It takes 30+ men, doing some heavy lifting, to carry San Salvador, his burro, and Palm Sunday bounty the kilometer between San Antonino Castillo Velasco’s cemetery and village church.
The strength of their devotion.
Archive for the ‘Celebrations’ Category
Trip to Palm Sunday bountiful
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged animals, Christianity, Domingo de Palmas, Domingo de Ramos, fruit, herbs, Holy Week, Jesus, livestock, Mexico, Oaxaca, Palm Sunday, photos, popular travel destinations, religious celebrations, San Antonino Castillo Velasco, San Salvador, San Salvador image, Semana Santa on April 15, 2019| 15 Comments »
Yesterday was another special Domingo de Ramos (Palm Sunday) in San Antonino Castillo Velasco. This is a Zapotec village famous for the cultivation of flowers and exquisitely embroidered blouses and dresses, inspired by said flowers. Returning year-after-year, I never cease to be uplifted by the warmth of the people and the bounty they bring to the image of San Salvador sitting atop his little burro outside the panteón. The best of their fruits, vegetables, herbs, livestock, clothing, flowers, and much more are gratefully received by a committee, priced, and later-in-the-day, sold to raise money for a designated project.
A little after noon, San Salvador (his burro now filled to the brim), offerings, and the faithful were blessed by the priest. Fireworks exploded, rhythmic sounds of the traditional teponaxtles (drums) and chirimía (small oboe) sounded, and led by a trail of bougainvillea bracts and the smoke of copal, the litter of San Salvador atop the burro and carried by 30+ men, set off on a journey to the atrium of the church. They were followed by villagers and visitors carrying the remainder of the goods collected — a ritual reenactment of the Biblical story of Jesus entering Jerusalem to celebrate the Passover.
The procession successfully navigated overhead wires above and heeded warnings of “topes” (speed bumps) below. A kilometer down this perilous route, San Salvador and the faithful, young and old, approached the atrium of the church, San Salvador was set on the stage where an outdoor mass was to be said, and on the opposite side, the hand-and-head-carried offerings were to be sold. I cannot begin to express how warm and welcoming the people of San Antonino Castillo Velasco were. Wearing a blusa from San Antonino, that I purchased several years ago, I was smiled upon and, as I was taking photos, officials and other villagers ushered me to the front. Again, I ask, how many magical moments can one person have?
Friday of Sorrows
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged animal figurines, Chia Pets, cucharilla, Día de la virgen de Dolores, flowers, Holy Week, lilies, Mexico, Oaxaca, Our Lady of Sorrows, photos, Semana Santa, virgen de dolores, Virgin of Sorrows on April 12, 2019| 2 Comments »
Today, the sixth Friday of Lent, Oaxaca honors la Virgen de Dolores (Our Lady of Sorrows). Altars dedicated to her can be found in churches, businesses, and homes. While the altars vary in their presentation, there are several key features (besides an image of the Virgin and candles) that will be found.
Altar to la Virgen de Dolores at Templo del Carmen Alto
Wreaths of cucharilla (aka, Dasylirion, Sotol, desert spoon) — grown in Villa de Etla and the Mixtec region of Oaxaca — represent the crown of thorns of Jesus.
Salvia Hispanica (aka, chia) sprouting from terracotta clay animals decorate altars — seeds which had been blessed on February 2, Día de la Candelaria (Candlemas). According to an article in MexConnect, “Growing greens remind the viewer of the resurrection and renewal of life.” Yes, these are the original Chia Pets!
Ceramic deer covered in chia sprouts on the altar at Templo del Carmen Alto
Bowls of water (often tinted) representing the “sweet tears of Mary” are set among violet colored drapes and flowers — violet being the color associated with Lent.
Altar to la Virgen de Dolores at Huizache, a cooperative store selling Oaxacan crafts and clothing
Lilies, representing purity and chamomile, representing humility and the beauty of body and soul, can be found on altars.
Lilies and chamomile on the altar at Templo del Carmen Alto
According to this article (in Spanish), altars to Our Lady of Sorrows started appearing in Oaxaca in the sixteenth century and her veneration on the sixth Friday of Lent grew from there.
La Virgen de Dolores (Our Lady of Sorrows) at Templo del Carmen Alto
Tonight at Templo del Carmen Alto, there will be a reading of the “Vía Dolorosa” (Way of Sorrows), a concert of sacred music by the Coro de la Ciudad (City Chorus), and a tasting of regional Lenten food. Such is the beginning of Semana Santa (Holy Week) in Oaxaca!
Remains of the day
Posted in Buildings, Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged abandoned buildings, Black and white photography, Día de la Samaritana, decorations, Mexico, Oaxaca, paper flowers, photos, popular travel destinations on April 2, 2019| Leave a Comment »
Even leftover decorations from a Día de la Samaritana agua station in front of an abandoned building are beautiful in their own way.
Seen on García Vigil at the corner of Jesús Carranza.
Celebrating the Good Samaritan
Posted in Beverages, Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Food, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged agua fresca, bougainvillea, bugambilia, Día de la Samaritana, Good Samaritan day, Lent, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations on March 30, 2019| 14 Comments »
If you are in Oaxaca and it’s the fourth Friday of Lent, it must be Día de la Samaritana, an “only in Oaxaca” celebration. This Day of the Good Samaritan was inspired by the Gospel of John story in the New Testament where a tired and thirsty Jesus, on his way to Galilee, asks a Samaritan woman at Jacob’s Well in Sychar for some water.
Decorating a well outside the Cathedral
Sign proclaiming the day, seen on the Alcalá
His request was highly unusual because, according to the Old Testament, “Jews regarded the Samaritans as foreigners and their attitude was often hostile.” The woman complied with his request and the rest is history.
Scene at the well outside Templo de San José
Live actors waiting to reenact the scene
Celebrating the Good Samaritan in Oaxaca began in the atriums of churches at the end of the 19th century and is a popular and much-loved tradition. Thus I joined thousands of Oaxaqueños and visitors, clutching cups, and wandering from one decorated agua station to another sampling their offerings.
Samaritana station serving nieve at the Municipal Palace
One of scores of agua stations on the Alcalá
People of all ages, from small children to grandparents, lined up at bougainvillea and palm decorated booths in front of churches, restaurants, businesses, schools, and even the city’s municipal office building for the traditional Día de la Samaritana free aguas.
Hand painted ollas in front of Templo de Sangre de Cristo
Hand painted jicara gourds waiting to be filled with tejate
These “water stations” are often decorated in a violet shade of purple, the color of Lent, symbolizing penance and royalty. And, the ollas (pots) holding the aguas seem to get more decorative every year.
Agua stations along the Alcalá
Watermelon and mint agua station on García Vigil
We are not talking plain water, these are divinely flavored aguas frescas made with fresh fruits, herbs, flowers, and more — jamaica (hibiscus), horchata, chilacayote (squash), tamarindo, sandia (watermelon), tejate, and nieve (sorbet). Even taxi drivers played the role of Good Samaritans.
Nieve station in doorway of lingerie store on Independencia
Taxi drivers host agua station on the Alameda
In previous years, the aftermath hath wrought mountains of garbage — cans overflowing with plastic and styrofoam. However, this year, in the name of the environment, an appeal was made for people to bring their own cups. And, I think a majority complied!
On the Alcalá above Santo Domingo
An olla with Agua de chilacayote (type of squash)
And me? After almost two hours, three aguas (watermelon with mint, cucumber with mint, and chilacayote), a nieve of leche quemada and tuna, and being surrounded by smiling people enjoying this celebration of generosity, I returned home with my heart full of love and gratitude for the traditions of Oaxaca.
Here’s to the artisans
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, People, Textiles, Travel & Tourism, tagged artisans, backstrap loom, baskets, bodypaint, canastas, carding wool, Día del Artesano, light fixtures, looms, mandiles, Mexico, murals, Nativity scene, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, street art, wall art on March 20, 2019| 8 Comments »
Yesterday, Mexico celebrated el Día del Artesano (Day of the Artisan). Alas, I’m a day late in recognizing the men and women whose artistry in carrying on traditions and renewing and enriching them with their own creative spirit contributes to Oaxaca’s vibrant cultural life and economy. However, the entire month of March has been designated “month of the artisan,” so here are several of the artesanas and artesanos who I have had the honor and joy of knowing and visiting over the past year.
Emilia Gonzalez, wool spinning and dying in Teotitlán del Valle
Juan Manuel García Esperanza, silver filigree, Ciudad de Oaxaca
Carrizo basket maker from San Juan Guelavía
Barro rojo (red clay) potters from San Marcos Tlapazola
Mural painters in San Martín Tilcajete
Weaver from Santo Tomás Jalieza
Eligio Zárate, potter, Santa María Atzompa
Jesús Sosa Calvo, wood carver and painter, San Martín Tilcaje
Seamstress, embroiderer, crocheter, Sra. Gutiérrez from Teotitlán del Valle
Don Luís, weaver, Ciudad de Oaxaca
A very special thank you to Don Luís, whose weaving studio shares a wall with my apartment and I have the pleasure of seeing and hearing most every day. The rhythmic sounds of his loom are one of the songs on the soundtrack of my Oaxaca life.
Carnaval in B&W
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Black and white photography, bodypaint, Carnaval, Carnival, Fat Tuesday, Jacobo Ángeles, Mardi Gras, mascaras, masks, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, San Martín Tilcajete on March 6, 2019| 2 Comments »
Scenes from the streets of San Martín Tilcajete during yesterday’s Carnaval craziness.
“Color is descriptive. Black and white is interpretive.” – Eliott Erwitt
Carnaval is coming
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Barrio de San Pablo Zaachila, Carnaval, Carnival, costumes, Fat Tuesday, Mardi Gras, mascaras, masks, men dressed as women, Mexico, Muestra de Carnavales de los Valles Centrales, Oaxaca, painted bodies, parade, photos, San Jacinto Chilateca, San Martín Tilcajete, Santa Ana Zegache, Santa María Coyotepec, Shrove Tuesday on March 3, 2019| 2 Comments »
Given that Oaxaca loves parades and processions (the numbers of Muertos comparsas and Guelaguetza desfiles seem to grow every year), yesterday the 1st Muestra de Carnavales de los Valles Centrales took over the Macedonio Alcalá walking street with costumes, devils, painted bodies, cowbells, bands, masked men, mezcal, and more.
Santa Ana Zegache
Santa Ana Zegache
In an effort to promote tourism in the villages, residents and visitors were treated to sampling the variety of Carnaval traditions from five of the Valley of Oaxaca’s communities.
San Jacinto Chilteca
San Jacinto Chilteca
The Spanish brought the tradition of Carnaval to Mexico. However, like many other seasonal celebrations, it conveniently coincided with indigenous festivals celebrating the “lost days” of the Mesoamerican calendar, “when faces were covered to repel or confuse evil.”
Santa María Coyotepec
Santa María Coyotepec
Apparently, it caught on “because it was one time when normal rules could be broken especially with the use of masks to hide identities from the authorities.”
Barrio de San Pablo Zaachila
Barrio de San Pablo Zaachila
This Día de Carnaval (aka, Fat Tuesday, Mardi Gras, Shrove Tuesday, Carnival), like previous years, we will be heading out to San Martín Tilcajete.
San Martín Tilcajete
San Martín Tilcajete
However, now I’m thinking we might want to add another stop (or four?) to our itinerary. We shall see…
Celebrating indigenous languages
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Education, Language, Travel & Tourism, tagged costumes, Día Internacional de la Lengua Materna, ethnolinguistic groups, indigenous peoples, International Mother Language Day, language, lengua materna, Mexico, Mother Tongue, native tongues, Oaxaca, photos, traje, UNESCO, United Nations on February 19, 2019| 7 Comments »
2019 has been proclaimed the International Year of Indigenous Languages by the United Nations. The issue of “lenguas maternas” (mother tongues) has a particular resonance in Oaxaca, as the state is home to 16 distinct ethnolinguistic groups: Amuzgos, Chatino, Chinanteco, Chocho, Chontal, Cuicateco, Huave, Ixcateco, Mazateco, Mixe, Mixteco, Náhuatl, Popoloca, Triqui, Zapoteco, and Zoque.
As anyone who has visited the villages of Oaxaca has discovered, sometimes the abuelos and abuelas only speak their mother tongue, not Spanish. To honor and celebrate them, their ancestors, and their children and grandchildren, today on the zócalo, Oaxaca celebrated those languages with songs, poetry, and recitations.
However, like indigenous languages throughout the world, Mexico’s indigenous languages are in danger of disappearing. The importance of passing these languages and the world views they express to the younger generations cannot be underestimated.
Thus here in Oaxaca, on February 21, 2019, Mother Language Day, you can walk “The roads of the feathered serpent: revaluing one of the variants of the Zapotec Valley of Oaxaca” and “Meet the Zapotec of Teotitlán through storytelling and other activities!” at the Biblioteca Infantil (Children’s Library).
Love and Friendship
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged balloons, Día del Amor y la Amistad, hearts, Mexico, papel picado, photos, Valentine's Day on February 13, 2019| Leave a Comment »
The signs of Valentine’s Day are everywhere…
Ready for the fiesta on the patio of my apartment complex.
Tin hearts on display at the Museo Estatal de Arte Popular de Oaxaca (MEAPO) shop in San San Bartolo Coyotepec.
While it may be a holiday imported from Europe, Mexico embraces the celebration.
Dining room ceiling of Los Huamuches, between Santo Tomás Jalieza and San Martín Tilcajete.
Balloons on the zócalo in Oaxaca de Juárez.
Wishing you ¡Feliz Día del Amor y la Amistad!
Bougainvillea on a cross at the palenque of Faustino García Vásquez, San Baltazar Chichicápam.
Ready for the fiesta on the patio of my apartment complex.
Happy Day of Love and Friendship to all!
Also a procession…
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged candles, Feria del Carrizo, festivals, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, procession, San Juan Guelavia, velas on January 30, 2019| Leave a Comment »
On Sunday in San Juan Guelavía for the Feria del Carrizo in the municipal plaza, the sounds of a procession drew me next door to the church.
A procession! I’m not sure if the occasion had anything to to with patron saint, San Juan Bautista. However, what I do know is that I love being surprised and delighted by Oaxaca — a place I am proud to now call home.
Dressed and waiting…
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged bands, Mexico, monos, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, weddings on January 26, 2019| 6 Comments »
If it’s Saturday, it must be wedding day in Oaxaca.
They are scheduled one right after another at several of the churches, especially those on Macedonio Alcalá (the walking street).
As a result, there is a lot of waiting by the wedding parties, bands, and monos.
All dressed up with someplace to go!
Looking back at 2018
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Año Nuevo, aprons, Cathedral, ceramic pottery, cooking school, El Sabor Zapoteco, ENBIA, Feria del Barro Rojo, full moon, Fundación En Via, girls, jewelry, José Jorge García García, Las Sanjuaneras, mandiles, Mexico, mezcal, microfinance tours, murals, New Year's Eve, Oaxaca, Palenque, photos, pistachio tree, protests, Rancho 314, Reyna Mendoza Ruiz, San Baltazar Chichicapam, San Juan Colorado, San Marcos Tlapazola, San Miguel del Valle, Señor del Rayo, textiles, Tlacolula de Matamoros, Tlacolulokos, urban farms, Waje, weavers, zócalo on December 30, 2018| 10 Comments »
Looking back and appreciating life in Oaxaca, 2018.
January – View through the terrace pistachio tree of full Wolf Moon.
February – Guest helping to harvest Waje dinner at Rancho 314 urban farm in Santa Cruz Xoxocotlán.
March – Reyna Mendoza Ruiz demonstrating metate technique at El Sabor Zapoteco cooking class in Teotitlán del Valle.
April – Pit for cooking agave piñas to make mezcal at the palenque of Faustino Garcia in San Baltazar Chichicapa(m).
May – Tlacolulokos mural in Tlacolula de Matamoros.
June – Summer afternoon on the Zócalo in Oaxaca city.
July – Feria del Barro Rojo in San Marcos Tlapazola.
August – Fundación En Via microfinance tour to San Miguel del Valle.
September – Protest by students from the Escuela Normal Bilingüe e Intercultural de Oaxaca.
October – Celebrating el Señor del Rayo at the Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción.
November – At the home/workshop of filigree maestro, José Jorge García García.
December – Pop-up sale in Oaxaca city by the Las Sanjuaneras weavers from San Juan Colorado.
Feliz año nuevo y muchisimas gracias to all my wonderful blog readers from near and far! Thank you for reading, for commenting, for sharing, for the opportunity to meet some of you, and for inspiring me to continue. Onward to 2019!!!
Christmas Eve in el norte
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged 'Twas the Night Before Christmas, Christmas decorations, Christmas ornaments, Christmas traditions, Eduardo Guerrero, Ernie Villarreal, Mexico, Oaxaca, Pancho Claus, photos, poem, popular travel destinations on December 24, 2018| 9 Comments »
‘Tis Christmas Eve and I’m in el norte. A light snow is falling and all are excited.
Ornaments from Oaxaca hang alongside those passed down through four generations — and the newly collected continue the one-new-ornament-a-year tradition.
My grandson is keeping a close eye on Santa’s progress around the globe. While awaiting the arrival of our late night visitor, it is time for Ernie Villarreal’s version of Pancho Claus by Chicano music legend, Eduardo “Lalo” Guerrero.
Pancho Claus
‘Twas the night before Christmas and all through la casa
Not a creature was stirring, Caramba! ¿Que pasa?
Los ninos were all tucked away in their camas,
Some in vestidos and some in pajamas.
While Mama worked late in her little cocina,
El viejo was down at the corner cantina.
The stockings were hanging con mucho cuidado,
In hopes that St. Nicholas would feel obligado
To bring all the children, both buenos y malos,
A Nice batch of dulces and other regalos.
Outside in the yard, there arouse such a grito,
That I jumped to my feet, like a frightened cabrito.
I went to the window and looked out afuera,
And who in the world, do you think que era?
Saint Nick in a sleigh and a big red sombrero
Came dashing along like a crazy bombero!
And pulling his sleigh instead of venados,
Were eight little burros approaching volados.
I watched as they came, and this little hombre
Was shouting and whistling and calling by nombre.
¡Ay, Pancho! ¡Ay, Pepe! ¡Ay, Cuca! ¡Ay, Beto!
¡Ay, Chato!
¡¡Ay, Chopo! ¡Maruca and ¡Nieto!
Then standing erect with his hand on his pecho
He flew to the top of our very own techo.
With his round little belly like a bowl of jalea,
He struggled to squeeze down our old chimenea.
Then huffing and puffing, at last in our sala,
With soot smeared all over his red suit de gala.
He filled the stockings with lovely regalos,
For none of the children had been very malos.
Then chuckling aloud and seeming contento,
He turned like a flash and was gone like the viento.
And I heard him exclaim and this is VERDAD,
Merry Christmas to all, And to All ¡Feliz Navidad!
The radishes are coming
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged dried corn husks, dried flowers, flor inmortal, Mexico, Night of the Radishes, Noche de Rabanos, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, Totomoxtle on December 22, 2018| 4 Comments »
It’s December 22 and in Oaxaca that means it’s Noche de Rábanos eve. Despite the name, it’s not just about radishes. Tomorrow morning, on tables lining the Zócalo, radishes will be carved and arranged, totomoxtle (corn husk) figures will be staged, and flor inmortal (dried flowers) scenes will be set. Beginning in the early afternoon and lasting late into the night, residents and visitors will parade along elevated walkways to view the detailed and fantastical creations on display in this only-in-Oaxaca holiday event.
These aren’t your grandparents radishes; they are a variety that is specially cultivated for their starring role — sometimes growing to 20 inches long and weighing in at 7 pounds. Alas, I’m in el norte spending the holidays with my family. So, I will just have to look back through previous Noche de Rábanos blog posts to get into the radishy spirit.
FYI: Blogger buddy Chris will be there to record this year’s action, so be sure to check out Oaxaca- The Year After in the next couple of days.
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