Under the sun dappled light filtering through the 500 year old ahuehuete trees, there was stillness and peace.
November 2, 2022 in the panteón of Tlacolula de Matamoros.
Posts Tagged ‘marigolds’
Still life in the panteón
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged cemetery, cempasúchitl, Day of the Dead, Día de Muertos, flowers, fruit, marigolds, Mexico, Oaxaca, panteón, photos, popular travel destinations, Tlacolula de Matamoros on November 17, 2022| 5 Comments »
Ofrendas there and here
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Neighborhoods, Travel & Tourism, tagged altars, Barrio de Jalatlaco, candles, cempasúchitl, Day of the Dead, Día de Muertos, flowers, images of the saints, marigolds, Mexico, Oaxaca, ofrendas, papel picado, photos, popular travel destinations, Teotitlán del Valle on November 10, 2022| 8 Comments »
Every Día de Muertos, I love seeing the artistry of public ofrendas, feel honored being welcomed into the homes of friends and placing pan de muertos on their very personal ofrendas, and enjoy assembling my own ofrenda to departed loved ones. (Click on each image to see the details.)
I love the spicy and welcoming scents of cempasúchitl (marigolds), lacy flor de muerto from the Sierra Norte, pan de muertos, and incense of copal.
Day in the country, part 4
Posted in Animals, Beverages, Culture, Flora, Gardens, Travel & Tourism, tagged agave, cempasúchitl, cockscomb, flowers, grasshoppers, José Alberto Pablo, marigolds, Mexico, mezcal, mezcal palenque, Oaxaca, popular travel destinations, rusty mezcal, San Bernardo Mixtepec on November 11, 2021| 6 Comments »
Our Day in the country’s final destination was San Bernardo Mixtepec. The scenery was spectacular as we drove south from Zimatlán de Álvarez, through the valley, and northeast up into the mountains. It was mid October, nearing Día de Muertos and in the valley there were fields filled with cempasúchitl (marigolds) and cresta de gallo (cockscomb) waiting to be picked for altars. In the meantime, they were being enjoyed by a local grasshopper.
Navigating the narrow, winding, and steep roads, we eventually arrived at the palenque and family home of José Alberto Pablo and his father Mario. Perched on the side of a mountain, it offers stunning views.
Fermentation is done in clay pots in a specially built room, and clay pots are used for distillation. In an eco-friendly feature, he recirculates the condenser water rather than letting it drain into a stream.
At some point in the history of San Bernardo Mixtepec, a persuasive vendor must have introduced the palenqueros to enameled metal condensers. Over time they rust and deposit a small amount of rust into the mezcal — giving it a distinctive yellow-orange color. According to José Alberto, the villagers have become so accustomed to the color, they are reluctant to drink clear mezcal.
Yes, we bought! I came away with a lovely rusty tobalá. By the way, they also use stainless and copper condensers to make clear rust-less mezcal — for the less adventurous and to satisfy the mezcal regulatory board.
Altars and offerings in Jalatlaco
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Religion, tagged altars, Barrio de Jalatlaco, calacas, calaveras, candles, catrinas and catrins, cempasúchitl, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Día de Muertos, fruit, Galería Shadai, Los Pilares Hotel and Restaurant - Flowers, marigolds, Oaxaca, ofrendas, pan de muertos, papel picado, photos, popular travel destinations, skeletons, skulls, sugar skulls on November 1, 2021| 16 Comments »
Day of the Dead altars and their offerings to the departed vary from region to region and, within those regions, from family to family. Ofrendas (offerings) are an integral part of Día de Muertos. They are a beacon to the departed, an ephemeral work of art, and the sum of their lovingly chosen parts. As you can see from the photos below from several in Barrio de Jalatlaco, even on public display, they are intensely personal and creative.
Galería Shadai – Flowers, papel picado, candles, incense, pan de muertos, fruit, nuts, a casserole, and beverages.
And, there is a catrina tapete de arena (sand carpet) made of sand, beans, and flowers.
However, the only photo is of Maestro Francisco Toledo placed on a side pedestal.
Los Pilares Hotel and Restaurant – Flowers, papel picado, catrinas and catrins, candles, fruit, pan de muertos, and beverages.
And, there is a beautiful floral arch.
No photos of loved ones, but it’s a love story to the state of Oaxaca.
Family ofrenda – 5 de mayo at the corner of La Alianza. Family photos of the departed take center stage with papel picado, cempasúchitl (marigolds), and skeletons playing supporting roles.
Then there are those magnificent floral candles like one sees in Teotitlán del Valle.
And, lest the departed can’t find their way home in the greatly expanded city, an old photo and skeletons await outside the altar alcove to show the way.
Last but not least, my altar and offerings. It was a creative challenge to set up in the new Casita Colibrí.
It’s smaller than previous years, but I have figured out a way to make it bigger and better next year.
A yellow (color of death in pre-hispanic southern Mexico) tablecloth; papel picado (cut tissue paper) signifying the union between life and death; cempasúchitl (marigolds) and flor de muerto from the Sierra Norte, their scent to guide the spirits; and cresta de gallo (cockscomb) to symbolize mourning. There is salt to make sure the souls stay pure and chocolate, peanuts, pecans, apples, mandarin oranges, and pan de muertos (Day of the Dead bread) to nourish them. The sweet smell of copal incense and its smoke help guide my loved ones to the fiesta I have prepared for them. There is water to quench their thirst, as they travel between worlds, not to mention mezcal and cervesa (beer). And, there are the tangible remembrances of my departed — photos and some of their favorite things.
With candles lit and incense burning, I’m loving it and hoping my very dearly departed will find it warm, nourishing, and welcoming.
Jalatlaco prepares for her muertos
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Barrio de Jalatlaco, cempasúchitl, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Día de Muertos, marigolds, Mexico, Muertos decorations, Oaxaca, papel picado, photos, skeletons, skulls on October 31, 2021| 19 Comments »
My new neighborhood, Barrio de Jalatlaco, has a long history — one that predates the arrival of the Spanish. Community spirit and traditions are strong, including making her departed feel welcome during Día de Muertos. Thus the bright orange and spicy scent of the flor de muerto, cempasúchitl (flower of the dead, marigolds) are everywhere.
Papel picado, in seasonal colors, ripple above the streets and cast fluttering shadows.
Floral arches welcome the living and the departed.
And skeletons are seen hanging out in doorways, windows, and sidewalks.
Tomorrow, altars and their offerings.
Hearts and flowers of Muertos
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged artists taking action, catrina Juchiteca, cempasúchil, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Día de Muertos, hearts, marigolds, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, plastic recycling, recycling bins, recycling hearts, skulls, urban art on November 1, 2020| 2 Comments »
Even the recycling bins in Oaxaca are getting into the spirit of Day of the Dead.
And cempasúchil (marigolds) to beckon the difuntos (departed), plastic bottles, and tin cans.
Invitation to my departed
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged altars, calaveritas, Catrinas, cempasuchil, coronavirus fallout, COVID-19 fallout, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Día de Muertos, flowers, incense, marigolds, Mexico, Oaxaca, ofrenda, papel picado, photos on October 30, 2020| 8 Comments »
These are strange days leading up to our departed coming to call while we are living in the time of Covid-19. With public activities canceled, thus no nightly calendas (parades) filling the streets and our ears, and fewer tourists, Oaxaca is experiencing more peace and tranquility this Day of the Dead season — albeit laced with a touch of melancholy and anxiety.
Masked and shielded, I braved the mostly local crowds south of the zócalo, to shop for cempasuchil (marigolds), cresta de gallo (cockscomb), apples, mandarin oranges, peanuts and pecans, chocolate, and pan de muertos (Day of the Dead bread) — but it wasn’t nearly as much fun as years past.
However, the joy returned when I unwrapped photographs of my parents, grandparents, and other loved ones; selected some of their favorite things to put on my ofrenda; placed the fruit, nuts, bread, and chocolate among the photos; positioned candles, flowers, and incense; and poured my departed a copita (little cup) of water and another of mezcal — all to beckon, entertain, and sustain them during their brief stay.
I’m looking forward to a more personal and reflective Día de Muertos this year.
Marigolds for Muertos
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Flora, Travel & Tourism, tagged cempasúchil, coronavirus fallout, COVID-19 fallout, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Día de Muertos, marigolds, photos on October 26, 2020| Leave a Comment »
Cempasúchil (marigolds), the flowers synonymous with Day of the Dead, have begun appearing throughout the city. Alas, not in the quantity we are used to.
As I have written previously, because of the acceleration of the Covid-19 cases, the City of Oaxaca will not permit public Day of the Dead celebrations and events.
So it’s a subdued Día de Muertos season we are living.
While the yellows and oranges of the marigolds seem to mirror the semáforo amarillo and naranja (yellow and orange Covid-19 traffic lights) we are bouncing between, they brighten the days and impart a familiar and welcome scent.
Offerings to my departed
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged altars, calaveritas, Catrinas, cempasuchitl, Día de los Muertos, flowers, incense, marigolds, Mexico, Oaxaca, ofrenda, papel picado, photographs, photos, sugar skulls, veruche on October 31, 2018| 17 Comments »
As my grandchildren finished their trick or treating up in el norte, I put the final touches on my Día de los Muertos ofrenda (offering) here in Oaxaca.
A yellow (the color of death in pre-hispanic southern Mexico) cloth covers two chests; papel picado (cut tissue paper), signifying the union between life and death, has been added, along with the traditional flowers of Day of the Dead — cempasúchil and veruche (domesticated and wild marigolds), their scent to guide the spirits, and cockscomb to symbolize mourning. Visitors brought the sunflower and, since my grandfather, father, and father-in-law were avid gardeners, it is for them!
There is salt to make sure the souls stay pure and chocolate, peanuts, pecans, apples, mandarin oranges, and pan de muertos (Day of the Dead bread) to nourish them.
The sweet smell of copal incense and its smoke help guide my loved ones to the feast I have prepared. And, there is water to quench their thirst, as they travel between worlds, not to mention mezcal and cervesa (beer).
But, most important of all, there are the tangible remembrances of my departed — photos and some of their favorite things.
Revolutionary catrina and catrin for my revolutionary comadre and compadre, Sylvia and Nat.
Yarn and a crochet hook for my dear grandmother who many of the abuelas (grandmothers) in Oaxaca remind me of — always wearing an apron, never wearing pants, and incredibly adept with crochet and embroidery thread. And, for my adored grandfather, a San Francisco Giants baseball cap. My grandparents moved next door at the same time the Giants moved from New York to San Francisco and grandpa and I listened to many games together on his transistor radio, as I helped him in the garden.
There are other cherished friends and relatives on my altar, but pride of place goes to my parents. For my father, who was killed when I was only two and a half, there is beer (below the above photo) — alas Victoria not Burgermeister! And for my mother, a fan to cool herself as she dances and a bottle of port to sip before she sleeps.
It’s been a two-day labor of love as I wanted everything to be perfect for my difutos (departed) to find their way and feel welcome in my Oaxaca home.
Miles of marigolds
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Flora, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged cempasúchil, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Día de Muertos, flowers, marigolds, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, zócalo on October 22, 2018| 6 Comments »
Today the sun (finally) came out and hundreds (thousands?) of pots of cempasúchil (aka, cempoalxóchitl, cempaxochitl, cempoal, zempoal, flor de muertos) arrived in the city center.
This was a photo op not only for yours truly but also the local press, as they trailed after the wife of Oaxaca’s governor while she viewed the unloading…
and planting of the iconic Día de los Muertos flowers in the beds of the Zócalo and Alameda.
The color and fragrance of the cempasúchil provide a lovely setting to sit and contemplate the world (and check your cell phone).
Oaxaca is putting on her best to welcome her difuntos (deceased) along with the thousands of tourists who will soon be arriving.
Muertos photo challenge y mas…
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged cempasuchitl, chocolate skulls, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, marigolds, Mexico, muerteada, Oaxaca, pan de muerto, panteón, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Santa María Atzompa, skeletons on October 29, 2016| 6 Comments »
Celebrations in Oaxaca surrounding Día de Muertos are beginning. This past week, we, members of the Mexico Travel Photography Facebook group, were issued a 5-day “Day of the Dead” photo challenge by moderator, Norma Schafer. There are always so many favorite images from so many events that I never get around to posting, so this was my opportunity. My five…
Panteón, Santa María Atzompa, Oaxaca on Oct. 31, 2015
Offering on tomb in Panteón Municipal de Tlacolula de Matamoros, Oaxaca on Nov. 1, 2015
Muerteada, morning after the night before, Nov. 2, 2014, San Agustín Etla, Oaxaca
Sun sets on Santa María Atzompa panteón, Oct. 31, 2014
On the Alcalá in Oaxaca City, Oct. 31, 2014
And, five more, just because…
Santa María Atzompa, Oct. 31, 2015
San Pablo Villa de Mitla, ofrenda with pan de muertos, Nov. 1, 2014
Chocolate calaveras at Villa de Etla, Oct. 31, 2014
Cempasuchil (marigold) vendor at Villa de Etla, Oct. 31, 2014
Casa de las Artesanías de Oaxaca, Oct. 31, 2015
That’s all folks, for now. Stay tuned for more to come from this year.
Season of marigolds
Posted in Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged cempasuchitl, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Día de Muertos, flowers, marigolds, Oaxaca, photographs, photos on October 18, 2016| 1 Comment »
Marigolds have begun appearing in the city. The yellow of this flor de muertos (flower of the dead) will help guide the difuntos (deceased) home to feast with their families during the upcoming Día de Muertos (Day of the Dead) celebrations. Known as cempazuchil (also spelled cempasúchitl), flower pots and/or vases of marigolds may find their way onto ofrendas (the offerings on home altars for the difuntos). Some scatter the petals on their muertos altar, others in a trail leading from the street into the house and up to the ofrenda.
Next week, seasonal Day of the Dead markets will spring up and shopping will go into high gear. Needless to say, I will join in buying the traditional fruits, nuts, flowers, and sugar skulls to place on my ofrenda. And, along with friends, I will pay my respects to the difuntos of friends in Teotitlán del Valle. It’s a special time of year in Oaxaca.
Once a librarian, always a librarian, thus a few resources about Day of the Dead:
- 12 Facts About El Día De Muertos That Show Just How Special It Is
- Top 10 Things to Know About the Day of the Dead
A brief note: Celebrations vary throughout Mexico and, even in the valley of Oaxaca, traditions differ from village to village, but the above articles will give you a general idea. You can also click HERE for my Día de Muertos blog posts from previous years.
Veruche vendor
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Flora, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged cempasuchitl, Day of the Dead, Día de Muerto, flor de muertos, flowers, marigolds, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, veruche on October 30, 2015| 4 Comments »
Today I ventured down to Calle de Ignacio Rayón (the block between the Benito Juárez and 20 de Noviembre mercados) to purchase flowers for my Día de Muertos ofrenda (an altar of offerings). On the list was cockscomb (cresta de gallo or borla de Santa Teresa), marigolds (cempasúchitl), and veruche (also known as flor de muertos). I wasn’t alone, the sidewalks were crowded with other shoppers in search of the same traditional flowers, fruits, nuts, copal, and other items to place on their ofrendas.
Veruche is a tiny relative of the marigold that grows wild in the valley of Oaxaca at this time of year. Yellow was the color of death in southern Mexico, long before the Spanish set foot on the continent and, along with the scent of the flowers and smoke from the candles and copal, it is thought to attract the difuntos (spirits of the dead) to bring them to the ofrendas prepared for them.
Muchisimas gracias to Shawn D. Haley for his informative presentation at the Oaxaca Lending Library on the Zapotec celebration of Día de Muertos. Needless to say, I also purchased the book he coauthored with photographer Curt Fukuda, The Day of the Dead: When Two Worlds Meet in Oaxaca.
Hope amidst decay…
Posted in Buildings, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Travel & Tourism, tagged art, art installation, cempasuchitl, Dream of Elpis, El Sueño de Elpis, exhibition, marigolds, Mauricio Cervantes, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos on December 3, 2012| 10 Comments »
On Saturday, thanks to MexicoRetold, I stepped through the doorway and entered El Sueño de Elpis (the dream of Elpis), an art installation by Mauricio Cervantes in one of the many abandoned buildings in the city center.
In Greek mythology, Elpis was usually depicted carrying flowers and was the spirit of hope. She alone chose to remain when Pandora opened the lid of her infamous box.
I arrived a little after 10 AM. The glow of morning light on the colors and textures of this crumbling beauty and her furnishings was captivating — and I was reluctant to leave.
Elpis and her dream will continue to offer hope for another 3-1/2 weeks at Murguía 103 (between Macedonio Alcalá and 5 de mayo). There were candles — and according to the docent, it is especially magical at dusk.
I will return. Keep dreaming…
Altar-ed state of shopping
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Food, Holidays, Markets, Travel & Tourism, tagged calaveras, cempasuchitl, Day of the Dead, day of the dead bread, Días de Muertos, food, incense burners, marigolds, markets, mercados, Mexico, Oaxaca, ofrenda, popular travel destinations, puestos, sugar skulls, Tlacolula de Matamoros, vendor stalls on October 30, 2012| 2 Comments »
Sunday, blogger buddy Chris and I drove out to Tlacolula for market day. It didn’t take long to realize this wasn’t your usual Sunday market — there seemed to be twice the number vendors and twice as many shoppers. It was the Sunday before the Días de los Muertos and this mega mercado was providing those who live in the surrounding area with everything they could possible need for their ofrendas (Day of the Dead altars).
Mounds of apples, tangerines, and other fruit.
Rows upon rows of pan de muerto (the special Day of the Dead bread).
Wheelbarrows full of peanuts and pecans.
And, in the city of Oaxaca, special Muertos vendor stalls have been set up between the Benito Juárez Mercado and 5 de Mayo Mercado for city dwellers to stock up. Intricately decorated sugar and chocolate skulls (calaveras) to satisfy the sweet tooth of Mictlantecuhtli (Goddess of Death).
Decorated clay incense burners…
waited to burn copal resin and perfume the air with its wonderful, and now familiar, scent.
Doll house size tables were filled with miniature clay food and beverages (favorites of the departed) …
and included these diminutive plates of mole and arroz (rice) — which I couldn’t resist buying for my altar!
And, of course, there were mounds and mounds of Cempazuchitl (marigolds), the flower of the dead, that grows wild in Oaxaca at this time of year.
All the necessary purchases have been made, now to build my ofrenda.
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