Sometimes you just have to stop and gaze…
This morning outside Mercado Sánchez Pascuas.
Posted on Cee’s Flower of the Day.
Posted in Flora, Science & Nature, Travel & Tourism, tagged flor de jamaica, flowers, hibiscus, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, pink wall on October 20, 2017| 4 Comments »
Sometimes you just have to stop and gaze…
This morning outside Mercado Sánchez Pascuas.
Posted on Cee’s Flower of the Day.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Ayotzinapa, corn, graphic arts, La Unión Revolucionaria de Trabajadores del Arte, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, street art, URTARTE, wall art on October 16, 2017| 5 Comments »
URTARTE — La Unión Revolucionaria de Trabajadores del Arte (the Revolutionary Union of Art Workers). You have no doubt seen their work around the city of Oaxaca.
The black and white lines of resistance defending heritage corn from an invasion by the moneyed interests of el norte.
Demanding justice for the 43 student teachers from Escuela Normal Rural Raúl Isidro Burgos in Ayotzinapa, Guerrero — still disappeared after three years.
And yesterday I discovered this masterpiece…
Celebrating the creativity, hard work, and dignity of the women and men living in the villages of Oaxaca.
A reminder of the people whose roots run deep into the soil and who make Oaxaca such an exceptional place.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged calacas, Day of the Dead, Día de Muertos, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, skeletons street art, Villa de Zaachila, wall art on October 14, 2017| 2 Comments »
Día de Muertos is coming…
That means the departed will soon return to eat, drink, and be merry with their living loved ones.
Due to earthquake damage the Panteón General in the city is closed, but the traditional evening of the dead will take place at the Panteón Xochimilco.
As the schedule of over 100 cultural activities (between October 28 and November 4) states, despite earthquakes and hurricanes, “Oaxaca is more alive than ever!”
Posted in Animals, Casita Colibrí, Food, Restaurants, Science & Nature, Travel & Tourism, tagged Argiope, Carniceria Sonora, chile en nogada, comida, Las Quince Letras, lunch, Mexico, Oaxaca, orb weaver spiders, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, tacos on October 12, 2017| 6 Comments »
Lunch coming down out of the mountains in Colorado…

Tacos at Carniceria Sonora in Clifton, CO
Back in Oaxaca in time for a comida of September’s traditional dish…

Chiles en Nogada at Las Quince Letras Restaurante in Oaxaca de Juárez
And, not to be left out, Argiope showing off her freshly caught brunch…
Gals, be they human or arachnid, have got to eat!
Posted in Animals, Casita Colibrí, Science & Nature, tagged Araneidae, Argiope, Casita Colibrí, garden, Mexico, nature, Neoscona oaxacensis, Oaxaca, orb weaver spiders, photographs, photos, spider webs on October 5, 2017| 6 Comments »
If you suffer from arachnophobia, you might want to click away from this post.
You were warned, so I will continue… Two spiders, a Neoscona oaxacensis and an Argiope, have taken up residence on my terrace. This isn’t the first time I have played hostess to these two kinds of orb weaver spiders.
My latest guests arrived a week ago and have been settling in ever since. Their webs are strung across neighboring plants, though the Argiope’s also extends across a walkway onto the deck. Unfortunately, a few days ago, I inadvertently walked through it but, undeterred, she rewove it in the same place. So I have blocked the route with an extremely spiky cactus, to prevent further human destruction.
Aren’t my new visitors beautiful? By the way, they eat insects and are harmless to humans, so nothing to be afraid of!
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, People, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged dance, dancers, Danza de la Pluma, danzantes, Doña Marina, Feather dance, Fiesta de la Virgen del Rosario, Malinche, Mexico, Moctezuma, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Subalternos, Teotitlán del Valle on October 2, 2017| Leave a Comment »
Yesterday, after missing the Fiesta de la Natividad because I was in the middle of my 6-week cross-country sojourn in el norte, I managed (courtesy of blogger buddy Chris and his trusty VW Jetta) to make it out to Teotitlán del Valle for the last day of the Fiesta de La Virgen del Rosario and performance of the Danza de la Pluma.

Sergio Gutiérrez Bautista (Moctezuma)
The dance is day-long and recreates the Spanish Conquest from the Zapotec point of view.

Quetzali del Rayo Santiago Ruiz (Malinche)

Elizabeth Hernández Gutiérrez (Doña Marina)
Miracle of miracles, the rain held off, the clouds parted, and the sun made a much welcome appearance.


Foreground: Marcos Vicente Gutiérrez (Capitán 1 ro.)

Foreground: Edgar Daniel Ruiz Ruiz (Vasallo 8vo.)

As we approached the atrium of the Templo Preciosa Sangre de Cristo, the father of one of the Danzantes explained a venue change — due to some (hopefully) minimal earthquake damage to one of the bell towers of the church, the Danza de la Pluma was moved next door to the plaza in front of the municipal building.

Juan Bautista Ruiz (Subalterno)

Florentino Martínez Ruiz (Subalterno) and Señor Inocencio
A heartfelt muchisimas gracias to the people of Teotitlán del Valle, many of whom I am so lucky and grateful to call friends. The warm welcome I received was such an incredible tonic to the grey days we have been experiencing in Oaxaca.
Posted in Environment, Geography, Science & Nature, Tragedy, Weather, tagged disasters, donations, earthquake, earthquake relief, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, relief efforts, Spanish vocabulary, stencil art, street art, wall art on September 28, 2017| 2 Comments »
In Oaxaca city, while nerves remain on edge, life is going on as usual with only a few signs of the recent earthquakes: Buildings years ago labeled “inmueble en mal estado” (property in a bad state) now sport yellow caution tape, as does Templo De La Virgen De Las Nieves, which has a huge crack along one of the bell towers. And, on my block, a plywood retaining wall has been erected to contain a wall that collapsed back in 2012.
Those atrapada (trapped) by the September 7th and September 19th earthquakes have mostly been rescued, though réplicas (aftershocks) continue daily, especially in the Isthmus of Tehuantepec region — still in the 4 to 4.5 on the Richter Scale (though not felt in Oaxaca city). Damnificados (victims) and escombros (debris) are all that remain in the hardest hit areas but tens of thousands of people are being forced to live in the streets. To add insult to injury, they must cope with torrential downpours and flooding from this very long and destructive rainy season.
Fundraising events are being held and centros de acopio (collection centers) have been set up to gather donations, with countless volunteers traversing damaged and dangerous mountain roads to deliver supplies. The need is massive!
HOW YOU CAN HELP:
Como Ayudar – A large international list of information and links regarding assistance and distribution of goods to help those affected by the most recent earthquakes in Mexico.
How To Help The Earthquake Victims In Mexico City, Morelos, Puebla & Oaxaca – List of organizations collecting monetary donations, compiled by Mexico City based food writer, Nicholas Gilman
In addition, a couple of friends have asked me to publicize small organizations they are working with:
Help to San Mateo del Mar, Oaxaca, Earthquake Victims – Norma Schaefer, of Oaxaca Cultural Navigator, is getting the word out on the earthquake relief efforts of cultural anthropologist Denise Lechner and medical doctor Anja Widman.
SER Mixe – An indigenous organization serving the Mixe people in the Mixe region of Oaxaca; recommended by Margaret Macsems, general manager of Khadi Oaxaca.
*** Words in red type have become hardwired in my brain — new Spanish vocabulary I wish I didn’t have to learn under these circumstances.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Politics, Protests, Tragedy, Violence, tagged Ayotzinapa, disappeared, Escuela Normal Rural Raúl Isidro Burgos, Espacio Zapata, graphic arts, Guerrero, Iguala, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, stencil art, street art, student teachers, wall art on September 26, 2017| 8 Comments »
I can’t believe it has been three years since 43 student teachers went missing one night in Iguala, Guerrero. And, I can’t believe the key questions remain.
Who is responsible? What happened that night? Where are they? Why are there still no answers? How can 43 human beings be disappeared so completely? When will the truth be revealed?
In the midst of our current tragedies, let us not forget the 43 normalistas from Escuela Normal Rural Raúl Isidro Burgos, Ayotzinapa, Guerrero.
Three years without answers must seem like an eternity to their families….
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Environment, Geography, Science & Nature, Travel & Tourism, tagged cars, earthquake, Earthquake Track, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, street art, wall art on September 24, 2017| 2 Comments »
Here in Oaxaca we continue surfing the temblors and tormentas…
Torrential downpours and flooding have returned. Aftershocks from the September 7 earthquake continue. But, aside from difficulty navigating the flooding and potholes, suffering from frayed nerves, and being worried sick about friends and family in the critically affected areas of central and southern Mexico, we are okay in the city and surrounding villages.
Re geography: Oaxaca is the name of both a state and its capital city. The epicenter of the September 7th earthquake in Oaxaca was in the southeast part of the state — as the crow flies, it is almost 150 miles and through the Sierra Madre del Sur mountain range from Oaxaca city. To see where Oaxaca’s earthquakes are happening, check out Earthquake Track.
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Creativity, Culture, Music, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged agave, benefit, concert, earthquake, earthquake relief, flowers, Francisco Garcia Vásquez, Lila Downs, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, sculptures, Susana Harp, Tehuana, video on September 18, 2017| 4 Comments »
A skein of yarn waiting to be woven…
Agave blossoms reaching for the sky…
Ceramic sculpture of a Tehuana by Fran Garcia Vásquez.
Ooops, a broken arm! It seems appropriate that my only casualty from the 8.2 earthquake depicts a woman from the Isthmus of Tehuantepec — the region where some of the most severe damage in the state of Oaxaca occurred. However, like the people she represents, she is strong, proud, and healing will happen.
If you want to help the victims of the September 7 earthquake, please see my previous post. If you do, reward yourself by watching last night’s benefit at the Guelaguetza Auditorium, Oaxaca Corazón. And, if you don’t, perhaps this spectacular concert will encourage you to donate to earthquake relief.
This all-star event, organized in less than a week by Lila Downs and Susana Harp, will have tears falling — I guarantee it!
Posted in Archaeology, Creativity, Culture, Environment, Travel & Tourism, tagged flooding, graffiti, Mexico, Monte Albán, murals, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, rain, street art, wall art, weather on September 5, 2017| 10 Comments »
Oaxaca continues to be inundated with rain. I’m in Colorado now (inhaling smoke from fires throughout the west), but friends in Oaxaca are describing flooding, leaking roofs, water coming through windows and doors, and rain without end. Today’s news is reporting more than 13 communities are incommunicado and that urban development is a major cause of flooding by the Atoyac River that runs through the valley of Oaxaca.
Perhaps there are lessons to be learned from the builders of Monte Albán, where the Pre-Hispanic drainage works better than current systems.
Posted in Culture, Textiles, Travel & Tourism, tagged Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Teotitlán del Valle, textiles, yarn on September 1, 2017| 4 Comments »
Wool was brought to Teotitlán del Valle in the 16th century…
Spun into yarn…
Dyed with natural dyes…
In the 20th century, less labor intensive aniline dyes were introduced…
However, now many weavers are returning to their roots — harvesting and using natural dyes.
The history, culture, and art that is yarn is alive and well and living in Teotitlán del Valle.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Travel & Tourism, tagged art installation, Carolyn Kallenborn, Erasto "Tito" Mendoza, mixed media artwork, photographs, photos, Sebastopol Center for the Arts, tapetes, textiles on August 28, 2017| 11 Comments »
In June, I finally had a chance to meet fiber artist, Carolyn Smythe Kallenborn. In 2012, I’d been captivated by and wrote a small blog post about her “Tormentos y Sueños” exhibition at the Museo Textil de Oaxaca. So, I was thrilled to meet her at the Weave a Real Peace (WARP) annual meeting held this year in Oaxaca. We chatted a couple of times during the conference, but it was the final evening, as many of us were standing in the lobby of the hotel waiting for the business meeting to begin, that Carolyn provided us with a real treat — renown weaver Erasto “Tito” Mendoza, from Teotitlán del Valle, delivered a tapete that was to be used in a collaborative work with Carolyn.
We were all in awe as he unrolled his creation for us to behold. ¡Espectacular! was the response from all. Then Carolyn began describing how she would use mixed media to embellish this woven illustration of the balance of Mother Earth. However, aside from a hazy picture in my mind, I really had no idea what the finished work would look like. Then synchronicity came to pass… an announcement that the fruit of their collaboration, Equilibrio/Balance, had won the Surface Design Association, Award of Excellence at the International Fiber Arts VIII exhibition at the San Francisco Bay Area’s Sebastopol Center for the Arts. And, best of all for me, the show coincided with my Bay Area visit. Without much difficulty, I managed to persuade B (of Week in Oaxaca fame), who had fallen in love with the tapetes of Teotitlán AND lives in Sebastopol, to accompany me to the exhibition a few days ago.
Equilibrio/Balance traces cycles of nature: water through earth and sky; elements of previous life, feeding new growth; and the conversation between the mountains and the universe above. — object label
This is one of seventy pieces in this International Fiber Arts show. Like Equilibrio/Balance, most of the works are not only visually stunning, but also have much to say about our world and contemporary life. If you are in the Bay Area and love textiles, I highly recommend making your way to the Sebastopol Arts Center by September 3, when the show closes.
Posted in Food, Markets, Travel & Tourism, tagged chocolate, chocolate beans, chocolate skulls, Conchita, food, mercado 20 de noviembre, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations on August 23, 2017| 3 Comments »
As I’ve previously mentioned, my grandson loves skeletons and skulls AND he also loves Oaxacan chocolate. Recipe for the perfect gift to take to him: Go to my favorite chocolateria, Conchita (local # 210) inside Mercado 20 de Noviembre.
Take 1 kilogram of chocolate beans, add 1 kilogram of sugar and 25 grams of cinnamon sticks, and mill in the Mexicano embalado.
Bring home a plastic bag full of warm chocolate, spread out on a cookie sheet, let cool, then cut and stamp.
A recipe for the perfect gift to bring to my Day of the Dead loving, chocoholic grandson.