The day before Lent in San Martín Tilcajete, Oaxaca.
Stay tuned… More masks and mayhem to come!
Archive for the ‘Creativity’ Category
Face in the crowd
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Carnaval, Carnival, faces, Fat Tuesday, Mardi Gras, mascaras, masks, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, San Martín Tilcajete on February 9, 2016| Leave a Comment »
Where am I???
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Transportation, Travel & Tourism, tagged automobiles, cars, graffiti, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, street art, turquoise, urban art, Vocho, Volkswagen Beetle, VW, VW bug on February 7, 2016| Leave a Comment »
Unfortunately, not Cuba. (One of these days…)
Saw it yesterday walking down Tinoco y Palacios, on my way home from Mercado Sanchez Pascuas.
Leather upholstery, wood steering wheel, and paneled dashboard — it’s one very cool vocho.
However, when it comes to telling a color story, wish it had been parked a couple of blocks down the hill, in front of this wall. 😉
Feria del Carrizo 2016
Posted in Children, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged baskets, canastas, Carrizo, Fairs, Feria del Carrizo, folkloric dance, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, portraits, San Juan Guelavia on February 1, 2016| 6 Comments »
Because last year’s fair was so much fun and I’m still loving my lampshades, blogger buddy Chris and I returned to San Juan Guelavia yesterday for the 5th Feria del Carrizo. Upon arriving, our first surprise was being directed to a dirt estacionamiento (one of my favorite words, means parking lot) next to, what looked to be, a rodeo arena. It was quickly followed by surprise number two: The plaza crowded with people — at least ten times the number as last year! Aside from two friends who were leaving (arms filled with purchases), we didn’t see many extranjeros. However, we ran into several friends from Teotitlán del Valle and Tlacolula and at lunch sat across from some visitors from Mexico City.
We arrived just in time for the official ribbon cutting that signaled the opening of the fair. We didn’t recognize any of the dignitaries, though most everyone else did and masses of cell phones rose high in the air to record the event. Once the ceremonial duties were done, chairs were pushed back and a children’s folkloric dance group marched in to the familiar music of the China Oaxaqueña delegation heard during La Guelaguetza. There was even a mini-torito (toritito?) wired with fireworks that was lit, though one of the little girls didn’t appear too thrilled. And, as we wandered around, we could hear music that we recognized from some of the other regions of Oaxaca and we caught glimpses of more of the kids dancing.
Unfortunately, woven plastic baskets have become a more common sight at the markets in the valley of Oaxaca. So, the growing popularity of the fair is good news for a community that has seen a decline in the demand for their beautiful handcrafted baskets made from carrizo (aka, Arundo donax, Spanish cane, Giant cane, Wild Cane, and Colorado River weed) — a tall perennial cane that grows along river banks in Oaxaca. Besides traditional baskets and bird cages, the artisans have branched out to making lamps and shades, weaving decorative bottle covers for your mezcal, fashioning toys, and much more. Naturally, I again couldn’t resist and happily came away with a new hamper.
The Feria del Carrizo is also happening next Sunday, February 7. SO, if you are in the neighborhood (San Juan Guelavia is only about 40 minutes east of the city), I highly recommend a visit and be sure to also stop at the tiendas on road into town — that’s actually where I bought my new hamper (above).
Details that surprise at CASA
Posted in Buildings, Creativity, Culture, Museums, Travel & Tourism, tagged art, CASA, Centro de las Artes de San Agustín, design, Francisco Toledo, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, San Agustín Etla on January 27, 2016| Leave a Comment »
Ahhh… a return visit to Centro de las Artes de San Agustín in early December still resonates. The CASA, a former spinning and weaving factory, was re-imagined by artist Francisco Toledo and architect Claudina Morales Lopez. Now it is one of the most aesthetically pleasing spaces I’ve ever experienced. But, why have I never before noticied this?
Inside and outside, seen in black and white or color, wherever one looks, the attention to detail and design strikes, delights, and often surprises.
Women of the street
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged graffiti, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, street art, Tlacolula de Matamoros, urban art, women's faces on January 21, 2016| 8 Comments »
Ch-ch-ch-ch-changes in Teoti
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Museums, Travel & Tourism, tagged community museum, cultural center, Danza de la Pluma, danzantes, El Picacho, Mexico, museums, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Teotitlán del Valle on January 18, 2016| 4 Comments »
As with all of life, there are changes going on in Teotitlán del Valle. A large new Cultural Center is nearing completion. It’s courtesy of the federal government and, according to the sign at the construction site, not a peso is coming from the state or village. From what I’ve been told, it will house the museum, a library, and a performance space.
And, with their final Danza de la Pluma performance on Día de Guadalupe (Dec. 12), the three-year commitment of the last Danzantes de Promesa group was at close. The new group has already begun the demanding work of learning the steps of the 40+ dances that make up the Danza de la Pluma.
Under the watchful eye of El Picacho, Moctezuma, Malinche, Doña Marina, Teotitles, Capitánes, Reyes, and Vasallos practice from 7:00 AM to 1:00 PM, Saturday through Monday to be ready for their debut the first Wednesday in July 2016 during the festival of the Preciosa Sangre de Cristo. A major and meaningful commitment, it is.
Strange fascination, fascinating me
Changes are taking the pace
I’m going through
Ch-ch-ch-ch-Changes
Changes by David Bowie (descansa en paz)
Masked and anonymous
Posted in Creativity, Culture, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged Apolinar Sosa, devil mask, mascaras, masks, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, San Martín Tilcajete, wood carving on January 9, 2016| 3 Comments »
A friend (who shall remain anonymous) was persuaded to model the mask I gave one of my sons for Christmas.
It is the work of Apolinar Sosa, the son of distinguished carver Jesus Sosa Calvo and Juana Vicente Ortega Fuentes of San Martín Tilcajete.
This mask won a prize and had actually been worn during the unique Carnaval celebration in the village.
Don’t you love the tongue of dried chiles?
Gifts of nature & talent
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Music, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged Carlos Reyes, Crystalline Thrilled, El Día De Los Reyes Magos, Greg Johnson and Glass Brick Boulevard, music, photos, rugs, Sergio Ruiz Gonzalez, tapetes, Teotitlán del Valle, weavers on January 6, 2016| 7 Comments »
I’m still in el norte, now on the west coast in the San Francisco Bay Area and it’s grey, raining, and cold. The rain is a much needed gift in drought stricken California, but the ground has rapidly become supersaturated and this morning’s news reported a giant ficus falling across Mission St. in San Francisco, taking down streetcar lines. I immediately flashed on Oaxaca’s ubiquitous, often topiaried, ficus trees.
However, I headed out into the storm and tuned into a Spanish language music station (I must be missing the soundtrack of my Mexican life) and was reminded today, January 6, is El Día De Los Reyes Magos (aka, Epiphany), when the Three Kings bring gifts to the children of Mexico.
My (grown) children received their gifts on December 25, not January 6, and last year each received a tapete woven by the talented Sergio Ruiz Gonzalez — brother of Antonio, who wove my new rug. In the photo, that’s Sergio, his beautiful wife Virginia, and his lovely mother Emilia (of Lila Downs’ El Palomo del Comalito video fame).
However, I did receive an (unexpected) gift today — my former piano teacher (and forever friend) Greg Johnson stopped by to catch up. And, besides his always upbeat and delightful company, he brought me his new CD, Crystalline Thrilled. The guys of Glass Brick Boulevard are fabulous (as always) and guest artist Carlos Reyes shreds it on violin. Check out Carlos playing with Glass Brick Boulevard at the CD release party. What a great regalo I received!
Murals of Callejón Hidalgo
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Callejón Hidalgo, graffiti, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photos, street art, urban art on January 4, 2016| 12 Comments »
In the category of “your just never know,” the two-block long Callejón Hidalgo is a treasure-trove of murals.
And, there are more! Located between Tinoco y Palacios and Porfirio Diaz above Calle Jesus Carranza, it’s well worth the trek up the hill.
Nochebuena in el norte
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, tagged 'Twas the Night Before Christmas, “Lalo” Guerrero, Christmas, Christmas decorations, Christmas Eve, Christmas ornaments, Christmas tree, Eduardo Guerrero, Ernie Villarreal, Mexico, Nacimiento de navidad, Navidad, Nochebuena, Oaxaca, Pancho Claus, poem on December 24, 2015| 6 Comments »
‘Tis Christmas Eve in Nueva York and, while we may be dreaming of a white Christmas, there is not a snowflake in sight. However, the stockings are hung by the chimney with care, a plate of Christmas cookies is awaiting a hungry Santa Claus, and tonight I will read Pancho Claus to my grandson. It will be his first time hearing Ernie Villarreal’s version of Pancho Claus by Chicano music legend, Eduardo “Lalo” Guerrero. Hopefully, he will learn a few more words in Spanish and, whether I’m visiting or not, it will become a family tradition.
Pancho Claus
‘Twas the night before Christmas and all through la casa
Not a creature was stirring, Caramba! ¿Que pasa?
Los ninos were all tucked away in their camas,
Some in vestidos and some in pajamas.
While Mama worked late in her little cocina,
El viejo was down at the corner cantina.
The stockings were hanging con mucho cuidado,
In hopes that St. Nicholas would feel obligado
To bring all the children, both buenos y malos,
A Nice batch of dulces and other regalos.
Outside in the yard, there arouse such a grito,
That I jumped to my feet, like a frightened cabrito.
I went to the window and looked out afuera,
And who in the world, do you think que era?
Saint Nick in a sleigh and a big red sombrero
Came dashing along like a crazy bombero!
And pulling his sleigh instead of venados,
Were eight little burros approaching volados.
I watched as they came, and this little hombre
Was shouting and whistling and calling by nombre.
¡Ay, Pancho! ¡Ay, Pepe! ¡Ay, Cuca! ¡Ay, Beto!
¡Ay, Chato! ¡¡Ay, Chopo! ¡Maruca and ¡Nieto!
Then standing erect with his hand on his pecho
He flew to the top of our very own techo.
With his round little belly like a bowl of jalea,
He struggled to squeeze down our old chimenea.
Then huffing and puffing, at last in our sala,
With soot smeared all over his red suit de gala.
He filled the stockings with lovely regalos,
For none of the children had been very malos.
Then chuckling aloud and seeming contento,
He turned like a flash and was gone like the viento.
And I heard him exclaim and this is VERDAD,
Merry Christmas to all, And to All ¡Feliz Navidad!
Rabanos revisited
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged dancers, dried corn husks, flor inmortal, Mexico, Night of the Radishes, Noche de Rabanos, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Totomoxtle on December 21, 2015| 3 Comments »
The “only in Oaxaca” Noche de Rábanos is coming! If you are in Oaxaca, the zócalo is the place to be on December 23 to watch radishes being carved into familiar and fantastical creations. Among the former, dancers from Oaxaca’s eight regions are a favorite.
Danza de la Pluma dancer in Rábanos Tradicional category 2012
Baile del Guajolote dancer in Rábanos Libre category 2013
Despite of the name, it isn’t just about carved radishes. The artists of Oaxaca work their creative magic in several other categories, including dried flowers…
Chinas Oaxaqueñas in Flor Inmortal category 2012
… and corn husks.
Chinas Oaxaqueñas entry in Totomoxtle Natural category 2012
Jarabe Mixteco dancer in Totomoxtle Decorado category 2012
Danza de los Huenches Viejos de Yalalag in Totomoxtle Decorado category 2012
I wish I could be in two places at one time, so I could experience this year’s Night of the Radishes. If you are lucky enough to be there, enjoy and take lots of photos!
Bringing Oaxaca to a NY classroom
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Education, Travel & Tourism, tagged Christmas ornaments, classroom presentation, costume, dancers, Guelaguetza, Mexico map, Nacimiento de navidad, Nativity scene, Oaxaca, photos, piñata, rugs, tapetes, Teotitlán del Valle, traje on December 18, 2015| 8 Comments »
Yesterday was SO much fun!!! I’m spending Christmas with family in New York and was invited by my daughter-in-law to speak to her special education class. Wearing one of my huipiles from the Papaloapan region of Oaxaca, I filled them in on “life in Oaxaca.”
We looked at a map of Mexico and I pointed to where the state of Oaxaca is located.
We spoke a little Spanish and discovered that some familiar foods, like chocolate, gum (chicle), corn (maíz), and turkey (pavo), originated in Mexico. They learned that there are many artisan crafts made in Oaxaca and I showed them a tapete (rug) that was woven in Teotitlán del Valle.
We talked about festivals with processions, bands, marmotas, monos, and dancing. And, to illustrate the diversity of the indigenous peoples of Oaxaca, I created a short video from La Guelaguetza 2014.
We discussed the differences between Christmas traditions in Mexico and the USA — that Christmas trees aren’t as common, but most everyone sets up a nacimiento (nativity scene) in their home.
Of course, they loved the idea of breaking open a piñata filled with candy and trinkets.
I concluded with a video I’d made and previously posted of the castillo in Teotitlán del Valle during the festival honoring the Virgen del Rosario. Needless to say, they were awestruck by the fireworks. And then I gave them each a woven palm leaf piñata ornament. Alas, no candy inside!
I was very touched that my daughter-in-law returned home later in the afternoon bringing individualized thank-you notes from the students. However, I would like to give a big “muchisimas gracias” to her for inviting me and to her students for being such an attentive, engaged, and delightful audience!
Felicidades Guadalupe
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Danza de la Pluma, historical photographs, Iglesia de Guadalupe, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, Virgen de Guadalupe, Virgen de Juquila, Virgen de La Soledad, Virgin of Guadalupe, Virgin of Juquila, Virgin of Solitude on December 12, 2015| 2 Comments »
The bells, bands, and booms have been soundtrack of the city for a week — the virgins are being celebrated! First in line, on December 8, for chiming church bells, processions, and fireworks was the Virgen de Juquila and third will be Oaxaca’s patron saint, the Virgen de la Soledad on Dec. 18. However, in between the eighth and eighteenth, all of Mexico honors the Virgin of Guadalupe. Today, December 12 is her day but, like the others, the festivities began days in advance.
Scenes from last night in front of the Iglesia de Guadalupe in Oaxaca city…
Now on to Teotitlán de Valle for this afternoon’s Día de Guadalupe performance of the Danza de la Pluma. We have been told the festivities will last all night, as the community will also be saying “adios” to this group of dancers — their three-year commitment is at an end. It will be a miracle of the Virgin if we can party hardy until even midnight, but we will give it the old college try!
Triumph for Tlahuitoltepec
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Textiles, Travel & Tourism, tagged Antik Batik, Coca-Cola ad, Isabel Marant, Mexico, Mexico News Daily poll, Mixe, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Santa María Tlahuitoltepec, Totontepec Villa de Morelos, traditional blouses, traje on December 9, 2015| 8 Comments »
As I’ve previously written, two separate (and battling) French designers were exposed as plagiarizing the traditional embroidery designs of Santa María Tlahuitoltepec, a village in the mountainous Mixe region of Oaxaca.
However, at last there is a triumph for the embroiderers and the time-honored motifs handed down from their ancestors and inspired by the land — A Court Rules High-End French Label Doesn’t Own Rights to Indigenous Oaxacan Design.
The people of Santa María Tlahuitoltepec may not be financially wealthy, but they and their community are rich in culture and pride in their history and traditions. They are not angling for a monetary settlement — all they want is that their work and designs be recognized and respected.
While we are on the topic of disrespect of indigenous peoples, we have the recent disgraceful Coca-Cola México advertisement, showing Hipsters Bringing Soda To Indigenous Mexicans — another Mixe village, Totontepec Villa de Morelos. After an immediate social media campaign challenged the ad, Coca Cola pulled it. As this teleSUR article details, This New Coca Cola Ad Shows Mexico’s White Savior Problem. In addition, like the USA, obesity is growing problem here, thus a Reply to Coca-Cola comes in new video by the Alliance for Food Health featuring two Mixe students speaking about the health risks posed by these kinds of “soft drinks” that lack any nutritional value.
By the way, the English language Mexico News Daily is running a poll, asking if you “agree that the controversial Coca-Cola Christmas video was racist or offensive?” And, I’m appalled that as I write, the results are: 32% yes and 68% no!!!
Sanez changes the face again
Posted in Creativity, Culture, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged art, Fabián Calderón Sánchez, graffiti, Mexico, murals, popular travel destinations, Sanez on December 5, 2015|
Artist Fabián Calderón Sánchez (aka, Sanez) has changed the face of the building next to Hotel Azucenas again!
Located on calle Martiniano Aranda, in the 6-1/2 years I’ve lived in the ‘hood, the front of this building has played host to two previous murals by Sanez.
I’ve been a big fan of his distinctive work and was again captivated by his creative and powerful use of indigenous imagery.
The mural is signed, Macuilxochitl Losdelaefe — MTY (Monterrey) – OAX (Oaxaca) – GDL (Guadalajara) – www.sanez.mx – 2015.
Let us hope this doesn’t meet the same fate as other murals in my neighborhood recently have.
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