Plumeria (aka, Frangipani, Flor de mayo) currently bringing their fragrance to the Casita Colibrí terrace…
As the saying goes, April showers bring May flowers — even if it’s still April!
Archive for the ‘Travel & Tourism’ Category
May flowers
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Flora, Gardens, Travel & Tourism, tagged Casita Colibrí, Flor de mayo, flowers, frangipani, gardens, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, plumeria, popular travel destinations on April 10, 2018| 4 Comments »
Blooming bunny ears
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Flora, Gardens, Travel & Tourism, tagged cactus flowers, garden, Mexico, Oaxaca, opuntia microdasys, photographs, photos, Spring on April 7, 2018| 4 Comments »
My Opuntia microdasys are blooming and, like the jacarandas, their blossoms are a subtle sign that spring has sprung in Oaxaca.
It is commonly known as “bunny ears” or, in Mexico, “alas de ángel” (angel wings) — though I can see nothing angelic about them and you certainly don’t want to pet those fuzzy looking paddles. Those glochids (hair-like spines) are nasty. I know from personal experience!
I have two large pots of them — one with white glochids and the other with yellow. However, despite my personal run-ins with them both, I’m still in search of the rust colored variety.
A procession proceeds
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Easter, Good Friday, Holy Week, Mexico, Oaxaca, Pascuas, photographs, photos, Procesión del Silencio, Procession of Silence, San Pedro, Señor de La Columna, Viernes Santo, Virgen de La Soledad, Virgen de los Dolores, Virgin Mary on April 4, 2018| 4 Comments »
As darkness fell and a hush stilled the spectators, the Procession of Silence proceeded along the prescribed route.
Good Friday in Oaxaca.
A procession prepares
Posted in Churches, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Easter, Good Friday, Holy Week, Mexico, Oaxaca, Pascuas, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Procesión del Silencio, Procession of Silence, religious banners, religious images, Semana Santa, Viernes Santo on April 1, 2018| 2 Comments »
Though it threatened to rain on the parade, hours before the Procession of Silence was scheduled to start, crowds began lining the Macedonio Alcalá to watch as procession participants prepared for the sixteen block silent journey through some of Oaxaca’s main streets.
As Chris mentioned, in his blog post, there seemed to be many more women taking part.
Please keep silent, the procession is about to begin…
7 Churches on Jueves Santo
Posted in Churches, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, blessed bread, Catedral Metropolitana de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, Cathedral of Oaxaca, Holy Thursday, Holy Week, Jueves Santo, Maundy Thursday, Mexico, Oaxaca, pan bendito, photographs, photos, Semana Santa, Templo de la Compañía de Jesus, Templo de San Felipe Neri, Templo de San José, Templo del Carmen Alto, Templo del Carmen Bajo on March 30, 2018| 8 Comments »
Last night I joined in the Oaxaca tradition of visiting seven churches (la visita de las siete casas) on Jueves Santo (Holy Thursday, Maundy Thursday). According to Wikipedia, “The tradition of visiting seven churches on Holy Thursday probably originated in Rome, as early pilgrims visited the seven basilicas as penance.” Last year I missed it, albeit for an excellent reason, as I spent much of Semana Santa (Holy Week) in Teotitlán del Valle with the family of Porfirio Gutierrez.
This year, my first stop was just around the corner at Templo de San José, where I bought my pan bendito from a couple of women selling small bags of the traditional blessed bread from a little table just inside the front door. The entrance to this church is small and it was crowded with parishioners trying to get to the mass that was in progress, so I opted not to stop to take photos. As I exited and made my way across Jardín Socrates (packed with people enjoying nieves), enroute to Basilica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, there were more blessed bread vendors set up in Soledad’s atrium.
The doors to the Basilica were closed and the “traveling” Soledad was standing under a giant tent in the atrium. However, I followed the faithful to a tiny side chapel where a miniature image of Soledad appeared, behind iron bars and glass, like an apparition.
My next stop was along Calle Independencia — at Templo de San Felipe Neri, where I was met with gridlock. I joined the crowd in practicing patience and persistence as I navigated my way to the entrance, which was also serving as the exit — for some unknown reason the side door was closed.
Less than a block away, my next destination was the Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción. It took almost ten minutes to wind my way through the masses of people (tourists, vendors, performers, and other Jueves Santo pilgrims) crowding the street and the Alameda. A mass was in progress and the pews were packed — even in the side chapels, it was standing room only. However, it was here, amidst thousands, I had the good fortune of running into a dear Oaxaca friend I hadn’t seen for many months.
Leaving the Cathedral, I met the same foot traffic jam when crossing the zócalo to Templo de la Compañía de Jesús. However, once there, leave it to the Jesuits to have the entrada y salida (entrance and exit) logistics worked out!
Exiting the “salida” door, I took a side street to avoid the zócalo and Alameda. By this time darkness had fallen, the uneven and potholed sidewalks had become even more treacherous, and so taking care not to also fall, I headed to Templo del Carmen de Abajo. Though not crowded, it too had separate doors marked for entering and exiting. And here, too, I ran into someone I knew — this time a new acquaintance from Palm Sunday in San Antonino Castillo Velasco.
I couldn’t even get near the doorway of Santo Domingo de Guzmán, so I gave up on that visit and turned towards Templo del Carmen Alto and, on my way there, ran into one of my neighbors! Even when it’s filled with tens of thousands of tourists, it’s a small world in Oaxaca. Once at Carmen Alto, I joined a throng of people walking down the main aisle, when a procession, led by an incense swinging altar boy, came up behind us asking for permission to pass — the gal behind me had a very close call with the incense burner.
I had visited seven churches in seventy minutes and, by the time I left Carmen Alto, my feet were sore and hunger and home beckoned. However, I was left with warm feelings of having greeted friends and been out and about with the people of my adopted city.
Banner procession
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Brotherhood of the Most Holy Rosary, Catedral Metropolitana de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, Cathedral of Oaxaca, estandartes, hermandad del Santísimo Rosario, Holy Week, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Procesión de Estandartes, Procession of Banners, religious banners, Semana Santa, video on March 29, 2018| 4 Comments »
Semana Santa (Holy Week) is in full flower in Oaxaca, the streets are filled with tourists, both domestic and international, and the city is very helpfully distributing a schedule of the most important activities for this Easter season. Thus, on Tuesday evening I walked down to Independencia, which had been blocked to traffic, for the Procesión de Estandartes (Procession of Banners) — leaving from the Basílica de La Soledad and arriving at the Cathedral, a few blocks away.
The banners were carried by the members of the hermandad del Santísimo Rosario (Brotherhood of the Most Holy Rosary) and numbered well over 100.
In addition, the Chinas Oaxaqueñas de Casilda carried an image of Nuestra Señora del Rosario (Our Lady of the Rosary), the patron saint of the brotherhood.
Once all the banners had reached the plaza in front of the Cathedral, the way parted for Our Lady of the Rosary to enter the Cathedral.
The banners followed and were carefully positioned next to special lighting along the aisle walls on either side of the Cathedral. It was quite stunning!
An hour-long choral concert followed — nothing like listening to sacred music under the soaring ceiling of Catedral Metropolitana de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción. They had even installed video monitors, so all could see the orchestra and singers.
I returned to the Cathedral the next day to view the banners “up close and personal” and discovered informational labels had been placed in front of each estandarte — listing the date made, affiliated church, church festival, and the sponsor of the banner.
They will once again hit the road late tomorrow afternoon to join Good Friday’s, Procesión del Silencio (Procession of Silence).
Priest, palms, produce, and procession
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Food, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Domingo de Palmas, Domingo de Ramos, Holy Week, Mexico, Oaxaca, offerings, Palm Sunday, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, priests, religion, San Antonino Castillo Velasco, San Salvador image, Semana Santa on March 26, 2018| 23 Comments »
If it’s Domingo de Ramos (Palm Sunday), I must be in San Antonino Castillo Velasco. I know there must be other villages that have colorful and moving celebrations, but the magic of San Antonino compels me to return year after year. Who can resist the spectacle outside the village panteón of watching el Señor del Burro be piled high with a cornucopia of fruits and vegetables and festooned with garlands of peppers and pan (bread)?
And, besides, each year there is always something a little new and different. To wit, in previous years parishioners presented their offerings with great pride to a committee of three or four women who formally received the donations, thanked the benefactors, and priced the items (for sale later in the day to benefit the work of the church). However, this year, in addition to offering blessings, it was the priest who interceded between the donors and the pricing committee to receive and express gratitude to each person for their contribution — be they grand or humble.
Once the young priest finished receiving the goods, he donned his ceremonial robes, offered prayers, and blessed everything (including my camera!) and everyone with holy water. This was the cue for palm fronds to be distributed to all and the altar boys and girls and disciples to assemble.
With the burro fully loaded, a team of 20+ extremely strong men hoisted the litter carrying the image of San Salvador atop the burro and, followed by villagers and visitors carrying the remainder of the goods collected, the journey to the church set off — a ritual reenactment of the Biblical story of Jesus entering Jerusalem to celebrate the Passover. As the procession made its way to the church, the rhythmic sounds of the drum and horn leading the way were occasionally overpowered by shouts warning the men of topes (speed bumps) and low hanging telephone wires that must be navigated.
The route is at least a kilometer from the panteón to San Antonino Obispo church and yesterday the sun was blazing, with not a cloud in the sky. It is a grueling act of faith for the men who bear this massive burden. The final hurtle was making their way up the steps and under the arch leading to the church atrium, where a platform to place el Señor del Burro awaited.
By 1:00 PM, the bounty to be sold had been hand (head) carried or trucked to the display area set up on the opposite side of the church atrium and it was time for the outdoor mass to commence. Thus, it was also time for us to duck out to browse the accompanying expo-venta of fabulous San Antonino embroidered blouses and dresses, flor inmortal artisan creations, the amazing and ongoing work of José García Antonio, the blind potter, and lastly find our favorite empanada vendor in the maze of food and artisan stalls set up outside the atrium walls. Yummm…
You should also check out the Oaxaca-The Year After blog– rumor has it that Chris will be posting a video of the procession in the next day or two (or three).
Abandoned beauty
Posted in Buildings, Creativity, Travel & Tourism, tagged abandoned buildings, buildings, crumbling walls, doors, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos on March 22, 2018| 2 Comments »
… and danger!
Doorways propped up with 2x4s, yellow caution tape, and continuing aftershocks — this is one of the many buildings in Oaxaca that has me walking on the opposite, even if sunny, side of the street.
Purple rain
Posted in Flora, History, Music, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged color lavender, immigrants, jacaranda, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Spring, Tatsugoro Matsumoto, trees on March 19, 2018| 9 Comments »
The jacarandas are heralding spring’s approach.
Bathing in the purple rain as the blossoms fall…
Many thanks to Tatsugoro Matsumoto, one of the first Japanese immigrants to Mexico, for recommending to President Álvaro Obregón that jacaranda trees from Brazil be planted in Mexico City.
Now, throughout Mexico, underneath the purple rain we walk. And, this time of year, I always smile, remember, and begin humming Prince’s Purple Rain and Jimi’s Purple Haze.
A little Irish in Mexico history
Posted in Celebrations, History, Holidays, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged David Rovic music video, history, Irish in Mexico, Mexican American War, Mexico, music, St. Brendan the Navigator, St. Patrick's Battalion, St. Patrick's Day on March 17, 2018| 2 Comments »
On this St. Patrick’s Day, you might want to check out this brief history lesson from PRI (Public Radio International), Mexico remembers the Irishmen who fought for Mexico against the US.
And, for more Irish in Mexico history, I’m re-posting my March 17, 2016 blog post, St. Brendan in Mexico?, below:
The Mexican-Irish connection may date back farther than most of us have considered. Séamus Ó Fógartaigh writes in the essay, Ireland and Mexico, “The first Irishman to set foot on Mexican soil may well have been St. Brendan the Navigator, who, according to legend, crossed the Atlantic Ocean in his ‘currach’ (traditional Irish rowing boat) in search of new converts to the Christian faith. An ancient manuscript found in Medieval European monasteries allegedly described his voyage to strange Western Lands, and is known as the Navigatio Sancti Brendani Abbatis. Some historians claim that Christopher Columbus found inspiration for his seafaring adventure in the pages of the Navigatio of St. Brendan the Abbot.” And, he notes, there is even speculation that Quetzalcóatl was actually a deified Irish monk.
As you raise your pint of Guinness on this St. Patrick’s Day, consider this and the other Mexico and Ireland connections, while you sing a rousing chorus of Saint Patrick Battalion.
The song celebrates the Batallón de San Patricio, the Irish-American soldiers who deserted and fought alongside the Mexican army against the United States during the Mexican American War, 1846-1848. And, don’t forget to watch One Man’s Hero, the 1999 feature film about the San Patricios, starring Tom Berenger.
Sláinte mhaith! ¡Salud! And, remember, don’t drink and drive!
Magic carpet ride
Posted in Buildings, Creativity, Culture, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged art, Magic Carpet Ride song, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Steppenwolf, street art, urban art, wall art on March 12, 2018| 6 Comments »
On Calle de Ignacio Allende at the corner of Tinoco y Palacios, a new mural is ready to take you on a magic carpet ride.
Well, you don’t know what we can find
Why don’t you come with me little girl
On a magic carpet ride
You don’t know what we can see
Why don’t you tell your dreams to me
Fantasy will set you free
Close your eyes girl
Look inside girl
Let the sound take you away
— Magic Carpet Ride, written by Normal Cook, Robert Manuel Clivilles, and David Bryon Cole; performed by Steppenwolf.
Hopefully, this mural won’t be slapped with “pintura no autorizada” signs like its predecessor.
Women in the murals
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Holidays, Museums, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged art, artists, Día de la Mujer, Día Internacional de la Mujer, Diego Rivera, International Women's Day, Mexico, Mexico City, murals, paintings, photographs, photos, Secretaría de Educación Pública, Secretariat of Public Education, women on March 8, 2018| 4 Comments »
I was recently in Mexico City, where I spent hours at the Secretaría de Educación Pública (Secretariat of Public Education) building marveling at the three floors of murals by Diego Rivera. And so, in honor of International Women’s Day, some of the women in the murals…
Happy International Women’s Day to the women of the world! May your strength, creativity, intelligence, and love prevail.
¡Felicidades Coco!
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged abuelas, Academy Awards 2018, Carnaval, Coco, film, grandmothers, Guillermo del Toro, Mexico, movies, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, San Martín Tilcajete, The Shape of Water on March 4, 2018| 2 Comments »
Congratulations to Coco — winner of the 2018 Academy Award for Original Song, “Remember Me” (“Recuérdame”), and winner for best Animated Feature Film. Most of all, felicidades to all the bisabuelas (great-grandmothers) and abuelitas (grandmothers) who inspired the character of Coco with their strength, pride, and love.
Carnaval 2018, San Martín Tilcajete, Oaxaca
And, bravo to Guillermo del Toro (Best Director) and The Shape of Water (Best Movie) — ¡Viva México!
Guys and gals of Prepa 6
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Education, Parks & Plazas, Travel & Tourism, tagged Cuaresma, Lent, Llano Park, Mexico, Oaxaca, Paseo de los Viernes de Cuaresma, Paseo Juárez el Llano, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, students, teenagers, Viernes del Llano on February 26, 2018| 2 Comments »
They came, they saw, they styled, and they carried flowers! This past Friday, it was the turn of Prepatoria No. 6 to continue the “only in Oaxaca tradition” of Viernes del Llano — aka, Paseo Juárez el Llano or Paseo de los Viernes de Cuaresma.
For the first five Friday mornings of Lent, young women in their second, fourth, and sixth semesters at the prepatorias (grades 10-12 in the USA) of the Universidad Autónoma Benito Juárez de Oaxaca (UABJO), circle the statue of Benito Juárez in Llano Park, collecting bouquets of flowers, in this 45-year old tradition that traces its origin back to the nineteenth century — some say, even further.
There seemed to be a record number of young women this week — at least 30 — being cheered on by their families and home room supporters and ably assisted by their male flower-carriers.
Yes, there are winners in various categories (I think, largest number of flowers collected, most photogenic, best social media, and one or two others) and an overall “Madrina del Viernes” (Godmother of Friday) is chosen. However, all seem to leave in great spirits — and blogger buddy Chris has even spotted a few down at the local salón de billar shooting a little pool later in the morning.
Carnaval among the wood carvers
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged bands, bodypaint, Carnaval, Carnival, Coco, costumes, Fat Tuesday, Mardi Gras, mascaras, masks, men dressed as women, Mexico, Muxes, Oaxaca, painted bodies, photographs, photos, San Martín Tilcajete, Shrove Tuesday on February 19, 2018| 14 Comments »
Día de Carnaval (aka, Fat Tuesday, Mardi Gras, Carnival), a day to let the good times roll before the sacrifices of the Lenten season, has come and gone. And, again, blogger buddy Chris and I headed out to the surreal celebration in San Martín Tilcajete. Driving into the village, one soon hears, rather than sees, that this isn’t a normal day in this wood carving village 17 miles south of the city — the streets are alive with the sound of cow bells. Roaming the dirt back roads and paved main street, los encabezados (guys covered in motor oil or paint) come running past — with cow bells tied around their waist — making mischief and startling the unaware.
Masks, all the better to hide one’s identity when making fun of the powers that be, are an international carnaval tradition. Thus, in this village, known for its fantastically painted wood carvings, wooden masks play a big role in the celebration — including several by our friend Jesus Sosa Calvo and his family at Matlacihua Arte.
This is a town where creativity reigns supreme and the costumes seem to get more whimsical and weirder every year.
Oh, and did I mention there is a wedding? Well, actually a parody of a traditional village wedding. There is much pomp and circumstance, hilarity, and music — not to mention, breakfast and lunch for wedding guests — as participants move from the house of the mayor, to the home of the bride, and to City Hall for the civil ceremony. Dancing in the plaza follows and then, at some predetermined time, there is a procession through the streets before arriving at another house where the happy “couple” kneel before “priest” for the religious ceremony.
And, you might want to take a second look at those beautiful wedding guests with the smoldering eyes and modeling the gorgeous gowns. They are not what they seem — and that includes the bride.
The Spanish brought the Carnaval tradition to Mexico because, like many other seasonal celebrations, it conveniently coincided with indigenous festivals celebrating the “lost days” of the Mesoamerican calendar, “when faces were covered to repel or confuse evil.” Evidently it caught on, “because it was one time when normal rules could be broken…” And, San Martín Tilcajete certainly knows how!!!
By the way, many from the creative team of the movie Coco came to enjoy the festivities and renew acquaintances in this town that provided the inspiration for the alebrijes in the film. “De Oaxaca tomamos los alebrijes, la celebración del Día de los Muertos, toda esa energía y colores están en los paisajes de la película. Quise ser lo más fiel en esta investigación y plasmarlo en la cinta…” (“From Oaxaca we take the alebrijes, the celebration of the Day of the Dead, all the energy and colors are in the landscapes of the film…”) (NVI Noticias, 2/14/2018)
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