Posted in Celebrations, Children, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged children, Mexico, Oaxaca, parades, photographs, photos, Primavera, Spring on March 20, 2015| Leave a Comment »
Unlike many places on our planet, bees were plentiful on the streets of Oaxaca this morning…
They were a little apprehensive, but moms, dads, and teachers were there to hold their hands and dry the occasional tear.
There were other sweet cuddly critters…
and, even princesses.
Oaxaca opens her arms and welcomes spring with a parade of children. How could one not smile and be happy?!!
Posted in Beverages, Celebrations, Culture, Food, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged bougainvillea, chila, Día de la Samaritana, Día de las Aguas, Good Samaritan day, Horchata, Lent, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on March 14, 2015| 1 Comment »
Yesterday was the fourth Friday of Lent and, if you are in Oaxaca, that means Día de la Samaritana, where, believer or not, you will be offered aguas from doorways and street-side tables set up in front of churches, restaurants, hotels, government agencies, and private homes.
I got a late start; unseasonable rain was threatening and the grey sky had made it hard to leave my cozy apartment.
But, what can I say? Horchata, sandia, guayaba, coco, chilacayota, chía con limón, and even tejate and nieves were offered with smiles, free of charge, to all passersby.
Within a block, I happily and gratefully accepted a large plastic cup of horchata; another one followed, and later, a styrofoam cup of chilacayota.
It had begun at noon, but by 2 PM, all that remained were branches of Bougainvillea, empty ollas (pots), ladles with nothing to dip into…
and empty cups.
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Carrizo, Casita Colibrí, deck, lampshades, Mexico, Oaxaca, pergola, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, shade structure, terrace on March 12, 2015| 5 Comments »
Two weeks ago, we returned to San Juan Guelavía to pick up my new custom-made lampshades. Again, Teresa and her family welcomed us with open arms. A couple of plastic chairs were positioned in the shade under the tree and Dulce, Teresa’s daughter, snuggled up beside me, as abuela and abuelo continued working.
Teresa briefly disappeared, but soon re-emerged, from the gate hidden in the carrizo fence, carrying my new hand-woven carrizo lampshades! After many oohs and aahs, expressions of “muchisimas gracias” by me over and over, and big smiles all around, blogger buddy Chris posed us for the requisite photo-op.
After paying for my new treasures and many more “many thanks,” shades were put in the trunk and we slid into the front seats of the car, and headed back to the city. Once home, I called Cristian, my electrician and scheduled the installation of the lampshades. The smaller was hung outside my front door…
and the larger beneath the pergola on the terrace.
I love how the light glows through the finely woven carrizo. I’m a very satisfied customer!
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Economics, History, Holidays, Labor, Travel & Tourism, tagged Día de la Mujer, Día Internacional de la Mujer, equal rights, Inequality in Charts, International Women's Day, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, women on March 8, 2015| 5 Comments »
March 8 is International Women’s Day — established by V. I. Lenin in 1922 (I’ll wager this is news to most), revived by women in the USA in 1968, and recognized by the United Nations in 1975. We may have come a long way, but the struggle for equal rights, respect, freedom from violence, and control of our own bodies continues.
However, the hard work, warmth, strength, creativity, and dignity of the women of Oaxaca continues to inspire me.
¡Feliz día internacional de la mujer! But, as news around the world and the Inequality in Charts reminds us, LA LUCHA CONTINÚA…
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Parks & Plazas, Travel & Tourism, tagged Basilica de la Soledad, celebrations, Día del Barrendero, garbage collectors, garbage trucks, marmotas, Mexico, monos, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Sindicato Independiente 3 de Marzo, street sweepers, toritos, Virgen de La Soledad on March 5, 2015| 6 Comments »
Tuesday morning, from the plaza in front of the Basilica de la Soledad, the sound of speeches, music, and explosions announced Día del Barrendero — a day celebrating the founding of the Sindicato Independiente 3 de Marzo. These are the street sweepers, garbage collectors, and laborers of Oaxaca.
Earlier in the morning, a procession brought union members, their families, and friends from Cinco Señores to the Basílica, where a special mass was celebrated to honor the patron saint of Oaxaca, la Virgen de la Soledad. Raul, a lifelong street sweeper whose work day begins at 3 AM, is quoted as explaining, “We have to thank our mother, the Virgin of Soledad, for the blessings every day gives us.”
March 3rd — brought to you by the gals and guys who keep the city clean.
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Casita Colibrí, clay sculpture, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos on March 3, 2015| Leave a Comment »
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Education, Parks & Plazas, Travel & Tourism, tagged clowns, high heels, Lent, Llano Park, Mexico, musicians, Oaxaca, Paseo de los Viernes de Cuaresma, payasos, photographs, photos, shoes, students, tacones, Viernes del Llano on February 27, 2015| 4 Comments »
Fridays during Lent must mean the “only in Oaxaca,” Paseos Florales del Llano or Viernes del Llano, the Friday pageant through Llano Park by young female preparatoria (high school) students and their spear, oops, I mean flower, carriers.
Some will teeter on spiky heels (tacones, en español); others will opt for the less sexy, safer, maybe even edgy, and definitely more comfortable “flats” look.
According to this article, there was a tradition in Oaxaca to pay homage to women — to honor them for the important role they play in the support of the family. The ritual died out, but was resurrected in the seventies by the Universidad Autónoma Benito Juárez de Oaxaca (UABJO) to recover religious and family values. And so, for five Friday mornings during Lent, action in Oaxaca centers in Llano Park. Along with the young women, there will be fans…
and bands…
Monos and clowns.
But the stars of the show are the young women; this Friday from Preparatoria 6. They ranged from the natural to the glamorous.
There are winners — I think based on the number of flowers they collect from their friends, families, and fans. However, in what seems to be a popularity contest, there is joy and sisterhood expressed by all; that is where their beauty shines through.
If you are in Oaxaca, or will be in Oaxaca in the next few weeks, check it out for yourself.
Please note, the early start! I arrived around 8:15 AM and, unlike previous years, couldn’t get close to the paseo. Chris at Oaxaca-The Year After rolled in at 9 AM and it was all over but the posing, departures, and detritus.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Education, People, Politics, Protests, Tragedy, Travel & Tourism, Violence, tagged Ayotzinapa, Cristian Tomás Colón Garnica, Escuela Normal Rural Raúl Isidro Burgos, Guerrero, Mexico, murals, Normal Rural Ayotzinapa, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, street art, students, teachers’ college, Tlacolula de Matamoros, wall art on February 26, 2015| 2 Comments »
It’s been five months since 43 students from the Escuela Normal Rural Raúl Isidro Burgos teachers’ college in Ayotzinapa, Guerrero went missing. Their parents, the people of Mexico, and growing numbers around the world continue to ask, Who is Really Responsible?
A mural recently appeared along a very long wall at the entrance to Tlacolula de Matamoros.
As I’ve previously mentioned, one of missing is Cristian Tomás Colón Garnica from Tlacolula de Matamoros.
I realized, as I was processing the photos, each panel of the mural incorporates a letter. One has to stand back (in the street) to see words materialize. However, when we went back to Tlacolula on Sunday, there were cars and trucks parked in front of most of the mural and all we could see was, “Vivos 43.” I would love to hear from you, if you know the full text.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Protests, Textiles, Travel & Tourism, tagged Afromexicanos, bote, Campesinas, costumes, Día de la Bandera, demonstrations, Devil's Dance, FOSCUPT, Integrantes del Frente de Organizaciones Sociales, march, Mexico, Oaxaca, Pesqueras y del Transporte, photographs, photos, protests, traje San Pablo Tijaltepec, Urbanas on February 25, 2015| 2 Comments »
Yesterday was Día de la Bandera (Flag Day) in Mexico. Hmmm, I don’t think these were the flags they had in mind…
The flags that were flying on the streets of Oaxaca were those carried by the members of the Integrantes del Frente de Organizaciones Sociales, Campesinas, Urbanas, Pesqueras y del Transporte (FOSCUPT), an umbrella group of more than forty social organizations, peasants, urban workers, fishers, and transport workers. Thousands marched from the Fuente de las Ocho Regiones (Fountain of the 8 Regions) to the zócalo. Besides flags, there were banners and burros…
And Devils Dance street theater from an Afromexicano group, probably from the Costa Chica.
After marching and playing for miles, the destination was reached; the bote player took a break and gals from San Pablo Tijaltepec went and got something to drink.
According to this article, the mobilization was to reject bad structural policies and funding cuts being made in the peasant sector and requesting the federal government turn their eyes to Oaxaca. In addition, Jesus Romero López, leader of FOSCUPT, among other demands, called for justice for the social and political leaders who have been killed and for better urban planning, stating that the city is growing in a disorganized way, often resulting in neighborhoods with no water, electricity, or paved streets.
Posted in Culture, Food, Markets, Travel & Tourism, tagged enchiladas, food, market day, markets, meat, mercados, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Tlacolula de Matamoros on February 23, 2015| Leave a Comment »
If it’s Sunday, it must be market day in Tlacolula de Matamoros.
Women doing their marketing, and the men who follow.
Carne, right off the hoof, for the carnivores.
And, delicious dining for all!
Another delightful domingo in Oaxaca.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Music, Transportation, Travel & Tourism, tagged automobiles, Black and white photography, Black Limousine, boda, cars, limousine, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, Rolling Stones lyrics, weddings on February 20, 2015| 2 Comments »
We used to ride, baby
Ride around in limousines 
We looked so fine, baby
You in white and me in green
Drinking and dancing
All inside and crazy dream
Well now look at your face now baby
Look at you and look at me
We used to shine, shine, shine, shine
Say what a pair, say what a team
We used to ride, ride, ride, ride
In a long [white] limousine*
Saturday is wedding day in Oaxaca.
*Lyrics from Black Limousine by the Rolling Stones.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Carnaval, Carnival, devils, Fat Tuesday, Mardi Gras, mascaras, masks, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, San Martín Tilcajete, wood carving on February 18, 2015| 4 Comments »
Carnaval in San Martín Tilcajete means devils…
Pirates and clowns…
Unknown creatures from the imaginative minds of their creators…
And these masterpieces from this village known for its wood carving…
Carnaval in San Martín Tilcajete also means men dressed as women, a mock wedding, and young men covered in motor oil running through the village with belts of cowbells ringing. Stay tuned…
Posted in Music, Science & Nature, Travel & Tourism, Weather, tagged Both Sides Now lyrics, clouds, Joni Mitchell, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos on February 16, 2015| 14 Comments »
Rows and flows of angel hair
And ice cream castles in the air
And feather canyons everywhere
I’ve looked at clouds that way.
— Both Sides Now by Joni Mitchell.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged Day of Love and Friendship, Día del Amor y la Amistad, hearts, Mexico, music, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Trio Santo Domingo, Valentine's Day, video on February 14, 2015| 2 Comments »
February 14th isn’t just a day for lovers. In Mexico, it is known as the Día del Amor y la Amistad (Day of Love and Friendship). Oaxaca’s balloon, chocolate, and flower vendors do a booming business and restaurants are usually filled to capacity with friends, sweethearts, and families.
I fell in love with Oaxaca the first time I saw her when visiting a friend in 2007. Who wouldn’t when the guitars and harmonies of Trio Santo Domingo drew us to the zócalo on a balmy August evening! Thus, my gift to you on this day of love and friendship:
“La amistad es lluvia de flores preciosas” (Friendship is like a shower of precious flowers) — line from a Nahuatl poem.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Carrizo, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, San Juan Guelavia on February 10, 2015| 5 Comments »
Sunday, we returned to San Juan Guelavía, in search of Teresa, the gal from last week’s post about the Feria del Carrizo. With her address, family name, and measurements in hand, I was hoping to commission her to make a couple of lampshades for me. However, there are no detailed street maps for these small villages, so we had to rely on the tried and true, stopping to ask for directions, method.
Outside the church (which, for some reason, was closed this week) we asked, “Where is calle 5 de mayo?” This is a village with a population of less than 3,000 people, thus the reply, “Who are you looking for?” We said, “Teresa.” He responded, “She makes baskets?” Us, “Yes.” Him, “Hmmm… which family?” Fumbling with my notes, I came up with, “Hipolito!” “Ahhh, sí!”
Then directions rapidly cascaded from his mouth to our ears. They included many derechos, derechas, a puente, and dos tienditas. All of this was in Spanish and we turned to each other and asked, “Did you get all that?” We concurred, probably 80%. Hey, we’re getting better at this. Of course, we made a wrong turn or two, went too far south on 5 de mayo, and had to ask a few more people along the way, but eventually we found it!
On the right side of the dirt road, heading south, there is a painted number 46 slightly visible on concrete pole. It made sense that #48 might be behind the Mini Super and so we pulled in and began walking to the back.
People began materializing and we kept repeating, “Teresa.” Then, there she was, emerging from sitting under a tree, recognizing us from last week, and smiling broadly! Immediately, two chairs were brought out and placed in the shade for us. The warm and welcoming hospitality of Oaxaqueños is something to behold.
It’s a family business and once Teresa and I had worked out the size and shape for the two lampshades, the littlest guy above, brought out a small basket with a 15 peso price sticker. I asked him if he had made it, and he very proudly nodded “yes.” Needless to say, I couldn’t resist.
We will return in ten days to pick up my new lampshades and, perhaps, make a few other purchases.
Mexican Peso Converter
View From Casita Colibrí 