Posted in Agriculture, Casita Colibrí, Flora, Food, Gardens, tagged food, fruit, garden, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, piña, pineapple on April 28, 2016| 2 Comments »
Remember the pineapple growing in my rooftop container garden? Upon returning from a week-long magical mystery trip (more about that to come) last night, I discovered mi piña was more than ready to harvest.
The fragrance beckons… breakfast tomorrow!!!
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged art, graffiti, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, stickers, street art, urban art, wall art on April 24, 2016| Leave a Comment »
The murals may be disappearing, but the walls of Oaxaca continue to radiate with messages.
Oaxaca, never a dull moment and never a dull wall.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Markets, Travel & Tourism, tagged barro, Festival de la Nieve Mezcal Gastronomía, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, pottery, San Marcos Tlapazola, Tlacolula de Matamoros on April 22, 2016| 3 Comments »
A few weeks ago, blogger buddy Chris and I returned to Tlacolula de Matamoros for the 5th annual Festival de la Nieve, Mezcal, Gastronomía. Besides yummy food, ice creams, and drink there were vendors of textiles, baskets, and barro.
These are the women of San Marcos Tlapazola and their elegant and functional pottery. I already have several oft used pieces, including a comal. However, the girl in the red dress and blue apron above, talked me into a little salsa dish. How could I resist?
You can always find these women of red clay selling their wares on Sunday market day in Tlacolula and, if you are in the market for a comal, they stroll the aisles of the Mercado Benito Juárez in Oaxaca city almost everyday. That’s where I got mine!
And, if you want to see these gals in action, check out the video Mujeresdelbarrorojo.
Posted in Food, People, Restaurants, Travel & Tourism, tagged Calle de Manuel Garcia Vigil, food, Indian restaurants, Mexico, Mini Taj, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Ramesh Chawla, restaurants, road construction on April 19, 2016| 2 Comments »
As you know, I love the food of Oaxaca. However, having spent most of my life in the San Francisco Bay Area, home to cuisine from all over the world, there are times when the palate craves a little international flavor. So, I was delighted to finally try the Indian restaurant, Mini Taj, located in the Plaza Bugambilias building at Garcia Vigil 304, between Matamoros and M. Bravo.
Opened in 2012 (yes, I’m late to the party), it is the delicious creation of Chef Ramesh Chawla. Originally from Haryana, India, he was born into a caste of chefs and has been cooking and refining his talents since he was twelve years old. Chef is very exacting in his flavors and travels to the USA every two months to personally source the herbs and spices needed for his recipes.
It is well worth it. The Chicken Tikka Masala that I had last week and the Lamb Korma and Lamb Rogan Josh that my amiga J and I shared today were all exquisite. The Steamed Basmati Rice and Naan were perfectly prepared and the Mango Lassi is one of the most refreshing beverages one could ever hope to drink. If you don’t believe me, check out the rave reviews on Trip Advisor. So get thee to Mini Taj and never mind the current road construction.
Mini Taj is open 11 AM to 10 PM, Monday through Sunday. Spread the word and, as their website says, “Be prepared to be blown away.”
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Flora, Gardens, tagged cactus, flowers, garden, Mexico, Oaxaca, opuntia microdasys, photographs, photos on April 17, 2016| 2 Comments »
How could I have missed three flowers on my night blooming cereus a few nights ago??? I don’t know, but I did. However, yesterday afternoon…
My opuntia microdasys surprised and delighted me!
Posted in Buildings, Geography, Signs, Travel & Tourism, tagged Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, street signs on April 15, 2016| Leave a Comment »
Everyday, I see something new or different or odd or… Yesterday, at the corner of Av. de La Independencía and Calle Xicoténcatl, a couple of unfamiliar signs caught my eye.
High up on the corner of a building, in the middle of the city, road signs pointing to the Istmo and Tuxtepec. Just a word of warning, you are in for a long and winding drive, no matter which destination you choose.
The Istmo de Tehuantepec region of the state is approximately 250 km southeast of the City of Oaxaca. Though if you decide on Tuxtepec, it’s only 220 km northeast. Either way, head east on Independencía. ¡Buen viaje!
Posted in Buildings, Creativity, Environment, Gardens, Travel & Tourism, tagged art, Mexico, Oaxaca, painted tanks, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, tinaco, water delivery system on April 11, 2016| 8 Comments »
Old school…
New school…
Art school…
For those dying to know what the heck a tinaco is and how the water system in Mexico works:
At my apartment complex, municipal water is regularly (or, not so regularly — as the case may be) delivered though a pipe under the street into a cistern (storage tank) located under our driveway); a bomba (pump) is run daily for an hour (más o menos) to bring water from the cistern up into tinacos sitting on the various rooftops of the complex. In case you are worried, float valves keep them from overflowing (most of the time). When we turn on the tap, courtesy of gravity, water flows (or dribbles) from the tinaco into and through our faucets. ¡Ojala!
By the way, drinking water is a completely different story…
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Food, Travel & Tourism, tagged abuelas, aprons, Carnaval, Carnival, fiestas, Mexico, mole amarillo, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Teotitlán del Valle on April 8, 2016| 7 Comments »
The poster announces, Lanii xh’tee búul (La fiesta de los abuelos) — the annual Festival of the Grandparents in Teotitlán del Valle that occurs five days immediately following Easter. Pre-Hispanic in origin, masked “ancients,” in ritualistic, lively, and hilarious fashion, impart their “wisdom” to the village leaders at a grand “Danza de los Abuelos” on the municipal plaza. (If only I could “get” the jokes!)
However, prior to each evening’s merriment, a home in one of the five sections of the village hosts a feast with enough food and drink to feed an army. And, like the world over…
…we know who are the behind-the-scenes heroes of fiestas like this.
It is the abuelas with their hands, hearts, and mouthwatering recipes (like the mole amarillo, above) handed down from their grandmothers.
Even while bouncing nietos (grandchildren) on their knees, with good humor, grace, and their elaborately embroidered aprons, they make certain everyone is fed.
And, they keep a strict accounting of all that is spent!
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Health, Signs, Travel & Tourism, tagged Chikungunya, community education, Dengue, Dengue vaccine, education, health, Mexico, mosquitoes, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, wall art, Zika on April 4, 2016| Leave a Comment »
Mosquito borne diseases like Dengue, Chikungunya, and Zika continue to plague the planet. Today’s good news is a Dengue vaccine proves 100% effective in human trials. Let’s hope so!
In the meantime, understand the life cycle of mosquitoes and follow the instructions on a wall in Tlacolula de Matamoros…
Wash, cover, turn over, and eliminate!
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Easter, Girl Scouts, girls, Good Friday, Holy Week, Mexico, Oaxaca, Pascuas, photographs, photos, Procesión del Silencio, Procession of Silence, Religious standard bearer, Santo Domingo de Guzmán, Señor de La Columna, Señor de la Humildad y Paciencia, Viernes Santo on April 2, 2016| 8 Comments »
Late afternoon on Good Friday (Viernes Santo), the people began gathering along the sidewalks of the Andador Turístico (aka, the Alcalá), Allende, and Garcia Vigil, staking out a favored spot to watch the Procession of Silence. Not to worry, the Girl and Boy Scouts were there to keep everything and everybody in order and to remind one and all to “please, keep silent.”
And, lest you misbehave, there were a couple of drones hovering above the fray to record the action, both good and bad, and offering an interesting juxtaposition against Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán’s colonial architecture — the old and new of Oaxaca.
Daylight Savings Time hasn’t yet begun in Mexico and the setting sun offered dramatic light as Señor de La Columna emerged from Santo Domingo to take his place in the procession.
However, the light was fading fast as the high-pitched tones of the chirimía and the rhythmic beat of the tambor at last heralded the start of the procession and Señor de la Humildad y Paciencia made his way from Templo de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo.
As darkness fell, the street lights proved challenging and my photos of the 50+ religious banners, as they slowly passed my vantage point on Allende, left a lot to be desired, except for this littlest of standard bearers.
This year the faces of Jesús and María seemed to be lit from underneath and that helped a bit.
However, perhaps the darkness was whispering to me to stop making photos and just “be” with the experience.
This was the thirtieth year of Oaxaca’s Procesión del Silencio and so I suspect there will many more to come.
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Basilica de la Soledad, Christianity, Easter, Good Friday, Holy Week, Jesus, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, portraits, Semana Santa, Viernes Santo, Virgen de La Soledad, Virgin Mary on March 30, 2016| Leave a Comment »
Jesus and Mary up close and in color from their Viernes Santo (Good Friday) morning meeting in front of Oaxaca’s Cathedral.
I know, some photos just beg for a caption. Once all the Marys and Jesuses had gathered, prayers had been recited, and rituals performed, they all processed back to their home churches to rest up for the evening’s Procession of Silence.
… including Soledad. Since she was going my way, I walked her home.
And, yes, she made it back to the Basilica safe and sound.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Black and white photography, boys, Christianity, Easter, faces, girls, Good Friday, Holy Week, Jesus, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, portraits, Semana Santa, Viernes Santo, Virgin Mary on March 26, 2016| 2 Comments »
A few Viernes Santo (Good Friday) favorites from the morning’s encounter between Jesús and María in front of the Cathedral.
Faces that have become familiar.
Posted in Churches, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, Cathedral of Oaxaca, Holy Thursday, Holy Week, Jardín Sócrates, Jueves Santo, La catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, Maundy Thursday, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, rain, Semana Santa, Templo de San Felipe Neri, Templo de San José on March 25, 2016| 2 Comments »
Though rain began falling, clutching camera, umbrella, and my ten peso bag of pan bendito (blessed bread), I left the cozy dry confines of my apartment to join the faithful in a ritual promenade. It’s Jueves Santo (Holy Thursday, Maundy Thursday), commemorating the Last Supper of Jesus, the washing of feet, and the apprehension and imprisonment of Jesus.
San José de Gracia, Oaxaca de Juárez
Tradition in Oaxaca calls for visiting seven churches (la visita de las siete casas) with one’s pan bendito and palm leaves. The faithful use the latter to touch images of Jesús and María. This year, I again committed myself to the mission. My first stop was just around the corner at Templo de San José and the second was even easier — the Basilica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, just across the Plaza de la Danza from the former.
Watery entrance to the Basilica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, Oaxaca de Juárez
While inside, attempting (unsuccessfully) to get a good shot of Nuestra Señora, the heavens opened up in a downpour. Needless to say, I hung out with Soledad until the torrential rain calmed to only a steady drizzle.
Neverías at the Jardín Sócrates, Oaxaca de Juárez
However, the rain didn’t stop the faithful and tourists, alike, from stopping to enjoy a nieve (iced dessert) right outside the Basilica, before continuing on. I kept on moving — down the steps to Calle Independencia, on my way to the Templo de San Felipe Neri.
Exit sign at Templo de San Felipe Neri, Oaxaca de Juárez
By the way, Jueves Santo is such a big deal, to avoid gridlock from those coming and going, the churches designate one door as the “entrance” and another as the “exit.” It’s a great idea in theory but in practice, especially on a rainy night, it was almost meaningless.
Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, Oaxaca de Juárez
Next stop was across the street at the inconspicuous Iglesia San Cosme y Damián, then on to the very prominent Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, where the three front entrances were providing tourists, vendors, and believers shelter from the storm.
After navigating my way through the Cathedral, I exited stage right, dashed across the zócalo and into La Compañía (the Jesuit church). On my way out the side door, I stopped briefly to buy a bag of homemade gingersnaps and, with umbrella raised, headed to my seventh and final church of the night, El Carmen de Abajo. Though tempted by the aroma of some yummy looking food several “church ladies” were selling in the side foyer, I didn’t have enough hands to hold a paper plate, my camera, and my umbrella. So, home I went, basking in the warm feelings I always have after being with my Oaxaqueño neighbors.
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Easter, Festival of the Lord of the Redemption, Festividad del Señor del Rescate, Holy Monday, Holy Week, Lunes Santo, Mexico, Moon, Oaxaca, Pascuas, photographs, photos, processions, Semana Santa, Stations of the Cross, Via Crucis on March 22, 2016| Leave a Comment »
Lunes Santo (Holy Monday), at least here in Oaxaca, brings the Festividad del Señor del Rescate (Festival of the Lord of the Redemption). I was clueless, until I ran into my neighbor Juan as he was returning from work. He recommended that I and my camera check out the action in the vicinity of the Basílica de la Soledad. I grabbed my keys and little Lumix and off I went.
I heard the rhythmic beat of the tambor and chanted prayers before I saw El Señor and his followers paused in front of the bunker at the entrance to the Comisión de Seguridad Pública, Vialidad y Protección Civil headquarters on Av. Morelos. An ironic or fitting (?) site for the handcuffed Jesus to stop on the Víacrucis por la Reconciliación y la Paz (Way of the Cross for Reconciliation and Peace).
On this Lunes Santo, the (almost) full moon watched standard bearers navigate the maze of overhead wires as the procession continued to wind its way through the city’s streets. As for me, I returned home to eat dinner — there is so much going on, one has to pace oneself.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged animal figurines, Chia Pets, Día de la virgen de Dolores, Holy Week, Mexico, Oaxaca, papel picado, photographs, photos, Semana Santa, virgen de dolores, Virgin of Sorrows on March 19, 2016| Leave a Comment »
While technically Semana Santa (Holy Week) doesn’t begin until Sunday, the six weeks of Lent has gently ushered us toward it. Tourists, a majority from other parts of Mexico, have begun filling the streets, purple and white papel picado flutters from on high, and an artisan market has been set up on the Alcala, above Santo Domingo.
Salvia Hispanica (aka, chia) sprouting from terracotta clay animals decorates altars — seeds which were blessed on February 2 (Feast of Candelaria). According to an article in MexConnect, “Growing greens remind the viewer of the resurrection and renewal of life.” By the way, this is where the US entrepreneur who borrowed (stole) the idea and, in the late 1970s, gave the world “chia pets.”
And yesterday, the 6th Friday of Lent, El Día de la Virgen de Dolores (the Virgin of the Sorrows) was celebrated. Her tearful eyes looking to the heavens in anguished sorrow.
Tomorrow is Domingo de Ramos (Palm Sunday) and El Señor del Burrito in San Antonino Castillo Velasco beckons.
FYI: Vive Oaxaca is posting Semana Santa events on their website.
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