I’m currently on the East Coast of the USA and, contrary to those who try to divide us, as always, I love and appreciate the similarity of scenes.
“Love is the power to see similarity in the dissimilar.” –Theodor Adorno
Posts Tagged ‘photographs’
There and here
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Boston, Boston Common, Oaxaca, photographs, popular travel destinations, similarities, Theodor Adorno (quote) on June 10, 2025| 4 Comments »
People in my neighborhood
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Flora, Neighborhoods, Travel & Tourism, tagged agapanthus, Barrio de Jalatlaco, cut flowers, flower vendor, flowers in a vase, Mexico, Moises flower vendor, Oaxaca, People in Your Neighborhood (song), photographs, popular travel destinations, rosemary, street vendors on August 13, 2021| 11 Comments »
Oh, who are the people in your neighborhood?
In your neighborhood?
In your neighborhood?
Say, who are the people in your neighborhood?
The people that you meet each day
It’s Friday and I wanted to introduce you to my aforementioned flower vendor. His name is Moises and he also sells sprigs of herbs.
Today I bought two bunches of agapanthus and one of romero (rosemary). And, the Sesame Street song, People in Your Neighborhood, keeps spinning around my brain and singing in my heart.
Well, they’re the people that you meet
When you’re walking down the street
They’re the people that you meet each day.
Offerings to my departed
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged altars, calaveritas, Catrinas, cempasuchitl, Día de los Muertos, flowers, incense, marigolds, Mexico, Oaxaca, ofrenda, papel picado, photographs, photos, sugar skulls, veruche on October 31, 2018| 17 Comments »
As my grandchildren finished their trick or treating up in el norte, I put the final touches on my Día de los Muertos ofrenda (offering) here in Oaxaca.
A yellow (the color of death in pre-hispanic southern Mexico) cloth covers two chests; papel picado (cut tissue paper), signifying the union between life and death, has been added, along with the traditional flowers of Day of the Dead — cempasúchil and veruche (domesticated and wild marigolds), their scent to guide the spirits, and cockscomb to symbolize mourning. Visitors brought the sunflower and, since my grandfather, father, and father-in-law were avid gardeners, it is for them!
There is salt to make sure the souls stay pure and chocolate, peanuts, pecans, apples, mandarin oranges, and pan de muertos (Day of the Dead bread) to nourish them.
The sweet smell of copal incense and its smoke help guide my loved ones to the feast I have prepared. And, there is water to quench their thirst, as they travel between worlds, not to mention mezcal and cervesa (beer).
But, most important of all, there are the tangible remembrances of my departed — photos and some of their favorite things.
Revolutionary catrina and catrin for my revolutionary comadre and compadre, Sylvia and Nat.
Yarn and a crochet hook for my dear grandmother who many of the abuelas (grandmothers) in Oaxaca remind me of — always wearing an apron, never wearing pants, and incredibly adept with crochet and embroidery thread. And, for my adored grandfather, a San Francisco Giants baseball cap. My grandparents moved next door at the same time the Giants moved from New York to San Francisco and grandpa and I listened to many games together on his transistor radio, as I helped him in the garden.
There are other cherished friends and relatives on my altar, but pride of place goes to my parents. For my father, who was killed when I was only two and a half, there is beer (below the above photo) — alas Victoria not Burgermeister! And for my mother, a fan to cool herself as she dances and a bottle of port to sip before she sleeps.
It’s been a two-day labor of love as I wanted everything to be perfect for my difutos (departed) to find their way and feel welcome in my Oaxaca home.
Today’s heroes
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged El Chapulín Colorado, graffiti, Javier Valdez, journalists, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, stencil art, street art, wall art on September 19, 2018| 6 Comments »
The gods…
and superheroes like El Chapulín Colorado have had their day.
Today, the walls of Oaxaca remind us that it is journalists who are on the front lines — uncovering truth, advocating for justice, and often paying with their lives.
“Cuando un pais tiene ganas de gritar hay personas que no pueden callar.” (When a country wants to scream there are people who cannot remain silent.) — the late Mexican journalist, Javier Valdez.
Journalists in the USA, are you listening?
Viva Mexico
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism, tagged Chiles en Nogada, El Mes de la Patria, Mexican Independence Day, Mexico, Oaxaca, patriotic decorations, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, street vendors on September 13, 2018| 8 Comments »
On September 16, Mexico celebrates Día de la Independencia — marking Father Hidalgo’s call to arms (Grito de Dolores) to begin the ten-year war for independence from Spain. However, the entire month of September is El Mes de la Patria (the month of the homeland) and streets and vendor stalls are awash with the green, white, and red of the Mexican flag.
Last week, walking down to Mercado Benito Juárez to pick up a few last-minute regalitos (little gifts) to bring up to family and friends in el norte, within two blocks I saw…
There is even a very yummy green, white, and red patriotic dish that appears in restaurants in September — Chiles en nogada. I’m hoping it will still be on the menu when I return at the end of the month from the el norte trip.
Cosijo & la Virgen María
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Danza de la Pluma, danzantes, Doña Marina, Fiesta a la Natividad de la Virgen María, La Malinche, Mexico, Moctezuma, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Preciosa, Teotitlán del Valle on September 8, 2018| 6 Comments »
The very dry rainy season continues and is the major topic of conversation among anyone who has any connection to la tierra (the land). However, during today’s Fiesta a la Natividad de la Virgen María in Teotitlán del Valle, the Zapotec god Cosijo answered the prayers for rain.
The sky darkened over Templo de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo
Moctezuma (Sergio Gutiérrez Bautista) danced the story of the Conquest.
Doña Marina (Elizabeth Hernández Gutiérrez) danced her part.
The rain began to seriously fall and the plastic penacho (headdress) covers came out in force, but the danzantes continued to dance.
Comida (lunch break) came just in time, the sun came out, and Malinche (Quetzali del Rayo Santiago Ruiz) graciously posed for photos.
And, Javier Gutiérrez Hernandez (dance master, choreographer, former danzante, and father of Moctezuma) posed with his son’s penacho.
A little means a lot, though probably not enough to salvage this season’s milpa (field of corn, beans, and squash). But, when your culture dates back at least 2,500 years, you take a long view of history.
Women of the walls
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged crumbling walls, Mexico, Mexico City, murals, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, street art, urban art, wall art, women's faces on September 5, 2018| 6 Comments »
A local’s guide to Mexico City: 10 tips describes a mural project by Aida Mulato and Jóvenes Artesanos to help rehabilitate her Roma neighborhood following the September 2017 earthquakes. According to the article, “The colourful murals celebrate indigenous communities and women, who continue to suffer most from the earthquakes. The project supports the larger goals of Jóvenes Artesanos and gives various support to about 150 artisans with whom Mulato works. With 15 murals painted already, the goal is to create a circuit of 68, representing the country’s indigenous populations.”
What an enlightened and wonderful contrast to the game of cat and mouse, street mural artists have been facing here in Oaxaca for the past few years, where many (including me) have been asking, are Color and culture, unwelcome? However, while they may be more ephemeral than we would wish, artists are still at work on the sides of our own crumbling buildings, and murals still can be found on the walls of Oaxaca.
Enjoy them while you can, they may be gone tomorrow.
Village churches, plain to painted
Posted in Buildings, Churches, Creativity, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged churches, iglesias, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, San Marcos Tlapazola, San Miguel del Valle, Santa Ana Zegache on September 1, 2018| 6 Comments »
You know you are nearing a village when you see the bell tower(s) and dome of the Catholic church. Checking out the church is always high on the agenda. Many were originally constructed in the sixteenth century, though damage, restoration, and decoration have occurred over intervening centuries. And, don’t forget the details…
So, while attending the Feria del Barro Rojo in San Marcos Tlapazola in mid-July, we peeked through the locked gates, to see the Templo San Marcos.
Then off to San Miguel del Valle on a Fundación En Vía microfinance tour in early August and another church through another locked gate.
The piéce de résistance… We headed to the first food feria in Santa Ana Zegache in mid August. Alas, we arrived hours too early for the food, but we consoled ourselves with visiting their Baroque 17th century church (no locked gate) that was fabulously restored in the 1990s by the Rodolfo Morales Foundation.
All beautiful and unique. So, the lesson for today is, whenever you find yourself in a village in Oaxaca, be sure to check out the church.
Art of books
Posted in Books, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Biblioteca de la Fundación Bustamante Vasconcelos, book art, book sculptures, books, libraries, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on August 29, 2018| 2 Comments »
Open doors always draw the eye; you never know what you will see. Peering through doorway of the Biblioteca de la Fundación Bustamante Vasconcelos, never disappoints. Across the courtyard, seasonal book sculptures can often be seen. Currently, celebrating July’s Guelaguetza, a Tehuana’s bookish hand holds her jicapextle aloft.
Last October, with Día de Muertos coming up, a calavera was a book work in progress, with William Shakespeare playing a bit part.
Guelaguetza 2017 brought a danzante from the Danza de la Pluma — his neck braced by the blue and rather appropriate book, “El Tesoro de Monte Albán.”
There have also been Christmas trees and crosses, so stay tuned. And, if you are in town, stop by the Biblioteca de la Fundación Bustamante Vasconcelos at Labastida 117 (across from the plazuela) — even if there isn’t a book sculpture, there are usually artisans set up in the entrance, and there is always the library to check out, says this librarian.
Sky of almost rain
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Travel & Tourism, Weather, tagged Basilica de la Soledad, clouds, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, weather on August 26, 2018| 6 Comments »
Alas, the massive tormenta (thunderstorm) that hit the city two weeks ago was a one hit wonder, despite predictions of rain almost every day. This evening, yet again, clouds gathered but only a drop or two fell.
Looking south…
Looking southwest…
Looking southeast…
Guess it’s time for a mezcal offering to Cosijo. Hope you will join me!
Grand opening, Teotitlán style
Posted in Buildings, Celebrations, Culture, Museums, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged Abigail Mendoza, Centro Cultural Comunitario de Teotitlán del Valle, cultural center, dancers, Danza de la Pluma, danzantes, desfile, Lila Downs, Mexico, Oaxaca, parade, photographs, photos, Teotitlán del Valle, toritos on August 22, 2018| 11 Comments »
Saturday saw the inauguration of the long awaited Centro Cultural Comunitario de Teotitlán del Valle (CCCTV). We, along with the citizens of this Zapotec community, have been wondering and watching the progress of the building, located between the municipal building and tapete (rug) vendor stalls, for 3+ years.
To begin the celebration, a desfile departed from the plaza in front of the new center, wound its way through the streets of Teotitlán, and returned to its starting point almost an hour later. Parading through town, there were kids and abuelas…
Community leaders and villagers…
And neighboring municipality, Tlacolula de Matamoros, participating with one of their gigantic marmotas and dancers.
There were two bands supplying a marching rhythm and soundtrack — the first to lead the procession and, at the tail, Los Reformistas, accompanying the Danza de la Pluma Promesa 2016-2018.
The danzantes danced their way onto the plaza and performed.
Then villagers and visitors settled down for words of welcome by community leaders and the new cultural center director Abigail Mendoza (yes, the world famous cocinera), food and drink prepared by the women of Teotitlán, and a moving song by Lila Downs, a madrina of the inauguration.
Lila Downs and Abigail Mendoza
By the way, several times during the event, Teotitecos proudly informed me that besides the CCCTV’s newly elected director, all the members of the cultural center’s governing committee are women.
Centro Cultural Comunitario director Abigail Mendoza (far left) and her committee.
There were musical performances and then a ribbon cutting to formally open the CCCTV — a building that was awarded the 2017 Cemex first place in the category of Collective Space, Gold Medal in the 3rd edition of the Architecture Biennial of Mexico City 2017, and the Silver Medal in the 15th edition of the National and International Biennial of Mexican Architecture 2018 (Centro Cultural de Teotitlán del Valle, Oaxaca).
Attempting to photograph the ribbon cutting
Mission statement of the CCCTV
At long last, the Centro Cultural Comunitario de Teotitlán del Valle was open to the public — and they poured in to view the spaces, exhibits, and Pablo Picasso community library.
However, that was far from the end of the celebration! A mini Guelaguetza began with the (above mentioned) delegation from Tlacolula, followed by the folkloric group, Grupo Dancistico Ritmo de Mi Raza, showcasing dances from the eight regions of the state of Oaxaca, and finished with an encore performance by Teotitlán’s Danza de la Pluma Promesa.
Dance from Huautla de Jiménez
Dance from the Mixe
Dance from Pinotepa Nacional
Jarabe del Valle, Chinas Oaxaqueñas
The celebration ended 10+ hours after it began, with the abuelas (seen above), village leaders, and the Cultural Center Committee dancing the jarabe in front of the municipal building, accompanied by the exploding sights and sounds of toritos dancing in the plaza, a few steps below.
In addition to permanent exhibits and library, the CCCTV also includes gardens, a store, meeting spaces, and will host temporary exhibitions, along with ongoing cultural and educational activities for children, youth, and adults.
Dreams of victory
Posted in Creativity, Culture, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged Efedefroy, Jorge Negrete, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, street art, wall art on August 18, 2018| 4 Comments »
I meant to post this during the World Cup. But, for a couple of reasons, you can file this under “the best laid plans of mice and (wo)men.”
On the wall outside the Salon de la Fama cantina (corner of M. Bravo and Porfirio Diaz), artist Efedefroy captured the mashup dreams of Mexican football (soccer) fans. The beloved singer/actor Jorge Negrete, wearing the jersey of El Tri and hoisting the 2018 World Cup. Alas, despite the “María” tattoo (La Virgen? No, probably 3rd wife María Félix), it was not to be.
Asleep among apples
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged apples, Catedral Metropolitana de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, Cathedral of Oaxaca, Feast of the Assumption, harvest celebrations, La Asunción de la Virgen María, La Virgen María, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Templo de San Matías Jalatlaco, Virgin Mary on August 15, 2018| 11 Comments »
Late yesterday afternoon a neighbor and I taxied across town to the sweet little Templo de San Matías Jalatlaco for an organ concert presented by the Instituto de Órganos Históricos de Oaxaca in honor of La Asunción de la Virgen María (Feast of the Assumption). Once there, we ran into a couple of friends. The combined length of time the four of us had lived in Oaxaca totaled over 80 years (with me being the most recent, at nine years). I point this out because none of us knew why apples accompanied the image of Mary. Hmmm… Could it possibly have something to do with Eve in the Garden of Eden, we wondered?
Of course, the librarian in me couldn’t resist doing a little research. So, first stop on this morning’s grocery shopping trip to Mercado Benito Juárez, was a stop at Oaxaca’s Cathedral to see if the Virgin there also had apples to send her on her way. After all, the full name is Catedral Metropolitana de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción (Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption). Sure enough, Mary stood among bushels of apples.
The origin of the connection between Mary’s Assumption and apples is rather ambiguous. In sifting through the various explanations that Google found for me, la Virgen is considered the “New Eve” or “new Mother of men.” Wow, our speculation wasn’t too far from the mark. It is also said that when Mary drifted off to her final sleep, the cenacle (room the Last Supper was held) began to give off the scent of flowers and apples and, thus the tradition reminds believers of the moment of La Asunción.
Then there is the pragmatic explanation — this is the time of the summer harvest and “In many Catholic countries Assumption Day marks the period for invoking blessings on vineyards, herbs and plants… [and] In the East, where the Assumption Feast originated, the day is commemorated with elaborate ceremonies for blessing fruit trees and grain.” European colonists brought apples to the New World and they are abundant this time of year — thus Mary asleep among apples.
No matter the story behind this tradition, the aroma of apples was divine!
Hitchin’ a ride…
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Colibríes, hummingbirds, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, tourism on August 12, 2018| Leave a Comment »
On the hummingbird express, they came, they saw, and they spent money.
From the streets of Oaxaca… Hummingbird on the side of a tour van.
The hordes of Guelaguetza visitors and their tour vans and buses have departed, leaving streets a little easier to navigate and hotels breathing a big sigh of relief at their 99% occupancy rate. Hopefully, restaurants, shopkeepers, and artisans are also smiling. I’m still recovering!
At long last lluvia!!!
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Travel & Tourism, Weather, tagged garden, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, rain, rainy season on August 10, 2018| 4 Comments »
It’s been a rainy season that “is not” more than “is.” However, tonight around 6:00 PM, I heard the unmistakable sound of rain and looked out the window.
This is incredibly good news for the mostly subsistence farmers in the valley of Oaxaca, as crops have been struggling and reservoirs are low.
The lack of rain has even impacted weavers who rely on plants, rather than chemicals, to dye their yarn.
We have also had a little hail along with continuing thunder and lightning.
Two hours and counting… Giving thanks to Cocijo (Zapotec god of rain, thunder, and lightning) and hoping this isn’t a one hit wonder.
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