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Archive for the ‘Travel & Tourism’ Category
Up against a wall in Oaxaca
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Transportation, Travel & Tourism, tagged car, Mexico, monos, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, Vocho, VW, wall colors, zebra stripes on January 14, 2024| 7 Comments »
Looking back on 2023
Posted in Agriculture, Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Food, Holidays, Museums, Sports, Textiles, Travel & Tourism, tagged construction site cross, food festival, José Garcia Antonío, Mexico, Mitla grecas, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, Teotitlán del Valle, views on December 31, 2023| 13 Comments »
Jean-Baptiste Racine’s quote, “Life is a comedy to those who think, a tragedy to those who feel” comes to mind when I reflect on 2023. Looking at the state of the world, I think many of us have spent the year vacillating between laughing and crying. However, on this New Year’s Eve, I prefer to remember the celebrations and places I experienced with family and friends, old and new. These are the times that nourish my soul and empower me to welcome 2024.
Many thanks to all the wonderful readers of my blog; I am constantly amazed and gratified you choose to stop by. On this New Year’s Eve, with a renewed appreciation for the small things that bring joy and give life meaning, I wish you all, ¡Feliz Año Nuevo!
Radishes and the artists who love them
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Mexico, Night of the Radishes, Noche de Rábanos, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, radish carving, radishes on December 23, 2023| 7 Comments »
If it’s December 23, it must be the “only in Oaxaca” Noche de Rábanos. I love going in the morning to watch these skilled artists and their imaginations at work creating exquisite sculptures out of radishes — of all things!
And, there weren’t just radishes. Creations of totomoxle (dried corn husks) and flor inmortal (dried flowers) were also on display. Stay tuned…
Teotitlán honors Guadalupe
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Danza de la Pluma, Día de Guadalupe, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, Teotitlán del Valle, Virgen de Guadalupe, Virgin of Guadalupe on December 15, 2023| 4 Comments »
All over Mexico on December 12th the country pauses to honor and celebrate the Virgin de Guadalupe, also known as the Queen of Mexico, Empress of America, and patron saint of Mexico. And, there is no place I would rather be on this day than in Teotitlán del Valle watching the Danza de la Pluma. The dance is a ritual reenactment of the battles between the Aztec and the Spanish conquistadors. In this Zapotec village, the dancers make a 3-year religious commitment to perform it at the four major religious festivals each year, including Guadalupe.
A profound muchisimas gracias to the people of Teotitlán del Valle for always being so warm and welcoming.
The Marias of December
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Día de la Virgen de Guadalupe, Día de la Virgen de Juquila, Mexico, Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, Virgen de La Soledad, Virgin Mary on December 7, 2023| Leave a Comment »
Hanukkah is upon us and Christmas is only weeks away. However, here in Oaxaca, it’s three images of the Virgin Mary who take center stage this month.
And, if you are in Oaxaca, please know the cohetes (rockets) will be exploding from early morning to late at night.
Walking with Amal in Oaxaca
Posted in Children, Creativity, Culture, Immigration, Travel & Tourism, tagged Amal en Oaxaca, calendas, Centro de Apoyo para Migrantes Universales Collin A.C., immigrants, La Pequeña Amal, Little Amal, Mexico, Oaxaca, parade, photos, popular travel destinations, puppets, refugees on November 29, 2023| 4 Comments »
Walking with Little Amal, known here as La Pequeña Amal, was a remarkable, moving, and hopeful experience. This 3.5 meter tall marionette, representing a 10-year old Syrian refugee girl searching for her mother, has traveled the world in her search — bringing a message of peace, respect, solidarity, and protection for all refugees.
At last Thursday’s calenda (parade), smiling school groups, some wearing traditional dress from the various regions of Oaxaca, held handmade signs proclaiming “Yes to peace no to war,” “Peace is achieved with love and understanding,” and for a “Life without borders.” Giant marmotas whirled, flashing messages of “Welcome” and “Amal, you are not alone” while a band played and China Oaxaqueña dancers danced their way down Oaxaca’s walking street. All the while, an amazingly lifelike Amal waved, shook hands, radiated with gratitude, and carried herself with dignity as she made her way from Santo Domingo to the Cathedral. I wasn’t the only one with tears in my eyes.
While in Oaxaca, Amal also visited Monte Albán to take in the spectacular archaeological zone, Santa María del Tule to try to hug the largest (in circumference) tree in the world, and 20 de noviembre market to receive a huge loaf of bread — a symbol of alleviating world hunger. Her last stop in Oaxaca was at Parque Morelos to bring her message of hope and support to the migrant families passing through Mexico on their way from Venezuela, Haiti, El Salvador and Nicaragua bound for the USA. It is in this park, a tireless group of volunteers from the non profit, Centro de Apoyo para Migrantes Universales Collin A.C., feed the unrelenting stream of refugees seven days a week. They also accept donations of clothing, blankets, backpacks, toiletries, and money. Click on their website for how and where to donate and/or to volunteer.
A bounty of gratitude
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged El Día de Acción de Gracias, guajolotes, Little Amal, markets, Mercado Hidalgo, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, produce, Thanksgiving, turkeys on November 23, 2023| 11 Comments »
I’ve always liked Thanksgiving — and not just because, after I turned 12, my aunt would pour a little red wine in a shot glass for my cousin and me. It’s one of the least commercial US holidays, if one discounts the whole “black Friday” phenomenon. And, it isn’t wrapped in flag waving. It’s a day set aside for a communal sharing of Mother Nature’s bounty, counting our blessings, and acknowledging and giving thanks for the assistance of the dark-skinned original human inhabitants of the Americas. What a novel idea!
I will be sharing this day with my apartment complex neighbors and some of our favorite friends. We have completed our major shopping expeditions in search of fresh cranberries, brussel sprouts, Vidalia onions, and other ingredients not commonly found in Oaxaca to contribute to our feast. (Thank you, Mercado Hidalgo!) Two small turkeys (2 because none of our ovens are big enough to fit a 20 lb turkey) have been purchased and we will all be contributing a side dish or two. It’s a busy day in this neighborhood!
Besides being thankful for my loving and supportive family, wonderful friends (both old and new), dedicated and encouraging blog readers (Yes, you!), I’m extremely grateful for having the privilege of having a home living among people whose ancestors first cultivated corn 10,000 years ago in this beautiful valley.
And, not only corn, archaeologists have discovered evidence of turkey domestication 1,500 years ago in the valley of Oaxaca’s Mitla Fortress. According to Gary Feinman, Field Museum curator of Mesoamerican anthropology, “It’s a bird very, very similar to what a lot of people are going to eat on Thursday.”
My cranberry/pear relish is in the refrigerator chilling. However, before making the dressing, I’m headed off to join with Little Amal in a calenda down the Macedonio Alcalá from Santo Domingo de Guzmán to Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción — bringing her message of “hope for displaced people everywhere, especially children who have been separated from their families.”
¡Feliz Día de Acción de Gracias!
Floral artistry for the dead
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged cemetery, day of the dead bread, Día de Muertos, flor de muerto, flowers, Mexico, Oaxaca, panteón, photos, popular travel destinations, San Antonino Castillo Velasco, tombs on November 16, 2023| 6 Comments »
On November 3rd, K and I headed to San Antonino Castillo Velasco — a Zapotec community 24 miles south of Oaxaca city. It is a village known for growing flowers and for the floral embroidery decorating its traditional blouses and dresses.
Their difuntos (departed souls) understand their families are busy providing flowers for altars and tombs in the surrounding villages in the valley and wait until November 3-4 to return and spend time with their living loved ones. Because floral design plays such an important role in the traditions and commerce of the village, it is carried over to the elaborate decorating of the tombs in the panteón (cemetery).
One of the flowers grown is the “flor inmortal” (immortal flower), so named because, even when dried, it retains its brilliant colors. Artisans in the village use these flowers to create intricately designed figures on display December 23 in the city of Oaxaca during Noche de Rábanos and to decorate the graves of loved ones during Día de Muertos.
In the cemetery villagers mix the area’s very fine dirt with water, cover the graves with this damp mud, and use a trowel to smooth it. Once dry, they outline designs and religious imagery into this mud canvas and use flowers (fresh and dried) to paint the scene. Entire families are involved — male and female, young and old. It is a labor of love and incredibly moving to behold.
Far from the madding muertos crowd
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged altars, Day of the Dead, Day of the Dead decor, Día de Muertos, Mexico, Oaxaca, offerings, ofrendas, photos, popular travel destinations, San Pablo Villa de Mitla, Teotitlán del Valle, Tlacolula de Matamoros on November 7, 2023| 5 Comments »
There is a duality surrounding the celebration of Día de Muertos (Days of the Dead) in Oaxaca. While most every home and many public buildings and businesses construct altars with ofrendas brimming with flowers, candles, bread, chocolate, fruit, nuts, beverages, copal incense, and often photos of the departed, there is a distinct difference between the traditions of the more mestizo communities (Oaxaca city and the Etlas, for example) and those of the indigenous communities. The former often includes raucous comparsas (parades) called muerteadas with costumes, masks, painted faces, music, and “adult beverages.” According to the book, Day of the Dead: When Two Worlds Meet in Oaxaca, the muerteada allows the dead “to ‘occupy’ a living body, either a muerteada participant or an audience member, for a time, and therefore enjoy the entertainment directly rather than vicariously.”
However, in the indigenous villages these days are more solemn, filled with ritual, and are family oriented. I lean toward this more spiritual observance, so I escaped the craziness of the daily comparsas and drunken crowds in the city and went to stay in the Zapotec village of Teotitlán del Valle with my compadres (including comadre K) and to shop in Tlacolula for pan de muertos (bread), candles, and flowers to take to the ofrendas of families K and I have a relationship with in Teotitlán and San Pablo Villa de Mitla.
While the Día de Muertos observances may differ, the bottom line in both city and pueblo is to provide a welcome worthy of both the living as hosts and the dead as honored guests.
Exposition of altars
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged altars, bread of the dead, cempasúchil, Day of the Dead, Día de Muertos, flowers, marigolds, Mexico, Oaxaca, offerings, ofrendas, pan de muerto, photos, popular travel destinations on October 29, 2023| 15 Comments »
Oaxaca is alive with preparations for Día de Muertos and the Zócalo is filled with altars from her indigenous and Afromexican communities.
The scent of cempasúchil (marigolds) fills the air and beckons the difuntos (souls of the departed) to eat, drink, and be merry with their living loved ones.
Amate Books is back in town!
Posted in Books, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Amate Books, Barrio de Jalatlaco, bookstores, Catrinas, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations on October 23, 2023| 17 Comments »
Attention residents and visitors: After a much lamented three year absence, Amate Books has once again opened its doors to book lovers — this time at Aldama 318, in the hip and happening Barrio de Jalatlaco. Yes, my neighborhood, so I’m especially happy.
The new store is bright and welcoming with well stocked shelves of (mostly) English language fiction, nonfiction, and children’s books. In addition, as in the past, there is a carefully curated selection of folk art, small gift items, and (drum roll, please) postcards.
Even La Catrina, in her sartorial splendor, has returned to welcome patrons, old and new.
Today, stepping through the door, being greeted by the smiling face of longtime employee Carmen, and surrounded by knowledge and imagination, I felt a sense of peace and tranquility from the chaos of today’s world. If or when you are in town, make sure to stop by and support this local treasure. The store is open daily. (I’ll post the hours when I know for sure.) In the meantime, a big thank you to Henry Wangeman for reopening Amate Books!
Celebrating a seasonal dish
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Food, food festival, Travel & Tourism, tagged culinary traditions, Festival del Mole de Caderas, food festival, Huaxmole de Caderas, Mexico, Mixtec regional dish, Mole de Caderas, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, regional cuisine, traditional cuisine, video on October 17, 2023| 4 Comments »
This past weekend, the city held a three-day celebration of Mole de Caderas — a traditional seasonal Mixtec dish from Huajuapan de León, Oaxaca and nearby Tehuacán, Puebla. It is only served during the fall, when the goats are made to make the ultimate sacrifice — and it is absolutely delicious!
This special dish is made from the hip (caderas) and the spine of goats that have been raised for one and a half years. Starting in July they are fattened on the forage unique to the hills of the Mixteca, large amounts of salt, and a little water — this is what provides the meat with fat, softness, and juiciness and gives the broth its distinctive flavor. In early fall, when the shepherds have brought the goats back to the farms, there is a ritual filled celebration that includes offerings, incense, music, and dancing, including a dance with the goats — all in honor of the goats who were about to give their lives to feed the population.
At last Friday’s opening of the festival, there were dignitaries galore (including the governor of Oaxaca), multiple speeches, and a moving procession with two goats to the tune of Canción Mixteca, a song which always brings tears to my eyes. It was followed by a dance with the goats and a stylized reenactment of the ritual killing of the goats (no actual blood was spilled).
We were then funneled through a palapa decorated tunnel to the tented dining area, where traditional cooks from Huajuapan de León and Oaxaca city waited proudly behind booths displaying ollas (clay pots) filled with steaming Mole de Caderas and Huaxmole de Caderas. Hmmmm… I wondered what the difference was between Huaxmole de Caderas and Mole de Caderas.
Once home, a little research ensued (I am a librarian, after all) and I found that both dishes share common preparation and major ingredients. However, Huaxmole de Caderas is distinguished with the addition of toasted seeds from the huaje (also spelled guaje) tree — the tree that gave Oaxaca its name. Whereas, Mole de Caderas is prepared with green beans. However, if huajes are added to the latter, it is considered Huaxmole de Caderas. The herb, chepiche (aka, pepicha) is also used and, at the festival, both chepiche and huaje were used to garnish the plates.
By the way, there were also fresh tortillas, hot off the comal, and booths offering goat tacos, sweets, aguas, and mezcal from the Mixtec region.
References:
El mole de caderas, un plato insignia de la Mixteca
¡Ojo aquí! Estas son las diferencias entre el Mole de Caderas y el Huaxmole
Oaxaca is a walking meditation
Posted in Buildings, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, street scenes, walking quotes on October 8, 2023| 8 Comments »
Oaxaca is a walking city and, even when running mundane errands, there is always something to see, something to make me smile, and something to make me think.
“The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.” — Lao Tzu
“If you are in a bad mood go for a walk. If you are still in a bad mood go for another walk.” — Hippocrates
“Walking is the rhythm of life.” — Gary Snyder
“An early morning walk is a blessing for the whole day.” — Henry David Thoreau
“Walking takes longer…than any other known form of locomotion except crawling. Thus it stretches time and prolongs life. Life is already too short to waste on speed.” — Edward Abbey
Domesticated by corn
Posted in Agriculture, Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Food, Travel & Tourism, tagged Carina Santiago, corn, Día Nacional del Maíz, food, Los Guardianes del Maíz (documentary), maíz, Mexico, murals, National Day of Corn, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, street art, Teotitlán del Valle, urban art, wall art on September 29, 2023| 6 Comments »
Today, September 29, Mexico celebrates Día Nacional del Maíz — a day honoring the sacred maíz, symbol of the country and base food crop for most of the nation. In Oaxaca, one never has to look far to see corn and not just in fields. Corn is depicted in murals, featured in decorations, and (of course) on most every dining table, most every day.
In the words of cocinera tradicional Carina Santiago, at the beginning of the trailer (below) for the tremendous documentary, Los Guardianes del Maíz / The Keepers of Corn, “Corn was not domesticated by man, man was domesticated by corn.”
Day in mezcal country
Posted in Beverages, Culture, Food, Travel & Tourism, tagged agave fields, Los Huamuches, Mexico, mezcal, Oaxaca, palenques, photos, popular travel destinations, restaurants, tlayudas on September 22, 2023| 6 Comments »
It’s been several years (thanks, Covid and bloqueos) since blogger buddy Chris and I made a road trip along our favorite mezcal route. From the city we headed southeast on highway 190 — passing Tlacolula de Matamoros and Santiago Matatlán and marveling at the proliferation of agave fields along the way.
We turned west on the San Dionisio Ocotepec/Ocotlán de Morelos road, en route to San Baltazar Chichicapam and the palenque of Faustino García Vázques — a palenquero we have known for many years. There was no answer as we rapped several times on the portón, so we ventured a few doors down to his home, knocked, and were rewarded with the familiar face of his wife opening the gate. How lovely it was to sit in their expanding family compound and catch up on their life and business. And, then there was the mezcal.
After being offered a tasting from a jicara of Faustino’s 2023 espadin, we each bought 5 liters of this most excellent mezcal. He poured it into our plastic containers that, once home, would be decanted into glass bottles — some to be stored in our liquor cabinets and others to be stashed away for gifts. By the time we turned north onto highway 175 at Ocotlán de Morelos, hunger beckoned. Lucky for us, Los Huamuches, our “go to” roadside restaurant between Santo Tomás Jalieza and San Martín Tilcajete, wasn’t far away.
We each ordered our “usual” — costillas (ribs) for my blogger buddy and a tlayuda with tasajo for me. It was a delicious and delightul day!
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