Calacas dressed for work and catrinas dressed to the nines, for my skeleton-loving grandson.
From the sidewalks, courtyards, and balconies of Oaxaca, October 2017 — ready for the Day of the Dead.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged calacas, Catrinas, Day of the Dead, Día de los Muertos, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, skeletons on October 26, 2017| Leave a Comment »
Calacas dressed for work and catrinas dressed to the nines, for my skeleton-loving grandson.
From the sidewalks, courtyards, and balconies of Oaxaca, October 2017 — ready for the Day of the Dead.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged calacas, Day of the Dead, Día de Muertos, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, skeletons street art, Villa de Zaachila, wall art on October 14, 2017| 2 Comments »
Día de Muertos is coming…
That means the departed will soon return to eat, drink, and be merry with their living loved ones.
Due to earthquake damage the Panteón General in the city is closed, but the traditional evening of the dead will take place at the Panteón Xochimilco.
As the schedule of over 100 cultural activities (between October 28 and November 4) states, despite earthquakes and hurricanes, “Oaxaca is more alive than ever!”
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, People, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged dance, dancers, Danza de la Pluma, danzantes, Doña Marina, Feather dance, Fiesta de la Virgen del Rosario, Malinche, Mexico, Moctezuma, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Subalternos, Teotitlán del Valle on October 2, 2017| Leave a Comment »
Yesterday, after missing the Fiesta de la Natividad because I was in the middle of my 6-week cross-country sojourn in el norte, I managed (courtesy of blogger buddy Chris and his trusty VW Jetta) to make it out to Teotitlán del Valle for the last day of the Fiesta de La Virgen del Rosario and performance of the Danza de la Pluma.

Sergio Gutiérrez Bautista (Moctezuma)
The dance is day-long and recreates the Spanish Conquest from the Zapotec point of view.

Quetzali del Rayo Santiago Ruiz (Malinche)

Elizabeth Hernández Gutiérrez (Doña Marina)
Miracle of miracles, the rain held off, the clouds parted, and the sun made a much welcome appearance.


Foreground: Marcos Vicente Gutiérrez (Capitán 1 ro.)

Foreground: Edgar Daniel Ruiz Ruiz (Vasallo 8vo.)

As we approached the atrium of the Templo Preciosa Sangre de Cristo, the father of one of the Danzantes explained a venue change — due to some (hopefully) minimal earthquake damage to one of the bell towers of the church, the Danza de la Pluma was moved next door to the plaza in front of the municipal building.

Juan Bautista Ruiz (Subalterno)

Florentino Martínez Ruiz (Subalterno) and Señor Inocencio
A heartfelt muchisimas gracias to the people of Teotitlán del Valle, many of whom I am so lucky and grateful to call friends. The warm welcome I received was such an incredible tonic to the grey days we have been experiencing in Oaxaca.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Libraries, Restaurants, Travel & Tourism, tagged Centro Fotográfico Manuel Álvarez Bravo, IAGO, Instituto de Artes Gráficas de Oaxaca, MACO, Mexico, mural, Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Oaxaca, Oaxaca, Palacio de Gobierno, photographs, photography exhibitions, photos, Pitiona, pop-up restaurant, Waje, weddings, Week in Oaxaca on August 13, 2017| 4 Comments »
Our first stop on day five of B’s Week in Oaxaca was the Palacio de Gobierno to see the magnificent Mural of Oaxaca history. Ooops! I had forgotten that the Government Palace was now closed to the public. However, a polite appeal to see the mural, addressed to one of the guards by a couple of tourists (okay, one tourist and one resident), resulted in the guard receiving permission from a superior to let us in. We were instructed, mural only! We obeyed, walking only half-way up the grand staircase to take in the entire work of art. I love this mural by Arturo García Bustos and hope the palacio will again be opened to the public.
Once we had finished marveling at the Bustos history of Oaxaca, we walked up the Macedonio Alcalá to the Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Oaxaca (MACO) to check out the Espejos de Cal mural being painted in the courtyard by Jesús González. Engrossed in watching the mural unfold and fascinated in the technique explained by the artist’s Russian assistant, we never made it inside this treasure of a museum. Next time!
We strolled further up the Alcalá to the Instituto de Artes Gráficas de Oaxaca (IAGO), founded in 1988 by renown artist, philanthropist, and social activist, Francisco Toledo. First we wandered through the exhibition rooms and then into the impressive library. The 60,000+ books on art, architecture, design, photography, and much more is one of the most extensive arts-related collections in Latin America. A photography professor friend raved to me about finding a book at IAGO that he had been searching for and B (the architect) was ooh-ing and ahh-ing at titles he eyed — and pulled a few off the shelves to leaf through. IAGO also hosts lectures, conferences, musical performances, workshops, poetry readings, and film showings.
Needless to say, by the time we finally left, we were hungry. Lucky for us, the acclaimed restaurant Pitiona was only a block away. Born in Pinotepa Nacional, Oaxaca, Chef José Manuel Baños spent time in Spain under the tutelage of innovative chefs Feran Adrià and Juan Mari Arzak. However, as the name Pitiona (a native herb frequently used in Oaxacan cooking) suggests, the starting point for Baños is local ingredients. The simple elegance of the old colonial building and attention to detail in table settings, service, and especially food, made for a sublime interlude in the day’s activities.
We descended the stairs of Pitiona to the sound of music coming from the atrium of Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán. It was Saturday and that means wedding day at Santo Domingo – each featuring a band, folkloric dancers, marmotas (giant cloth balloons), bride and groom monos (giant puppets), a wedding procession down the Alcalá, and scores of tourists and locals stopping to watch — which we did, too!
Our final stop was at the photography museum Centro Fotográfico Manuel Álvarez Bravo, another brainchild of Francisco Toledo. The museum has over 18,000 photographs in its permanent collection, including by its namesake Manuel Álvarez Bravo, his first wife Lola Alvarez Bravo, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Tina Modotti, Guillermo Kahlo (yes, Frida Kahlo’s father), and Mary Ellen Mark. Works from the collection and by photographers from all over the world are exhibited in galleries surrounding a beautiful courtyard featuring a reflecting pool.
However, that wasn’t the end. After a siesta, we gathered with eight other diners for a Waje pop-up dinner. The June menu was an homage to mole and the setting was at the restaurant Mezquite Gastronomia Y Destilado where Waje chef, José Daniel Delgado is the new chef. As always, José Daniel and his Waje team provided a creative, delicious, and delightful evening. An added bonus was being seated across from Jason Cox, co-owner and mezcal steward of El Destilado — a restaurant I definitely need to try.
Only one day left in B’s Week in Oaxaca. Where to go? What to do? Stay tuned!
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Restaurants, Textiles, Travel & Tourism, tagged calenda, Catedral Metropolitana de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, Cathedral of Oaxaca, Centro Cultural San Pablo, Mexico, Museo de los Pintores Oaxaqueños, Museo Textil de Oaxaca, Museum of Oaxacan Painters, Oaxaca, Origen, parade, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Rufino Tamayo Museo de Arte Prehispanico de Mexico, Rufino Tamayo Museum of Prehispanic Art, San Pablo Academic and Cultural Center, Textile Museum of Oaxaca, Week in Oaxaca on August 3, 2017| 2 Comments »
Day four of B’s Week in Oaxaca had B relying on yours truly for the day’s sights and sounds. Where to begin? The answer, because it was near Casita Colibrí and we had just been to Mitla and Monte Albán, was the Museo de Arte Prehispánico de México Rufino Tamayo (Rufino Tamayo Museum of Prehispanic Art). The collection is spread over five rooms surrounding a courtyard in a 16th century colonial building. Each room is painted a different iconic Mexican color, chosen by the late Zapotec Oaxaqueño artist Rufino Tamayo, to highlight the pieces of his extraordinary collection.
Next we walked down to and through the iron gates, designed by Francisco Toledo, and across the brick pathway of the Centro Cultural San Pablo (Cultural Center of San Pablo). We explored the interior rooms of this ex-convent, now an academic research and cultural center, that hosts concerts, lectures, exhibitions, and houses a library. Pausing to rest, we took advantage of the cafe in the courtyard to order a couple of aguas.
Our thirst quenched, we walked around the corner to the Museo Textil de Oaxaca (Textile Museum of Oaxaca) to explore the ground floor and upstairs exhibitions of one of this textile lover’s favorite museums. One of the exhibits was the stunning “Almas bordadas, vestido y ornamento en el Istmo de Tehuantepec” — displaying the iconic embroidered clothing of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec. (Think, the dress of Frida Kahlo.)
Forty-five minutes later, we were certifiably hungry and, lucky for us, Origen, restaurant of Top Chef Mexico 2016 winner, Rodolfo Castellanos, and one of my oft recommended restaurants in Oaxaca, was only a block away. As always, its relaxing interior, attentive service, and delicious food provided a perfect respite.
Once rested and satiated, it felt good to set feet to pavement for the short walk to the Catedral Metropolitana de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción (Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption). The cathedral towers over the zocaló and the Alameda. The construction of this green cantera (stone) edifice began in 1535 and was consecrated on July 12, 1733. It is dominated by a spectacular altar and lined, on both sides, with chapels — the most important being that of Señor del Rayo. In addition, it is home to one of the historic pipe organs of Oaxaca.
After being wowed by the Cathedral’s soaring ceiling, altar, art, chapels, and organ, we crossed Independencia for a taste of the modern — the Museo de los Pintores Oaxaqueños (Museum of Oaxacan Painters). This, often overlooked, two-story restored colonial era mansion showcases the creativity and talent of Oaxaca’s painters. I had been to the museum only a month before, but the exhibitions are ever-changing, and new artists were on display.
Of course, no day in Oaxaca is complete without a parade and we were not disappointed. We departed the Museo de los Pintores Oaxaqueños to be greeted with a calenda (parade) by “Ranchu Gubiña” from Union Hidalgo in the Isthmus of Tehuantepec region — attired in clothing similar to that which we had seen earlier in the day at the textile museum. We had come full circle!
Another long day’s journey into evening…. However, we weren’t finished yet; two more days await!
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Food, Travel & Tourism, tagged Feria del Tejate y el Tamal, food festival, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, San Andrés Huayapam, San Andrés Huayapan, tamales, tea towels on July 27, 2017| 7 Comments »
As the name implies, the Feria del Tejate y el Tamal also featured tamales, along with yesterday’s blog post subject, Tejate, “Drink of the Gods”.
Tamal vendors from San Andrés Huayapam stood behind long tables lined with tin buckets, giant pots, and baskets covered with colorfully embroidered towels hiding every kind of tamal imaginable. There were mole negro (black mole) tamales wrapped in banana leaves…
And… flor de calabaza (squash blossom), amarillo (yellow mole), verde (green mole), chapulín (grasshopper), frijol (bean), and chepil (a wild herb) wrapped and steamed in corn husks. The local newspaper reports there were also fish and shrimp tamales. Darn, I didn’t even see them! Though not a surprise because it was quite a scene as crowds amassed in front of the vendors placing their orders. It reminded me of the lyrics from the Neil Diamond song, Sweet Caroline: Hands, touching hands, reaching out…
I don’t really have a favorite — they are all so uniquely special. However, because chichilo mole originated in San Andrés Huayapam and is only served on special occasions (weddings, christenings, harvesting of crops), I always make sure to bring home a couple. Chichilo mole is made from chilhuacle negro, mulatto, and pasilla chiles; blackened tortillas and seeds of the chiles; and avocado leaves, the latter imparting a subtle anise flavor. They are so yummy!
The prehispanic riches of tejate and tamales — a couple of reasons why Oaxaca is a food lovers paradise.
Posted in Beverages, Celebrations, Culture, Food, Travel & Tourism, tagged Beverages, Feria del Tejate y el Tamal, food festival, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, San Andrés Huayapam, San Andrés Huayapan, tejate on July 26, 2017| 2 Comments »
This morning, the Feria del Tejate y el Tamal opened at the Plaza de la Danza — with live music, speeches, scores of tejate and tamal vendors, and hundreds of happy, hungry people. In the event you are unfamiliar with tejate (which is probably the case if you have never been to Oaxaca), it is a very popular frothy, refreshing, nutritious, and (supposedly) aphrodisiacal non-alcoholic prehispanic beverage. It is made from corn mixed with tree ash, cacao beans, mamey seeds, rosita de cacao (Quararibea funebris) flowers, and peanuts or pecans (depending on the season).
The preparation takes at least twelve hours, as the beans, seeds, flowers, and nuts must be toasted on a comal and corn must be nixtamalized. Ingredients are taken to a molino to be milled, then kneaded together, left to cool, eventually being hand-ground on a metate to make a thick paste — which is what one sees in the mercados being thinned with water and (literally) mixed by hand. For a blow-by-blow photo essay of the process, check out Making Tejate for the Market.
In days gone by, this exquisite beverage was reserved solely for Zapotec royalty. However, today tejate is for the masses, with tejateras and their massive clay ollas set up at almost every mercado and festival you run across. One frequently sees tejate poured into colorfully painted gourds and, of course, it tastes even better when served that way!
The sale of tejate is the main economic activitity in San Andrés Huayapam, located about 7 miles northeast of Oaxaca city. It is prepared and served by the tejateras of the Unión de Mujeres Productoras del Tejate. At the Feria, many of the tejateras were young — it is good to see the ancestral recipes and skills being passed down to the next generation.
The Feria del Tejate y el Tamal runs through tomorrow (July 26, 2017). If you are in town, don’t miss it! Oh yes, there were tamales, so stay tuned…
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Textiles, Travel & Tourism, tagged costumes, dancers, Down's Syndrome, folkloric dance, Guelaguetza, Guelaguetza Muy Especial, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, traje on July 24, 2017| 6 Comments »
The Guelaguetza Muy Especial, danced by Los Ángeles de Luz, gets bigger every year.
Early yesterday evening, all seating was filled and it was standing room only at the Plaza de la Danza — and that is a very good thing because Los Ángeles de Luz is group of 18 children and young people with Down’s Syndrome.
It was formed in 2003 with the purpose of facilitating the integration of people with Down’s syndrome and offering them creative experiences that exercise their motor skills, intelligence, language, and sensitivity in an environment of respect, trust, and love. (Ángeles le dan luz a las fiestas del Lunes del Cerro, 07/25/2016)
Their talents also extend to theatrical productions, including performances of “Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs” and “Romeo and Juliet.” In addition, they have mounted an interdisciplinary spectacular, “Ellos le bailan a México, a un México muy especial.”
At the Guelaguetza Muy Especial, these young people make the requisite costume changes and perform traditional dances from the eight regions of Oaxaca.
This year’s show brought Oaxaca’s dignitaries, including Diosa Centeotl, Rebeca Itahí Ortiz Santibañez — she looked incredibly moved when they performed dances from her town of San Melchor Betaza.
As I have mentioned before, perhaps it is because I have a special needs nephew or that both my sister-in-law and daughter-in-law are special education teachers, that I am drawn to this event every year.
Tears always well up in my eyes as I share in the joy and pride exhibited by the dancers from Los Ángeles de Luz.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Music, Textiles, Travel & Tourism, tagged dance, Desfile de Delegaciones, folklorico, Guelaguetza, Live streaming, Oaxaca, Parade of Delegations, popular travel destinations, video on July 22, 2017| 2 Comments »
To watch last week’s Desfile de Delegaciones (Parade of Delegations), Donají…La Leyenda, and both the morning and evening Guelaguetza performances at the Auditorio Guelaguetza on Cerro del Fortín: http://www.viveoaxaca.org/2017/07/EnVivo2017.html.
This week, the same link should be live streaming tonight’s Desfile, tomorrow night’s Donají, and both Guelaguetza performances on Monday. If not, check the CORTV TV en Vivo link: http://www.cortv.oaxaca.gob.mx/tv-en-vivo/.
July 22, 2017 at 6:00 PM – Desfile de Delegaciones
July 23, 2017 at 8:00 PM – Donají… La Leyenda
July 24, 2017 at 10:00 AM – Guelaguetza 2017 morning performance
July 24, 2017 at 5:00 PM – Guelaguetza 2017 evening performance
(Times given are USA Central Daylight Savings Time)
This week’s list of delegations:


¡Desfruta! (Enjoy!)
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged bands, calenda, dancers, Gran Calenda del Mercado de Abastos, marmotas, Mexico, monos, Oaxaca, parade, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on July 19, 2017| 2 Comments »
Another day, another parade. Today, the Gran Calenda del Mercado de Abastos (parade of the markets) passed within a block and a half of Casita Colibrí. I couldn’t miss it — the cacophony of multiple bands, cohetes (rockets), and honking horns announced its arrival in my ‘hood! In the words of Octavio Paz, from The Labyrinth of Solitude…
“The solitary Mexican loves fiestas and public gatherings.”
“The art of the fiesta has been debased almost everywhere else, but not in Mexico.”
“Our poverty can be measured by the frequency and luxuriousness of our holidays.”
“Do they forget themselves and show their true faces? Nobody knows. The important thing is to go out, open a way, get drunk on noise, people, colors.”
“In the confusion that it generates, society is dissolved, is drowned, insofar as it is an organism ruled according to certain laws and principles.”
“Everything is united: good and evil, day and night, the sacred and the profane. Everything merges, loses shape and individuality and returns to the primordial mass.”
“The fiesta is a cosmic experiment, an experiment in disorder, reuniting contradictory elements and principles in order to bring about a renascence of life.”
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Music, Travel & Tourism, tagged Banda Oro Blanca, bands, Guelaguetza, Mexico, music, musicians, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Reyes Etla on July 18, 2017| 2 Comments »
The dancers get most of the press, but the musicians are some of the unsung heroes of all the Guelaguetza performances. And, I have to say, yesterday the Banda Oro Blanco at the Guelaguetza at “Las Peñitas” in Reyes Etla played a leading role. And the view wasn’t bad either!
What can I say about this clarinet player? At one point he played off a fake book on a smart phone and he was on fire!!!
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, People, Textiles, Travel & Tourism, tagged competition, costumes, Diosa Centéotl, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Rebeca Itahí Ortiz Santibañez, traje on July 16, 2017| 13 Comments »
On Friday, Diosa Centéotl was selected to reign over the Guelaguetza festivities. The eight regions of the state of Oaxaca were all represented by the 33 contestants competing for the honor. (My photos of each of the contestants are from the morning phase of the competition.)
First a little history… According to the pamphlet that was distributed to the hundreds of locals, family and friends of contestants, and tourists attending the competition at Jardín el Pañuelito, the little “pocket” garden along the side of Santo Domingo de Guzmán:
“In the pre-Hispanic worldview, Goddess Centéotl possessed the divine power to germinate corn and all the plants of the milpa: tomato, squash, chile, quelites, beans, and other vegetables that constituted the Mesoamerican diet….”
“For that reason, prayers, dances, music and flowers were offered in each planting cycle…”
“[Later] the relationship between peoples, nature and the gods was manifested through a liturgical calendar carried out with much scrupulousness by both priests and the common people, for the survival of all was at stake, since a failed crop condemned them to famine, disease and moral suffering.”
“By contrast, an abundant harvest filled the people with happiness and they understood that the Goddess of Fertility – Centéotl – had listened to their requests.” — my translation from the Spanish
The competition to be Diosa Centéotl is not a Miss Universe/Miss America style beauty pageant. Dressed in the typical costumes of their villages or neighborhoods, these young women had to communicate their knowledge of their communities. They were required to give two 4-minute oral presentations in front of five judges: Jorge Bueno Sánchez (city chronicler), Celia Florián (chef/owner of Las Quince Letras), María Concepción Villalobos (coauthor of Centéotl en los Lunes del Cerro), María Concepción Guzmán Concha (textile expert), and Claudio Sánchez Islas (writer and journalist).
In the morning session of the competition, each was required to speak about their traditional cuisine, crafts, festivals, customs, myths and legends, or tourist attractions. During the afternoon stage, each had to discuss the history, composition, elaboration, and utility of their costumes. In addition, as Oaxaca has sixteen distinct ethnolinguistic groups, contestants from the various indigenous communities spoke several lines in their materna lengua (mother tongue).
It is in the dignity, pride, and poise expressed by each of the contestants where we see the essence of their beauty expressed. And the winner is…
Rebeca Itahí Ortiz Santibañez, from San Melchor Betaza in the Sierra Norte region of the state. At being selected she exclaimed, “Doxhkenho dazhan” — Muchas gracias in Zapoteco.
(ps) If anyone has or can find a list of all the contestants, I would really love to add their names and communities to each photo. I think they all deserve to be recognized.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Desfile de Delegaciones, Guelaguetza, Mexico, Oaxaca, Parade of Delegations, photographs, photos, rain, rain ponchos, rainy season on July 15, 2017| 7 Comments »
This evening, the rain began falling as the delegations for the first Saturday Guelaguetza desfile began gathering. Are we having fun, yet?
However, just like last year, the show must go on and the dancing must be done.
Some even looked like they were having fun. Of course, they were well covered!
I wasn’t, so this wimpy gringa headed back to her casa and a glass of wine (insert smiley face). By the way, to add insult to injury, tonight’s press is reporting that the route was changed — and it wasn’t just me who was clueless. Ahhh… Oaxaca!!!
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, food festival, Travel & Tourism, tagged Diosa Centéotl, Festival de los Moles, Guelaguetza, Guelaguetza calendar of activities, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on July 13, 2017| 8 Comments »
While there have been pre-Guelaguetza calendas for the past couple of weeks, for me, the festivities really begin tomorrow — with the Festival de los Moles. Last year, at least 20+ moles were presented at the “all you can eat” buffet in the Jardín Etnobotánico. Ticket in hand, I’m ready!
In addition, tomorrow Diosa Centéotl (Corn Goddess) will be selected to preside over La Guelaguetza. Beginning at 10:00 AM, contestants from the eight regions of the state of Oaxaca will showcase and explain the costumes and traditions of their communities, both in Spanish and their materna lengua (mother tongue).
The schedule of activities during these next two weeks is always jam-packed, entertaining, and exhausting. If you don’t believe me, take a look at the official schedule below.
That’s not all, folks! There are additional Guelaguetza dance performances, expo-ventas, and fairs in the surrounding villages. And, best of all, residents and visitors will not be navigating along sidewalks piled with garbage. A temporary Guelaguetza truce to the almost two-week dispute that has prevented garbage from being delivered to dump, was agreed to last night.
This afternoon, this guy’s garbage cart was SO full, he was having a hard time pulling it over the cobblestones. He is my hero of the day!