It takes 30+ men, doing some heavy lifting, to carry San Salvador, his burro, and Palm Sunday bounty the kilometer between San Antonino Castillo Velasco’s cemetery and village church.
The strength of their devotion.
Posts Tagged ‘Christianity’
Trip to Palm Sunday bountiful
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged animals, Christianity, Domingo de Palmas, Domingo de Ramos, fruit, herbs, Holy Week, Jesus, livestock, Mexico, Oaxaca, Palm Sunday, photos, popular travel destinations, religious celebrations, San Antonino Castillo Velasco, San Salvador, San Salvador image, Semana Santa on April 15, 2019| 15 Comments »
Yesterday was another special Domingo de Ramos (Palm Sunday) in San Antonino Castillo Velasco. This is a Zapotec village famous for the cultivation of flowers and exquisitely embroidered blouses and dresses, inspired by said flowers. Returning year-after-year, I never cease to be uplifted by the warmth of the people and the bounty they bring to the image of San Salvador sitting atop his little burro outside the panteón. The best of their fruits, vegetables, herbs, livestock, clothing, flowers, and much more are gratefully received by a committee, priced, and later-in-the-day, sold to raise money for a designated project.
A little after noon, San Salvador (his burro now filled to the brim), offerings, and the faithful were blessed by the priest. Fireworks exploded, rhythmic sounds of the traditional teponaxtles (drums) and chirimía (small oboe) sounded, and led by a trail of bougainvillea bracts and the smoke of copal, the litter of San Salvador atop the burro and carried by 30+ men, set off on a journey to the atrium of the church. They were followed by villagers and visitors carrying the remainder of the goods collected — a ritual reenactment of the Biblical story of Jesus entering Jerusalem to celebrate the Passover.
The procession successfully navigated overhead wires above and heeded warnings of “topes” (speed bumps) below. A kilometer down this perilous route, San Salvador and the faithful, young and old, approached the atrium of the church, San Salvador was set on the stage where an outdoor mass was to be said, and on the opposite side, the hand-and-head-carried offerings were to be sold. I cannot begin to express how warm and welcoming the people of San Antonino Castillo Velasco were. Wearing a blusa from San Antonino, that I purchased several years ago, I was smiled upon and, as I was taking photos, officials and other villagers ushered me to the front. Again, I ask, how many magical moments can one person have?
Jesús among the jacaranda
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Food, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged bread, Christianity, Domingo de Ramos, fruit, herbs, Holy Week, jacaranda, Jesus, Mexico, Oaxaca, Palm Sunday, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, San Antonino Castillo Velasco, San Salvador image, Semana Santa, vegetables on April 9, 2017| 2 Comments »
Una muestra (a sample) from another sublime Domingo de Ramos (Palm Sunday) in San Antonino Castillo Velasco.
Under the lavender canopy of jacaranda, Jesús (wearing his red cape) and his burro enter the church courtyard laden with the rich bounty of the village.
More to come…
Jesús y María
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Basilica de la Soledad, Christianity, Easter, Good Friday, Holy Week, Jesus, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, portraits, Semana Santa, Viernes Santo, Virgen de La Soledad, Virgin Mary on March 30, 2016| Leave a Comment »
Jesus and Mary up close and in color from their Viernes Santo (Good Friday) morning meeting in front of Oaxaca’s Cathedral.
I know, some photos just beg for a caption. Once all the Marys and Jesuses had gathered, prayers had been recited, and rituals performed, they all processed back to their home churches to rest up for the evening’s Procession of Silence.
… including Soledad. Since she was going my way, I walked her home.
And, yes, she made it back to the Basilica safe and sound.
Good Friday faces in B&W
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Black and white photography, boys, Christianity, Easter, faces, girls, Good Friday, Holy Week, Jesus, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, portraits, Semana Santa, Viernes Santo, Virgin Mary on March 26, 2016| 2 Comments »
A few Viernes Santo (Good Friday) favorites from the morning’s encounter between Jesús and María in front of the Cathedral.
Faces that have become familiar.
Soledad’s morning stroll
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Christianity, Easter, Good Friday, Holy Mother, Holy Week, Mexico, Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, procession, Semana Santa, Viernes Santo, Virgin of Solitude on April 3, 2015| 2 Comments »
Good Friday morning, the streets of Oaxaca are quiet, and solitude seems to be the order of the day. The only sounds that could be heard coming from the streets in my ‘hood were prayers being sung as Our Lady of Solitude left her eponymous home at the Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad.
As you can see, alone, Oaxaca’s patron saint was not; acolytes carried and accompanied her on her morning stroll.
A crystal clear, brilliant blue sky provided a backdrop for her sojourn.
Slowly she made her way down Independencia en-route to the Cathedral.
She was one of the first to arrive at this ritual Viernes Santo gathering.
The guys took over and maneuvered her into position at the side of the Cathedral, as the faithful awaited.
There, she would soon be joined by other images of the Santísima Virgen and Jesús from many of the numerous churches in the Historic District.
After at least two hours of prayers and songs and more prayers, Soledad returned to the Basilica, perhaps to rest (like me) before again taking to the streets for this evening’s Procession of Silence.
Good Friday morning to you
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Christianity, Easter, Estaciones de la Cruz, Good Friday, Holy Mother, Holy Week, Jesus, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Semana Santa, Via Cruces, Viernes Santo on April 18, 2014| 5 Comments »
And so, Viernes Santo began…
Processions from churches in the Historic District began at 7:00 AM.
They converged at the Alameda, on the south side of the Cathedral,
where “our Lord meets his most Holy Mother going towards Calvary.”
The faithful, now as one, then proceeded east on Independencia…
along with the images of Mary and Jesus…
stopping along the way at Stations of the Cross.
I left at 9:30 AM — they were still going. Early this evening, all will again gather for the Procession of Silence. No rest for the faithful or weary bloggers!
In darkness and silence
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Christianity, Good Friday, Holy Week. Semana Santa, Mexico, Oaxaca, photo, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Procesión del Silencio, Procession of Silence, religion, ritual procession, Viernes Santo on April 3, 2013| 8 Comments »
The Semana Santa poster said the Viernes Santo (Good Friday) Procesión del Silencio was to begin at 6 PM in front of Preciosa Sangre de Cristo. Knowing the drill, I arrived at 4:45 to take photos as contingents and participants arrived — but nobody was there. The old antiwar slogan, “What If They Gave a War and Nobody Came” came to mind.
Of course it was going to happen, it’s just that time isn’t what it seems here. Word on the scene had it that, despite the poster info, it wasn’t to begin until 6:30 PM. No worries! Well, except that Mexico doesn’t begin Daylight Saving Time until next weekend, the light began rapidly fading, and 6:30 PM became 7 PM. Por favor, let Oaxaca’s 27th annual Parade of Silence begin!
Señor de Esquipulas during the Procession of Silence, Good Friday 2013
And it eventually did — up Macedonio Alcalá, left at the Cruz de Piedra, left again on García Vigil to Independencia, another left, and back up the Alcalá. And so, in darkness and silence the procession returned to the church where it all began. Contingents could be heard late into the night parading through the streets of the city, as they returned the Jesuses and Marías to their respective home churches.
Lots more photos can be seen over at Oaxaca-The Year After.
Belief and believers
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Holidays, Religion, tagged Bible, Christianity, culture, Good Friday, Jesus, Mexico, Oaxaca, photo, photographs, Preciosa Sangre de Cristo, Procesión del Silencio, Procession of Silence, religion, ritual procession, Viernes Santo, Virgin Mary on April 10, 2012| Leave a Comment »
The back of the official 26th anniversary t-shirt for the Good Friday, Procesión del Silencio, doesn’t come close to telling the tale.
Images of belief add texture to the ritual procession of mourners grieving the crucifixion and death of Jesus, as related in the New Testament of the Christian Bible.
But it’s the eyes of believers…
that gives the narrative a silent voice.
And, grieving mothers everywhere understand.
No matter where one lands on the belief continuum, it’s hard not to be moved.
(ps) For lots more terrific photos, take a look at Chris’s posting, The Procession of Silence.
Waiting in the wings…
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Holidays, tagged Christianity, culture, Good Friday, Mexico, Oaxaca, photo, photographs, Preciosa Sangre de Cristo, Procesión del Silencio, Procession of Silence, religion, Viernes Santo on April 7, 2012| 6 Comments »
In front of Preciosa Sangre de Cristo Templo on Viernes Santo (Good Friday), waiting for the Procesión del Silencio (Procession of Silence) to set off up the Álcala, down Garcia Vigil, and back up the Álcala to Sangre de Cristo.
Bread of eternal life
Posted in Buildings, Celebrations, Churches, Holidays, tagged Carmen Abajo, Carmen Alto, Cathedral, Christianity, full moon, Holy Week, Jueves Santo, La catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, Maundy Thursday, Mexico, Oaxaca, pan bendito, photo, photographs, Preciosa Sangre de Cristo Templo, religion, Santo Domingo, Semana Santa, Templo de la Compañía de Jesus, Templo de San Felipe Neri, Templo de San José on April 6, 2012| 1 Comment »
Yesterday, under a full moon…
and clutching our “pan bendito” (blessed bread), we began our pilgrimage. Jueves Santo (Holy/Maundy Thursday) tradition calls for visiting 7 churches (la visita de las siete casas) in the city with one’s pan bendito, which must be kept to offer to guests, should any grace our doorstep. This all relates back to Jesus’s Last Supper, which this date commemorates.
First stop was the nearby Templo de San José, where palm fronds were also distributed and believers used them to brush up and down the statue of Jesus. Hands also ran down his legs and then were used to touch one’s face.
After emerging from the side door of the jam-packed church, we set off for Templo de San Felipe Neri (whose picturesque dome can be seen (left of center) on my blog banner-head).
Next stop was Carmen Abajo…
followed by the far right side chapel of the La Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción. A plaque at the entrance of the chapel read, “El maestro esta aqui y te llama” (The teacher is here and calls you) and the multitude seemed to be heeding the call.
We then strolled across the zócalo to the Jesuit, Templo de la Compañía de Jesus.
We changed direction and headed north up the Álcala. Big mistake! A mosh pit (Chris, this WAS a mosh pit) surrounding a Tuna band that was playing in the middle of the street, causing gridlock and bringing us to an abrupt stop. Eventually, following our blocker (my son, the lineman would be proud), we eventually found light and continued up to Preciosa Sangre de Cristo Templo, where we had earlier spent 1-1/2 hours (and it was still going on when we left!) at a mass where the priest reenacted Jesus washing the feet of his disciples at the Last Supper.
Strolling across the Álcala to Santo Domingo was much less challenging. The aisle to Santo Domingo’s main altar was blocked and we were routed to a side chapel. Hurray, we did it — this made seven churches visited!
However, though bleary-eyed (as evidenced by the photo below), we opted for just one more, Carmen Alto.
Home beckoned… and sleep came easily under the watch of the moon, now appropriately encircled by a halo.
San Antonino magic
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Holidays, tagged Christianity, culture, Domingo de Palmas, Holy Week, Mexico, offerings, palm crosses, Palm Sunday, photo, photographs, religion, San Antonino Castillo Velasco, Semana Santa on April 2, 2012| 7 Comments »
Yesterday, I spent another magical day with friends in San Antonino Castillo Velasco (about 23 miles/1 hour from the the city). It was Domingo de Palmas (Palm Sunday) and San Antonino celebrates in its own unique, warm, and welcoming way.
Townspeople gather in the cemetery to decorate the “Señor del Burrito” with fruit, vegetables, flowers, and everything they sell or grow during the year. In addition, livestock (goats, chickens, pigs, etc.), more foodstuffs, flowers, etc. are gathered and priced. The pastor of the parish church arrives to bless the “Lord of the Little Burro” and offerings. Palm crosses are distributed, all are invited to help carry the offerings to the church, 10-12 men hoist the burro (now laden up to his neck and weighing who knows what!), and a procession to the church commences, lead by a fast-tempo drum beat and punctuated by shouts warning the men carrying “Señor del Burrito” of upcoming topes (speed bumps) and telephone wires, which must be navigated.
At the church, “Señor del Burrito” has an honored place in the courtyard and the offerings are gathered and arranged. Many then attend an hour-long mass inside the church, while others partake in yummy amarillo and pork empanadas, taste mezcal, and browse the wares of the artisan booths. By the way, at least two of the “maestros” from the new, previously mentioned, book, Grandes Maestros del Arte Popular de Oaxaca were present: Familia García Mendoza (ceramics) and Antonina Cornelio, who makes the exquisitely embroidered clothing typical of San Antonino Castillo Velasco (and seen in one or two of the photos above). Following the mass, the offerings are sold, with the proceeds going to an orphanage in the village.
Muchisimas gracias to the people of San Antonino Castillo Velasco for being so gracious and allowing us to share this special day with them.
Want to translate this blog?
Where is Oaxaca?
Weather in Oaxaca?
What is the Exchange Rate?
-
Categories
-
Want to read recent posts?
- From an artisan’s hands
- Water, water everywhere…
- Friday morning in the park
- The women devils of San Martín Tilcajete
- The devils prepare
- Faces of Carnaval 2023
- Day for lovers and friends
- Saturday is wedding day in Oaxaca
- Strolling along Xicoténcatl
- Getting reacquainted
- Ready for color
- Nothing but blue skies
- Goodbye 2022 / Hello 2023
- Christmas Eve Pancho Claus wishes
- Oaxaca’s queen
- Images of Guadalupe
- Día de la Virgen de Juquila
- Shadows on blue wall
- Giving thanks for musicians
- Still life in the panteón
Archives
What tags are most used?
art artists Barrio de Jalatlaco Basilica de la Soledad Black and white photography cactus California Carnaval Carnival Casita Colibrí celebrations cemetery Christmas convite coronavirus fallout costumes COVID-19 fallout dance dancers Danza de la Pluma danzantes Day of the Dead Día de los Muertos Día de Muertos Easter El Picacho festivals Fiesta de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo flowers food food festival garden Good Friday graffiti Guelaguetza Holy Week markets mascaras masks mercados Mexican Independence Day Mexico Mexico City murals music Oaxaca panteón parade parades photo photographs photos plants Plaza de la Danza popular travel destinations protests restaurants San Antonino Castillo Velasco San Martín Tilcajete Semana Santa skeletons stencil art street art students Teotitlán del Valle textiles Tlacolula de Matamoros traje travel trees urban art video Viernes Santo Virgen de Guadalupe wall artWant to email me?
-
This work by spixl is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-No Derivative Works 3.0 United States License.
Mexican Peso Converter
View From Casita Colibrí 
