Having lived most of my life with the Pacific Ocean fifteen minutes to the west and the San Francisco Bay five minutes to the east, I never thought I could live where I was landlocked. But here I am, living in Oaxaca de Juárez, a city nestled in a valley surrounded by rugged mountain ranges, with not a beach in sight. This daunting terrain has not only helped to preserve the area’s indigenous traditions and colonial architecture, it has also prevented easy access to the state of Oaxaca’s beautiful beaches only 160+ miles from the city.
Yes, there are regular flights to Huatulco and Puerto Escondido, but they are costly. Most people choose to take one of several buses/vans or to drive themselves up and over the narrow, winding, pot-holed, and tope (speed-bump) laden roads through the Sierra Madre del Sur. It takes from six to seven hours, depending on how fast one drives, how many slow-moving vehicles one encounters, and how much road repair brings the car to a halt. Thus, I haven’t been to the coast of Oaxaca for almost five years. And so, when a friend offered a trip to the coast, I accepted.
However, instead of a day-long grueling drive to the beach of San Agustinillo, we climbed 8,400 feet up into the clouds, where we stopped in San Jose del Pacifico. Home for the night was one of the sweet little cabañas at La Puesta del Sol. Lightening lit up the sky and thunder rumbled, but I was warm and cozy courtesy of a roaring fire one of the staff had set in the stone chimenea (fireplace).
The village of San Jose del Pacifico rests on a ridge and is often encircled in Brigadoon like fog. This is mushroom (magic and otherwise) territory and it is home to quite a mixture of temporary and permanent residents — one of whom runs a fabulously funky restaurant, La Taberna de los Duendes. The food is fabulous, but a warning is in order: The portions are enormous!
After a leisurely morning, we set off for the (mostly) downhill drive to the coast! Do you see me smiling?
Mexican Peso Converter
View From Casita Colibrí 