Having lived most of my life with the Pacific Ocean fifteen minutes to the west and the San Francisco Bay five minutes to the east, I never thought I could live where I was landlocked. But here I am, living in Oaxaca de Juárez, a city nestled in a valley surrounded by rugged mountain ranges, with not a beach in sight. This daunting terrain has not only helped to preserve the area’s indigenous traditions and colonial architecture, it has also prevented easy access to the state of Oaxaca’s beautiful beaches only 160+ miles from the city.
Yes, there are regular flights to Huatulco and Puerto Escondido, but they are costly. Most people choose to take one of several buses/vans or to drive themselves up and over the narrow, winding, pot-holed, and tope (speed-bump) laden roads through the Sierra Madre del Sur. It takes from six to seven hours, depending on how fast one drives, how many slow-moving vehicles one encounters, and how much road repair brings the car to a halt. Thus, I haven’t been to the coast of Oaxaca for almost five years. And so, when a friend offered a trip to the coast, I accepted.
However, instead of a day-long grueling drive to the beach of San Agustinillo, we climbed 8,400 feet up into the clouds, where we stopped in San Jose del Pacifico. Home for the night was one of the sweet little cabañas at La Puesta del Sol. Lightening lit up the sky and thunder rumbled, but I was warm and cozy courtesy of a roaring fire one of the staff had set in the stone chimenea (fireplace).
The village of San Jose del Pacifico rests on a ridge and is often encircled in Brigadoon like fog. This is mushroom (magic and otherwise) territory and it is home to quite a mixture of temporary and permanent residents — one of whom runs a fabulously funky restaurant, La Taberna de los Duendes. The food is fabulous, but a warning is in order: The portions are enormous!
After a leisurely morning, we set off for the (mostly) downhill drive to the coast! Do you see me smiling?
Mexican Peso Converter
So the super highway blasting through the mountains that is supposed to make it a 4 hour trip to Puerto Escondido is not completed yet?
The easy part of it, on either end, is finished. I suspect it will be another couple of years. 😉
Manana
Thanks…I’ll have to do that when I return in November..I too have not been to the Ocean
It’s a lovely way to break up the exhausting (especially for the driver) drive to the coast.
I see your smile! Remember when you were Connecticut, and the Sound was always nearby. (Other side of the coin — the Sound will also come into your house and make itself at home!)
I will definitely return well before another 5 years goes by!
Well, instead of driving to the coast with BMW’s and Range Rovers. Huge mansions and entitled people, you get to a quaint little area, with cabanas and funky little restaurants…………I think your in the right place Lauretta
Lauretta, I think so too! And oh… that warm water. 😉
San Jose del Pacifico looks like a fabulous place to break the drive, Funky little restaurants too. The smell of the sea not far away.
Henry — They tell me, there are hiking trails, too!