Sunday, we returned to San Juan Guelavía, in search of Teresa, the gal from last week’s post about the Feria del Carrizo. With her address, family name, and measurements in hand, I was hoping to commission her to make a couple of lampshades for me. However, there are no detailed street maps for these small villages, so we had to rely on the tried and true, stopping to ask for directions, method.
Outside the church (which, for some reason, was closed this week) we asked, “Where is calle 5 de mayo?” This is a village with a population of less than 3,000 people, thus the reply, “Who are you looking for?” We said, “Teresa.” He responded, “She makes baskets?” Us, “Yes.” Him, “Hmmm… which family?” Fumbling with my notes, I came up with, “Hipolito!” “Ahhh, sí!”
Then directions rapidly cascaded from his mouth to our ears. They included many derechos, derechas, a puente, and dos tienditas. All of this was in Spanish and we turned to each other and asked, “Did you get all that?” We concurred, probably 80%. Hey, we’re getting better at this. Of course, we made a wrong turn or two, went too far south on 5 de mayo, and had to ask a few more people along the way, but eventually we found it!
On the right side of the dirt road, heading south, there is a painted number 46 slightly visible on concrete pole. It made sense that #48 might be behind the Mini Super and so we pulled in and began walking to the back.
People began materializing and we kept repeating, “Teresa.” Then, there she was, emerging from sitting under a tree, recognizing us from last week, and smiling broadly! Immediately, two chairs were brought out and placed in the shade for us. The warm and welcoming hospitality of Oaxaqueños is something to behold.
It’s a family business and once Teresa and I had worked out the size and shape for the two lampshades, the littlest guy above, brought out a small basket with a 15 peso price sticker. I asked him if he had made it, and he very proudly nodded “yes.” Needless to say, I couldn’t resist.
We will return in ten days to pick up my new lampshades and, perhaps, make a few other purchases.
Mexican Peso Converter
I’m glad you bought that little basket.
What a great story. The cabañas in Benito Juárez had those lampshades on their ceiling lights.
That’s funny. Based on your recommendation from your previous visit there, I too tracked down the basket makers on Sunday – pretty much through the same method as you – drive, stop, ask, turn around, repeat. I too am returning to pick up lampshades. Wonder what on earth was running through the villagers’ minds about the appearance of not just one – but then a second appearance of Gringas Seeking Lampshades seeking in the same day!
Love this story and how you bring me back to Oaxaca when I cannot be there. Looking forward to seeing these lampshades in operation.
[…] weeks ago, we returned to San Juan Guelavía to pick up my new custom-made lampshades. Again, Teresa and her family welcomed us with open […]