Posted in Creativity, Culture, Markets, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged band, Banda los Magueyitos de Matatlán, Mexico, music, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, stars on April 12, 2015| Leave a Comment »
There always seems to be live music in Tlacolula de Matamoros on Sunday market days. Today it was the hot band, Los Magueyitos de Matalán. The horns had me seeing stars!
Hopefully, Chris over at Oaxaca-The Year After will eventually post the video he took. In the meantime, here they are on SoundCloud.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged Baile de Los Viejitos, canes, Dance of the Old Men, mascaras, masks, Mexico, music, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Teotitlán del Valle, video on April 10, 2015| Leave a Comment »
In my last blog post, I mentioned Teotitlán del Valle does not go on Daylight Saving Time. And, they are not alone! As the article, Clocks don’t change where sun keeps time, most of Mexico didn’t adopt DST until 1996 and given the autonomy guaranteed to indigenous communities, “70% of the entire indigenous population of Oaxaca” have chosen to follow the sun — the “King of the Sky.”
Ojala, blogger buddy Chris (who doesn’t change his watch to DST either) and I will be returning to Teotitlán del Valle for the final day (into night) of the Baile de Los Viejitos, (the Dance of the Old Men) this time hosted by el quinto (5th) sección. However, before we go, a few more scenes from Tuesday’s fiesta, put on by the segunda (2nd) sección.
I say, “ojala, ” because several marches and blockades are currently in progress throughout Oaxaca and on the carreteras into and out of the city. Alas, the video I shot on Tuesday of the Baile de los Viejitos may be as close as I come to the dancing action until next year.
Posted in Celebrations, Children, Creativity, Culture, Food, Travel & Tourism, tagged Carnaval, Carnival, chicken, children, Easter, Holy Week, mascaras, masks, Mexico, mole amarillo, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Semana Santa, Teotitlán del Valle on April 8, 2015| 2 Comments »
It’s Carnaval time in Teotitlán del Valle. Yes, I know, Easter was last Sunday and Lent is over. However, like many other things (e.g., not going on Daylight Saving Time), this Zapotec village does things their own way. Thus, instead of celebrating Carnaval the day before Lent begins, they celebrate for the five days following Easter! As I’ve written about previously, Carnaval in Teotitlán is a major production that indeed takes a village; young and old, female and male all have parts to play in the festivities that include music, masked men, mezcal, and mouthwatering mole.
Yesterday, rather than sitting with the men and scattering of male and female extranjeros, gal pal J and I hung out with the women and children in the outdoor kitchen that had been set up in the back of the large earthen courtyard. There the women prepared enough chicken, mole amarillo, and tortillas to feed one hundred!
The seemingly always well-behaved kids played and took care of the babies while their mamas and abuelas worked.
Muchisimas gracias to the women and children of Teotitlán del Valle’s Segunda Sección for being so gracious and welcoming.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged crocodile, Google Doodle, How Doth the Little Crocodile, Leonora Carrington, Lewis Carroll, Mexico, Mexico City, Paseo de la Reforma, photographs, photos, public art, sculptures on April 6, 2015| 7 Comments »
Today’s Google Doodle solves a little mystery leftover from my brief March visit to Mexico City. Staying in Colonia Cuauhtemoc, making my way to Insurgentes metro stop took me across Paseo de la Reforma and past this beguiling sculpture.
I circumnavigated the sculpture on several occasions in an unsuccessful attempt at finding a plaque identifying the artist. Thanks to today’s Google Doodle, now I know. Titled, How Doth the Little Crocodile (also known simply as, Crocodile), it is by the late surrealist artist, writer, expat, and women’s liberation activist, Leonora Carrington, whose 98th birthday is being honored today. The sculpture’s title comes from the Lewis Carroll poem by the same name.
Carrington led an extraordinary and fascinating life that was touched by many of the most important events and influential people of the twentieth century. In 2000, she donated the sculpture to Mexico City, her adopted home for the latter part of her life, and it was moved to its current location in 2006. How lucky for all whose paths cross this whimsical creation with its smiling jaws!
How Doth the Little Crocodile
by Lewis Carroll
How doth the little crocodile
Improve his shining tail,
And pour the waters of the Nile
On every golden scale!
How cheerfully he seems to grin,
How neatly spreads his claws,
And welcomes little fishes in
With gently smiling jaws!
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, People, Textiles, Travel & Tourism, tagged Alberto Blanco, Arnulfo Mendoza Ruíz, art, artists, C, Carnaval, Charles Barth, dancers, exhibitions, Familia Aguilar, Inocenio Vásquez, Jésus Sosa Calvo, La Mano Mágica, Manuel Matus Manzo, mascaras, masks, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, poem, San Martín Tilcajete, signs, Taller Alfonso Castillo, tapetes, textiles, weavers, weaving, wood carving on March 28, 2015| 4 Comments »
It’s been one year since the passing of maestro Arnulfo Mendoza Ruíz.
Tejedor de los sueños by Charles Barth (alas, with reflections from other pieces)
To honor his life, an exhibit of works by his friends, colleagues, and family was inaugurated at La Mano Mágica on March 13, 2015.
His older son, Gabriel Mendoza Gagnier, curated this amazing collection of paintings, weaving, and artesanía.
Assisted by Arnulfo’s companion, Yukiko, the opening featured, not only amazing art, but also mezcal, tamales, and surprise entertainment by Carnaval dancers from San Martín Tilcajete, wearing masks carved by some of the well-known carvers from the village, including Inocenio Vásquez and Jésus Sosa Calvo.
Jésus Sosa Calvo had carved the signature entry sign for La Mano Mágica and recently, unasked, came by to freshen up the paint that had faded over the years under the intense Oaxaca sun.
While, in the words of Manuel Matus Manzo, Arnulfo Mendoza may have gone on “to meet the Jaguar and the god Murcielago,” the dreams of his magical hands remain.
Finally, this beautiful poem by Alberto Blanco from the exhibit’s catalog…
Mitades a Arnulfo
I
La mitad de la tierra
no sueña con la luna.
La mitad de la luna
no sueña con el sol.
Si la luna es la trama,
y si el sol es la urdimbre,
esa tierra es la tela
donde acaso se vive.
II
La vida es la comedia
ya la muerte es el drama,
pero el textil de siempre
es la urdimbre y la trama.
La mitad de la vida,
la mitad de la muerte:
una tela tejida
con un hilo de suerte.
Posted in Archaeology, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Travel & Tourism, Weather, tagged Mexico City, Museo Nacional de Antropología, National Anthropology Museum, National Museum of Anthropology, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Templo Mayor, Tláloc on March 23, 2015| 4 Comments »
Last week, while in Mexico City, I paid my respects to Tláloc, the Aztec rain deity, both at the Templo Mayor and Museo Nacional de Antropología (National Anthropology Museum).
Tláloc — Templo Mayor, Mexico City
I’m now back in Oaxaca and, for the third day in a row, Tláloc is making his presence known. And, rain is in the forecast for the next several days.
Fragments of a Tláloc brazier — Museo Nacional de Antropología, Mexico City
Thunder is rumbling and, out of the corner of my eye, I see flashes of lightning to the east. It may be the “dry season,” but Tláloc is speaking and we are listening.
Pot with image of Tláloc — Museo Nacional de Antropología, Mexico City
Perhaps drought-stricken California might want to build a temple to this supreme god of the rains — not to mention, institute mandatory water rationing!
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Carrizo, Casita Colibrí, deck, lampshades, Mexico, Oaxaca, pergola, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, shade structure, terrace on March 12, 2015| 5 Comments »
Two weeks ago, we returned to San Juan Guelavía to pick up my new custom-made lampshades. Again, Teresa and her family welcomed us with open arms. A couple of plastic chairs were positioned in the shade under the tree and Dulce, Teresa’s daughter, snuggled up beside me, as abuela and abuelo continued working.
Teresa briefly disappeared, but soon re-emerged, from the gate hidden in the carrizo fence, carrying my new hand-woven carrizo lampshades! After many oohs and aahs, expressions of “muchisimas gracias” by me over and over, and big smiles all around, blogger buddy Chris posed us for the requisite photo-op.
After paying for my new treasures and many more “many thanks,” shades were put in the trunk and we slid into the front seats of the car, and headed back to the city. Once home, I called Cristian, my electrician and scheduled the installation of the lampshades. The smaller was hung outside my front door…
and the larger beneath the pergola on the terrace.
I love how the light glows through the finely woven carrizo. I’m a very satisfied customer!
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Places, Travel & Tourism, tagged brass band, buildings, Carnaval, Centro de las Artes de San Agustín, Día del Barrendero, Mexico, monos, murals, Oaxaca, orange, plants, popular travel destinations, San Juan Guelavia, San Martín Tilcajete, signs, street art, trucks, Viernes del Llano, wall art on March 10, 2015| Leave a Comment »
Pick a color, any color, and you will find it in Oaxaca, be it people…
Places or things…
Today, I choose orange. Tomorrow, who knows???
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Casita Colibrí, clay sculpture, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos on March 3, 2015| Leave a Comment »
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Education, People, Politics, Protests, Tragedy, Travel & Tourism, Violence, tagged Ayotzinapa, Cristian Tomás Colón Garnica, Escuela Normal Rural Raúl Isidro Burgos, Guerrero, Mexico, murals, Normal Rural Ayotzinapa, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, street art, students, teachers’ college, Tlacolula de Matamoros, wall art on February 26, 2015| 2 Comments »
It’s been five months since 43 students from the Escuela Normal Rural Raúl Isidro Burgos teachers’ college in Ayotzinapa, Guerrero went missing. Their parents, the people of Mexico, and growing numbers around the world continue to ask, Who is Really Responsible?
A mural recently appeared along a very long wall at the entrance to Tlacolula de Matamoros.
As I’ve previously mentioned, one of missing is Cristian Tomás Colón Garnica from Tlacolula de Matamoros.
I realized, as I was processing the photos, each panel of the mural incorporates a letter. One has to stand back (in the street) to see words materialize. However, when we went back to Tlacolula on Sunday, there were cars and trucks parked in front of most of the mural and all we could see was, “Vivos 43.” I would love to hear from you, if you know the full text.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Protests, Textiles, Travel & Tourism, tagged Afromexicanos, bote, Campesinas, costumes, Día de la Bandera, demonstrations, Devil's Dance, FOSCUPT, Integrantes del Frente de Organizaciones Sociales, march, Mexico, Oaxaca, Pesqueras y del Transporte, photographs, photos, protests, traje San Pablo Tijaltepec, Urbanas on February 25, 2015| 2 Comments »
Yesterday was Día de la Bandera (Flag Day) in Mexico. Hmmm, I don’t think these were the flags they had in mind…
The flags that were flying on the streets of Oaxaca were those carried by the members of the Integrantes del Frente de Organizaciones Sociales, Campesinas, Urbanas, Pesqueras y del Transporte (FOSCUPT), an umbrella group of more than forty social organizations, peasants, urban workers, fishers, and transport workers. Thousands marched from the Fuente de las Ocho Regiones (Fountain of the 8 Regions) to the zócalo. Besides flags, there were banners and burros…
And Devils Dance street theater from an Afromexicano group, probably from the Costa Chica.
After marching and playing for miles, the destination was reached; the bote player took a break and gals from San Pablo Tijaltepec went and got something to drink.
According to this article, the mobilization was to reject bad structural policies and funding cuts being made in the peasant sector and requesting the federal government turn their eyes to Oaxaca. In addition, Jesus Romero López, leader of FOSCUPT, among other demands, called for justice for the social and political leaders who have been killed and for better urban planning, stating that the city is growing in a disorganized way, often resulting in neighborhoods with no water, electricity, or paved streets.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Carnaval, Carnival, devils, Fat Tuesday, Mardi Gras, mascaras, masks, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, San Martín Tilcajete, wood carving on February 18, 2015| 4 Comments »
Carnaval in San Martín Tilcajete means devils…
Pirates and clowns…
Unknown creatures from the imaginative minds of their creators…
And these masterpieces from this village known for its wood carving…
Carnaval in San Martín Tilcajete also means men dressed as women, a mock wedding, and young men covered in motor oil running through the village with belts of cowbells ringing. Stay tuned…
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged Day of Love and Friendship, Día del Amor y la Amistad, hearts, Mexico, music, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Trio Santo Domingo, Valentine's Day, video on February 14, 2015| 2 Comments »
February 14th isn’t just a day for lovers. In Mexico, it is known as the Día del Amor y la Amistad (Day of Love and Friendship). Oaxaca’s balloon, chocolate, and flower vendors do a booming business and restaurants are usually filled to capacity with friends, sweethearts, and families.
I fell in love with Oaxaca the first time I saw her when visiting a friend in 2007. Who wouldn’t when the guitars and harmonies of Trio Santo Domingo drew us to the zócalo on a balmy August evening! Thus, my gift to you on this day of love and friendship:
“La amistad es lluvia de flores preciosas” (Friendship is like a shower of precious flowers) — line from a Nahuatl poem.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Carrizo, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, San Juan Guelavia on February 10, 2015| 5 Comments »
Sunday, we returned to San Juan Guelavía, in search of Teresa, the gal from last week’s post about the Feria del Carrizo. With her address, family name, and measurements in hand, I was hoping to commission her to make a couple of lampshades for me. However, there are no detailed street maps for these small villages, so we had to rely on the tried and true, stopping to ask for directions, method.
Outside the church (which, for some reason, was closed this week) we asked, “Where is calle 5 de mayo?” This is a village with a population of less than 3,000 people, thus the reply, “Who are you looking for?” We said, “Teresa.” He responded, “She makes baskets?” Us, “Yes.” Him, “Hmmm… which family?” Fumbling with my notes, I came up with, “Hipolito!” “Ahhh, sí!”
Then directions rapidly cascaded from his mouth to our ears. They included many derechos, derechas, a puente, and dos tienditas. All of this was in Spanish and we turned to each other and asked, “Did you get all that?” We concurred, probably 80%. Hey, we’re getting better at this. Of course, we made a wrong turn or two, went too far south on 5 de mayo, and had to ask a few more people along the way, but eventually we found it!
On the right side of the dirt road, heading south, there is a painted number 46 slightly visible on concrete pole. It made sense that #48 might be behind the Mini Super and so we pulled in and began walking to the back.
People began materializing and we kept repeating, “Teresa.” Then, there she was, emerging from sitting under a tree, recognizing us from last week, and smiling broadly! Immediately, two chairs were brought out and placed in the shade for us. The warm and welcoming hospitality of Oaxaqueños is something to behold.
It’s a family business and once Teresa and I had worked out the size and shape for the two lampshades, the littlest guy above, brought out a small basket with a 15 peso price sticker. I asked him if he had made it, and he very proudly nodded “yes.” Needless to say, I couldn’t resist.
We will return in ten days to pick up my new lampshades and, perhaps, make a few other purchases.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Parks & Plazas, Protests, Textiles, Travel & Tourism, tagged Día de Candelaria, Fernando Andriacci, huipil, Mexico, MULT, Niño Dios, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, protests, red huipiles, Triqui, water delivery on February 4, 2015| 8 Comments »
February 2, besides being Groundhog Day in the USA, is Candelaria in Mexico. And so, late Monday morning, I went in search of Niño Díos. None was to be found in the vicinity of the Cathedral. Only the traditional red huipiles of the female Triqui members of MULT caught my eye.
I continued my quest, heading up to Templo de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe. However, as I walked through Llano park, no one was carrying a Niño Díos, dressed in this year’s finery, to the church to be blessed. Only a giant red horse sculpture by Oaxaqueño artist, Fernando Andriacci (and its red feedbag?) was there to see.
I turned west and headed for home, hoping I might possibly spot a Niño Díos as I passed Templo del Carmen Alto. But no, only a red-shirted water delivery man caught my eye.
Funny, if we allow ourselves to see things as they are and not as how we expect them to be, we can return home with something completely different and delightful from what we had set out to find.
Mexican Peso Converter
