comments »
The long-awaited 3er Encuentro de Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca (3rd Gathering of Traditional Oaxacan Cooks) opened yesterday in the Centro Cultural y de Convenciones de Oaxaca (CCCO) — the new convention center.
While not nearly as convenient for yours truly as the previous two, which were held only a block away in the Plaza de la Danza, the Cocineras event had rapidly outgrown the old space and this site was more than adequate.
The gathering showcases 60 cooks, representing the 8 regions of the state, preparing more than 200 typical Oaxacan dishes — including desserts and beverages. Prices for each dish are reasonable and there is plenty of seating.
In addition to dining and drooling, there are cooking and craft workshops, educational conferences, and area where one can purchase kitchen and table related products, along with various packaged foodstuffs.
By the way, even the Zapotec God of Rain, Cocijo, blessed the opening with a much-needed downpour, but the rain didn’t dampen any spirits!
The Encuentro de Cocineras Tradicionales runs through Sunday, September 22, food stalls are open from 1:00 to 8:00 PM daily, and entrance is free.
Twas the night before Independence Day
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Día de la Independencia, decorative lighting, El Grito, El Mes de la Patria, Grito de Dolores, Mexican Independence Day, Mexico, Oaxaca, Palacio de Gobierno, patriotic decorations, photos, popular travel destinations, Señorita América, zócalo kiosk on September 16, 2019| 2 Comments »
Overnight, as the calendar page turned from August to September, green, white, and red appeared around the city. The colors of the Mexican flag festooned buildings — both public and private and flags began flying from rooftops.
Papel picado hanging above Plazuela Labastida.
Vendor carts, selling all things patriotic, noisy, and green, white, and red, began appearing on busy street corners and green, white, and red lights were strung above major streets and in the zócalo. September is El Mes de Patria — an entire month of celebrating Mexico’s independence from Spain.
Kiosk in the zócalo.
September 16 is Día de la Independencia (Independence Day) marking Don Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla’s call to arms (Grito de Dolores) announcing the start of a ten-year long war for independence. However, all over Mexico, re-enactments “El Grito” (the Cry of Dolores) are staged at 11:00 PM on September 15 — by mayors from municipal city halls, governors from state building balconies, and by the President of Mexico from the the National Palace. September 16 is marked with military parades.
Camera scaffolding in front of Oaxaca’s Government Palace.
As an article in yesterday’s El Imparcial proudly proclaimed, Oaxaqueños like Antonio de León, Carlos María Bustamante, José María Murguía y Galardi, and Manuel Sabino Crespo “contributed their sacrifice and courage to the creation of a free, sovereign and guaranteed homeland.” (my translation) By the way, for those who live in or have visited Oaxaca: Do those names ring a bell?
Señorita América on her way to sing the Himno Nacional (Mexican National Anthem) in the zócolo after the governor gives the Grito.
Last night’s Grito was the first given by Mexico’s new President, Andreas Manuel Lopez Obrador (aka, AMLO). The media pointed out that he gave 20 “Vivas” from the balcony of the Palacio Nacional, while his predecessor only gave 11. Among the added “Long live’s” were, “¡Vivan las comunidades indígenas!” and “¡Viva la grandeza cultural de México!”
Long live the independence! Long live Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla! Long live Morelos! Long live Josefa Ortiz de Domínguez! Long live Ignacio Allende! Long live Leona Vicar! Long live anonymous heroes! Long live the heroic people of Mexico! Long live the indigenous communities! Long live freedom! Long live justice! Long live democracy! Long live our sovereignty! Long live the universal fraternity! Long live peace! Long live the cultural greatness of Mexico! Long live Mexico! Long live Mexico! Long live Mexico!
And, there was more Oaxaca pride present in the nation’s capital as the Banda del Centro de Capacitación Musical y Desarrollo (CECAM), a youth band from the Mixe village of Santa María Tlahuitoltepec, Oaxaca, performed following the Grito.
Art of a garden
Posted in Agriculture, Creativity, Culture, Flora, Gardens, tagged cactus, gardens, metates, Mexico, molcajetes, Oaxaca, photos, ponds, recycled objects, succulents, Vives Verde on September 12, 2019| 4 Comments »
Who knew that there was an amazing garden, built on a former garbage dump, and open to the public in Xoxocotlán? Not me, until a friend mentioned it and invited me on a field trip to visit.
Thus, a few days ago, I found myself at Vives Verdes — a delightful labor of love — a marriage of plants, recycling, art, education, and the environment.
Nine years ago architect, Francisco Martínez began a project of landscaping a healing, artistic, and environmental garden — not only utilizing plants, but also converting found objects into planters and whimsical art.
Vives Verdes incorporates more than 200 species and 2000 plants — mostly from Oaxaca, but also from other arid climates throughout the world.
A water catchment system utilizing paths, beds, and ponds irrigate the garden and no chemicals are used.
Vives Verde is open to the public and school groups. It is located in the Las Culturas neighborhood of Santa Cruz Xoxocotlán, Oaxaca.
Exploring his inner artist
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Creativity, Culture, tagged art, artist at work, jaguar, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, wall art, young talent on September 9, 2019| 10 Comments »
I can’t think of a better way to honor the memory of Maestro Toledo, than to acknowledge, encourage, and celebrate young artistic talent. “Disguise the new water pipes,” she (the dueña) said.
And, so, Ulises, the 18 year old handyman/mozo in our apartment complex complied — and we were all impressed.
From what we gathered, Ulises had no formal artistic training. Yet, next thing we knew, courtesy of Uli, a rat had invaded our compound!
Soon thereafter, Uli had added Mara and Notte (our resident gatitos/cats), a tree, and a colibri/hummingbird to the scene.
Uli continued to explore his talent.
And, we now have a fierce, but lovely, jaguar on the scene! If only, every young person had the opportunity to explore their inner talent.
Thank you for so much, Maestro Toledo
Posted in Creativity, Culture, People, tagged artists, death, floral wreaths, Francisco Toledo, Mexico, Oaxaca, offerings, photos on September 6, 2019| 3 Comments »
Oaxaca is in mourning. Last night, word of the passing of one of her greatest champions, Maestro Francisco Toledo was announced by Mexico’s president — an indication of the importance and esteem the Maestro is held. Born in Juchitán, Oaxaca on July 17, 1940, Toledo died in Oaxaca city on September 5, 2019, at age 79.
This morning outside the Instituto de Artes Gráficas de Oaxaca (IAGO), which he founded and funded.
Besides being a world renown artist, he was a fighter for social justice and the environment, a very generous philanthropist, and crusader for the respect of indigenous peoples and character of Oaxaca. People are still chuckling over the unique form of protest he led when a McDonald’s threatened to open in the zocaló.
This morning, inside the Instituto de Artes Gráficas de Oaxaca (IAGO).
We awoke this morning to see the gigantic Mexican flag that flutters above the city of Oaxaca flying at half staff and large black bows, indicating a family in mourning, had been fastened above many of the institutions that benefited from Toledo’s philanthropy.
Biblioteca Pública Central Margarita Maza de Juárez – Oaxaca’s main public library.
The streets of Oaxaca are little more subdued today — less laughter, music muted, and even the traffic doesn’t seem as chaotic.
On the sidewalk outside the Instituto de Artes Gráficas de Oaxaca (IAGO).
A public tribute to the Maestro is scheduled for 2:00 PM today at the Teatro Macedonio Alcalá.
First we eat…
Posted in Culture, Food, food festival, Restaurants, tagged Encuentro de Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca 2019, food quotes, Mexico, music, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, restaurants, traditional cuisine on September 3, 2019| 7 Comments »
Food with friend in Oaxaca during the last two weeks…
First we eat, then we do everything else. –M.F.K. Fisher
Tostadas de mariscos – Marco Polo, August 15, 2019
People who love to eat are always the best people. –Julia Child
Chiles Rellenos – Tierra del Sol, August 17, 2019
Food is our common ground, a universal experience. –James Beard
Mole Negro – Teotitlán del Valle, August 18 2019
Laughter is brightest in the place where the food is. –Irish Proverb
Ensalada de Papa y Pulpo — Ristorante Italiano Epicuro, August 30, 2019
The secret of success in life is to eat what you like and let the food fight it out inside. –Mark Twain
And, while we are on the topic of dining well in Oaxaca, we are all looking forward to the long delayed, but eagerly anticipated, Tercer Encuentro de Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca (3rd Gathering of Traditional Oaxacan Cooks) to take place September 19-22, 2019 at the Centro Cultural y De Convenciones Oaxaca (note venue change). According to reports, there will be 60 traditional women cooks, 15 people making traditional beverages, 6 pastry chefs, and 6 makers of iced desserts.
Promoting Oaxaca’s indigenous peoples
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Economics, Exhibitions, Food, Travel & Tourism, tagged festivals, Fiesta de la Diversidad Indígena, Indigenous healers, indigenous textiles, INPI, Instituto Nacional de los Pueblos Indígenas, International Day of the World's Indigenous Peoples, Mexico, mezcal, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, tejate on August 31, 2019| 4 Comments »
In commemoration of International Day of the World’s Indigenous Peoples, Mexico’s Instituto Nacional de los Pueblos Indígenas (INPI) is hosting a Fiesta de la Diversidad Indígena de Oaxaca.
It is a four-day festival honoring and promoting the state of Oaxaca’s indigenous peoples and their communities with artesania, textiles and other products for sale, cultural performances and workshops, food booths, and even healing treatments — and it’s happening a block from Casita Colibrí in the Plaza de la Danza!
Yawi Naka – Triqui – La Laguna Guadalupe, Putla Villa de Guerrero
INPI has an excellent online atlas of the indigenous peoples of Mexico and it, along with the statistics I previously posted regarding poverty, discrimination, and the results thereof affecting Mexico’s indigenous and Afro-Mexican peoples are abysmal.
Na Jacinta Charis – Zapoteco – Juchitán de Zaragoza
According to this article (in Spanish), the charge of the INPI is to advocate for indigenous and Afro-Mexican rights and to recognize that in order for these peoples and their communities to survive, institutional efforts must be taken to guarantee their full exercise of social, political, cultural, and economic rights.
Productores de Maguey y Mezcal Lucas 2010 SPR de Ri – Zapoteco – San Isidro Guishe, San Luis Amatlán
The INPI is also attempting to advance an understanding that the family/community economy of these communities has a different production logic than the commercial market economy and that their economic model must be respected.
Organización de Medicos Indigenas Tradicionales de laCañada – Cuicateco – San Juan Bautista Cuicatlán
This festival provides a space to promote the various community projects and to showcase the artistic and cultural expressions in the city.
Chenteñas Hazme Si Puedes – Zapoteco – San Vicente Coatlán
I’ve aready been twice to the event — talking with various vendors, buying the blouse above (along with cheese, sal de chicatanas, and olive oil with fresh organic herbs), and sitting at one of the long tables enjoying a tamal, empanada, and a jícara of tejate
The Fiesta de la Diversidad Indígena runs through late afternoon tomorrow (Sept. 1, 2019). If you are in Oaxaca city, be sure to check it out (schedule below).
Blessed construction!
Posted in Buildings, Creativity, Culture, tagged building construction, construction, Day of the Holy Cross, Día de la Santa Cruz, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, rebar on August 28, 2019| Leave a Comment »
Construction is going on all over the city. A blessing or a curse?
The cross was probably put up on May 3, Día de la Santa Cruz (Day of the Holy Cross) — which also happens to be Día del Abañil (Day of the mason/stonemason/bricklayer). It is tradition for workers to erect crosses festooned with flowers at the highest point on construction sites.
So close and yet…
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Travel & Tourism, Weather, tagged cityscape, clouds, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, rainbows on August 25, 2019| 2 Comments »
Late yesterday afternoon storm clouds gathered, thunder began rumbling in the distance, and rain began falling to the south.
The sky darkened to the east.
But all we got was this lovely rainbow.
80% chance of rain they said. But, alas this on again/off again rainy season continues to be mostly off.
Preserving culture by nurturing the youth
Posted in Children, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Centro Cultural Comunitario de Teotitlán del Valle, Danza de la Pluma, Feather dance, Mexico, Oaxaca, penachos, photos, rugs, tapetes, Teotitlán del Valle on August 22, 2019| 6 Comments »
Sunday, August 18, 2019, Teotitlán del Valle celebrated the first anniversary of their Centro Cultural Comunitario de Teotitlán del Valle (CCCTV). During the day-long event, not only was there food and music, the village also celebrated passing on of their cultural riches and traditions to upcoming generations.
The Cultural Center’s, Danza de la Pluma Infantil (youth Danza de la Pluma group) donned their costumes, gathered on the Municipal Plaza, and performed dances from this ritual retelling of the Conquest. (Check out the up close and personal photos by blogger buddy Chris.)
In the CCCTV, there was an exhibition of penachos/coronas (headdresses) used in the Danza de la Pluma that were crafted in a workshop by young people from the village.
“BaáGuiish” by Laura Ruiz Mendoza. Representing the four cardinal points to give thanks for each new day.
Detail of “Shia guibaa” by Jesús Brayan Jiménez Lazo.
“La cruz de Quetzalcóatl” by Juan Mendoza Bautista.
In addition, there was also an exhibition of tapetes (rugs) designed and woven by the young people of Teotitlán del Valle.
“El alma en manos de mi arte” by Omar Mendoza Martínez.
“Futuro Hermoso” by Constantino Lazo Martínez.
“Huitzilopochtli” by Anais Adelina Ruiz Martínez.
“Bineéty xunuax Xigie’ (Mujer Zapoteca) woven image of his grandmother by Mario González Pérez.
Celebrating and preserving the cultural riches of the Zapotec community of Teotitlán del Valle. Can’t think of a better way to spend a Sunday. Dixeebe! Zapotec for ¡salud! cheers!
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