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Posts Tagged ‘Oaxaca’

White, one-story building with stickers on front

Stickers of a person with a monitor for a head and tentacles for legs, on front of building

Close up of sticker of a person with a monitor for a head and tentacles for legs, on front of building

Graphic in red, black, and white of dead canary in a cage on a TV moniter

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Oh, what a beautiful morning it was!

Glowing red/orange African tulip tree blossoms in foreground, church domes and bell towers in background against, tops of mountains in distance, against blue sky with bands of fog.

What a difference 10 hours makes.

Red/orange African tulip tree blossoms in foreground, church domes and bell towers in background against gray sky

Moisture from Tropical Storm Isaac being drawn across Oaxaca.  That’s the way the rainy season goes!

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Walking down the street… an open door… can’t help but look in…

Clown piñata hanging from a ceiling

¡Feliz fin de semana!

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Several days ago, Susan McGlynn of the Insider’s Guide to Oaxaca posted this photo on the Insider’s Facebook page, with the question, “Oaxaca in the 1940s or maybe 50s?. DO YOU KNOW WHICH CORNER OF OAXACA THIS IS???”

Black and white street scene of large baskets and indigenous vendors and shoppers.

The architecture looked very familiar and then there were those trees in the distance…  I was pretty sure I knew which corner this was, so off the camera and I went.

Black and whte street scene filled with automobiles and people on sidewalk and a couple crossing the street

It’s looking north on Flores Magón at the intersection of Las Casas.  That’s the Government Palace in front of the trees of the zócalo at the end of the street.  Outside the shot and to the left of the cars in the foreground is Mercado Benito Juárez.  Perhaps all is a little clearer in color…

Street scene (in color) filled with automobiles and people on sidewalk and a couple crossing the street

That cinnamon colored building in the foreground is the Trebol Hotel and the single-story white building next to the Government Palace is La Lagunilla, which must have been in business when the original photograph was taken, as the sign says it was founded in 1921.

Cars in front of one story white building with blue awning and name, La Lagunilla, painted at the top of the building

This was fun!

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A motley crew…

2 street musicians; one wearing a U2 t-shirt and other a Motley Crue t-shirt

Are you, too?

They were playing Pink Floyd — “Another Brick in the Wall.”

The “writing on the wall” refers to the assassination in March 2012 of Bernardo Vásquez Sánchez, a Zapotec community activist who had spoken out against a Canadian owned gold mine in San José del Progreso, Oaxaca.

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Buried treasures continue to be found in Oaxaca.  Mexico’s INAH (National Anthropology and History Institute) reported this week another burial chamber has been uncovered at the nearby Santa María Atzompa archaeological zone.

Current findings in the tomb include this urn, which they date to sometime between 650 CE and 850 CE.

Red urn shaped like a human face.

Photo: Red anthropomorphic urn (EFE/INAH)

Here is an English language article that reports on these latest discoveries from the site.

Mexican Archaeologists Discover Ancient Zapotec Tomb

Published at 10:06 pm EST, August 16, 2012

The tomb of a high-ranking member of Zapotec society was found at a 1,200-year-old funerary complex in the southern Mexican state of Oaxaca, the National Anthropology and History Institute, or INAH, said.

Archaeologist in Zapotec tomb

Photo: Burial and offering (INAH)

The funerary complex, which has three burial chambers, was found about three months ago at the Atzompa archaeological zone, the INAH said.

Archaeologists managed to get into the third pre-Columbian burial chamber, which contained human remains that are likely those of a male, INAH archaeology coordinator Nelly Robles Garcia said.

The remains will be analyzed to determine the age, nutrition and health of the individual, as well as whether there are intentional deformities of a cultural nature.

Archaeologists found a fractured skull belonging to another individual next to the remains, leading them to conclude that it may have been an offering.

A small, black tubular pitcher and pieces of a vessel were also found in the burial chamber.

A red urn with a human face on it and other items were found in the grave, archaeologist Eduardo Garcia said.

The vessel, which is estimated to date back to 650 A.D. to 850 A.D., is 50 centimeters (1.6 feet) tall, archaeologists said.

“We are dealing with a building where the remains of people with a very high status were placed. Who they were and what role they played in Zapotec society is still to be determined based on the findings that are being made and their later analysis,” Robles said.

Archaeologists found the building, which was designed exclusively as a burial site, in late April.

The tombs are located one on top of the other and, unlike previous discoveries, are not underground.

One of the burial chambers is decorated with a mural of a ball game, a theme not found before in Zapotec funerary practices.

Atzompa was a small satellite city of Monte Alban, the main center of the Zapotec state that dominated what today is Oaxaca.

“This discovery changes the perception we had in the sense that it was not as similar to Monte Alban as had been thought but, instead, developed its own architectural expressions, such as in the case of tombs and palaces,” Robles said.

For more on the Santa María Atzompa archaelogical zone, take a look at a January 2012 article I reprinted on an Ancient Zapotec kiln discovered there.  The site is scheduled to open sometime this year.

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On chairs in Reyes Etla.

On a chair: sheet music "Zapateando Istmeño xxx" for tuba

On people’s backs in the city.
"Cuadrilla no. 2" sheet music clipped on the back of a man wearing a red and black striped shirt

Wherever… especially during Guelaguetza!

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From Sangre de Cristo to Santo Domingo, along the Alcalá, one is now able to “have a seat.”

Wooden bench with a curved seat.

As part of the inauguration of the Me Siento Bien en Oaxaca (I Feel Good in Oaxaca) and to celebrate, International Youth Day, 13 pieces were created by students of the Faculty of Architecture Cinco de Mayo, the Free School of Art and Design, and the Urban Contingency B_root studio.

Slats of curved pieces of wood forming a bench

The theme was Evolution and the young people were charged with using recycled materials and innovative design.

Bench with metal seat with punched design, which is mirrored in the shadow on the paving stones.

I think they succeeded!

Brass looking metal bench reflecting paving stones, building, and lamp

Alas, it is only temporary; August 18 is the last day.

 

Circular double bench - metal and plastic.

However, according to a newspaper report, as a more permanent part of Me Siento Bien en Oaxaca program, benches “rescued by the City” will be put in public spaces.

Wooden boxes

 

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Hmmm… hope you didn’t need a taxi in Oaxaca today.  It’s not that they weren’t around; they were everywhere!  August 12 is Día del Taxista and, instead of picking up fares, taxis are decorated and parade through the city, accompanied by banners, bands, monos, and the Virgen de Guadalupe.

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I think I managed to capture one of each of the (color-coded) taxi organizations participating — 13 by my count.  However, the procession didn’t seem as long this year and I’m thinking some of the organizations were missing.  Charges of corruption, going back to the previous governor have been ramping up and the July 25th blockade that paralyzed transportation into and out of the city, by some taxistas, seemed to put the issue on the front burner.  But, who knows???  Certainly not this gringa!

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Congratulations to the Gold Medal winning Mexican fútbol team!!!  With all the bad press Mexico continues to be subjected to, El Tri, as they are known down here, has provided México with a much-needed and well deserved win.

Reuters photo

The TV is showing celebrations in the streets of Mexico City, Guadalajara, and other major cities, but (surprisingly, at least to me) all is quiet in Oaxaca.  I watched much of the game while eating breakfast with my neighbor at Del Jardín, on the zócalo.  We arrived 10 minutes before the game began and were able to sit right in front of one of the televisions.  The restaurants had been packed for the Mexico vs Japan game — maybe it was today’s 9 AM start.  I watched the end of the game at home, but no bells rang, no horns honked, and I only heard one shout.  After the medal ceremony, I went back out.  The streets still were still emptier than usual.  A few buildings had hung flags.

Mexican flag hanging from second floor of building.

And, these guys were driving around waving a flag and beeping their horn, but that was pretty much it.

2/3rds of Mexican flag seen on car as it rounds a corner

Maybe tonight there will dancing in the streets…

By the way, if you watched the game, you heard the name of midfielder Javier Aquino Carmona (#11) frequently mentioned.  Aquino is from San Francisco Ixhuatán, in the Isthmus of Tehuantepec region of Oaxaca.

Update:  This just in from Noticias… apparently some celebrating was being done up at the Fuente de las Ocho Regiones, 25-30 blocks NE of the zócalo, and gathering point for many marches into the city center.

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Waiting is a way of life down here and we all do it in our own way.  Right now Oaxaca is waiting for Tropical Storm Ernesto to “break on through to the other side.”  These guys were waiting to “get in step,” before the parade passes by.

Two men leaning against a wall

Two guys wearing red bandanas  on their head in foreground and crowd in background

Guy wearing costume leaning against wall

A peso for his thoughts…

(Mixing The Doors and Barbra Streisand lyrics — what was I thinking???)

 

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Even though the Guelaguetza is over, textiles continue to be on my mind — actually I can never get enough of them!  So, a few days ago I walked down to the Museo Textil de Oaxaca to see the current exhibition, “Tormentos y Sueños” by Carolyn Kallenborn.  While not a Oaxaqueña, the respect she has for and inspiration she draws from the weavers and textile traditions of Oaxaca are obvious.

Kallenborn explains, “The pieces in this exhibit speak to the beauty and interaction between opposites.” (my translation)  The works are at once, complex and simple, using detail and negative space — much like storms and dreams.  Photographing a whole piece proved too much for my novice skills, thus I hope close-ups of these four pieces will whet your appetite.

If you are, or will be, in Oaxaca, I encourage you to see the whole!  The exhibit runs through November 9, 2012.

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I’ve got to admit that up until yesterday, I was suffering from Guelaguetza burn-out.  In fact, I still have 1000+ photos that need to be weeded down to a more manageable number.

However, then yesterday happened — “Una Guelaguetza muy especial” presented by the very special people of Los Angeles de Luzy.   Sixteen young people with Down’s Syndrome, from the Yucatan, Campeche, and Oaxaca danced the traditional dances of the eight regions of Oaxaca in the Plaza de la Danza.

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Part of Oaxaca’s first Down’s Syndrome festival, it was an inspiring, moving, and incredibly joyful experience — and I wouldn’t have missed it for the world.  ¡Muchisimas gracias a Los Angeles de Luzy!

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As that wise philosopher and Charlie Brown creator, Charles M. Schulz once wrote,

All you need is love. But a little chocolate now and then doesn’t hurt.

And, chocolate in Oaxaca is easy to find and is almost as well-known as Oaxaca’s cheeses and mole.  Ground almonds and cinnamon give it a distinctive and slightly spicy flavor — and everyone has their favorite.  Mayordomo and La Soledad are two of the most well-known labels, but my favorite brand (as opposed to homemade, which is in a class all by itself), is the much smaller, Conchita.

Conchita poster

Every month or so, I weave my way in and out through the crush of the always teeming sidewalks of Miguel Cabrera to the Conchita puesto immediately to the right, inside the Mercado 20 de Noviembre — the entrance between Aldama and Mina.

Sky blue entrance to the mercado 20 de noviembre.

I’m always greeted with a smile of recognition and the question, “Semi-amargo?”  Sí, I always reply!

Male sales clerk behind counter filled with chocolate products.

I buy the little semisweet chocolate chips for snacking (especially decadent and delicious when mixed with dried cranberries) and the large discs, which I grate into a fine powder to mix with hot milk to add to my morning coffee — a delectable way to jump-start the day!

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Oh those beautiful braids of many of the dancers in Guelaguetza!  How do they do it?  In Reyes Etla, trapped between a yellow caution tape barrier and the folding chairs of the Tuxtepec delegation (the pineapple dancers), the answer was revealed…

Number 1:  You can’t do it yourself!

Woman standing braiding a hair extension into a seated woman's hair.

Number 2:  Hair extensions!  (Who knew???)

Close-up of hands braiding ribbons into hair

Number 3:  Practiced hands.

Hands braiding ribbons into hair.

Number 4:  Patience.

Hands braiding ribbons into hair.

But, it’s well worth the effort!

Hands finishing long braid, with red and blue ribbons, that extends beyond top of chair.

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