A belated Happy 20th Birthday, Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Oaxaca!
As the theme of the birthday celebration on February 28th said, Say ‘Coma’ Twenty Times,
COMA, COMA, CO-MACO, MACO, MACO…
Come say, Feliz Cumpleaños MACO, in person!
Posted in Buildings, Celebrations, Culture, Exhibitions, Travel & Tourism, tagged Contemporary Art Museum of Oaxaca, MACO, Mexico, Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Oaxaca, numbers, Oaxaca, photographs, photos on May 4, 2012| 2 Comments »
A belated Happy 20th Birthday, Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Oaxaca!
As the theme of the birthday celebration on February 28th said, Say ‘Coma’ Twenty Times,
COMA, COMA, CO-MACO, MACO, MACO…
Come say, Feliz Cumpleaños MACO, in person!
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, tagged children, Children's Day, costumes, Día del Nino, kids, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, traje on April 30, 2012| 2 Comments »
When I was a child and asked, “If there is a Mother’s Day and a Father’s day, why isn’t there a Children’s Day?” My mother’s usual reply was, “Everyday is children’s day!” Hmmm… I never did buy her explanation, until I had kids of my own. However, here in Mexico, there is a day to celebrate children and today is that day — Día del Niño, a day when children are made to feel special.
Schools organize parties with games and treats instead of lessons, parents may give their niños y niñas gifts, and special community activities for kids are organized. Yesterday, here in the city, the Service Workers Union threw an all day party for 5,000 children in the annex of the Eduardo Vasconcelos baseball stadium. There were box lunches, candy (of course), a petty zoo, games, shows, and even a raffle for new bicycles.
So, here’s to the girls and boys of Oaxaca…
To their good humor.
Their pride in celebrating their communities…
Their beauty…
Their amazing patience…
Even when they are shy and tired.
And, especially to the street children, who, despite the challenges of their lives, seem to find ways to “just be kids.”
Posted in Culture, Markets, Travel & Tourism, tagged costumes, cotton aprons, Festival de la Nieve Mezcal y Vinagre, graffiti, market, mercado, Mexico, Oaxaca, The Pop-up Food Shops of Oaxaca, tianguis, Tlacolula de Matamoros, traje, wall art on April 27, 2012| 3 Comments »
Every time I pass by the turnoff to Tlacolula de Matamoros, I break into song, “Be-bop-a-lula, she’s my baby.” And, seeing this guy on the front of a building on one of the town’s main streets only contributes to channeling Gene Vincent.
I was last there early this month for the first Festival de la Nieve, Mezcal y Vinagre. Ice cream, mezcal, and fruit and veggies in vinegar… what’s not to like?
And then there is the weekly Sunday tianguis (market), where women in colorfully embroidered cotton aprons over tightly pleated polyester brocade skirts (where did that style come from?) buy and sell everything under the sun.
As the article, The Pop-up Food Shops of Oaxaca confirms, I’m not the only one who is captivated by Tlacolula.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, History, Holidays, tagged 480th anniversary, birthday, celebrations, fireworks, fuegos artificiales, Happy Birthday Oaxaca, history, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos on April 25, 2012| Leave a Comment »
Tonight, instead of candles…
Fuegos artificiales exploded from the Alameda de León…
As Oaxaca celebrated her 480th birthday!
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, History, Holidays, tagged 480th anniversary, calendas, celebrations, Happy Birthday Oaxaca, history, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos on April 25, 2012| Leave a Comment »
Today is Oaxaca’s 480th birthday as a colonial city . Of course, among other events, a calenda (parade) marked the date.
In 1532 Spanish settlers (their bloody way paved by Hernán Cortés and his conquistadores) successfully petitioned the Queen of Spain for a land grant of 1 square league. The colonists had already established their own town on the site of Huaxyacac, renamed it Antequera (after an old Roman city in Spain) and received a Royal Charter from King Charles I of Spain.
However, Cortés had successfully gotten the entire Valley of Oaxaca (hundreds of thousands of acres) declared as his own private marquisate and, his greed knowing no bounds, kept trying to evict the colonial townspeople. By obtaining the queen’s charter, this end-run around Cortés insured the rights of the townspeople to the land.
Thus, April 25th continues to be celebrated as Oaxaca’s birthday. ¡Feliz Cumpleaños!
Posted in Animals, Creativity, Culture, History, Parks & Plazas, Places, tagged art, Benito Juárez, bullfighting, Corrida de Toros, Mexico, Oaxaca, Plaza de la Danza, public art on April 24, 2012| Leave a Comment »
…fighting in Oaxaca.
Corrida de Toros, as it is known in Mexico, was outlawed by, then governor of Oaxaca, Benito Juárez. The ban was instituted throughout Mexico in 1867 by Juárez during his presidency. Some say it was to “civilize” Mexico, but others contend it was for nationalistic reasons, as bullfighting had been a legacy of the Spanish conquest. I tend to think the latter tipped the scales.
However, Porfirio Díaz reinstated it during his presidency, but the ban remained in Oaxaca in honor of her favorite son. And thus, on the Plaza de la Danza, we have only a paper mache bull ready to charge at his shadow…
and serve as a canvas for imagery, ancient and contemporary.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, tagged calenda, Children's Guelaguetza, Costa, costume, culture, Guelaguetza, Infantil Guelaguetza, Istmo, Mexico, Mixteca, Oaxaca, Papaloapan, parade, penachos, photographs, photos, traditional regional dances, traje, Tuxtepec, Valles Centrales de Oaxaca on April 21, 2012| 6 Comments »
Friday was a delightful day… a late morning and early afternoon spent in leisurely conversation with one of my closest friends over desayuno at Cocina Economica Isabel, a stop at the Merced mercado to pick up some pan dulce, and a stroll through the Zócalo, before returning home. I envisioned a late afternoon and evening of visiting with my neighbor before she is heads north for a USA visit, catching up on email, and watching a movie. Perfection, I thought! Who could ask for more?
“More” came via my email inbox; notice of the 10th Guelaguetza Infantil, with a calenda (parade) from Santo Domingo de Guzmán to the Zócalo beginning at 6 PM. This definitely called for a change of plans! And, sure enough, as I got closer to Santo Domingo, there they were; delegations of children representing the regions of Oaxaca.
Istmo de Tehuantepec couple (a young Frida Kahlo, perhaps?) posing for photos.
There were several bands playing and it got a little too loud for this girl from the Istmo.
However this girl, representing the Papaloapan, didn’t seem to mind and was ready to toss candy to the crowd. She wasn’t alone — once the calenda started, candy began flying fast and furious and the pockets of the kids watching on the sidelines began bulging!
Girls from the Costa region received last-minute instructions.
Costa boys were charged with holding up their school banner.
The girls representing the Papaloapan clutched plastic pineapples, ready for the always popular Flor de Piña dance from Tuxtepec.
A little cross cultural comparing of notes (actually, cell phone games) was happening between the Istmo and Papaloapan.
All the while, the dancers from the Mixteca danced their way down the Álcala.
And, the young Danza de la Pluma danzantes, representing the Valles Centrales, carefully balanced their penachos (headdresses).
Tonight at 5 pm, these 300 kids from 52 preschools, will perform traditional regional dances in the auditorium of the Universidad Regional del Sureste, Rosario campus in San Sebastián Tutla.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Music, People, Protests, tagged Cuando Una Mujer Avanza, El Silencio Mata, entertainment, hip hop, indigenous peoples, Mare, Mexico, music, Oaxaca, video, When a Woman Takes a Step Forward, women, women's rights on April 19, 2012| 1 Comment »
Hip hop is probably not the first thing that pops to mind when you think of Oaxaca. However, I can assure you, there is more to Oaxaca than colonial architecture, religious processions, colorful traje (costume), and traditional music. As repeated blockades and occupations attest, and the El Silencio Mata posters illustrate, there are voices struggling to be heard.
For one of those voices, check out this trailer from the documentary film, Cuando Una Mujer Avanza (When a Woman Takes a Step Forward), about “Mare” a young Zapotec hip hop artist from Oaxaca. As the promo states, her unique life experience is a rarely heard perspective on life and community liberation. As an up and coming MC in a state known for popular and indigenous rebellion, Mare’s life and experience has been channeled into very powerful and conscious rapping and singing.
Update: Check out the article, Mare Is a Rapper Hell-Bent on Equality for Women in Mexico.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Museums, tagged art, Cultural Centre of Oaxaca, culture, henry david thoreau, Mexico, museum, Oaxaca, photo, photographs, Santo Domingo de Guzmán, seeing on April 18, 2012| Leave a Comment »
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Holidays, Music, Religion, tagged Carmen Alto, castillo, culture, Danza de la Pluma, Easter, fireworks, fuegos artificiales, Mexico, Oaxaca, Pascuas, photo, photographs, Semana Santa, toritos, travel, video on April 16, 2012| Leave a Comment »
It’s been a week since the end of Semana Santa and I’m still sorting through photos and videos and reflecting on impressions and feelings. However, I’m finding that, with too much thinking, the experience slips through the fingers and the magic vanishes.
Thus, I give you the night of Pascuas (Easter) at Carmen Alto…
And then, the hisses, bangs, and brilliant explosions of a castillo…
brought Semana Santa to a spectacular close.
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Holidays, tagged Christianity, culture, Domingo de Palmas, Holy Week, Mexico, offerings, palm crosses, Palm Sunday, photo, photographs, religion, San Antonino Castillo Velasco, Semana Santa on April 2, 2012| 7 Comments »
Yesterday, I spent another magical day with friends in San Antonino Castillo Velasco (about 23 miles/1 hour from the the city). It was Domingo de Palmas (Palm Sunday) and San Antonino celebrates in its own unique, warm, and welcoming way.
Townspeople gather in the cemetery to decorate the “Señor del Burrito” with fruit, vegetables, flowers, and everything they sell or grow during the year. In addition, livestock (goats, chickens, pigs, etc.), more foodstuffs, flowers, etc. are gathered and priced. The pastor of the parish church arrives to bless the “Lord of the Little Burro” and offerings. Palm crosses are distributed, all are invited to help carry the offerings to the church, 10-12 men hoist the burro (now laden up to his neck and weighing who knows what!), and a procession to the church commences, lead by a fast-tempo drum beat and punctuated by shouts warning the men carrying “Señor del Burrito” of upcoming topes (speed bumps) and telephone wires, which must be navigated.
At the church, “Señor del Burrito” has an honored place in the courtyard and the offerings are gathered and arranged. Many then attend an hour-long mass inside the church, while others partake in yummy amarillo and pork empanadas, taste mezcal, and browse the wares of the artisan booths. By the way, at least two of the “maestros” from the new, previously mentioned, book, Grandes Maestros del Arte Popular de Oaxaca were present: Familia García Mendoza (ceramics) and Antonina Cornelio, who makes the exquisitely embroidered clothing typical of San Antonino Castillo Velasco (and seen in one or two of the photos above). Following the mass, the offerings are sold, with the proceeds going to an orphanage in the village.
Muchisimas gracias to the people of San Antonino Castillo Velasco for being so gracious and allowing us to share this special day with them.
Posted in Buildings, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged buildings, Chiapas, Coyoacán, Federal District, Mexico, Mexico City, numbers, Oaxaca, San Cristóbal de las Casas, street numbers on March 29, 2012| Leave a Comment »
In Coyoacán, Federal District of Mexico City…
San Cristóbal de las Casas, Chiapas…
And Oaxaca…
The zeros have it!
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Politics, tagged graffiti, Mexico, Oaxaca, street art, wall art, women, women's rights on March 26, 2012| 5 Comments »
For a whole variety of reasons, this is so appropriate not just here, but…
all over the world…
And, given the current war on women’s hard won reproductive rights, it’s especially pertinent during this “election” season in the USA.
Silence does indeed kill!
Posted in Beverages, Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, tagged Agua de Jamaica, agua fresca, Chilacayota, Día de la Samaritana, Día de las Aguas, Good Samaritan day, Horchata, Lent, Mexico, Oaxaca on March 17, 2012| Leave a Comment »
…and, Agua de Jamaica, Horchata, and Chilacayota to drink! Yesterday, the 4th Friday of Lent, was Día de la Samaritana (Good Samaritan Day), an only in Oaxaca tradition.
Inspired by the Biblical story, in the Book of John, of the woman at the well who offered water to Jesus, long tables and small stands laden with massive containers and plastic cups are set up on sidewalks throughout the city by schools, churches, and businesses.
These “water stations” are decorated in purple, the color of Lent, symbolizing penance and royalty.
Crowds rapidly gather and wait to be served the agua of their choice and, despite hours of standing, ladling, and replenishing, all are served with a gracious smile and genuine joy.
By early afternoon the Alcalá was a sea of people.
This is definitely NOT a made for the tourist event.
This is Oaxaqueños practicing the sharing and hospitality that informs much of their culture.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, tagged Día de las Mujeres, International Women's Day, Mexico, Oaxaca, public art on March 9, 2012| 5 Comments »
Yesterday, having just posted Celebrating the Women of Oaxaca, I set off for my cataloging shift at the Oaxaca Lending Library. As I turned up the Alcalá, I was greeted by bevy of beautiful and colorful women in all shapes, sizes, and lifestyles — Oaxaca’s tribute to women on International Women’s Day. By the way, you can see in the distance in one of the photos, the Migrantes are still here.
Meanwhile, down at the Government Palace, the City Council recognized the history and contribution of 10 women conferring upon each a Distinguished Citizen award; Zapotec women demanded justice for the disappeared and prisoners; and several city workers dismissed over a year ago (according to them, without cause) held a protest demanding reinstatement.
Thus was International Women’s Day in Oaxaca!