Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Neighborhoods, Travel & Tourism, tagged Barrio de Jalatlaco, brass band, bride and groom, Chinas Oaxaqueñas, marmotas, Mexico, monos, Oaxaca, photos, wedding procession, weddings on September 26, 2021| 6 Comments »
If it’s Saturday, it must be boda (wedding) day in Oaxaca. I caught this one as it was leaving Templo de San Matías Jalatlaco in the requisite post-ceremony procession that would stop traffic as it wended its way through the streets of the neighborhood.
While the wedding party may not have been as grand as the Saturday weddings at the over-the-top ornate Templo Santo Domingo de Guzmán, this one had all the festive elements of a boda in Oaxaca.
What’s not to love about a Oaxaca wedding?!!!
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Alice in Wonderland quotations, Christmas decorations, coronavirus fallout, COVID-19 fallout, Louis Carroll quotations, Mexico, monos, murals, Oaxaca, photos, Santa Claus, semáforo system, street art, urban art, wall art on December 21, 2020| 2 Comments »
Today Oaxaca regressed to “If you are able, stay in your house” Covid-19 semáforo naranja, seemingly for the umpteenth time, not that it seems to make any difference. A morning walk to Mercado Benito Juárez revealed restaurants continuing to offer indoor dining; a zócalo teeming with people, street vendors, and the tents of a plantón (protest encampment); and a mercado bustling with people. These days I feel like I’m living in Alice in Wonderland’s world…
“Off with their heads!”
“One day Alice came to a fork in the road and saw a Cheshire cat in a tree. ‘Which road do I take?’ she asked. ‘Where do you want to go?’ was his response. ‘I don’t know,’ Alice answered. ‘Then,’ said the cat, ‘it doesn’t matter.”
“Little Alice fell
d
o
w
n
the hOle,
bumped her head
and bruised her soul”
“What a strange world we live in… Said Alice to the Queen of hearts”
All quotes from Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland by Louis Carroll.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged dancers, Desfile de Delegaciones, El Jolgorio mezcal, Flor de piña dancer, folkloric dancers, Guelaguetza, marmotas, Mexico, monos, Oaxaca, Parade of Delegations, photos, pineapple dancers, popular travel destinations on July 29, 2019| 2 Comments »
Saturday was a beautiful day for this year’s second Guelaguetza Desfile de Delegaciones. Nothing but sun and blue sky greeted the dancers as they arrived in buses, their large props arrived in trucks, and spectators arrived on foot — as Calzada Porfirio Díaz, north of Niños Heroes was blocked to traffic, except for the aforementioned mentioned official vehicles.
Did I mention, mezcal flowed freely, as dancers fortified themselves and the gathered onlookers? It’s all part of the prep and, by the time the parade began at 6:00 PM sharp, everyone was feeling good and more than ready!
Posted in Churches, Culture, Food, tagged garlic, market, marmotas, metates, Mexico, monos, Oaxaca, photos, Santo Domingo de Guzmán, Tlacolula de Matamoros on June 13, 2019| 7 Comments »
Home soon and looking forward to returning to these sights…
View of Santo Domingo de Guzmán.
Metates and garlic — market day in Tlacolula de Matamoros.
Monos and marmotas waiting for a wedding at Santa Domingo de Guzmán.
Oaxaca, I love you.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged bands, Mexico, monos, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, weddings on January 26, 2019| 6 Comments »
If it’s Saturday, it must be wedding day in Oaxaca.
They are scheduled one right after another at several of the churches, especially those on Macedonio Alcalá (the walking street).
As a result, there is a lot of waiting by the wedding parties, bands, and monos.
All dressed up with someplace to go!
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Desfile de Delegaciones, Guelaguetza, marmotas, masks, Mexico, monos, Oaxaca, Parade of Delegations, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, toritos on July 30, 2018| 1 Comment »
In the hour leading up to the Guelaguetza Desfile de delagaciones, last minute prep work…
Props at the ready…
Human parade participants sit and wait…
And, spectators hang out on the sidewalks…
What did we all do before cell phones?
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged bands, calenda, Chinas Oaxaqueñas, dancers, festivals, Mexico, monos, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Saint Cecilia, Santa Cecilia on November 21, 2017| Leave a Comment »
In Oaxaca, the sound of rockets and music in the streets means there must be a calenda — and early last evening, one seemed to be only a few blocks away.
It was the ideal excuse for putting off emptying my massive wooden kitchen counter for the termite extermination crew’s arrival the next morning.
To what, or who, did I owe this timely interruption? Saint Cecilia! November 22 is her feast day and, at least in Mexico, festivals to the saints aren’t just one day events — hence yesterday’s mass at Iglesia de San Felipe Neri, followed by the calenda.
And, by the way, Santa Cecilia isn’t just any saint, she is the patrona de los músicos (patron of musicians) and so, of course, there were two bands playing in the church atrium.
Alas, though the party was only just getting started, given the chore that awaited me at home, I forced myself to leave after a half and hour. However there is more on Santa Cecilia’s dance card today and tomorrow…
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged bands, calenda, dancers, Gran Calenda del Mercado de Abastos, Guelaguetza, marmotas, Mexico, monos, Oaxaca, parade, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on July 19, 2017| 2 Comments »
Another day, another parade. Today, the Gran Calenda del Mercado de Abastos (parade of the markets) passed within a block and a half of Casita Colibrí. I couldn’t miss it — the cacophony of multiple bands, cohetes (rockets), and honking horns announced its arrival in my ‘hood! In the words of Octavio Paz, from The Labyrinth of Solitude…
“The solitary Mexican loves fiestas and public gatherings.”
“The art of the fiesta has been debased almost everywhere else, but not in Mexico.”
“Our poverty can be measured by the frequency and luxuriousness of our holidays.”
“Do they forget themselves and show their true faces? Nobody knows. The important thing is to go out, open a way, get drunk on noise, people, colors.”
“In the confusion that it generates, society is dissolved, is drowned, insofar as it is an organism ruled according to certain laws and principles.”
“Everything is united: good and evil, day and night, the sacred and the profane. Everything merges, loses shape and individuality and returns to the primordial mass.”
“The fiesta is a cosmic experiment, an experiment in disorder, reuniting contradictory elements and principles in order to bring about a renascence of life.”
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Food, food festival, History, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged 485th anniversary, calendas, Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca, Encuentro Cocineras Tradicionales, food, gigantes, Mexico, monos, Oaxaca, parades, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on April 24, 2017| 3 Comments »
This week the city of Oaxaca celebrates her 485 birthday. Yes, we know she is older… However, we are talking the colonial city, here. And, despite her age, this birthday girl began the festivities by inviting the best cocineras from the eight regions of the state to cook for her citizens and visitors — from 1 PM until 9 PM — under the shade of a giant tent covering the Plaza de la Danza. The Primer Encuentro de Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca was not free, but quite reasonable.
The food was riquísima (beyond delicious) and, while we were there, the guys from Santiago Juxtlahuaca in the Mixtec region of Oaxaca, performed the Danza de los Rubios.
I returned home satisfied and sleepy, but the day wasn’t over. There was a calenda (parade) scheduled for 5 PM and a procession of “Gigantes” at 7 PM — route for the latter was unclear. I was hot, tired, and torn. To go, or not to go? That was the question. Thunder began rumbling and I figured my answer was to stay in for the evening. However, at 7:30 PM, when a the sounds of a procession came practically to my doorstep and not a drop of rain had fallen, I had to run out to join it.
The “Gigantes” were supposed to represent the giants of all time that Oaxaca has given to the world. Most were a mystery to me, though I think I saw Benito Juárez and maybe Porfirio Díaz (both Oaxaqueños) and I’m guessing the bunny is a nod to the alebrije wood carving and decorating tradition. In any case, it was great fun!
Just as the calenda reached the Plaza de la Danza, it began raining on this parade and everyone made a beeline for the cover of the Cocineras tent. I’m sure they will eat well! And the rain? It was probably the best birthday gift Mother Nature could bestow on Oaxaca’s parched earth and dusty sidewalks.
This was just day one of the anniversary festivities. Tomorrow (Tuesday) is Oaxaca’s actual birthday and the church bells will begin chiming at 6:45 AM. So I’d better get to bed! By the way, the Encuentro de Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca opens again at 1 PM tomorrow and lasts until 8 PM or whenever the food runs out. For a complete schedule of events, click HERE.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Education, Labor, Travel & Tourism, tagged dove, graffiti, Mexico, monos, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, street art, urban art on June 24, 2016| 2 Comments »
It’s halftime in Oaxaca and all is quiet.
Local vendors are selling food, drink and paraphernalia. Though El Financiero is reporting that grocery chain Soriana is temporarily closing some of their stores in Oaxaca and Chiapas, blaming blockades and security concerns.
The teams have retired to their respective locker rooms to tend to the wounded and bury the dead (literally).
Mascots continue to fire up their supporters in a war of Tweets, Facebook posts, and media talking heads…
As fans (fanáticos en español) await the resumption of play.
But, all most Oaxaqueños want is a peaceful and fair end to this infernal battle. Let’s hope something can be worked out when negotiations resume on Monday.
During this lull, English speaking readers might want to check out Dave Miller’s blog and/or listen to an interview with Laura Carlsen (Center for International Policy) for background on the issues involved between the education workers and the government.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Places, Travel & Tourism, tagged brass band, buildings, Carnaval, Centro de las Artes de San Agustín, Día del Barrendero, Mexico, monos, murals, Oaxaca, orange, plants, popular travel destinations, San Juan Guelavia, San Martín Tilcajete, signs, street art, trucks, Viernes del Llano, wall art on March 10, 2015| Leave a Comment »
Pick a color, any color, and you will find it in Oaxaca, be it people…
Places or things…
Today, I choose orange. Tomorrow, who knows???
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Parks & Plazas, Travel & Tourism, tagged Basilica de la Soledad, celebrations, Día del Barrendero, garbage collectors, garbage trucks, marmotas, Mexico, monos, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Sindicato Independiente 3 de Marzo, street sweepers, toritos, Virgen de La Soledad on March 5, 2015| 6 Comments »
Tuesday morning, from the plaza in front of the Basilica de la Soledad, the sound of speeches, music, and explosions announced Día del Barrendero — a day celebrating the founding of the Sindicato Independiente 3 de Marzo. These are the street sweepers, garbage collectors, and laborers of Oaxaca.
Earlier in the morning, a procession brought union members, their families, and friends from Cinco Señores to the Basílica, where a special mass was celebrated to honor the patron saint of Oaxaca, la Virgen de la Soledad. Raul, a lifelong street sweeper whose work day begins at 3 AM, is quoted as explaining, “We have to thank our mother, the Virgin of Soledad, for the blessings every day gives us.”
March 3rd — brought to you by the gals and guys who keep the city clean.
Posted in Churches, Creativity, Culture, Health, People, Tragedy, Travel & Tourism, tagged Ayotzinapa, demonstrations, Escuela Normal Rural, graffiti, Guerrero, healthcare, La catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, Leonel Castro Abarca, marmotas, Mexico, monos, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, protests, Santo Domingo de Guzmán, street art, sunset, urban art, workers on January 17, 2015| 2 Comments »
Ahhh, it feels good to be back in the warm and wonderful Oaxaca. There are the sounds… I awake to church bells, followed by the loudspeaker cry of “Gas de Oaxaca” from the propane vendor. Last night, as I was heading to bed, rockets exploded and, just now, the camote man’s steam whistle sounded, announcing tooth-achingly sweetened hot sweet potatoes and bananas. Then there are the sights…
The walls continue to talk… On Thursday, I saw this on Calle Morelos as I walked to the Alcalá and comida with friends. It remembers Leonel Castro Abarca, one of the 43 still-missing students from Escuela Normal Rural Raúl Isidro Burgos teachers’ college in Ayotzinapa, Guerrero.
On the way home from comida, I detoured to see what was to be seen on the zócalo. Teacher tents remain pitched around the bandstand, but the walkways were free of ambulantes, and, as always, the Cathedral presided over the scene.
Thursday, the familiar sounds of protest were irresistible. I grabbed my camera and headed out the front gate to see a massive march by healthcare workers on their way to the Plaza de la Danza. To be honest, tubas and cohetes would have had me out the door, too! It was way too quiet in el norte.
And, what can I say about last night’s sunset from the terrace?
Naturally, a marmota and pair of monos were waiting on the plaza in front of Santo Domingo this afternoon, awaiting a bride and groom to emerge. After all, it is Saturday — wedding day in Oaxaca!
I wonder what my ears will hear and my eyes will see, mañana…
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Expat Blog, Expat interview, Mexico, monos, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on May 24, 2014| 6 Comments »
Yesterday, I was walking along calle de Flores Magón, and what to my wondering eyes did appear?
Husband and wife? Novia y novio?? “Just” friends???
I’ve got to say, they looked rather stiff and not very comfortable. Hope their trip was a short one!
By the way, if you want to read a little about my journey to Oaxaca and expat life, Expat Blog recently published an interview with me, American Expat Living in Mexico – Interview with Shannon. There is even a photo of a couple of monos supervising a banda. Perhaps friends of the above???
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Parks & Plazas, Travel & Tourism, tagged camouflage, culture, Mexico, monos, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Plaza de la Danza on February 10, 2014| Leave a Comment »
A mono in camo, seriously???
I guess it really is a jungle out there. But, it isn’t easy to stay hidden when your buddy is laughing at you.
Just another day crossing the Plaza de la Danza on my way to the market. As I keep saying, you just never know what you will uncover walking the streets of Oaxaca.
Mexican Peso Converter
View From Casita Colibrí 