Yesterday, I spent another magical day with friends in San Antonino Castillo Velasco (about 23 miles/1 hour from the the city). It was Domingo de Palmas (Palm Sunday) and San Antonino celebrates in its own unique, warm, and welcoming way.
Townspeople gather in the cemetery to decorate the “Señor del Burrito” with fruit, vegetables, flowers, and everything they sell or grow during the year. In addition, livestock (goats, chickens, pigs, etc.), more foodstuffs, flowers, etc. are gathered and priced. The pastor of the parish church arrives to bless the “Lord of the Little Burro” and offerings. Palm crosses are distributed, all are invited to help carry the offerings to the church, 10-12 men hoist the burro (now laden up to his neck and weighing who knows what!), and a procession to the church commences, lead by a fast-tempo drum beat and punctuated by shouts warning the men carrying “Señor del Burrito” of upcoming topes (speed bumps) and telephone wires, which must be navigated.
At the church, “Señor del Burrito” has an honored place in the courtyard and the offerings are gathered and arranged. Many then attend an hour-long mass inside the church, while others partake in yummy amarillo and pork empanadas, taste mezcal, and browse the wares of the artisan booths. By the way, at least two of the “maestros” from the new, previously mentioned, book, Grandes Maestros del Arte Popular de Oaxaca were present: Familia García Mendoza (ceramics) and Antonina Cornelio, who makes the exquisitely embroidered clothing typical of San Antonino Castillo Velasco (and seen in one or two of the photos above). Following the mass, the offerings are sold, with the proceeds going to an orphanage in the village.
Muchisimas gracias to the people of San Antonino Castillo Velasco for being so gracious and allowing us to share this special day with them.
Mexican Peso Converter
Wow, this is beautiful. I love the ornate way that the burro is packed to the gills with beautiful bundles of produce. I am in love with the amazing embroidery too. I recently have been self teaching myself to embroider, and have an amazing respect for the ornate patterns and the amount of effort that has to go into it. Wow.
Thanks so much Shannon for taking me to San Antonio on Palm Sunday again. I LOVE this celebration and the procession of ‘offerings’ coming from the grave yard to the church yard. I love the food/bread offerings carried artistically on the ladies heads. Such an outpouring of generosity so typical of the Oaxacan people. It’s also a food fest out in the zocalo (competition of Jello-molding?) and the time to buy some really find embroidered blouses/dresses. I was thinking about all this yesterday…and viola’ you posted this story.
Glad you liked the post. OMG, yes, they still have the molded jello… even corn in a husk! Didn’t buy any textiles… shopped out in Chiapas. Lanita was infirmed and didn’t come with, but has been eying the ropas from San Antonino on the Alcala. WHEN are you returning???
Too bad Lanita missed it – such a sweet event. Yes, about the molded jello – did they have the molded Corona bottles? I’ll be returning to Mexico the end of the year – but at that point will be ‘stationed’ in Chiapas for a few months – but of course will come to Oaxaca to visit. It seems like a long long time to be away from charming Mexico.
Sheri, I might just have to make a return trip to Chiapas while you are there! Abrazos, amiga.
what’s this about jello molds?
Bev in Connecticut
Yep, jello molds in the shape of various fruits and veggies, including corn in a husk… milky pale yellow and actually made with corn. Chris has a shot of one of the more standard varieties on his blog. Next year, will definitely make them a priority! Hope you are both well.