Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Politics, Travel & Tourism, tagged Andrés Manuel López Obrador, Copa Mundial 2018, El Tri, fútbol, Mexican elections, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, soccer, World Cup 2018 on July 2, 2018| 2 Comments »
Last night, AMLO’s victory brought the sights and sounds of celebration to Oaxaca.
This morning, Mexico’s World Cup loss to Brazil brought the sights and sounds of silence to the city.
The highs and lows of life in Oaxaca over the course of twelve hours.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Politics, Travel & Tourism, tagged graffiti, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, street art, URTARTE, wall art on June 30, 2018| 2 Comments »
Despite Mexican elections tomorrow and the Mexico vs. Brazil World Cup elimination game on Monday, the walls of Oaxaca will not be silenced.
The latest from the walls of Gimnasio Universitario Centro Histórico of UABJO (Universidad Autónoma Benito Juárez de Oaxaca city center gymnasium) on Av. José María Morelos.
Posted in Culture, Politics, Protests, Sports, Travel & Tourism, tagged ¡Engage Oaxaca!, ¡Familias Unidas!, El Tri, immigrants, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, presidential election, protests, refugees, World Cup 2018 on June 27, 2018| 6 Comments »
It began this morning, as la Selección mexicana took the field in Russia for game three of their Group F stage. Even with two victories under their belt and leading their group, the people of Mexico held their collective breath. During the game, you could hear a pin drop in Oaxaca. I swear, the buses that usually grind their gears and emit clouds of exhaust on Crespo, were few and far between. El Tri held off a tenacious Swedish team in the first half, but it all fell apart in the second and the green, white, and red lost. The Mexican World Cup team and the country had to rely on South Korea to knock Germany out of the Copa del Mundo and assure Mexico goes on to the next round. Every tenth person I passed this afternoon seemed to still be sporting the team jersey, but nobody was smiling.
Oaxaca de Juárez — June 27, 2018, 7:00 PM
Today is also the last day of electioneering in Mexico — no more campaign materials are to be distributed, no more surveys disseminated, and no more robo campaign calls (gracias a dios). Mexicans go to the polls on Sunday, July 1 for Mexico’s biggest election in memory. Not only is a new president to be elected, but also 500 members of the Chamber of Deputies, 128 members of the Senate, 8 governors, and the mayor of Mexico City. And, coming on top the deadliest year in Mexico’s history, 2018 has also been one of the most violent campaign seasons in recent history. Tonight, final campaign rallies are being held all over the country, including one next door in the Plaza de la Danza — filled with amplified speeches and heavy-on-the-bass pounding music. Let’s hope we awaken only to World Cup scores and not rising political violence tallies.
However, in the midst of all this, gringos gathered this afternoon to attempt to come up with a plan to show our opposition to the inhumane actions by the United States government and our support for all peoples escaping violence and in search of a better life for their families. If you are in Oaxaca, on July 5, at 3:00 PM, there will be a peaceful protest in front of the U.S. Consular Agency under the slogans, ¡Todos Somos Migrates! ¡Familias Unidas — No Divididas! For more details, see the ¡Engage Oaxaca! Facebook page. By the way, for a little background on the reasons men, women, and children are risking their lives to flee their home countries, I highly recommend, So we’re gonna pretend these refugees aren’t a result of our actions in Central America?
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Creativity, Gardens, Travel & Tourism, tagged garden, loveseat, Mexico, Oaxaca, outdoor furniture, photographs, photos, recycled plastic, terrace, weaving with plastic on June 23, 2018| 22 Comments »
Once upon a time, I went to Linda Hanna’s house in San Andrés Huayapam — the B&B Casa Linda. In addition to running a B&B, she leads artisan tours, is a major collector of textiles, art, crafts, and you name it, AND holds occasional yard sales. I always try to attend the latter and always buy a thing or two or three or four. Thus, 2-1/2 years ago, this loveseat found it’s way onto the terrace of Casita Colibrí. Linda wasn’t sure where or when she originally purchased it and it had long been relegated to a bed for a member of her animal menagerie, as the palm had completely disintegrated on one side, leaving only the jute webbing to prevent one’s bottom from landing on the ground. However, it had “good bones” and I had fallen in love with it. I figured that with a couple of decorative pillows to hide the hole, it would look great and be relatively functional. They did and it was.
Over the course of the past couple of years, the elements have caused more wear and tear to the palm and the wooden frame needed work. Into the story comes Sebastián, of Talavera transformation, part 4 fame. As if it wasn’t enough to be a carpenter, stonemason, electrician, plumber, and glazier, he and his wife Elizabeth had taken classes in weaving with plastic and started a business — primarily making baskets/purses. A couple of months ago, he stopped by to show me their latest projects and I had an inspiration. Could they refurbish my loveseat? His eyes lit up, said yes, we talked colors and designs, and a few weeks later he hauled it away. On Wednesday, it came back home.
I suspect you are asking, why plastic when the palm looked so beautiful? Two reasons. Firstly, it was a spur of the moment decision, but I knew Sebastián, trusted the work he does, and loved the creative possibilities he showed me. Secondly, I’d bought the loveseat to live outside on the terrace (albeit, under the gazebo) and in the back of my mind, as the palm seat, back, and arms continued to deteriorate, I’d wondered if there might be something more long lasting that could be used. Thus, plastic. However, it’s not just any plastic, Sebastián and Elizabeth’s business uses recycled plastic.
By the way, they also refinished the wood, using a marine varnish to help contribute to its longevity. I think, in its new incarnation, my loveseat still looks right at home and what is old is new again!
Posted in Celebrations, Children, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Día del Padre, Father's Day, fathers and children, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on June 17, 2018| 2 Comments »
Wishing a very happy Father’s Day to fathers, stepfathers, and father-figures throughout the world.
Parenting is the most valuable job you will ever have. May you fulfill your role with great love, care, and respect. And, may you never be separated from your children by the inhumane, unnecessary, and illegal action of a despotic government.
Posted in Animals, Travel & Tourism, Weather, tagged Calle Macedonio Alcalá, dogs, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, rain, rain storms, street scenes, street vendors on June 13, 2018| 7 Comments »
Cocijo (Zapotec god of rain, thunder, and lightning) has finally awoken!
Street dogs huddle in doorways.
Street vendors batten down their hatches.
Pedestrians watch for sidewalk waterfalls.
Streets become deserted.
Walking home in Oaxaca in the rain.
Posted in Culture, Food, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged Abigail Mendoza, Anthony Bourdain, chefs, cocineras, cooks, food, Mexico, Oaxaca, popular travel destinations, suicide prevention, Teotitlán del Valle, video on June 8, 2018| 11 Comments »
He had words. I don’t.
“Do we really want to travel in hermetically sealed popemobiles through the rural provinces of France, Mexico and the Far East, eating only in Hard Rock Cafes and McDonalds? Or do we want to eat without fear, tearing into the local stew, the humble taqueria’s mystery meat, the sincerely offered gift of a lightly grilled fish head? I know what I want. I want it all. I want to try everything once.” ― Anthony Bourdain, Kitchen Confidential: Adventures in the Culinary Underbelly
I will miss your intelligence, honesty, passion, and respect for cultures different from your own. Thank you. Rest in peace, Anthony Bourdain.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged art, artists, Bob Dylan, Erika Santiago, Joan Baez, Mexico, murals, music, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Sad-Eyed Lady Of the Lowlands, San Eyed, street art, urban art, wall art on June 4, 2018| 2 Comments »
Passing Erika Santiago‘s haunting mural along the wall outside Almacén Mexicano on Calle Valentín Gómez Farías, Sad-Eyed Lady Of the Lowlands began playing in my head.
Sometimes art brings a song. And, maybe we are all a little sad these days.
Posted in Animals, Casita Colibrí, Gardens, Science & Nature, Travel & Tourism, tagged Araneidae, Argiope, Casita Colibrí, garden, Mexico, nature, Oaxaca, orb weaver spiders, photographs, photos, spider webs, stabilimentum on May 31, 2018| 2 Comments »
X currently marks the spot in OaXaca — be it for HOT weather, blockades, or orb weaving spiders. Regarding the latter, another, in a long line of Argiopes, has chosen to take up residence on my terrace.
Fun fact: The purpose of the white zigzag of silk, known as a stabilimentum, is disputed. It reflects UV light and may act as camouflage, attract insect prey, or prevent larger creatures from accidentally destroying the web. Whatever the function, this gal’s (yes, it is a female) is one of the best I’ve seen!
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Food, Gardens, Markets, Textiles, Travel & Tourism, tagged artisan markets, chickens, grilled onions, market day, mercados, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, rebozos, seeds, shawls, Tlacolula de Matamoros on May 26, 2018| 4 Comments »
Last Sunday at the weekly market in Tlacolula de Matamoros…
Chickens
Rebozos
Seeds
Lunch
It’s not just about produce, bootleg DVDs, tools, and underwear.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Flora, Travel & Tourism, tagged Capilla de la Cruz, cucharilla, desert spoon, festival, fiesta, flower decorations, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, plants, sotol, Tlacolula de Matamoros on May 23, 2018| 7 Comments »
I love Sunday market day in Tlacolula de Matamoros — the people, colors, food, cacophony, and frequent surprises speak to the life of Oaxaca. So, after returning Saturday night from two weeks in el norte, I jumped at the suggestion by blogger buddy Chris that we go to Tlacolula the next day. It did not disappoint.
Carnival rides were being set up where we frequently park and, in the usually deserted patio of the modern chapel at the intersection, several men were hard at work fashioning decorations. We peered from behind the wrought iron fence but were quickly invited in. They explained they were preparing for a festival honoring the chapel, the Capilla de la Cruz, all the while continuing to weave flowers out of a spiky, sword-like plant.
Especially during the Easter season, I’ve seen these flowers sold along with woven palms, but didn’t know what they were made from.
Once home, I couldn’t resist doing a little research (I’m a librarian, after all!) and discovered it was a species of Dasylirion (aka, Sotol, cucharilla, desert spoon). I can’t imagine what those spikes lining the sides of the leaves must do to their hands!
It was such fun talking with these guys and watching their nimble, practiced fingers at work. After two weeks away, what better way to get back into the swing of things in Oaxaca? And, the market was still to come.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged alebrije, artisans, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, San Antonio Arrazola, San Martín Tilcajete, wood carving on May 18, 2018| 10 Comments »
Carved from the wood of the copal, an owl for my older son.
Carved by Lauro Ramírez and painted by Griselda Morales, San Antonio Arrazola, Oaxaca
A rabbit for my daughter-in-law.
Carved by Mario Castellanos and painted by Reina Ramirez, San Antonio Arrazola, Oaxaca
A lion for my grandson.
Carved by Zeny Fuentes Santiago and painted by Reyna Piña Ramírez, San Martín Tilcajete, Oaxaca
And, a horse for my granddaughter.
Carved by Jesús Hernández Torres and painted by Roxana Fabian Ortega, San Martín Tilcajete, Oaxaca
Beautifully hand carved and painted alebrije for my family.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Food, Markets, Travel & Tourism, tagged aprons, cooking, embroidery, mandiles, Mexico, Oaxaca, People, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Teotitlán del Valle, textiles, Tlacolula de Matamoros, women, Zapotec fashion on May 15, 2018| 18 Comments »
The lowly utilitarian apron has been elevated to an art form by the Zapotec women of the Tlacolula valley in Oaxaca. Worn every day, mandiles (aprons) are an essential and practical part of their traditional dress. Most women own several and take great pains to color coordinate them with the day’s attire.
Fiesta honoring the Virgen de Guadalupe at the home of Fidel Cruz and Maria Luisa Mendoza, Teotitlán del Valle.
Plainer aprons are worn around the home. However, they don one of their “Sunday best” aprons for special occasions. These are heavily embroidered and often have necklines and hems that are scalloped and, as a fashion statement, are frequently worn to the weekly market.
Vendor at the Sunday market in Tlacolula del Valle.
Mandiles are made of store-bought poly-cotton fabric, usually in a small plaid design. While “100% cotton” sounds more desirable to many of us, the blend is undeniably more practical. After all, who wants to iron when there is work to do and the temperatures are summery all year ’round?
Andrea weaving in Teotitlán del Valle.
Even though the embroidery is done by sewing machine, the more elaborate designs can take from three to four days days to make. Aprons range in price from approximately 150 to 700 pesos.
Leonor Lazo feeding a baby goat in Teotitlán del Valle.
Given that, in addition to being practical, these are also a fashion accessory, it should come as no surprise that styles can vary from village to village.
Young women from San Miguel del Valle attending a festival in Teotitlán del Valle.
I grew up with aprons. My grandmother lived next door and could always be found wearing a “house-dress” and a pinafore style apron with front patch pockets. Some were plain, but many she decorated with embroidery. Thus the mandiles of Oaxaca spoke to me and I listened.
Reyna Mendoza speaking to her El Sabor Zapoteco cooking class.
My first “Oaxaca” apron was a maroon plaid cobbler style with only a moderate amount of embroidery. After a year or two, it became so much a part of my home attire that I bought another in brown plaid. These are my workhorses and I wear them every day while cooking, cleaning, and even gardening. And, I proudly bring my own apron to cooking classes and make sure to pack one when I’ve been invited to a fiesta in Teotitlán del Valle — putting it on to help clear tables. I always get smiles from the women (and some of the men, too).
Me, mi mandil, a metate, and maiz at El Sabor Zapoteco cooking class in Teotitlán del Valle.
However, after countless Sunday market day trips to Tlacolula de Matamoros, not to mention, spending a lot time over the past several years in Teotitlán del Valle, I couldn’t help but be inspired by the fashion statements women, both young and old, were making, so I bought a slightly more elaborately embroidered pinafore style and then another and another.
Three of my mandiles; the red is the newest.
I even dared to wear one recently in New York at my granddaughter’s first birthday party. With children ranging in age from six weeks to six years, I thought it was a very practical fashion statement on my part. And, guess who got one for her birthday?
Birthday present to my granddaughter — a toddler-size mandil.
A good place to check out who is wearing what style of mandil is at Tlacolula’s Sunday market. And, should you want to buy one for yourself and/or give one as a gift, there are at least eight apron stalls at the back of the market on Sundays.
Apron stall at the back of the Tlacolula de Matamoros market.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Food, Travel & Tourism, tagged aprons, artisan markets, artisans, Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca, cooking, Encuentro de Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca 2018, food festival, Mexico, mocajete, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, produce, textiles on May 12, 2018| Leave a Comment »
I couldn’t resist posting more from the Encuentro de Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca 2018 to tempt you to put next year’s gathering of traditional Oaxacan cooks on your calendar.
Amazing traditional cooks from the state of Oaxaca served up taste tempting fare in the Plaza de la Danza for four full, and I mean FULL days, April 25-28.
And, should one be inspired to immediately head to one’s own kitchen, the Mercado Oaxaca set up in the courtyard of the Facultad de Bellas Artes (across from the Plaza de la Danza) offered mouth-watering fresh fruits and vegetables, herbs, dried chiles, honeys, vinegars, and so much more. I came away with a luscious cantaloupe.
In addition, to assist one in the preparation and serving of one’s own delicious meals, Arte de la Mesa presented vendors, next door in the courtyard of the Palacio Municipal, selling “made in Oaxaca” glassware, utensils, pottery, placemats, tablecloths, and dish towels, aprons, metates and molcajetes, among other kitchenware.
Do you see the piggy-face molcajete? I bought it and have spent hours and hours, not to mention muscle power, seasoning it. If you don’t believe me, use your favorite search engine to check out the various methods — there are no shortcuts!
Mexican Peso Converter
View From Casita Colibrí 
Oaxaca’s wallpaper
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Politics, Travel & Tourism, tagged graffiti, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, political art, political commentary, protest, stencil art, street art, URTARTE, wall art on May 29, 2018| 4 Comments »
Protest art continues to paper the streets of Oaxaca.
It’s there in black and white against walls of texture and color — greeting the morning’s light and disappearing as shadows fall.
Today, the faces of rage, resistance, and anguish are not only looking down from walls, they are seen at eye level in Oaxaca’s zócalo and streets. They’re back… The annual occupation and blockades by Sección 22 of the CNTE (teachers’ union) has begun.
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