To borrow from Meredith Willson, it’s beginning to look a lot like Muertos…
Everywhere you go.
No “five and tens” here…
Just a street stall set up in Tlacolula de Matamoros.
Beginning to shop for my Día de Muertos ofrenda.
Archive for the ‘Creativity’ Category
It’s beginning to look a lot like…
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Markets, Travel & Tourism, tagged calacas, calaveras, Día de los Muertos, decorations, Mexico, Oaxaca, ofrendas, photographs, photos, sugar skulls, Tlacolula de Matamoros on October 27, 2015| 6 Comments »
Visitors are coming…
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Casita Colibrí, ceramic faces, Colima, Mexico, Oaxaca, popular travel destinations, wall art, wall hanging on October 26, 2015| 2 Comments »
The difuntos (departed) will be returning on November 1 and 2, but it’s the impending arrival of my very-much-alive friends from el norte who have inspired last minute painting and decorating.
New outside entrance color to highlight wall hanging from Colima, gifted by my neighbor.
I miss you, too
Posted in Buildings, Creativity, Culture, Museums, Travel & Tourism, tagged art, Lapiztola, murals, Museo Belber Jimenez, museums, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, urban art, wall art on October 24, 2015| 14 Comments »
She’s gone…
As feared, by order of the government, the beautiful and moving mural by Lapiztola, on the side of Museo Belber Jimenez, has been erased.
Only her ghost remains.
I miss her, too. Color and culture, indeed, seem to be unwelcome.
Color and culture, unwelcome?
Posted in Buildings, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged art, Central Connecticut State University, Chiquitraca Colectivo, Color y Cultura Empresa Comunitaria, Lapiztola, Mexico, murals, Museo Belber Jimenez, Oaxaca, obra suspendida, photographs, photos, stores, street art, urban art, wall art, work suspended on October 15, 2015| 12 Comments »
As many of you already know, one of my favorite things about living and being in Oaxaca is, you just never know what you will stumble across. Rounding a corner, one might come upon a calenda (parade) with band, marmotas, monos, and dancers; a street artist or payaso (clown) entertaining a gathering of nin@s to abuel@s; street art; or a newly opened store.
So (no surprise), a few months ago, walking up Tinoco y Palacios enroute to the Sanchez Pascuas mercado (in need of a few staples like quesillo, aguacates, and tamales), a stunning new mural caught my eye.
Positioned to entice potential customers into Color y Cultura, a newly opened artisan community shop, the mural is the work of Chiquitraca Colectivo from Juchitán. It worked, I was hooked, and later returned to browse and eventually buy a pair of earrings carved from a gourd. However, during a return trip to the mercado, I was rather shocked to see unsightly papers defacing the mural.
Usually, street murals are “hands off” zones for vandalism. However, closer inspection revealed official notices declaring, “Suspendida” (suspended) and going on to say that the mural violates regulations on the conservation of the historic district.
And, if this weren’t egregious enough, remember the stunning We sow dreams and harvest hope mural on the side of Museo Belber Jimenez?
It too now has appalling “Suspendida” notices plastered on it. WTF is going on??? A little research revealed that a law was recently passed to “criminalize” wall art. Yes, yes, yes… I understand that the “powers that be” and even ordinary residents are sick of graffiti on historic buildings. BUT to lump the anarchist “A” spray-painted on the side of the Cathedral with magnificent murals painted on ugly decaying walls and beautiful works of art privately commissioned by businesses and museums to decorate their buildings, is the height of absurdity, never mind assigning a “criminal” aspect to it. Believe me, Oaxaca has a laundry list of more important issues that it needs to address.
If in their “infinite wisdom” they are attempting to “clean up” the city to better appeal to tourist dollars, euros, yen, etc., then I think they are barking up the wrong tree — we extranjeros (foreigners) love the street art! To that end, below is a copy of a letter I sent to the president of Central Connecticut State University (CCSU) last year, when officially authorized murals painted by art students as part of their course work were ordered removed by the university administration.
Dear President Miller:
I am writing to you from the city of Oaxaca de Juárez in southern Mexico, nestled in the valley where corn was first cultivated. I have the privilege of living in culture that has a deep respect for, and appreciation of, communication through all forms of art.
Oaxaca is filled with museums and public art. In addition, her walls are covered with murals, both officially sanctioned and unauthorized. An example of the latter: My current neighbor, previously lived next to a concrete bench built into a wall along her street. It’s primary function seemed to serve as a gathering place for garbage and graffiti. Being an artist, she painted a living room scene around the bench, replete with, a lamp, bouquets of flowers, pillows on the sofa/bench, and a framed painting with the image of a smiling creature holding a sign that quotes Oaxaca’s favorite son and former Mexican president, Benito Juárez: “El respecto al derecho ajeno es la paz.” (Respect for the rights of others is peace.) It is a quote that every Mexican school child learns and in the eighteen years since the bench and mural were first painted, it has become a beloved icon of the street and very little graffiti and garbage have reappeared.
Oaxaca would lose much of her character and lessons would be lost, if we were to wake one morning and find all her murals disappeared. The story is the same at CCSU and it would be shameful if the beautiful and thought-provoking student murals at CCSU were to be needlessly destroyed.
Honoring the sacred corn
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Food, Travel & Tourism, tagged agriculture, Coral Saucedo, corn, Día Nacional del Maíz, food, Francisco Toledo, graffiti, maíz, Mexico, mural, National Day of Corn, Oaxaca, Ocote, photographs, photos, Ricardo Aeme, Seasons of My Heart, street art, Susana Trilling, wall art on October 1, 2015| 6 Comments »
September 29 was Día Nacional del Maíz (National Day of Corn) in Mexico. Corn was first cultivated approximately 8,000 years ago in the valley of Oaxaca and native varieties are still grown by the descendants of those original farmers. This was a day to, not only pay homage to Mother Corn but, as Mexican painter Francisco Toledo reminded those along Oaxaca’s Alcalá, to continue the struggle to defend native corn against impending invasion by Monsanto and its genetically modified seeds.
The year revolves around the cycle of corn, which is planted in the same fields as beans and squash to make a perfect growing environment.
The cornstalk grows, the bean plant crawls up the corn, and the squash vine sprawls out and shades the ground to keep it moist… Some of the corn is harvested in August and eaten fresh, while the rest is left on the stalks to dry.
All parts of the corn plant are used — kernels, husks (for tamales), cobs (pig feed), and stalks (cow feed). The dried corn is stored and used in many ways throughout the year.
Text in italics is from the Seasons of My Heart cookbook by Susana Trilling.
The artists of the above, used the signature “olote” which is derived from Nahuatl word, olotl. In English, it translates to “corncob” and “a nobody.” Thank you to a couple of “nobodies,” Coral Saucedo and Ricardo Aeme, for such an expressive and beautiful piece of art honoring the sacred corn.
But not forgotten…
Posted in Creativity, Culture, People, Politics, Tragedy, Travel & Tourism, Violence, tagged 43 students, art, Ayotzinapa, Ayotzinapa Justicia video, commemoration, Cristian Tomás Colón Garnica, Escuela Normal Rural Raúl Isidro Burgos, graphic arts, Guerrero, Iguala, normalistas, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, remembrance, student teachers, students Mexico on September 26, 2015| 3 Comments »
It has been one year since 43 normalistas (student teachers) from the Escuela Normal Rural Raúl Isidro Burgos in Ayotzinapa, Guerrero were disappeared and several of their fellow students were murdered.
They are still missing and the truth of what happened that horrifying night has yet to be revealed. The question remains, What happened to the 43 Ayotzinapa students?
Cristian Tomás Colón Garnica of Tlacolula de Matamoros, Oaxaca; his 42 fellow students; 215 other Oaxaqueños, and 26,000+ other Mexicans missing since 2006, are not forgotten by their families, their friends, the people of Mexico, and the world.
We don’t have weapons sir! Why are you aiming at us?
— from the above video, narrated (in English) by Lila Downs.
And so, Mexico Marks One Year Since Disappearance of Students…
Dancing the dance
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged Ailani Ruíz Ruíz, dancers, Danza de la Pluma, danzantes, Doña Marina, José Isaac Vasquez de Los Angeles, Juana Lizbeth Contreras Vicente, La Malinche, Mexico, Moctezuma, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Teotitlán del Valle on September 13, 2015| 4 Comments »
After being rained out on Sunday, we picked ourselves and our rain gear up and returned to Teotitlán del Valle on Monday for the abbreviated version (4 hours instead of 8 hours) of the Danza de la Pluma — more of the multi-day fiesta honoring La Santísima Virgen María de la Natividad (the Sainted Virgin Mary of the Nativity).
As I’ve previously mentioned, the Danza de la Pluma is a ritual re-enactment of the Spanish conquest. The full version is told in 41 bailes (dances) and lasts from early afternoon into the night. It is danced by folkloric groups throughout the valley of Oaxaca. However, in Teotitlán, Moctezuma, Danzantes, Subalternos, Malinche, and Doña Marina are selected years in advance and make a promise to the church and community to perform their roles for 3 years. It is a great honor.
La Malinche (Juana Lizbeth Contreras Vicente), Doña Marina (Ailani Ruíz Ruíz), and Danzantes.
Moctezuma (José Isaac Vasquez de Los Angeles) poised to dance the dance.
Moctezuma approaching… dancing the dance.
Moctezuma departing… dancing the dance.
Malinche dancing the dance.
Doña Marina dancing the dance.
The Danzantes dancing the dance.
The rains came again and we missed the fireworks and castillo. However, we are already plotting our return at the beginning of October for the Rosario de la Virgen María festival.
Before the rains came
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged amateur photographers, bands, Beatriz Ruiz, convite, Danza de la Pluma, danzantes, La Santísima Virgen María de la Natividad, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Teotitlán del Valle on September 10, 2015| Leave a Comment »
When last I posted, much-needed rains had come to Teotitlán del Valle, sending La Santísima Virgen María de la Natividad (the Sainted Virgin Mary of the Nativity) convite participants, spectators, and photographers dashing for cover and yours truly, home. However, prior to the deluge, little boys patiently waited.
The band led the Danzantes into the plaza in front of the Templo de la Preciosa Sangre de Jesucristo, where they, too, waited.
The unmarried women and girls, wearing their traditional red woolen faldas (skirts) and elaborately embroidered blusas (blouses), posed for friends, family, and strangers while waiting for the procession to begin.
And, Beatriz got her shot!
Photographing the photographers
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Museums, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged amateur photographers, Beatriz Ruiz, bell tower, Centro Fotográfico Manuel Álvarez Bravo, Danza de la Pluma, danzantes, La Santísima Virgen María de la Natividad, Luvia Lazo, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Templo de la Preciosa Sangre de Jesucristo, Teotitlán del Valle on September 7, 2015| 2 Comments »
Yesterday, we returned to Teotitlán del Valle for the convite in honor of La Santísima Virgen María de la Natividad (the Sainted Virgin Mary of the Nativity). Alas, from our point of view, the gods were not cooperating and it threatened to rain on the parade. The sky surrounding the Templo de la Preciosa Sangre de Jesucristo was getting grayer and darker by the minute and professional and amateur photographers alike were challenged to some up with good shots.
The lovely and accomplished photographer, Luvia Lazo was going to march in the procession this time, but couldn’t resist pulling out her cell phone for a shot or two. By the way, I recently learned that the earrings she is wearing are traditional and unique to Oaxaca and the design is known as, gusano (worm)!
Some of the Danzantes also whipped out their phones for some photos. Their 3-year commitment ends in December and I suspect most want to savor these last performances.
And, then there was the daughter of friends and budding photographer, 12-year old Beatriz Ruiz. Here she is setting up a shot.
Doesn’t she look professional? She’s been traveling from Teoti into the city to take classes at the Centro Fotográfico Manuel Álvarez Bravo for almost two years. A photograph she took of her two kittens is currently part of a student exhibition at the museum and is included in the slideshow of photos on their website. Blogger buddy Chris, who has known her since she was very young, has a very sweet blog post about Beatriz and her interest in photography.
Given the state of the corn crop, due to lack of rain during this rainy season, there have probably been many offerings and much praying to the gods Cocijo (lightning and rain) and Pitao Cozobi (maiz). They won the day and the rains did come. And we, being fair-weather fans, departed. However, according to one of the Teotitlán del Valle Facebook sites, the show did go on! We are returning today for the Danza de la Pluma and tonight’s fuegos artificiales (fireworks) and castillo. Needless to say, we are keeping our fingers crossed!
Variations on a Vocho
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Transportation, Travel & Tourism, tagged automobiles, cars, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Vocho, Volkswagen Beetle, VW, VW bug on September 4, 2015| 1 Comment »
El auto del pueblo (the car of the people)…
The Volkswagen Beetle, known in Mexico as a Vocho, has been plying the highways and byways of Mexico since it made its debut in Mexico City at the “Alemania y su Industria” (Germany and its Industry) exhibition in 1954.
Ambassador of embroidery
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Textiles, Travel & Tourism, tagged Chinateca, costumes, culture, Día Internacional de los Pueblos Indígenas, embroidery, International Day of the Worl's Indigenous Peoples, Mexico, Oaxaca, Papaloapan Region, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, San Mateo Yetla, textiles, traje on August 23, 2015| 6 Comments »
The celebration of Día Internacional de los Pueblos Indigenas continues in Oaxaca this weekend, with music, dance, food, and an artisan expo-venta (sale) in Jardín El Pañuelito. As I walked through the exposition, one woman’s embroidery drew me back for a second look. I was especially drawn to a huipil that had been hanging next to the one below. It’s not in this photo, because one of the “Diablos” from the Santiago Juxtlahuaca dance troupe (who were performing later) had already volunteered to climb up on a chair to take it down for her to show to me.
However, before I could get my money out, a delegation of dignitaries came by for a photo shoot.
This popular and exceptionally talented woman is Carmen Vásquez Pérez, from San Mateo Yetla, Valle Nacional, located 172 kilometers northeast of Oaxaca city in the Papaloapan Region. According to the article, Mujeres preservan bordado en Yetla, the village is surrounded by waterfalls and lush vegetation and is rich in Chinanteca customs.
Doña Carmen learned to embroider as a child and has been instrumental in an effort to preserve and promote the local traditional designs and techniques. As you can see below, her workmanship is exquisite.
After returning home and doing a little research, I’m even more pleased with my purchase. And, by the way, I did not “bargain” — my new treasure is worth every peso of its 600 peso price tag, and then some!
Eyes of Kobe (not the beef)
Posted in Creativity, Culture, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged artists, graffiti, Jesus Kobe, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, street art, Taqueria Santa Fe video, wall art on August 3, 2015| 4 Comments »
Last week, walking down Crespo, I spotted a mural at the turnoff to Calle Panorámicas del Fortín and discovered it was the work of Jesus Kobe.
Hmmm… Recently, I’d seen another of his works on Allende near Crespo.
I was familiar with the artist because last year, friends and I were walking along Panorámicas and stopped at this mural.
We walked further along to find another mural, but without a signature. It turned out the artist was walking by and when he saw us admiring the work, he graciously stopped to chat. It was Kobe and he explained that he only signs his work once it is completed.
Serendipity, why this place never ceases to surprise and delight!
And, watch and hear Kobe explain the inspiration that underlies the mural he created for Santa Fe Taqueria in Portland, Oregon:
Behind every mask
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Agatha Christie quote, art, culture, graffiti, Marty Rubin quote, Nicko Foster, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Sam Shepard quote, social commentary, street art, wall art on August 2, 2015| 2 Comments »
I wonder… What is artist Nicko Foster saying along the walls of calle Constitución?
Behind every mask there is a face, and behind that a story.
–Marty Rubin
The human face is, after all, nothing more nor less than a mask.
—Agatha Christie
I believe in my mask–The man I made up is me
I believe in my dance– And my destiny
—Sam Shepard
Missing but not forgotten
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, People, Violence, tagged 43 students, Aldo Gutiérrez Solano, Ayotzinapa, Emmanuel Guzman Sanchez, Escuela Normal Rural Raúl Isidro Burgos, Guerrero, Iguala, Mexico, normalistas, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, students, Victor Robinson on July 26, 2015| 6 Comments »
A pause in La Guelaguetza action to remember…
It’s been ten months since that unspeakable night 43 students from the Escuela Normal Rural Raúl Isidro Burgos teachers’ college in Ayotzinapa, Guerrero went missing in Iguala. They are not forgotten. On the lower block of the Alcalá, an exhibition of sculptures by two Oaxaqueño sculptures, Victor Robinson and Emmanuel Guzman Sanchez is on display.
One of the pieces, Faltan 43 y Faltamos Más (43 missing and we are missing more) speaks to the 43 students and to the countless others who have disappeared.
Guzman explains, that he feels it is necessary to speak out on social issues. “I’m also installing a piece by the 43 missing normalistas; in this piece we find human remains and missing persons who do not know where they are; others that have been found in mass graves, and a broken country.”
Three other students and three bystanders were killed outright and two dozen people were taken to hospital that horrific night. Today’s CNN Mexico profiles one of the hospitalized students, Aldo Gutiérrez Solano, who remains in a coma. The family must travel seven to eight hours to go from their home in Tultepec, Guerrero to Mexico City to sit at Aldo’s bedside. According to his brother, Ulises, the bullet damaged 65% of his brain and “The prognosis is very bad. Still in that state, is not yet known what will happen, how it will be.” His family hopes for a miracle and that he will awaken to end the nightmare of Iguala.
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Mexican Peso Converter
View From Casita Colibrí 
Wise old walls of Oaxaca
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged graffiti, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, social commentary, street art, urban art, wall art on September 20, 2015| 4 Comments »
Never silent and never dull.
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