Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Music, Neighborhoods, Travel & Tourism, tagged bands, Barrio de Jalatlaco, Day of the Musicians, Día de Santa Cecilia, marching bands, Mexico, music, musicians, Oaxaca, parades, photos, popular travel destinations, processions, Saint Cecilia, Teotitlán del Valle, video on November 22, 2022| Leave a Comment »
Why I love Oaxaca, reason number 2,022 — music is heard everywhere and seemingly all the time. November 22 is Día de Santa Cecilia who, among other things, is the patron saint of musicians.
And, since this post honors musicians, how about a little music…
A big muchisimas gracias to musicians all over the world who provide the soundtrack of our lives.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged bands, Mexico, monos, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, weddings on January 26, 2019| 6 Comments »
If it’s Saturday, it must be wedding day in Oaxaca.
They are scheduled one right after another at several of the churches, especially those on Macedonio Alcalá (the walking street).
As a result, there is a lot of waiting by the wedding parties, bands, and monos.
All dressed up with someplace to go!
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged bands, bodypaint, Carnaval, Carnival, Coco, costumes, Fat Tuesday, Mardi Gras, mascaras, masks, men dressed as women, Mexico, Muxes, Oaxaca, painted bodies, photographs, photos, San Martín Tilcajete, Shrove Tuesday on February 19, 2018| 14 Comments »
Día de Carnaval (aka, Fat Tuesday, Mardi Gras, Carnival), a day to let the good times roll before the sacrifices of the Lenten season, has come and gone. And, again, blogger buddy Chris and I headed out to the surreal celebration in San Martín Tilcajete. Driving into the village, one soon hears, rather than sees, that this isn’t a normal day in this wood carving village 17 miles south of the city — the streets are alive with the sound of cow bells. Roaming the dirt back roads and paved main street, los encabezados (guys covered in motor oil or paint) come running past — with cow bells tied around their waist — making mischief and startling the unaware.
Masks, all the better to hide one’s identity when making fun of the powers that be, are an international carnaval tradition. Thus, in this village, known for its fantastically painted wood carvings, wooden masks play a big role in the celebration — including several by our friend Jesus Sosa Calvo and his family at Matlacihua Arte.
This is a town where creativity reigns supreme and the costumes seem to get more whimsical and weirder every year.
Oh, and did I mention there is a wedding? Well, actually a parody of a traditional village wedding. There is much pomp and circumstance, hilarity, and music — not to mention, breakfast and lunch for wedding guests — as participants move from the house of the mayor, to the home of the bride, and to City Hall for the civil ceremony. Dancing in the plaza follows and then, at some predetermined time, there is a procession through the streets before arriving at another house where the happy “couple” kneel before “priest” for the religious ceremony.
And, you might want to take a second look at those beautiful wedding guests with the smoldering eyes and modeling the gorgeous gowns. They are not what they seem — and that includes the bride.
The Spanish brought the Carnaval tradition to Mexico because, like many other seasonal celebrations, it conveniently coincided with indigenous festivals celebrating the “lost days” of the Mesoamerican calendar, “when faces were covered to repel or confuse evil.” Evidently it caught on, “because it was one time when normal rules could be broken…” And, San Martín Tilcajete certainly knows how!!!
By the way, many from the creative team of the movie Coco came to enjoy the festivities and renew acquaintances in this town that provided the inspiration for the alebrijes in the film. “De Oaxaca tomamos los alebrijes, la celebración del Día de los Muertos, toda esa energía y colores están en los paisajes de la película. Quise ser lo más fiel en esta investigación y plasmarlo en la cinta…” (“From Oaxaca we take the alebrijes, the celebration of the Day of the Dead, all the energy and colors are in the landscapes of the film…”) (NVI Noticias, 2/14/2018)
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged bands, calenda, Chinas Oaxaqueñas, dancers, festivals, Mexico, monos, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Saint Cecilia, Santa Cecilia on November 21, 2017| Leave a Comment »
In Oaxaca, the sound of rockets and music in the streets means there must be a calenda — and early last evening, one seemed to be only a few blocks away.
It was the ideal excuse for putting off emptying my massive wooden kitchen counter for the termite extermination crew’s arrival the next morning.
To what, or who, did I owe this timely interruption? Saint Cecilia! November 22 is her feast day and, at least in Mexico, festivals to the saints aren’t just one day events — hence yesterday’s mass at Iglesia de San Felipe Neri, followed by the calenda.
And, by the way, Santa Cecilia isn’t just any saint, she is the patrona de los músicos (patron of musicians) and so, of course, there were two bands playing in the church atrium.
Alas, though the party was only just getting started, given the chore that awaited me at home, I forced myself to leave after a half and hour. However there is more on Santa Cecilia’s dance card today and tomorrow…
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged bands, calenda, dancers, Gran Calenda del Mercado de Abastos, Guelaguetza, marmotas, Mexico, monos, Oaxaca, parade, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on July 19, 2017| 2 Comments »
Another day, another parade. Today, the Gran Calenda del Mercado de Abastos (parade of the markets) passed within a block and a half of Casita Colibrí. I couldn’t miss it — the cacophony of multiple bands, cohetes (rockets), and honking horns announced its arrival in my ‘hood! In the words of Octavio Paz, from The Labyrinth of Solitude…
“The solitary Mexican loves fiestas and public gatherings.”
“The art of the fiesta has been debased almost everywhere else, but not in Mexico.”
“Our poverty can be measured by the frequency and luxuriousness of our holidays.”
“Do they forget themselves and show their true faces? Nobody knows. The important thing is to go out, open a way, get drunk on noise, people, colors.”
“In the confusion that it generates, society is dissolved, is drowned, insofar as it is an organism ruled according to certain laws and principles.”
“Everything is united: good and evil, day and night, the sacred and the profane. Everything merges, loses shape and individuality and returns to the primordial mass.”
“The fiesta is a cosmic experiment, an experiment in disorder, reuniting contradictory elements and principles in order to bring about a renascence of life.”
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged Banda Oro Blanca, bands, Guelaguetza, Mexico, music, musicians, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Reyes Etla on July 18, 2017| 2 Comments »
The dancers get most of the press, but the musicians are some of the unsung heroes of all the Guelaguetza performances. And, I have to say, yesterday the Banda Oro Blanco at the Guelaguetza at “Las Peñitas” in Reyes Etla played a leading role. And the view wasn’t bad either!
What can I say about this clarinet player? At one point he played off a fake book on a smart phone and he was on fire!!!
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged amateur photographers, bands, Beatriz Ruiz, convite, Danza de la Pluma, danzantes, La Santísima Virgen María de la Natividad, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Teotitlán del Valle on September 10, 2015| Leave a Comment »
When last I posted, much-needed rains had come to Teotitlán del Valle, sending La Santísima Virgen María de la Natividad (the Sainted Virgin Mary of the Nativity) convite participants, spectators, and photographers dashing for cover and yours truly, home. However, prior to the deluge, little boys patiently waited.
The band led the Danzantes into the plaza in front of the Templo de la Preciosa Sangre de Jesucristo, where they, too, waited.
The unmarried women and girls, wearing their traditional red woolen faldas (skirts) and elaborately embroidered blusas (blouses), posed for friends, family, and strangers while waiting for the procession to begin.
And, Beatriz got her shot!
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged banda, bands, dance, Danza de la Pluma, danzantes, Feather dance, Fiesta de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Subalternos, Teotitlán del Valle on July 9, 2015| 9 Comments »
Storm clouds were gathering on Tuesday afternoon, as we drove out to Teotitlán del Valle for this year’s first performance of the Danza de la Pluma. However, the clouds were chased away and the plaza in front of Templo de la Preciosa Sangre de Jesucristo was bathed and blessed with the light and shadows of the golden hour.
Ahhh…
(ps) For a Moctezuma eye view of the dance, check out Chris’s Moctezuma Cam post.
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View From Casita Colibrí 