Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Music, Transportation, Travel & Tourism, tagged automobiles, Black and white photography, Black Limousine, boda, cars, limousine, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, Rolling Stones lyrics, weddings on February 20, 2015| 2 Comments »
We used to ride, baby
Ride around in limousines 
We looked so fine, baby
You in white and me in green
Drinking and dancing
All inside and crazy dream
Well now look at your face now baby
Look at you and look at me
We used to shine, shine, shine, shine
Say what a pair, say what a team
We used to ride, ride, ride, ride
In a long [white] limousine*
Saturday is wedding day in Oaxaca.
*Lyrics from Black Limousine by the Rolling Stones.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Carnaval, Carnival, devils, Fat Tuesday, Mardi Gras, mascaras, masks, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, San Martín Tilcajete, wood carving on February 18, 2015| 4 Comments »
Carnaval in San Martín Tilcajete means devils…
Pirates and clowns…
Unknown creatures from the imaginative minds of their creators…
And these masterpieces from this village known for its wood carving…
Carnaval in San Martín Tilcajete also means men dressed as women, a mock wedding, and young men covered in motor oil running through the village with belts of cowbells ringing. Stay tuned…
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged Day of Love and Friendship, Día del Amor y la Amistad, hearts, Mexico, music, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Trio Santo Domingo, Valentine's Day, video on February 14, 2015| 2 Comments »
February 14th isn’t just a day for lovers. In Mexico, it is known as the Día del Amor y la Amistad (Day of Love and Friendship). Oaxaca’s balloon, chocolate, and flower vendors do a booming business and restaurants are usually filled to capacity with friends, sweethearts, and families.
I fell in love with Oaxaca the first time I saw her when visiting a friend in 2007. Who wouldn’t when the guitars and harmonies of Trio Santo Domingo drew us to the zócalo on a balmy August evening! Thus, my gift to you on this day of love and friendship:
“La amistad es lluvia de flores preciosas” (Friendship is like a shower of precious flowers) — line from a Nahuatl poem.
Posted in Celebrations, Children, Creativity, Culture, Food, Holidays, Markets, Protests, Transportation, Travel & Tourism, tagged Children's Guelaguetza, Feria Regional de Hongos Silvestres, Gorilla Gallery, Karen and Jasen Willenbrink, moto taxis, New Year's Eve, Oaxaca, pan de muerto, Paseo de los Viernes de Cuaresma, photographs, photos, Procession of Silence, Quinceañera, San Antonio Cuajimoloyas, San Pablo Villa de Mitla, tapetes de arena, Teotitlán del Valle on January 1, 2015| 8 Comments »
Adiós to 2014. It was another year filled with the always amazing and often surprising sights and sounds of Oaxaca.
January – The new year began with a Quinceañera at Iglesia Sangre de Cristo on the Macedonio Alcalá.
February – Most of the month was spent in California and New York, but returned to Oaxaca sun, blue sky, and buildings with character.
March – Ahhh… the flowers, the boys, and the girls of the “only in Oaxaca” Paseo de los Viernes de Cuaresma.
April – The banners of the Procesión del Silencio (Procession of Silence) on Good Friday during Semana Santa (Holy Week).
May – Karen and Jasen Willenbrink exhibition at Gorilla Gallery.
June – Pretty in pink, a protest by tuk-tuks (moto-taxis) on the zócalo.
July – Up into the Sierra Norte for the Feria Regional de Hongos Silvestres (Wild mushrooms fair) in San Antonio Cuajimoloyas.
August – Mini Guelaguetza sponsored by the Instituto Mexicano del Seguro Social (IMSS) on the Plaza de la Danza.
September – A rainy morning walk up to the presa (dam), Piedra Azul in Teotitlán del Valle.
October – Day of the Dead tapetes de arena in progress on the Plaza de la Danza.
November – Ofrenda in San Pablo Villa de Mitla with the village’s traditional and intricately decorated pan de muerto.
December – Nochebuenas (poinsettias) for sale at mercado Sánchez Pascuas.
Muchisimas gracias to all my wonderful 2014 blog readers! I am blown away that people from 125 countries have stopped by View from Casita Colibrí this year. Your presence, comments, and encouragement have been SO very much appreciated.
¡Feliz año nuevo a tod@s! I can’t wait to see what 2015 will bring.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged 'Twas the Night Before Christmas, “Lalo” Guerrero, Christmas, Christmas decorations, Christmas Eve, Christmas tree, Eduardo Guerrero, Mexico, Nacimiento de navidad, Navidad, Nochebuena, Oaxaca, Pancho Claus, Pancho Claus ‘Twas the night before Christmas, photographs, photos, piñata, poem, popular travel destinations on December 24, 2014| 6 Comments »
It’s a quiet Nochebuena (Christmas Eve) in my childhood home here in Mill Valley. There are no sparklers to wave, no nacimiento stands in the town plaza, and no posadas are likely to knock on the front door tonight. However, there is a fire burning in the fireplace, stockings hang from the mantle, and a Douglas Fir is standing in the living room wearing four generations of family Christmas treasures.
And, visions from Ernie Villarreal’s version of Pancho Claus, by Chicano music legend, Eduardo “Lalo” Guerrero, dance in my head.
Pancho Claus
‘Twas the night before Christmas and all through la casa
Not a creature was stirring, Caramba! ¿Que pasa?
Los ninos were all tucked away in their camas,
Some in vestidos and some in pajamas.
While Mama worked late in her little cocina,
El viejo was down at the corner cantina.
The stockings were hanging con mucho cuidado,
In hopes that St. Nicholas would feel obligado
To bring all the children, both buenos y malos,
A Nice batch of dulces and other regalos.
Outside in the yard, there arouse such a grito,
That I jumped to my feet, like a frightened cabrito.
I went to the window and looked out afuera,
And who in the world, do you think que era?
Saint Nick in a sleigh and a big red sombrero
Came dashing along like a crazy bombero!
And pulling his sleigh instead of venados,
Were eight little burros approaching volados.
I watched as they came, and this little hombre
Was shouting and whistling and calling by nombre.
¡Ay, Pancho! ¡Ay, Pepe! ¡Ay, Cuca! ¡Ay, Beto!
¡Ay, Chato! ¡¡Ay, Chopo! ¡Maruca and ¡Nieto!
Then standing erect with his hand on his pecho
He flew to the top of our very own techo.
With his round little belly like a bowl of jalea,
He struggled to squeeze down our old chimenea.
Then huffing and puffing, at last in our sala,
With soot smeared all over his red suit de gala.
He filled the stockings with lovely regalos,
For none of the children had been very malos.
Then chuckling aloud and seeming contento,
He turned like a flash and was gone like the viento.
And I heard him exclaim and this is VERDAD,
Merry Christmas to all, And to All ¡Feliz Navidad!
Carlsberg and Stella Artois… What is it about beer and Christmas?
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged carving, Christmas, Mexico, Night of the Radishes, Noche de Rabanos, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, radishes on December 20, 2014| 11 Comments »
Noche de Rabanos is moving!
According to an article in yesterday’s Noticias, the continued occupation of the zócalo by the teachers and the ambulantes has forced this year’s 117th annual festival to relocate. Ahhh… only in Oaxaca!
On December 23, the 130 participants and their carved radishes, totomoxtle figures, and flor inmortal scenes will be found on the Andador Turístico (aka,Macedonio Alcalá).
Hotels are expecting an 85% occupancy rate, but the business owners along the Alcalá are concerned the Rabanos crowds will block entrances to their shops. However, I’m wondering if it might improve the viewing traffic flow. If you are in Oaxaca, please let me know — I headed north to the rain and snow of el norte to spend the holidays with mi familia.
Photos from last year’s Noche de Rabanos.
Update (as of Dec. 21): Ambulantes, though not teachers, have cleared out and Rabanos WILL be held on the zócalo.
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Parks & Plazas, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Templo de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe, Virgen de Guadalupe, Virgin of Guadalupe on December 12, 2014| 8 Comments »
Today is Guadalupe’s feast day. This Queen of Mexico, Empress of America, and patron saint of Mexico is being celebrated all over Mexico and, apparently for the first time in Vatican history, today Pope Francis to Say Mass in Honor of the Virgin of Guadalupe.
In Mexico, it’s not just a one-day event. Wednesday afternoon, while Chris and I were giving our previously mentioned presentation at the Oaxaca Lending Library, only blocks away festivities began with a religious ceremony at the Shrine of Our Lady of Guadalupe on the side of Llano Park. It was followed that night with a calenda through the streets of the city. Yesterday, Guadalupe’s children, the little Juan Diegos and their peasant sisters, were brought by parents (and grandparents) to the Templo de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe (at the north end of Llano Park), where they waited patiently in long lines to enter the church to be blessed and then be photographed in “Guadalupe” scenes.
However, on the streets of Oaxaca, Guadalupe is seen everywhere and everyday…
The other big news from Rome, that Oaxaqueños are celebrating, is the Wealth of Oaxaca craft present in the Vatican Museum — a Christmas tree and Nativity scene decorated with artesania crafted by 142 Oaxacan families from 25 municipalities in the state. The exhibition was inaugurated on December 10 and will run through February 2015 — should you be planning a trip to Italy!
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged dance, Danza de la Pluma, Mexico, Oaxaca, Oaxaca Lending Library, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Teotitlán del Valle, Virgen de Guadalupe on December 9, 2014| 7 Comments »
As a background to the December 12, Fiesta a la Virgen de Guadalupe performance of the Danza de la Pluma in Teotitlán del Valle, mañana (Dec. 10, 2014) at 5:00 PM at the Oaxaca Lending Library, Chris (of Oaxaca-The Year After fame) and I are doing a presentation about the Danza de la Pluma in Teotitlán del Valle.
From the library’s description of the talk, “The Danza de la Pluma or Dance of the Conquistadors is one of the most famous dances performed in Oaxaca. Join Shannon and Chris for a presentation filled with photos and video of their many times observing and chronicling this beautiful dance.”
Alas, it’s not free. Besides memberships, presentations like this are what keeps the library afloat. The cost is 70 pesos for OLL members and 100 pesos for non-members. Hope to see you there!
Posted in Animals, Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Markets, Travel & Tourism, tagged Alice's Restaurant, El Día de Acción de Gracias, market day, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Thanksgiving, Tlacolula de Matamoros, turkeys on November 27, 2014| 1 Comment »
Seating for twenty-two has been scavenged from around the apartment complex, tables (three of which are borrowed) are covered with oilcloth and set with plastic cutlery, cranberry sauce has been made, stock for gravy is simmering on the stove top, and the turkey has been stuffed and is currently roasting in my little oven.
Turkey sellers on market day in Tlacolula de Matamoros, Oaxaca – Oct. 26, 2014.
Neighbors, a former neighbor, and the latter’s Oaxaqueño coworkers will be bringing another turkey, more stuffing, potatoes (mashed and sweet), pumpkin pies, and beverages. Now to put together a playlist which, naturally, will include Arlo Guthrie’s, Alice’s Restaurant Alice’s Restaurant Massacree — a turkey day family tradition since 1967.
Inevitably our guests will ask, “So what exactly does Thanksgiving celebrate?” Do we continue to pass along the myth or do we explain the inconvenient truth, “that the first official Thanksgiving Day celebrated the massacre of 700 Indian men, women and children during one of their religious ceremonies.”
Then there is the question, “How is this holiday celebrated in the USA?” The following holiday rituals will no doubt be described: Many televisions will be tuned to the annual Macy’s Thanksgiving Day parade of giant balloons and traditional turkey day football (North American) games. And, as soon as the last piece of pie has been eaten, growing numbers people will be racing to the nearest shopping mall or computer to take advantage of early-bird “Black Friday” pre-Christmas sales.
However, in between the above, there is always dining table conversation — catching-up stories, old and new jokes, loving reminiscences, and the occasional arguments over politics and/or religion. But, as the folks at the Presente.org Team wrote in an email to their subscribers this morning, for Latinos in the USA, “Thanksgiving dinner might be hard when you’re sitting across the table from a loved one who was left out of the President’s executive action. When the subject comes up, don’t drown your sorrows in a bottomless pitcher of gravy. We created a graphic to help you have that tricky conversation.”
Besides my wonderful family, friends, and blog readers, I am extremely grateful to be a guest in a country where, amidst the beauty and warmth of its people and land, it’s almost impossible to ignore awkward and difficult truths. ¡Feliz Día de Acción de Gracias a tod@s!
Posted in Celebrations, Education, Holidays, Politics, Protests, Tragedy, Violence, tagged #AccionGlobalporAyotzinapa, #TodosVestidosDeNegro, Ayotzinapa, Día de la Revolución, demonstrations, Global Day of Action for Ayotzinapa, Guerrero, Iguala, Mexico, Normal Rural Ayotzinapa, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, protests, Revolution Day, students on November 20, 2014| 2 Comments »
Today is the 104th anniversary of the Mexican Revolution. However, there is no joy; most of Mexico is in mourning for the missing 43 students and the anger is building. In Mexico City the military parade and celebrations will be moved from the Zócalo to a military installation in the Polanco neighborhood. A mass protest march will replace it.
Zócalo, Oaxaca de Juárez – Nov. 17, 2014
The country’s attention is focused on today’s Global Day of Action for Ayotzinapa. Many will wear black today to mourn the loss of students, journalists, and others to violence in Mexico. It is indeed a global event; Greek students have posted a video in support of the missing students and their families. They will be Standing in Solidarity in Salinas (California) and in at least 115 other cities around the world. And, in Oaxaca, among many other events, at 4 PM there will be a Festival Por la Vida at Santo Domingo, one of 231 actions listed on a Facebook page.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Barrio San José, comparsa, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Mexico, muerteada, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, San Agustín Etla, Valle de Etla on November 2, 2014| 2 Comments »
If it’s November 2nd, it must be morning muerteada madness in San Agustín Etla . A few faces in the crowd from the Barrio San José contingent…
These guys had been dancing through the streets all night. Cervesa seemed to be the beverage of choice this morning, though, bottles of clear liquid was also being passed around — and I’m sure it wasn’t water!
Had to snap this guy — not only was his makeup gory and great, he topped it off with a San Francisco 49er cap.
And, then there was this boy… As with all the traditions here, children observe, learn, and participate at a very young age.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Day of the, La Festividad de los Muertos, Mexico, Oaxaca, ofrenda, photographs. Día de los muertos, photos, Teotitlán del Valle on October 26, 2014| 2 Comments »
Los disfuntos (the departed) are returning in less than a week. I’m sorting through photos for a friend who is giving a presentation at the Oaxaca Lending Library, on Día de los Muertos in Teotitlán del Valle, and realized I never got around to posting these…
Bells of Templo de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo ring over the village during Muertos.
Chanting in the chapel of the panteón in Teotitlán del Valle.
Food for the departed.
Serenading the departed in the panteón.
Descansa en paz / rest in peace.
Home altar with loaves of pan de muerto.
Mole negro, 2 de noviembre, at the home of a friend in Teotitlán del Valle.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, People, Religion, Tragedy, Travel & Tourism, tagged canastas, convite, Cristian Tomás Colón Garnica, Fiesta de la Virgen del Rosario, Guerrero, Iguala, marmotas, Mexico, Normal Rural Ayotzinapa, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, students, Tlacolula de Matamoros, Virgen de Juquila, Virgin of the Rosary on October 8, 2014| Leave a Comment »
Today, in Santa Catarina Juquila, about 200 km southwest of the city of Oaxaca, la Virgen de Juquila, is receiving a papal coronation. Roads leading to this remote mountain village have been repaired and repaved and extra emergency services have been in place since Monday, all in anticipation of the thousands of pilgrims who were expected to descend on Juquila.
However, for those who chose to stay closer to the city, celebrations in honor of the Virgen del Rosario (Virgin of the Rosary) have been occurring for the past week throughout the valley of Oaxaca.
Thus, blogger buddy Chris and I headed to Tlacolula de Matamoros on Friday for their annual procession.
Beginning on the street in front of the panteón, young women wearing traditional red wool skirts and beautifully crocheted white cotton blouses…
…danced their way through the streets balancing towering canastas (baskets) on their heads — the letters spelling out “Virgen del Rosario.”
The arm and neck strength it takes to carry the canastas is phenomenal and can only come from years of practice. As you can see, they begin early…
Rockets announced the procession’s arrival.
Bandas provided the music.
And, “boys to men” carrying marmotas two-stepped and twirled their way along the route.
Years of practice is required to do this, too!
Participants stop at altars throughout the village, where prayers are recited, rest breaks are taken, and tamales, sweets, and beverages (yes, including mezcal) are consumed.
This goes on until 1:00 or 2:00 AM. We arrived at 4:00 PM, stayed for a couple of hours, carried nothing heavier than our cameras and daypacks, and were ready to call it a day!
However, this is a bittersweet post. While we were reveling in the festivities, a family in Tlacolula de Matamoros was in agony. It was reported last night that 18-year old, Cristian Tomás Colón Garnica, from Tlacolula de Matamoros, is one of the 43 students at Normal Rural ‘Raúl Isidro Burgos’ in Ayotzinapa who went missing on September 26 in Iguala, Guerrero after police opened fire on the students, who were soliciting funds for an Oct. 2 demonstration protesting funding cuts to their state-financed school.
Posted in Celebrations, Food, Travel & Tourism, tagged Barrio de Xochimilco, chutney, food, goat cheese, jamaica, Mexico, Oaxaca, organic market, photographs, photos, Pochote, produce, queso de cabra, Templo de Santo Tomas Xochimilco on October 5, 2014| 10 Comments »
What is it about October? If I was still living in Mill Valley (California), this weekend I’d probably be joining friends in Golden Gate Park at Hardly Strictly Bluegrass in San Francisco. Of course, I’d have to weigh the days and times of “can’t miss” performers with “must see” films at the Mill Valley Film Festival, which opened October 2 — not to mention trying to catch the San Francisco Giants post-season games. Here in Oaxaca, the song is the same! The Oaxaca FilmFest opened Friday night (Oct. 4) and runs through October 11. Yesterday, the Día del Amaranto (Day of Amaranth) festival was held in the Plaza de la Danza. In addition, during the week, various communities, both in the city and out, are celebrating the Virgen del Rosario (more to come on this).
AND, on Friday and Saturday Oaxaca city’s Mercado Organico (also known as, Pochote-Xochimilco or Pochimilco) located in the plaza of Templo de Santo Tomas Xochimilco, celebrated its 11th anniversary. There was music, folkloric dancers, stalls filled with food and drink, and people (including me) enjoying it all.
The produce at this stand was SO fresh and tempting, even though I didn’t need anything!
Lucky for me, I found the gal who sells my favorite jamaica (hibiscus) concentrate, as I’d run out last week.
Then there was this guy selling jars of homemade chutney. He even remembered me, even though I hadn’t been there for several months! I wanted them all, but managed to restrain myself and come home with just the peach chutney.
The chutney samples were offered on tostadas with a small slice of queso de cabra (goat cheese). ¡My sabroso! “Where?” I asked. “Right over there,” he answered. I made a beeline for the aisle where he pointed and bought some of this yummy cheese.
As always, whenever I venture up the hill to the organic market, I came home with way more than I can possibly eat in a week. Guess I need a little help from my friends. ¡Feliz cumpleaños, Pochimilco! — another of Oaxaca’s treasures.
For more on the market, check out the Pochimilco page on the Oaxaca Wiki.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Andri Cauldwell quote, Black and white photography, Carnaval, Doña Marina, Guelaguetza, Mexico, Moctezuma, musicians, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Santiago Juxtlahuaca, Teotitlán del Valle, Tlacolula de Matamoros on September 19, 2014| 6 Comments »
After a visit to Centro Fotográfico Manuel Álvarez Bravo, I’m seeing the color of Oaxaca in black and white…
“To see in color is a delight for the eye but to see in black and white is a delight for the soul.” – Andri Cauldwell
Mexican Peso Converter
View From Casita Colibrí 