February 10, 2019 by spixl
When I’m in el norte, I usually turn down invitations to eat at Mexican restaurants. However, over the years, I’ve learned to follow the advice of the late great Nat King Cole and “I’ll never say ‘never again’ again.” Thus, last month, on a stormy Friday at the height of northbound commute traffic, my stepson, his wife, and I ventured up to Yountville, in the heart of Northern California’s wine country, to try out La Calenda, the newly opened Oaxaca inspired restaurant by Michelin star chef Thomas Keller.
I admit, I was extremely leery of this project when I first learned of it. In fact, upon reading an article in the SF Chronicle, I wrote on Facebook, “Hmmm… How about using his celebrity and empire to help finance one of the numerous talented Oaxacan chefs to open a Oaxacan restaurant in Yountville?” Little did I know that Keller had made inquiries in Oaxaca and wound up hiring Kaelin Trilling as the executive chef. Kaelin is the born-and-raised-in-Oaxaca son of cookbook author, cooking instructor, and Oaxaca resident, Susana Trilling. A good start and so I jumped at the chance to give it a try.
Flavorful and picante salsas, fresh guacamole, and crispy warm totopos.
The menu features traditional Oaxacan cuisine, but also includes nods to other regions of Mexico. I have to say, they had me at the tortillas!
Tacos al Pastor – a Lebanese-Mexican dish that has become traditional in Central Mexico.
Sourcing corn from Mexico and nixtamalizing it on-site, the blue corn tortillas, handmade and hot off the comal, brought me right back to Oaxaca.
Tacos de carnitas – pork, cilantro, onions, with a squeeze or two of lime.
Oh, and did I mention the black mole? Silky smooth, with the rich complex flavors I have come to love and appreciate. Though we didn’t order the braised beef cheek in mole chichilo, we asked for a taste, which was promptly provided. I explained to my family that this Oaxacan mole is made from chilhuacle negro, mulatto, and pasilla chiles; blackened tortillas and seeds of the chiles; and avocado leaves, the latter imparting a subtle anise flavor. It is only served on special occasions, such as weddings, christenings, and when the crops have been harvested, etc. It was delicious and, as they should be, the flavors were multilayered. Next time…
Pollo (chicken) in mole negro.
Everything on the menu tempted us and we ordered way more food than I thought we could possibly eat — but it was so good, we did! (Photos are only a sample of what the three of us tucked into.) And, the mezcal cocktails we ordered certainly got the evening off to a delightful start!
Traditional flan with caramel sauce — creamy, smooth, and divine!
When we went to La Calenda, I was nearing the end of a month-long visit in el norte and the sight of barro rojo (red clay) bowls from Oaxaca and glassware from Xaquixe Glass (the same glasses that sit on my Casita Colibrí kitchen shelf), along with the smells and flavors, had tears welling up, as a wave of homesickness came over me. But, then it passed and the joy of feeling “at home” even in Yountville, California set in. And, more good news: The prices, were extremely reasonable for the quality and location — in the ballpark of upscale restaurants in Oaxaca, as opposed to upscale in the San Francisco Bay Area.
Seeing stars at the entrance to La Calenda.
(ps) Though I’ve had this blog post in the hopper for a few weeks (ever since my return to Oaxaca), it was the recent article by food writer, Cristina Potters, The Traditional Mexican Kitchen :: Is It Authentic, or What?, that prompted me to finish and post it. La Calenda can definitely be described as having its roots in the traditional.
Posted in Food, People, Restaurants, Travel & Tourism | Tagged California, Kaelin Ulrich Trilling, La Calenda restaurant, Mexico, Oaxaca, Oaxacan cuisine, photos, restaurant, Thomas Keller, tortillas, traditional cuisine, Yountville | 4 Comments »
February 8, 2019 by spixl
Colorful but creaky carnival rides with familiar figures for the kiddos always seem to be a part of fairs and festivals in Oaxaca.
These from the Feria del Carrizo in San Juan Guelavía.
Posted in Travel & Tourism | Tagged Buzz Lightyear, carnival rides, Cars ride, Feria del Carrizo, Hello Kitty, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, San Juan Guelavia, teacup ride | Leave a Comment »
February 3, 2019 by spixl
Friday, February first, the opening of the Museo Textil de Oaxaca expo-venta (show and sale) beckoned. Textiles from the Yucatán, Veracruz, Puebla, the State of Mexico, Michoacán, and (of course) Oaxaca filled tables and display racks. It’s hard not to feel overwhelmed by the color and beauty and workmanship, but I’m learning. I take my time, make several rounds of the booths, and then see what calls me back.
So, what did I return to? The rebozos (shawls) from Ahuirán, Michoacán.
And, what did I buy? One of their traditional black and blue cotton and rayon rebozos.
Then there was Khadi Oaxaca — “a social-entrepreneur initiative that supports the village of San Sebastian Rio Hondo, Oaxaca, Mexico, to economically develop in a sustainable way.” They spin, dye, and weave coyuche — a brownish cotton grown in Oaxaca and, working with designers, fashion modern takes on this traditional cloth. They even sell bolts of fabric so you can design your own!
What called out to me? A lovely huipil with a subtle, but intricate, design. I love the way the natural color of the coyuche takes the dye.
I also kept coming came back to the stall filled with the spectacular textiles from San Bartolomé Ayutla, Oaxaca. Alas (or, thank goodness), I was out of money. Next time…
The expo-venta runs through tomorrow (Feb. 4) on the patio of Centro Cultural San Pablo, next door to the Museo Textil de Oaxaca.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Textiles, Travel & Tourism | Tagged coyuche, expo-venta, huipil, indigenous textiles, Khadi Oaxaca, Mexico, Museo Textil de Oaxaca, Oaxaca, photos, rebozos, shawls, Textile Museum of Oaxaca | 3 Comments »
February 2, 2019 by spixl
The zócalo is a sea of red today. It is the 38th anniversary of the founding of the Movimiento Unificador de Lucha Triqui (MULT) — one of the organizations of Triqui from the Mixteca Baja region of Oaxaca. They have come to (yet again) present their demands to the government.
For background (in English) on the plight of the Triqui in Oaxaca and the many who have been forced by violence in their communities to migrate to California, check out David Bacon’s article, Can the Triquis Go Home? Unfortunately, I don’t think much has changed since it was written in 2012.
Posted in Culture, History, Politics, Protests, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Can the Triquis Go Home? article, David Bacon, huipil, indigenous peoples, Mexico, Movimiento Unificador de Lucha Triqui (MULT), Oaxaca, photos, red, Triqui | Leave a Comment »
January 30, 2019 by spixl
On Sunday in San Juan Guelavía for the Feria del Carrizo in the municipal plaza, the sounds of a procession drew me next door to the church.
A procession! I’m not sure if the occasion had anything to to with patron saint, San Juan Bautista. However, what I do know is that I love being surprised and delighted by Oaxaca — a place I am proud to now call home.
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Travel & Tourism | Tagged candles, Feria del Carrizo, festivals, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, procession, San Juan Guelavia, velas | Leave a Comment »
January 28, 2019 by spixl
Yesterday took us to San Juan Guelavía for the eighth annual Feria del Carrizo. I missed it last year (I was up in el norte) and it was good to be back. The feria just keeps getting bigger and better and its continued success is good news for the community. And, I got to reconnect with Teresa Hipolito who wove two lampshades for me in 2015!
Because plastic baskets have gained popularity as the shopping basket of choice, the village saw a severe decline in the demand for their handcrafted baskets made from carrizo (Arundo donax, Spanish cane, Giant cane, Wild Cane, and Colorado River weed) — a tall perennial cane that grows along river banks in Oaxaca.
Baskets woven from carrizo have been used as carriers and storage bins since before the Spanish set foot on the soil that became Mexico. Thus, San Juan Guelavía decided to hold a fair to help rescue the craft of weaving their beautiful and traditionally utilitarian creations from carrizo and give a much-needed boost to the economy.
Besides baskets and bird cages, the artisans have branched out to weaving lampshades, decorative bottle covers (they make great gifts, especially when filled with mezcal), fashioning toys, earrings, and much more.
As with most ferias and special events in Oaxaca, there was music, folkloric dance groups from schools in the area, craft vendors from nearby villages, mouthwatering food…
… and absolutely adorable children.
In a village of about three thousand, there are currently about thirty families who work with carrizo — that’s a large percentage of the population! And, the very good news is that the skills and pride are being passed down to the younger generation.
The fair is held the last Sunday of January and the first Sunday of February. If you missed it yesterday, it is definitely worth a visit next Sunday — perhaps on your way to or from Tlacolula’s weekly market. San Juan Guelavía is about 40 minutes east of the city. By the way, there are a couple of workshops along the road that leads into town that are also worth a stop.
(ps) For more cute kids photos from the feria, see Oaxaca-The Year After.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism | Tagged baskets, canastas, Fairs, Feria del Carrizo, festivals, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, San Juan Guelavia | 5 Comments »
January 26, 2019 by spixl
If it’s Saturday, it must be wedding day in Oaxaca.
They are scheduled one right after another at several of the churches, especially those on Macedonio Alcalá (the walking street).
As a result, there is a lot of waiting by the wedding parties, bands, and monos.
All dressed up with someplace to go!
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Travel & Tourism | Tagged bands, Mexico, monos, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, weddings | 6 Comments »
January 21, 2019 by spixl
How lucky can a gal get?
On day five back in Oaxaca, a last-minute invitation found me venturing behind an unassuming red iron door at Libertad 24, San Antonino Castillo Velasco and being greeted by welcoming figures of all shapes and sizes gathered throughout a large earthen courtyard.
This is the home and workshop of Grand Maestro, José García Antonio, also known as the blind potter.
Losing his sight to glaucoma, he continues to sculpt sensual and evocative figures from the local barro (clay).
He was married to his beloved wife, Santa Teresita Mendoza Reyna Sanchez, in 1987.
Her face and body are etched in his memory and continue to provide a model for many of his female figures.
The twinkle in those all-seeing sightless eyes and the artistry in those gifted hands give form and life to his creations in clay.
“It would seem that the hearts of the potters of Oaxaca are made of clay. Their emotions, intuitions, joys, fears and fantasies flow through their bloodstream until arriving at the hands which knead the clay and, as if by magic, transform it into exquisite ceramic sculptures.” (quoted from “The Great Masters of Mexican Folk Art.”)
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism | Tagged art, artisans, José García Antonio, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, San Antonino Castillo Velasco, sculptures | 14 Comments »
January 18, 2019 by spixl
Day one back in Oaxaca…
Warm sun, blue sky, and rocking horses parked on Calle de Mariano Abasolo.
Vendor from Puebla with a truck full of dramatic wooden dancing horses from Zacatecas.
It’s good to be home!
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism | Tagged artesania, carved horses, dancing horses, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, rocking horses, street scenes | 4 Comments »
January 11, 2019 by spixl
On November 30, I went to the opening of the Bajo la bóveda azul cobalto/Under the Cobalt Blue Sky exhibition at the Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Oaxaca (MACO) — an innovative collaboration that paired thirteen visual artists from the USA and France with thirteen local artisan families. It was a fabulous and jam-packed event infused with the energy of conversation and creativity. Unfortunately, with so many people in attendance, seeing the art was challenging and I vowed to return.
Running into weaver Antonio Lazo Hernández, brother-in-law of Porfirio Gutiérrez Contreras, when I was in Teotitlán del Valle for the first day of the Virgen de Guadalupe festivities, gave me the nudge I needed to make time to actually see the show before leaving for my el norte trip. At the opening, I hadn’t even realized that Porfirio and his family (Antonio, Juana Gutiérrez Contreras, and Javier Lazo Gutiérrez) had been paired with Peter Liashkov to create a piece for the exhibition.
“The ability to leap freely about our imagery without any constraints” — Peter Liashkov
Their collaboration explored the story of the Danza de la Pluma — linking images of the Danza de la Pluma Promesa 2016-2018 danzantes to symbols used in the dance. They even incorporated the well-worn sandals of the dancers.
I couldn’t help thinking of the poem, Judge Softly, urging us all to,
Just walk a mile in his moccasins
Before you abuse, criticize and accuse.
If just for one hour, you could find a way
To see through his eyes, instead of your own muse.
“From the dialogue between our two cultures, we were able to make the references to diversification and syncretism visible, where there is always a cultural responsibility joined with a tragic story… something tragic for some and good for others… it produces new dialogues” — Porfirio Gutiérrez Contreras
Bajo la bóveda azul cobalto/Under the Cobalt Blue Sky runs through the end of February. There are twelve other amazing collaborations that demonstrate “what can happen when we accept our differences and our similarities; it is an example of coexistence under the same blanket of stars.” If you are in town, it is a show not to be missed.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, People, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Antonio Lazo Hernández, art exhibitions, Biliee, Cat's Cradle, Danza de la Pluma, danzantes, exhibits, Javier Lazo Gutiérrez, Juana Gutiérrez, La cuna del gato, MACO, Mexico, Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Oaxaca, museums, Oaxaca, Peter Liashkov, photos, plantón, Porfirio Gutiérrez Contreras, Teotitlán del Valle | 2 Comments »
Looking back, it seems appropriate that I welcomed 2018 under the watchful eye of Cerro Picacho, Quie Guia Betz in Zapotec, that looms above Teotitlán del Valle — a mountain sacred to her people and where they make a pilgrimage to the top on Día de la Santa Cruz (Day of the Holy Cross).
January 1, 2018
And then said farewell to 2018 in my Mill Valley hometown at the foot of Mount Tamalpais, the “Sleeping Lady” — mountain of my childhood dreams, teen driving lessons, and place of retreat.
December 31, 2018
Two of my favorite places in the world — mountains that never cease to bring me a sense of peace, joy, and renewal.
Posted in Culture, Geography, Travel & Tourism | Tagged California, Cerro Picacho, El Picacho, Mexico, Mill Valley, Mount Tamalpais, mountains, Mt. Tamalpais, Oaxaca, photos, Quie Guia Betz, sacred mountain, Teotitlán del Valle | 4 Comments »
December 30, 2018 by spixl
Looking back and appreciating life in Oaxaca, 2018.
January – View through the terrace pistachio tree of full Wolf Moon.
February – Guest helping to harvest Waje dinner at Rancho 314 urban farm in Santa Cruz Xoxocotlán.
March – Reyna Mendoza Ruiz demonstrating metate technique at El Sabor Zapoteco cooking class in Teotitlán del Valle.
April – Pit for cooking agave piñas to make mezcal at the palenque of Faustino Garcia in San Baltazar Chichicapa(m).
June – Summer afternoon on the Zócalo in Oaxaca city.
July – Feria del Barro Rojo in San Marcos Tlapazola.
September – Protest by students from the Escuela Normal Bilingüe e Intercultural de Oaxaca.
October – Celebrating el Señor del Rayo at the Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción.
November – At the home/workshop of filigree maestro, José Jorge García García.
December – Pop-up sale in Oaxaca city by the Las Sanjuaneras weavers from San Juan Colorado.
Feliz año nuevo y muchisimas gracias to all my wonderful blog readers from near and far! Thank you for reading, for commenting, for sharing, for the opportunity to meet some of you, and for inspiring me to continue. Onward to 2019!!!
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Año Nuevo, aprons, Cathedral, ceramic pottery, cooking school, El Sabor Zapoteco, ENBIA, Feria del Barro Rojo, full moon, Fundación En Via, girls, jewelry, José Jorge García García, Las Sanjuaneras, mandiles, Mexico, mezcal, microfinance tours, murals, New Year's Eve, Oaxaca, Palenque, photos, pistachio tree, protests, Rancho 314, Reyna Mendoza Ruiz, San Baltazar Chichicapam, San Juan Colorado, San Marcos Tlapazola, San Miguel del Valle, Señor del Rayo, textiles, Tlacolula de Matamoros, Tlacolulokos, urban farms, Waje, weavers, zócalo | 10 Comments »
December 24, 2018 by spixl
‘Tis Christmas Eve and I’m in el norte. A light snow is falling and all are excited.
Ornaments from Oaxaca hang alongside those passed down through four generations — and the newly collected continue the one-new-ornament-a-year tradition.
My grandson is keeping a close eye on Santa’s progress around the globe. While awaiting the arrival of our late night visitor, it is time for Ernie Villarreal’s version of Pancho Claus by Chicano music legend, Eduardo “Lalo” Guerrero.
Pancho Claus
‘Twas the night before Christmas and all through la casa
Not a creature was stirring, Caramba! ¿Que pasa?
Los ninos were all tucked away in their camas,
Some in vestidos and some in pajamas.
While Mama worked late in her little cocina,
El viejo was down at the corner cantina.
The stockings were hanging con mucho cuidado,
In hopes that St. Nicholas would feel obligado
To bring all the children, both buenos y malos,
A Nice batch of dulces and other regalos.
Outside in the yard, there arouse such a grito,
That I jumped to my feet, like a frightened cabrito.
I went to the window and looked out afuera,
And who in the world, do you think que era?
Saint Nick in a sleigh and a big red sombrero
Came dashing along like a crazy bombero!
And pulling his sleigh instead of venados,
Were eight little burros approaching volados.
I watched as they came, and this little hombre
Was shouting and whistling and calling by nombre.
¡Ay, Pancho! ¡Ay, Pepe! ¡Ay, Cuca! ¡Ay, Beto!
¡Ay, Chato!
¡¡Ay, Chopo! ¡Maruca and ¡Nieto!
Then standing erect with his hand on his pecho
He flew to the top of our very own techo.
With his round little belly like a bowl of jalea,
He struggled to squeeze down our old chimenea.
Then huffing and puffing, at last in our sala,
With soot smeared all over his red suit de gala.
He filled the stockings with lovely regalos,
For none of the children had been very malos.
Then chuckling aloud and seeming contento,
He turned like a flash and was gone like the viento.
And I heard him exclaim and this is VERDAD,
Merry Christmas to all, And to All ¡Feliz Navidad!
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Music, Travel & Tourism | Tagged 'Twas the Night Before Christmas, Christmas decorations, Christmas ornaments, Christmas traditions, Eduardo Guerrero, Ernie Villarreal, Mexico, Oaxaca, Pancho Claus, photos, poem, popular travel destinations | 9 Comments »
December 22, 2018 by spixl
It’s December 22 and in Oaxaca that means it’s Noche de Rábanos eve. Despite the name, it’s not just about radishes. Tomorrow morning, on tables lining the Zócalo, radishes will be carved and arranged, totomoxtle (corn husk) figures will be staged, and flor inmortal (dried flowers) scenes will be set. Beginning in the early afternoon and lasting late into the night, residents and visitors will parade along elevated walkways to view the detailed and fantastical creations on display in this only-in-Oaxaca holiday event.
These aren’t your grandparents radishes; they are a variety that is specially cultivated for their starring role — sometimes growing to 20 inches long and weighing in at 7 pounds. Alas, I’m in el norte spending the holidays with my family. So, I will just have to look back through previous Noche de Rábanos blog posts to get into the radishy spirit.
FYI: Blogger buddy Chris will be there to record this year’s action, so be sure to check out Oaxaca- The Year After in the next couple of days.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Holidays, Travel & Tourism | Tagged dried corn husks, dried flowers, flor inmortal, Mexico, Night of the Radishes, Noche de Rabanos, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, Totomoxtle | 4 Comments »
December 20, 2018 by spixl
Yes, I know, the Poinsettia is the unofficial red flowering plant of the Christmas season — in Mexico, it even shares the name for Christmas Eve, Nochebuena. However, there is another red flowering plant that provides holiday color this time of year, the Bottle Brush tree (genus, Callistemon).
On the rooftop, my container-planted Bottle Brush tree.
Any way you look at it, it brightens the day and brings a bit of Christmas cheer to the garden.
Bottle Brush, the other red of Christmas!
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Flora, Gardens, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Bottle Brush tree, Callistemon, Christmas season, garden, Mexico, Noche Buena, Nochebuena, Oaxaca, photos, red flowering plants, terrace garden, trees | 2 Comments »
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