No, not a newly discovered mutant killer variety — only one of the sculptures currently hanging out along the Alcalá. It is part of a public art exhibit, “El migrante,” by Oaxaqueño artisit, Fernando Andriacci.
Archive for the ‘Travel & Tourism’ Category
Invasion of the giant dragonfly
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Travel & Tourism, tagged Andador Turístico, art, Calle Macedonio Alcalá, culture, dragonfly, exhibitions, Fernando Andriacci, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, public art, sculptures, street art, urban art on April 27, 2014| 2 Comments »
Feliz cumpleaños Oaxaca!
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, History, Holidays, Transportation, Travel & Tourism, tagged airplanes, aviones, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Pilatus PC7, popular travel destinations on April 25, 2014| 2 Comments »
Today the City of Oaxaca celebrates 482 years as a colonial city. (*** See below for a little history.) The day began at 6 AM with the ringing of the Cathedral’s bells, the singing of Mañanitas Oaxaqueñas, and marimbas and tamales on the Alameda de León. Alas, that was a little early for me to be up, dressed, and downtown. However, all I had to do was step out on my terrace to watch the next event of the day.
Five Pilatus PC7 Mexican Air Force planes put on a show over the city.
They made several passes over the city.
For their finale, contrails displayed the green, white, and red of the Mexican flag.
And then they were gone. I love how Noticias concludes their report, “After 45 minutes, the ‘steel birds’ returned to their base, pending a new appeal to challenge gravity.”
Celebrations continue through May 8 and a schedule of events can be found HERE.
*** In 1532 Spanish settlers (their bloody way paved by Hernán Cortés and his conquistadores) successfully petitioned the Queen of Spain for a land grant of 1 square league. The colonists had already established their own town on the site of Huaxyacac, renamed it Antequera (after an old Roman city in Spain) and received a Royal Charter from King Charles I of Spain. However, Cortés had successfully gotten the entire Valley of Oaxaca (hundreds of thousands of acres) declared as his own private marquisate and, his greed knowing no bounds, kept trying to evict the colonial townspeople. By obtaining the queen’s charter, this end-run around Cortés insured the rights of the townspeople to the land.
Portraits of Jesús
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Easter, Good Friday, Holy Week, Jesus, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Procesión del Silencio, Procession of Silence, Semana Santa, Superstar lyrics, Viernes Santo on April 23, 2014| Leave a Comment »
Good Friday wasn’t all about Mary. Viernes Santo processions present larger-than-life images of Jesús in all his piety and suffering.
Jesus Christ, Jesus Christ
Who are you? What have you sacrificed?
Jesus Christ Superstar
Do you think you’re what they say you are?
— Superstar, lyrics by Andrew Lloyd Webber
Portraits of María
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Easter, Good Friday, Holy Week, La Virgen María, Liza Bakewell, Mexico, Oaxaca, Perilous Journeys, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Procesión del Silencio, Procession of Silence, Semana Santa, Viernes Santo, virgen de dolores, Virgen de La Soledad, Virgin Mary on April 21, 2014| Leave a Comment »
Good Friday in Oaxaca… Jesús may be the one who they say was crucified and resurrected, but María is never far from his side.
From frequent traveler to Oaxaca, Liza Bakewell’s book, Madre: Perilous Journeys with a Spanish Noun:
One can travel all over Spain and its former viceroyalties and never see as many elaborately bedecked and bejeweled Virgins as one will see here in Mexico — neither in number, nor in glory. Yes, in Peru there are many famously ornate ones. In Colombia, too. Argentina, Chile, Bolivia, Ecuador have their share. The Philippines is a runner-up. But Mexico has all of them beat. Marian devotion, the worship of the Virgin Mary in all her forms through song, prayer, writing painting, sculpture, and shrines, went wild in Mexico. (p. 169)
Felices a todos!
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Easter, holidays, Holy Week, Mexico, Oaxaca, Pascuas, photographs, photos, Semana Santa on April 20, 2014| 2 Comments »
From the streets of Oaxaca today, wishing you happy Easter Sunday…
almost Earth Day…
And, though nothing seen around the streets of the city, a happy Passover!
Holy blindfold, Batman!
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Easter, Gospel of Luke, Gospel of Mark, Holy Week, Jesus, Jueves Santo, Maundy Thursday, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Semana Santa on April 18, 2014| 4 Comments »
Last night, fortified by tostadas, guacamole, and a little vino, a gal pal and I set out for the Jueves Santo (aka: Holy Thursday and Maundy Thursday) tradition of visiting seven churches. According to that fount of knowledge, Wikipedia, “The tradition of visiting seven churches on Holy Thursday is an ancient practice, probably originating in Rome.”
We purchased our bag of Pan Bendito (bread that had been blessed) and set off. As always, the sidewalks were teeming with people in a combination of a semi-solemn pilgrimage, street festival, family night at the fair, and date night. (Of course, there was canoodling.) And, despite the “Entrada” and “Salida” signs on the doors of many of the churches, foot traffic was often gridlocked. I didn’t help matters when I stopped short. Jesus wearing a blindfold?
At another church, another blindfolded Jesus…
And, another…
Holy Thursday, Batman, how could I have missed these blindfolded Jesus figures in 2010, 2011, 2012, and 2013???
(For those, like me, who are clueless where this blindfold business comes from: According to the Gospels of Luke (22:64) and Mark (14:65), Jesus was blindfolded, mocked, and beaten following his trial and before his crucifixion.)
Good Friday morning to you
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Christianity, Easter, Estaciones de la Cruz, Good Friday, Holy Mother, Holy Week, Jesus, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Semana Santa, Via Cruces, Viernes Santo on April 18, 2014| 5 Comments »
And so, Viernes Santo began…
Processions from churches in the Historic District began at 7:00 AM.
They converged at the Alameda, on the south side of the Cathedral,
where “our Lord meets his most Holy Mother going towards Calvary.”
The faithful, now as one, then proceeded east on Independencia…
along with the images of Mary and Jesus…
stopping along the way at Stations of the Cross.
I left at 9:30 AM — they were still going. Early this evening, all will again gather for the Procession of Silence. No rest for the faithful or weary bloggers!
Lord of the Little Burro
Posted in Animals, Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged culture, Domingo de Palmas, Holy Week, Mexico, Oaxaca, offerings, Palm Sunday, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, religion, San Antonino Castillo Velasco, Semana Santa on April 14, 2014| 3 Comments »
San Antonino Castillo Velasco continues to enchant. What’s not to like about a village known for growing flowers, decorating graves with designs created with flor inmortal (immortal flowers) during Día de los Muertos, and floral designs executed in exquisite embroidery?!!
Then there is Palm Sunday and the tradition of gathering at the panteón, loading El Señor del Burrito with locally grown bounty, blessing by the priest, an incense led procession carrying it to the church, and then selling it to raise money for a local orphanage.
It never ceases to amaze! The produce loaded onto the Little Burro, along with the overflow, was fantastic — enormous cabbages, the whitest of white cauliflower, perfect roses, cacao beans, squash, fruits, and on and on…
Then there are the people… young and old, they are always gracious and welcoming. And this year, under temperatures threatening 90ºF, women were circulating throughout the gathering crowd, offering thirst quenching aguas to stave off dehydration.
Oh yes, there were also kids and animals — and sometimes together! As I think I’ve mentioned before, children in these indigenous communities seem to always be included and when old enough (5 and up, I’m guessing), given responsibilities — joy and exuberance, along with patience and commitment, abound.
I loved watching the little boys wrangling the goats as the procession proceeded from the panteón to the church.
Lady of Sorrows
Posted in Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged altars, Día de la virgen de Dolores, Ex Convento de Santa Catalina de Siena, Mexico, Oaxaca, Our Lady of Sorrows, photographs, photos, Viernes de Dolores on April 11, 2014| 2 Comments »
Today is the sixth Friday of Lent and Oaxaca is commemorating Viernes de Dolores, the Friday of Our Lady of Sorrows.
The Municipality of Oaxaca, the Ministry of Tourism, and Hotel Quinta Real Oaxaca extended an invitation to a free Concierto Viernes de Dolores in the Ex Convento de Santa Catalina de Siena. The less than one-hour program included a description of the altar (including the sprouted chia — yes, the original Chia Pets); a powerful poem relating the story of the celebration that alternated with a musical program sung by Coro de la Ciudad de Oaxaca, under the direction of Israel Rivera Cañas, that included the traditional, Stabat Mater de Juan Matís, a 13th-century Catholic hymn about the Sorrows of Mary.
At the Cross her station keeping,
stood the mournful Mother weeping,
close to her Son to the last.
The acoustics of Santa Catalina de Siena were wonderful, the horchata and agua de chia, served at the conclusion of the program, were refreshing, and it was a much welcome and tranquil way to spend an hour on a busy Friday.
Still life at CASA
Posted in Buildings, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged bins, CASA, Centro de las Artes de San Agustín, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, recycling, San Agustín Etla on April 10, 2014| Leave a Comment »
One of the stops while my gal pals were visiting two weeks ago was the Centro de las Artes de San Agustín (CASA), in San Agustín Etla. This re-imagined former textile factory is one of the most esthetically pleasing spaces I’ve ever experienced.
Even the recycling bins are exquisitely designed and placed!
Reptiles, real & imagined
Posted in Animals, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged alebrije, Bertha Cruz, ceramic gecko, geckos, lizards, Mexico, Mitla, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, reptiles, San Antonio Arrazola, Talavera on April 8, 2014| 6 Comments »
This post was inspired by a couple of recent close encounters of the reptilian kind.
When my gal pals were visiting at the end of March, naturally we went to Mitla and wandered through the archeological site. In addition to the intricate fretwork, remains of wall paintings, massive columns, and tombs, one of the, very much alive, residents of this “place of the dead,” caught our eye.
She was extremely busy digging a hole in the rocks (to lay eggs?) and allowed us get within less than a meter from her. One of her relatives was, no doubt an inspiration for one of my favorite alebrije by Bertha Cruz of the woodcarving village of San Antonio Arrazola.
And then, a couple of nights ago, one of my resident, but very shy, geckos made a rare appearance on one of the beams that spans my brick ceiling.
While my geckos greet me in the morning and night with their welcoming chirps, they seldom come out into the open when I’m around. However, there it was, high above my head and frozen in place as I approached. It remained while I went to get my camera and then stayed for the requisite photo shoot. Thank you my chirping friend!
I wonder if, during its nocturnal wanderings through my apartment, my little gecko came across its talavera likeness hanging on the wall?
Danzantes on the Plaza
Posted in Culture, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged dancers, Danza de la Pluma, danzantes, Feather dance, folk dancing, Mexico, Muestra Internacional de Danza Oaxaca, Oaxaca, video on April 6, 2014| 2 Comments »
Do you remember the Danzantes in training from two weeks ago? All that practice by folkloric dancers from eight villages in the valleys of Oaxaca, was for last night’s “monumental” opening of the Muestra Internacional de Danza Oaxaca.
The dance festival lasts through next Saturday (April 12, 2014), with events taking place at venues throughout the city, AND all are free!
By the way, I’d received an email notice of the dance festival, but it was the comment, “Hope to see us this coming Saturday” from “the danzante with the orange penacho and green shirt” seen in a photo from my blog post, Speaking of Danzantes, that had me making a special point to attend. Muchisimas gracias a Abdiel for the tip. I hope you see this post!
Cerrado? Oh no!
Posted in Buildings, Markets, Renovation, Travel & Tourism, tagged markets, Mercado Benito Juárez, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos on April 2, 2014| 11 Comments »
Braving 90+º F temperatures this afternoon, I headed down to the, you-can-buy-anything-you-want, Mercado Benito Juárez. This is my “go to” market for nueces (pecans), arándanos (dried cranberries), coffee beans, chapulines (grasshoppers), fruits, and vegetables. There is also mole, meats, fish, textiles, flowers, souvenirs, piñatas, costumes, lucha libre masks, baskets, leather goods, hats, hair-care products, jewelry, and much more — the original “mall.”
Today, all I needed was my favorite tiny Dominico bananas and a couple of avocados. However, suspicion set in when I noticed NO double-parked vehicles or even much traffic on Las Casas. A bloqueo (blockade)? No. Muy extraño (very strange). I crossed the street and walked down to my regular entrance into the market and noticed the corrugated metal doors of the vendor stalls along the street were tightly shut and then saw a sign at the gate to the market that read…
Closed for maintenance work!!! No reason why, no re-opening date, and no relocation site for the vendors was given. I flashed on visions of the six-month renovation of my neighborhood, Mercado IV Centenario. Hmmm… does it have something to do with the aguas negras (sewage), due to a short-circuit underground that was reported last week? I’m guessing, yes. According to today’s report in NSS Oaxaca, there is dredging going on (Oaxaca’s version of Roto Rooter?), vendors will then clean up (disinfect?) their stalls, and the mercado will reopen tomorrow. Por favor, keep your fingers crossed.
Update: Mercado Benito Juárez re-opened yesterday, as promised. According to my favorite fruit and vegetable vendor, it was closed on Wednesday due to the aguas negras problem.
Just because…
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged graffiti, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, street art, urban art, wall art on April 1, 2014| 4 Comments »
Good Samaritans
Posted in Beverages, Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Food, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged agua fresca, Día de la Samaritana, Día de las Aguas, Good Samaritan day, Horchata, Lent, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on March 30, 2014| 4 Comments »
If you are in Oaxaca and it’s the fourth Friday of Lent, it must be Día de la Samaritana (AKA, el Día de las Aguas) — a uniquely Oaxacan celebration. It is inspired by the Gospel of John story in the New Testament: At noon, a tired and, apparently, thirsty Jesus, on his way to Galilee, asks a Samaritan woman at Jacob’s Well in Sychar for some water. His request was highly unusual because, according to the Old Testament, “Jews regarded the Samaritans as foreigners and their attitude was often hostile.” The woman complied with his request and the rest is history.
By noon, this past Friday in Oaxaca, the thermometer had already reached 90º F in El Centro Histórico and people of all ages, from small children to abuelos, were already lined up at bougainvilla and palm decorated booths in front of churches, schools, and businesses for the traditional Día de la Samaritana free aguas. It wasn’t just plain water they were waiting on, it was for divinely flavored aguas frescas made with fresh fruits and flowers — jamaica, horchata, chilacayota, tamarindo, sandia, and others. However in front of the churches, prior to the offering of aguas, there was a reenactment of Jesus and the Samaritana, as well as a priestly blessing — and an article in Noticias reported that, given the blazing hot sun, some in the crowd became a little impatient.
All were eventually served and the streets were filled with smiling people drinking a rainbow of aguas. Within an hour the serving pots, pitchers, bowls, and buckets were empty and all that remained were garbage containers filled to overflowing with plastic cups.
By the way, talking to my friend Sam, who teaches at Universidad José Vasconcelos de Oaxaca, they had an aguas frescas contest — memorable combinations of watermelon with strawberries and lime; atole with tuna nieve; and coconut with strawberries. However, I was informed the day’s winner was the piña colada — alas, minus the rum, I’m thinking.
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