Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged braiding, braids, dancers, Flor de piña, Guelaguetza, hair, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, pineapple dancers, popular travel destinations, Reyes Etla, style, travel, Tuxtepec on August 3, 2012| 7 Comments »
Oh those beautiful braids of many of the dancers in Guelaguetza! How do they do it? In Reyes Etla, trapped between a yellow caution tape barrier and the folding chairs of the Tuxtepec delegation (the pineapple dancers), the answer was revealed…
Number 1: You can’t do it yourself!
Number 2: Hair extensions! (Who knew???)
Number 3: Practiced hands.
Number 4: Patience.
But, it’s well worth the effort!
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Politics, tagged gays, Gente Diferente, homosexuality, Isthmus of Tehuantepec, Istmo, Juchitan, lesbians, LGBT, Mexico, Muxes, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, third sex, transgender, Vinnii Gaxhee on August 1, 2012| 4 Comments »
Saturday night, a spur of the moment invite from my indomitable 86-year-old neighbor had us hailing a taxi at 10:30 PM, en route to attend the 13th Gran Vela and coronation of the queen of Vinnii Gaxhee (Zapotec for “different people” — gente diferente, en español). Vinnii Gaxhee was born, according to their website, in “July 2000, when a group of people in Oaxaca, whose sexual preferences were different, met and created a group whose members were not afraid to stand up to society and publicly accept their sexual preference or orientation.” (my loose translation)
The venue, in an area of the city neither of us was familiar with, proved to be unknown to the taxi driver, as well. After a few blocks, with much conversation back and forth re the location, and a call to his dispatcher, he asked (hopefully) if we would like to find another driver. Yes, we said and crawled out, hailed another taxi, and successfully headed out to Colonia Primavera Santa Lucía del Camino.
The “suggested” per person entry donation was the purchase of a case of beer. A case of beer, we asked? Even though they were small bottles, there was no way the two of us could drink a case, let alone two cases! Well, the issue was settled when we schlepped our cases over to our assigned (not sure how or why) seating area, where we were relieved of our boxes and where they joined stacks of others. However, chilled cervesas and food were offered without charge for the duration of the evening — and into the early morning! Besides, the floor show was worth the price of admission; a banda playing traditional music of the Istmo and hot Latin rhythms had people up and dancing, a runway-style procession of contestants (at least I think that is who they were), a Rockettes-like production number, and the crowning of the queen. What more could anyone want for about $15 (US)?
On a serious note… A little background on the name of the organization, Vinnii Gaxhee. Zapotec culture has historically acknowledged a “third” sex. These are men who from childhood, “consider themselves women and live in a socially sanctioned netherworld between the two genders,” according to a 2008 New York Times article. This has been traced back to pre-Columbian times, but was mostly wiped out by the Spanish colonists, except in the region around Juchitán de Zaragoza, on the Isthmus of Tehuantepec in Oaxaca.
As Vinnii Gaxhee, explains on its website, “it is as a tribute to all those in the region of the Isthmus, who fought for a place in society, regardless of sexual preference, making this region a place where homosexuality worldwide is accepted without any remark, first by the family after by society.” (my loose translation)
(ps) I still don’t understand how anyone can walk in those high, high heels!
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Food, Travel & Tourism, tagged Feria Regional de Hongos Silvestres, food, hongos, Mexico, mushrooms, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, San Antonio Cuajimoloyas, travel on July 26, 2012| 4 Comments »
Sunday, we headed up into the clouds of Oaxaca’s Sierra Norte to San Antonio Cuajimoloyas. At 10,433 feet above sea level and nestled in a forest of pine and oak trees, the setting has an ethereal feel and seems a world apart from the valley below — almost like being in an alpine village in Switzerland.
Getting up there wasn’t easy, thanks to the bumpy and winding dirt road. However, reaching our destination, the Feria Regional de Hongos Silvestres (fair of wild mushrooms) was well worth it!
Once there, baskets, buckets, and boxes filled with freshly gathered mushrooms greeted us.
Not only was there a bounty of raw mushrooms, the aroma of sautéed mushrooms, mushroom tamales, and mushroom empanadas stimulated our appetites and we tried them all, and washed it down with an atole rojo made by this beguiling gal.
And no, these were not “magic mushrooms” but the experience was, indeed, magical.
Posted in Beverages, Celebrations, Culture, Food, Travel & Tourism, tagged Diosa Centéotl, Feria del Tejate y el Tamal, food, garrafon, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, San Andrés Huayapam, tamales, tejate, travel on July 25, 2012| 2 Comments »
Oaxaca is a foodie paradise, in major part, because much of its cuisine draws on and honors its pre-Hispanic roots. And, right now, during this time of Guelaguetza, various food and beverage ferias and festivals are also happening throughout the city and central valleys of Oaxaca. Today, on the Plaza de la Danza, the Feria del Tejate y el Tamal, celebrating these specialties of San Andrés Huayapam, opened with the usual fanfare — music, monos, a marmota, and speeches.
Present were a number of local dignitaries, including Evelyn Acosta López, the recently elected corn goddess, la Diosa Centéotl 2012, who presides over the Guelaguetza.
Tejate is a foamy, refreshing, and nutritious non-alcoholic pre-Columbian beverage made from Nixtamal corn, mixed with tree ash, and toasted cacao beans, mamey seeds, and Rosita de Cacao flowers.
One frequently sees tejate, served in these colorfully painted gourds, in the mercados of Oaxaca, at festivals, and street side stands.
And, yes, it is safe to drink. The water and ice that are added…
come from garrafons of “pure” water.
And, please, don’t be put off by the women, up to their elbows, mixing the ingredients. Just think about it… Chefs often use their hands when preparing food and arms are generally much cleaner than hands! Believe me, these women take great pride in their expertise and product.
Oh, right, there were also tamales! Once I finished taking photos and drinking a tall cup of tejate, I made my day’s tamal purchase; chepil, chichilo, and mole. Tomorrow, I will be returning for more.
The Feria del Tejate y el Tamal runs today and tomorrow at the Plaza de la Danza, then moves up to San Andrés Huayapam for Saturday and Sunday. You can find a little more information about the feria in last year’s blog post, Tejate and tamales.
And, sheesh, I still haven’t blogged about the cheese feria, mushroom feria, not to mention, the Feria Nacional del Mezcal — all of which I’ve attended during the past several days!
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, tagged desfile, Desfile de Delegaciones, Guelaguetza, Mexico, Oaxaca, Parade of Delegations, photographs, photos on July 22, 2012| 4 Comments »
A slideshow from yesterday’s Guelaguetza Parade of Delegations.
There is so much going on!
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Food, Serendipity, Travel & Tourism, tagged calenda, CANIRAC, chichilo mole, cloth balloon, Festival de los 7 Moles, food, marmotas, Mexico, mole, mole amarillo, mole coloradito, mole manchamanteles, mole negro, mole rojo, mole verde, monos, Oaxaca, parade, photographs, photos, restaurants, travel on July 21, 2012| 1 Comment »
And, then there was the Festival de los 7 Moles opening buffet lunch set amidst the beauty and tranquility of the Jardín Etnobotánico. Serendipity and synchronicity brought us there… running into a friend, conversation, investigation (see pots below), and her enthusiasm and powers of persuasion (gracias, Rosa!) had us purchasing tickets on the spot.
While kitchen staff prepared the serving platters and bowls…
Dancers gathered on the Alameda for a calenda that would lead people the luncheon.
They included a number of small children…
The calenda, including the requisite marmota (giant cloth balloon), monos (giant puppets), band, dancers with canastas (see yesterday’s post), and the sponsoring banner of CANIRAC (national association of the restaurant and food industries), made its way up the Alcalá…
before turning onto Constitución and entering the Jardín, where wait staff and divine moles awaited.
Yummm, mole negro…
There was also mole chichilo, mole manchamanteles, and mole rojo. I tried them all!!! And, I haven’t even mentioned the cervesa, mezcal, aguas, and appetizers of quesillo, chicharon, and tacos filled with guacamole and chapulines (grasshoppers). You’ll have to switch over to Chris’s blog to see those and much more. Oh, and for dessert, a scoop of each of my favorite nieves (sherbet); leche quemada (burned milk) and tuna (cactus fruit).
A day filled with light, color, music, fabulous food, and, most of all, wonderful friends — the recipe for a perfect day!
(ps) There are almost 50 restaurants around town that will be featuring mole as part of this 12-day festival.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Travel & Tourism, tagged baskets, canastas, exhibition, exhibits, flor inmortal, Guelaguetza, Las Chinas Oaxaqueñas, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, San Antonino Castillo Velasco, San Jerónimo Tlacochahuaya, San Mateo Macuilxóchitl, Zimatlán de Álvarez on July 20, 2012| 4 Comments »
It didn’t start that way; I awoke to horrifying news from Colorado. Thank goodness blogger buddy Chris called and the heart that beats in Oaxaca beckoned.
First stop was the “Al Son del Valle,” an exhibition of canastas from 17 villages in the central valleys of Oaxaca. These are baskets that are carried on the heads of women during calendas (parades); you may remember them from previous posts on the convites in Teotitlán del Valle. The art of crafting canastas and the traditions and culture they represent have been proudly and lovingly passed down through the generations.
San Antonino Castillo Velasco canasta decorated with Flor Inmortal, the flower that never dies.
Canasta from San Mateo Macuilxóchitl
From San Jerónimo Tlacochahuaya, these canastas are lit and become pinwheels of fireworks at the end of a calenda.
Canasta of Las Chinas Oaxaqueñas of the city of Oaxaca
Canasta from Tlacolula de Matamoros.
Canasta from Zimatlán de Álvarez made of crepe paper.
Muchas gracias, Oaxaca, I needed that!
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged costumes, festivals, Government Palace, Guelaguetza, Mexico, Oaxaca, Oaxaca Xaba Lulá, photographs, photos, traje on July 19, 2012| Leave a Comment »
This year marks the 80th anniversary of the modern Guelaguetza festival in Oaxaca. The calendar is filled with official Guelaguetza activities and other events that take advantage of the massive annual influx of tourists (especially from other parts of Mexico). The colorful and distinctive costumes worn by the Guelaguetza delegations from each of the 8 regions of the state of Oaxaca play a major role in wowing visitors and residents — including, me!
Huipil de San Andrés Chicahuaxtla, Putla Villa de Guerrero, Oax.
As a result, the “Oaxaca Xaba Lulá” exhibition has been mounted in the Government Palace.
Traje de la Villa Sola de Vega, Oax.
These are only a fraction of the items on exhibit and the photos were chosen primarily because they showed the least amount of reflection on the plexiglass display cases. It is a beautiful, but challenging to photograph, setting!
Huipil de San Bartolomé, Ayautla, Teotitlán, Oax.
The collection of trajes típicos (typical costumes) representing the 8 regions of Oaxaca runs through the end of the month.
Rebozo de San Juan Colorado, Jamiltepec, Oax.
The dresses, hats and accessories were donated by Oaxacan citizens from different regions of the state and were made in the traditional way, with many using natural dyes.
Huipil de Gala de San Lucas Ojitlán, Tuxtepec, Oax.
At the July 6 opening, José Zorrilla de San Martin Diego (Minister of Tourism and Economic Development), explained that they reflect a cultural essence that has prevailed for centuries in customs and traditions of the people of Oaxaca.
Funda de San Jerónimo Tecoátl, Teotitlán. Oax.
He observed that the Oaxacan costumes are a reflection of the depth of the culture, traditions, and ancestral weaving techniques that have been passed from generation to generation of Oaxacan hands.
Traje de Santa María Tlahuitoltepec, Mixe, Oax.
“The huipiles display in all their splendor the details that form a labyrinth of colors, a tiny universe that reflects the vastness of fertile nature and the symbolism that characterizes our native land and which graces the greatest festival of Oaxacaños,” Zorrilla de San Martin Diego very poetically suggested.
Huipil de Jalapa de Díaz, Tuxtepec, Oax.
Needless to say, during the next two weeks, I’m going to try to hit as many of the fairs, parades, dances, and exhibitions as possible. Stay tuned…
Posted in Buildings, Creativity, Culture, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged Centro Académico y Cultural San Pablo, Francisco Toledo, iron gates, Mexico, Oaxaca, photo, photographs, travel, video on July 17, 2012| 1 Comment »
Intricately designed and executed iron gates have been installed at either end of Antiguo Callejón de San Pablo, ushering visitors into the “Old meets new” grounds of the Centro Académico y Cultural San Pablo.
Oaxaca’s favorite son and Mexico’s foremost living artist, Francisco Toledo, narrates a video documenting the construction of the gates. It’s in Spanish, but even if you don’t understand the language, it’s worth watching, anyway.
By the way, today is Toledo’s 70th birthday. ¡Feliz cumpleaños, maestro!
Posted in Creativity, Home, Textiles, tagged Casita Colibrí, cotton dying, cotton yarn, dye bath, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, textiles, yarn dying on July 13, 2012| Leave a Comment »
Have I mentioned there is a weaving business that operates out of the apartment complex where I live? Most of the operations have recently moved offsite — apparently, not so the dying.
I returned home on Tuesday to find a fire roaring…
A dye bath roiling…
Luci and Luís rinsing and removing excess water from newly dyed cotton yarn…
And, a new view from Casita Colibrí…
Hanks now just “hanging out” above the looms…
Posted in Culture, Sports & Recreation, tagged baseball, beisbol, Guerreros de Oaxaca, Linda Oaxaca, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, sculpture of baseball players, seventh inning stretch on July 10, 2012| Leave a Comment »
MLB All Star Game is on Cablemas (Lo siento mi maestra, el idioma es el Inglés.) and players from my San Francisco Giants are kicking “you know what!” I’d hoped to take the ferry (a very civilized way to go) to a Giants’ game when I was in the Bay Area last month, but, alas, time got away from me.
Oaxaca has a Minor League team, the Guerreros de Oaxaca, a Triple-A team in the Mexican League and their stadium is within (long) walking distance. Alas, I haven’t been to one of their games this season, either! However, last week I did wander by their office; the door was open and revealed this wonderful sculpture…
By the way, during the seventh inning stretch, fans rise and sing, “Linda Oaxaca” (Beautiful Oaxaca). It always brings a smile and I’ll take it over “God Bless America” every time!
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged cargo system, cargosMexico, danzantes, Doña Marina, festivals, fiestas, La Preciosa Sangre de Cristo, Malinche, Oaxaca, patronal festividad, photographs, photos, soldados, Teotitlán del Valle, travel on July 9, 2012| Leave a Comment »
The convite (covered in the Uplifting post) is only one of the traditions of the patronal festival of La Preciosa Sangre de Cristo. During the five days of the celebration, the church is filled with floral arrangements and believers stream in and out clutching flowers; the Danza de la Pluma (with Moctezuma, Cortez, Malinche, Doña Marina, danzantes, and soldados) is performed several times; and the cargo holders of the community preside, are honored, and presented with fresh fruits, vegetables, sacred herbs, and beverages.
Sunday was another amazing day in Teotitlán del Valle. And I haven’t even mentioned the tacos and tamales we devoured during our three visits this past week!
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Religion, tagged convite, danzantes, El Picacho, festivals, fiestas, La Preciosa Sangre de Cristo, Mexico, Oaxaca, parade, patronal festividad, photographs, photos, sacred mountain, soldados, Teotitlán del Valle, travel on July 7, 2012| 10 Comments »
Late yesterday afternoon, we returned to Teotitlán del Valle for the convite (parade) of unmarried young women and girls, a part of the annual patronal festival of La Preciosa Sangre de Cristo. The sun was shining, the rains of two days before were nowhere to be seen, and the sacred mountain, El Picacho, gracefully, but commandingly, presided as the soldados and danzantes entered the church courtyard.
Bands also arrived to take part…
Canastas (baskets) were lined up, ready to be carried…
The young men of the village gathered…
Family and friends awaited…
And then the young unmarried women and girls, the stars of the evening, raised the canastas over their heads…
Balancing the canastas, they processed from the courtyard, down several long and cobblestone blocks, turned left, and headed back up another street to where they had begun, to be greeted by proud family and friends, who had gathered to acknowledge and celebrate the young women and girls of Teotitlán del Valle.
For some inexplicable reason, we never cease to feel moved and uplifted by this ritual.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged festivals, fiestas, La Preciosa Sangre de Cristo, Mexico, Oaxaca, patronal festividad, photographs, photos, Teotitlán del Valle, travel on July 5, 2012| Leave a Comment »
Yesterday, fellow blogger, Chris, and I drove out to Teotitlán del Valle for their yearly patronal festividad de La Preciosa Sangre de Cristo. The rains came and we didn’t stay long. But, as we almost always find, just being out there provides much appreciated food for the soul.
Posted in Buildings, Churches, Gardens, Weather, tagged African Tulip trees, Casita Colibrí, garden, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Templo de San José on July 4, 2012| 4 Comments »
Late yesterday afternoon; outdoor room (aka: my terrace) with a view. Ahhhhh….
And, despite the clouds above, this morning I can report, no rain for 36 hours!
Mexican Peso Converter
View From Casita Colibrí 