Late yesterday afternoon in Teotitlán del Valle — along with village officials, church committee members, 200 unmarried young women, Danza de la Pluma Promesa 2016-2018 dancers, players of the traditional teponaxtle (drum) and the chirimía (small oboe), pyrotechnicians, and two bands — children gathered.
Boys came holding carrizo poles topped with mini marmotas (fabric globes), sheep, turkeys, giraffes, airplanes, and other images whose significance escapes me — though this year Quetzalcoatl made an appearance.
Little girls came wearing miniature versions of the traditional red wool enredo (wrap skirt) and embroidered or crochet blouses.
They assembled in the atrium of the church for the start of the *convite (special kind of procession) honoring the Preciosa Sangre de Nuestro Señor Jesucristo, the patron saint of the village and whose image, attributed to Oaxacan painter Miguel Cabrera, resides in Teotitlán’s church.
The procession wound its way from the atrium, through the principal streets (mostly cobblestone) of the village, and back to the atrium — approximately two miles (3.2 km)!
Giving a group of boys long poles has the potential for high jinx, but most was limited to clever ways to evade overhanging tree limbs.
The littlest girls were beginning their years long conditioning in order to develop the arm strength needed to hold a canasta (basket) above their head for over an hour — SO much harder than it looks!
And, there were boys in the band — some already affecting a cool “Blues Brothers” look.
This was just the beginning of the festival — there will be the danzantes performing the Danza de la Pluma, fireworks (including toritos and castillos), and another convite. So, stay tuned for more to come.
*Convite: According to Harrap’s Spanish and English Pocket Dictionary, convite means reception. Larousse Standard Diccionario translates convite to “invitation” or “banquet.” And, if one turns to Google or Bing translation programs, a convite is a “treat.”
Despite Mexican elections tomorrow and the Mexico vs. Brazil World Cup elimination game on Monday, the walls of Oaxaca will not be silenced.
The latest from the walls of Gimnasio Universitario Centro Histórico of UABJO (Universidad Autónoma Benito Juárez de Oaxaca city center gymnasium) on Av. José María Morelos.
It began this morning, as la Selección mexicana took the field in Russia for game three of their Group F stage. Even with two victories under their belt and leading their group, the people of Mexico held their collective breath. During the game, you could hear a pin drop in Oaxaca. I swear, the buses that usually grind their gears and emit clouds of exhaust on Crespo, were few and far between. El Tri held off a tenacious Swedish team in the first half, but it all fell apart in the second and the green, white, and red lost. The Mexican World Cup team and the country had to rely on South Korea to knock Germany out of the Copa del Mundo and assure Mexico goes on to the next round. Every tenth person I passed this afternoon seemed to still be sporting the team jersey, but nobody was smiling.
Oaxaca de Juárez — June 27, 2018, 7:00 PM
Today is also the last day of electioneering in Mexico — no more campaign materials are to be distributed, no more surveys disseminated, and no more robo campaign calls (gracias a dios). Mexicans go to the polls on Sunday, July 1 for Mexico’s biggest election in memory. Not only is a new president to be elected, but also 500 members of the Chamber of Deputies, 128 members of the Senate, 8 governors, and the mayor of Mexico City. And, coming on top the deadliest year in Mexico’s history, 2018 has also been one of the most violent campaign seasons in recent history. Tonight, final campaign rallies are being held all over the country, including one next door in the Plaza de la Danza — filled with amplified speeches and heavy-on-the-bass pounding music. Let’s hope we awaken only to World Cup scores and not rising political violence tallies.
However, in the midst of all this, gringos gathered this afternoon to attempt to come up with a plan to show our opposition to the inhumane actions by the United States government and our support for all peoples escaping violence and in search of a better life for their families. If you are in Oaxaca, on July 5, at 3:00 PM, there will be a peaceful protest in front of the U.S. Consular Agency under the slogans, ¡Todos Somos Migrates! ¡Familias Unidas — No Divididas! For more details, see the ¡Engage Oaxaca! Facebook page. By the way, for a little background on the reasons men, women, and children are risking their lives to flee their home countries, I highly recommend, So we’re gonna pretend these refugees aren’t a result of our actions in Central America?
Once upon a time, I went to Linda Hanna’s house in San Andrés Huayapam — the B&B Casa Linda. In addition to running a B&B, she leads artisan tours, is a major collector of textiles, art, crafts, and you name it, AND holds occasional yard sales. I always try to attend the latter and always buy a thing or two or three or four. Thus, 2-1/2 years ago, this loveseat found it’s way onto the terrace of Casita Colibrí. Linda wasn’t sure where or when she originally purchased it and it had long been relegated to a bed for a member of her animal menagerie, as the palm had completely disintegrated on one side, leaving only the jute webbing to prevent one’s bottom from landing on the ground. However, it had “good bones” and I had fallen in love with it. I figured that with a couple of decorative pillows to hide the hole, it would look great and be relatively functional. They did and it was.
Over the course of the past couple of years, the elements have caused more wear and tear to the palm and the wooden frame needed work. Into the story comes Sebastián, of Talavera transformation, part 4 fame. As if it wasn’t enough to be a carpenter, stonemason, electrician, plumber, and glazier, he and his wife Elizabeth had taken classes in weaving with plastic and started a business — primarily making baskets/purses. A couple of months ago, he stopped by to show me their latest projects and I had an inspiration. Could they refurbish my loveseat? His eyes lit up, said yes, we talked colors and designs, and a few weeks later he hauled it away. On Wednesday, it came back home.
I suspect you are asking, why plastic when the palm looked so beautiful? Two reasons. Firstly, it was a spur of the moment decision, but I knew Sebastián, trusted the work he does, and loved the creative possibilities he showed me. Secondly, I’d bought the loveseat to live outside on the terrace (albeit, under the gazebo) and in the back of my mind, as the palm seat, back, and arms continued to deteriorate, I’d wondered if there might be something more long lasting that could be used. Thus, plastic. However, it’s not just any plastic, Sebastián and Elizabeth’s business uses recycled plastic.
By the way, they also refinished the wood, using a marine varnish to help contribute to its longevity. I think, in its new incarnation, my loveseat still looks right at home and what is old is new again!
Wishing a very happy Father’s Day to fathers, stepfathers, and father-figures throughout the world.
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Parenting is the most valuable job you will ever have. May you fulfill your role with great love, care, and respect. And, may you never be separated from your children by the inhumane, unnecessary, and illegal action of a despotic government.
“Do we really want to travel in hermetically sealed popemobiles through the rural provinces of France, Mexico and the Far East, eating only in Hard Rock Cafes and McDonalds? Or do we want to eat without fear, tearing into the local stew, the humble taqueria’s mystery meat, the sincerely offered gift of a lightly grilled fish head? I know what I want. I want it all. I want to try everything once.” ― Anthony Bourdain, Kitchen Confidential: Adventures in the Culinary Underbelly
I will miss your intelligence, honesty, passion, and respect for cultures different from your own. Thank you. Rest in peace, Anthony Bourdain.
X currently marks the spot in OaXaca — be it for HOT weather, blockades, or orb weaving spiders. Regarding the latter, another, in a long line of Argiopes, has chosen to take up residence on my terrace.
Fun fact: The purpose of the white zigzag of silk, known as a stabilimentum, is disputed. It reflects UV light and may act as camouflage, attract insect prey, or prevent larger creatures from accidentally destroying the web. Whatever the function, this gal’s (yes, it is a female) is one of the best I’ve seen!
Protest art continues to paper the streets of Oaxaca.
It’s there in black and white against walls of texture and color — greeting the morning’s light and disappearing as shadows fall.
Today, the faces of rage, resistance, and anguish are not only looking down from walls, they are seen at eye level in Oaxaca’s zócalo and streets. They’re back… The annual occupation and blockades by Sección 22 of the CNTE (teachers’ union) has begun.
I love Sunday market day in Tlacolula de Matamoros — the people, colors, food, cacophony, and frequent surprises speak to the life of Oaxaca. So, after returning Saturday night from two weeks in el norte, I jumped at the suggestion by blogger buddy Chris that we go to Tlacolula the next day. It did not disappoint.
Carnival rides were being set up where we frequently park and, in the usually deserted patio of the modern chapel at the intersection, several men were hard at work fashioning decorations. We peered from behind the wrought iron fence but were quickly invited in. They explained they were preparing for a festival honoring the chapel, the Capilla de la Cruz, all the while continuing to weave flowers out of a spiky, sword-like plant.
Especially during the Easter season, I’ve seen these flowers sold along with woven palms, but didn’t know what they were made from.
Once home, I couldn’t resist doing a little research (I’m a librarian, after all!) and discovered it was a species of Dasylirion (aka, Sotol, cucharilla, desert spoon). I can’t imagine what those spikes lining the sides of the leaves must do to their hands!
It was such fun talking with these guys and watching their nimble, practiced fingers at work. After two weeks away, what better way to get back into the swing of things in Oaxaca? And, the market was still to come.
Mexican Peso Converter
Oaxaca’s wallpaper
May 29, 2018 by spixl
Protest art continues to paper the streets of Oaxaca.
It’s there in black and white against walls of texture and color — greeting the morning’s light and disappearing as shadows fall.
Today, the faces of rage, resistance, and anguish are not only looking down from walls, they are seen at eye level in Oaxaca’s zócalo and streets. They’re back… The annual occupation and blockades by Sección 22 of the CNTE (teachers’ union) has begun.
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Posted in Creativity, Culture, Politics, Travel & Tourism | Tagged graffiti, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, political art, political commentary, protest, stencil art, street art, URTARTE, wall art | 4 Comments »