A mile or two from the city are fields of corn; a recurring reminder of where the masa used to make tortillas, tamales, and other mealtime staples, comes from. Livestock roam the hills and are often seen being herded down the streets of local villages.

And, at the foot of the stairs of my new apartment is a coyuche bush — the brown cotton plant that has been cultivated in this part of the world for thousands of years.

The ripe buds of the coyuche have been harvested, cleaned, spun, and woven into huipiles and cotones (men’s shirts) by countless generations. However, like many textile traditions, industrialization has taken its toll. The cultivation and use of coyuche is literally hanging by a thread, mostly confined to the Mixteca and Costa Chica regions of Oaxaca. As a result, besides just liking the design and color, I have a profound appreciation for and treasure this old huipil that was given to me a couple of years ago.

It’s in desperate need of repair. My friend and Mexican textile collector and chronicler, Sheri Brautigam, advised me to take it to Odilon Merino Morales, who is from San Juan Amuzgo and leads an effort to revive the use of coyuche. I will ask him if he knows of someone who could give my huipil some tender loving mending.
Living close to the source — there is something wonderful about the coyuche plant’s daily reminder of the origin of one of my favorite huipiles.
Posted in Agriculture, Creativity, Culture, People, Science & Nature, Textiles, Travel & Tourism | Tagged costumes, cotton, coyuche, goat herder, goats, huipil, livestock, Mexico, Oaxaca, Odilon Merino Morales, photographs, photos, plants, San Juan Amuzgo, Sheri Brautigam, traje | 5 Comments »
Today is International Women’s Day…
Mural on the wall outside the Comisión Nacional para el Desarrollo de los Pueblos Indígenas, Delegación Oaxaca, on Heroico Colegio Militar in Col. Reforma.
¡Feliz el Día Internacional de la Mujer!
Posted in Buildings, Creativity, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Comisión Nacional para el Desarrollo de los Pueblos Indígenas, Día Internacional de la Mujer, International Women's Day, Mexico, murals, National Commission for the Development of Indigenous Peoples, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, public art, street art, urban art | 1 Comment »

Can be found at…

Posted in Creativity, Culture, Signs, Travel & Tourism | Tagged graffiti, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, street art, street signs, urban art, wall art | 4 Comments »
Yesterday was another of the “ya just never know…” days. Returning to the city from Xoxocotlán after looking at the house my (soon-to-be-former) neighbor is building, the taxi driver pointed down Independencia and said something that we interpreted as, “day of the garbage collector.” So, instead of going home, my camera and I walked in the direction he pointed and, sure enough, a side street was lined with decorated garbage trucks.



However, this day wasn’t for just any old garbage collectors; being March 3rd, it celebrated the founding of the Sindicato Independiente 3 de Marzo of the municipality of Oaxaca. Depending on which newspaper report one reads, it is either the 34th, 38th, or 39th anniversary.

These are the city workers who keep the state’s capital clean — the garbage collectors, street sweepers, drivers, and laborers. And, the city of Oaxaca IS clean, putting San Francisco to shame! After a Thanksgiving mass, most of the 1,200 “trabajadores de limpia” and their families filled the plaza in front of the Basilica de la Soledad. And, like all good Oaxacan celebrations, there were monos, dancers, marmotas, bands, toritos, and the whistles, whirrs, and booms of fireworks (of the all bang, no bling variety).





So, now you know where to be and what to do next March 3rd!
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Parks & Plazas, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Basilica de la Soledad, celebrations, dancers, Día del Barrendero, garbage collectors, garbage trucks, marmotas, Mexico, monos, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Sindicato Independiente 3 de Marzo, street sweepers, toritos | 9 Comments »
It’s the dry season, no rain in a couple of months, and we are reminded how sacred and precious water is.

At the top of the wave:
“Fluye hermana agua de las nubes a la tierra y de la tierra a las nubes.” (Sister water flowing from the clouds to earth and from the earth to the clouds.)
A line from the poem, Oración al sagrado elemento agua.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Science & Nature, Travel & Tourism, Weather | Tagged dry season, Mexico, Oaxaca, Oración al sagrado elemento agua, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, SAGA, street art, urban art, wall art, water | Leave a Comment »
February 28, 2013 by spixl
Today, Pope Benedict XVI, the head of the Roman Catholic church rode off into the sunset. (Actually, he flew off in a helicopter.) And, naturally, the walls of Oaxaca had something to say…

This was pasted on a wall right across from the south entrance to Santo Domingo de Guzmán. The walls are never silent.
By the way, I did a Twitter search for the hashtag afterPopequit, but came up empty.
Posted in Churches, Creativity, Culture, People, Religion | Tagged current-events, illustrations, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, political commentary, Pope Benedict XVI, street art, Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán, wall art | Leave a Comment »
February 25, 2013 by spixl
The little Embraer may have touched down in Oaxaca late Saturday night but, in the words of a long ago Buffalo Springfield song, I’m still “flying on the ground.”
Moving two days before a California and New York trip… What was I thinking?
Posted in Buildings, Creativity, Culture, Music, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Academia de Arte Musical, art, Buffalo Springfield, Mexico, mural, music, Oaxaca, photographs, photos | Leave a Comment »
February 21, 2013 by spixl
Pop culture stickers are, “ubiquitous in urban centers around the world. Often seen at eye level or just beyond reach, stickers grace most every imaginable surface of the built environment.” [Digital Collections Street Art Graphics]
As you can see, Oaxaca is no exception.

Jimmy and María Sabina, I know. — even got to see Hendrix perform twice, back in the day.

But, that qualifies me as being “certain age” and so most of the references escape me.
And, what’s with the skull and cross-bones? Rebellion? Symbol of a toxic culture?? Perhaps. But, like Che, one now sees them everywhere — even on toddler clothes. Co-opted, again!
Posted in Creativity, Culture, People, Signs | Tagged art, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular culture, stickers, street art, street signs, urban, urban art | Leave a Comment »
February 19, 2013 by spixl
In 1999, UNESCO designated February 21 as International Mother Language Day. Tomorrow, February 20, Oaxaca begins her own celebration of Día Internacional de la Lengua Materna 2013 with a 2-day conference.

The issue of “lenguas maternas” has a particular resonance in Oaxaca, as the state is home to 16 distinct ethnolinguistic groups: Amuzgos, Chatino, Chinanteco, Chocho, Chontal, Cuicateco, Huave, Ixcateco, Mazateco, Mixe, Mixteco, Náhuatl, Popoloca, Triqui, Zapoteco, and Zoque. As anyone who has visited the villages of Oaxaca has discovered, sometimes the abuelos and abuelas only speak their native language, not Spanish.
However, as Ernestina Gaitán Cruz notes in an article in sinembargo.mx, most of these indigenous languages lack an alphabet, having been passed from one generation to another through an oral tradition, and because these “Mother Tongues” are not taught in the schools, a significant number of these languages are in danger of becoming extinct.
Oaxaca is not alone. From the article, Indigenous Youth Step up to Protect their Roots:
UNESCO estimates that every two weeks, one language disappears from the world.
Education systems have historically played a large part in the disappearance of indigenous languages, sometimes even forcing their extinction by severely punishing and shaming children for speaking native tongues or expressing indigenous identity in any way.
<snip>
In some communities where a large portion of the population speaks only the native language, another issue arises: access to important information on topics such as health care, employment opportunities, legal rights and public services.
And, it isn’t just a particular community that suffers, as The Endangered Languages Project explains, The disappearance of a language means the loss of valuable scientific and cultural information.

Zapotec village of Teotitlán del Valle
One of the missions of the Centro Académico y Cultural San Pablo in the city of Oaxaca is to document, study, and preserve the indigenous languages of Oaxaca. The center includes a library, offers language classes, and will be hosting several events during Día Internacional de la Lengua Materna 2013.

Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Education, Language | Tagged articles, Centro Académico y Cultural San Pablo, Día Internacional de la Lengua Materna 2013, Endangered Languages Project, ethnolinguistic groups, indigenous peoples, Indigenous Youth Step up to Protect their Roots, International Mother Language Day, language, lengua materna, Mexico, Mother Tongue, native tongues, Oaxaca, San Pablo Academic and Cultural Center, UNESCO | 2 Comments »
February 16, 2013 by spixl
The sun is shining, but it’s cold. With snow on the ground, I’m living inside. I’m definitely not in Oaxaca anymore! I’m outside of Saratoga Springs, New York. Yes, I traded the land of blue skies, brilliant colors, warm temps, and open doors and windows, for ten days in the frigid, fifty shades of gray, northeast — but for the best of reasons, my grandson’s first birthday. However, I need my Oaxaca fix! So, with a little time on my hands (nap time for baby) I am going through Noche de Rabanos photos. And, these little devils, jumped out at me. (Gosh, I have no idea why!)
These dancers portray La Danza de los diablos, a dance that is the result of a fascinating fusion of African and Sonoran rituals.
They are made of dried corn husks
and were created by Moisés Ruiz Sosa. The detail is amazing!
La Danza de los Diablos de Santiago Juxtlahuaca won second prize in the 2012 Totomoxtle Decorado division.
Ooops! The adorable little devil who melts this heart just woke up. Time to do the crawling-around-on-the-floor dance.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Travel & Tourism | Tagged Danza de los diablos, Devil's Dance, dried corn husks, Mexico, Moisés Ruiz Sosa, Noche de Rabanos, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Santiago Juxtlahuaca, Totomoxtle | 7 Comments »
February 14, 2013 by spixl
Got your hearts? Yes!

Got your flowers? Yes!

Got your candy? Yes!

¡Feliz Día del Amor y la Amistad! (Happy day of love and friendship!)
(ps) To expand your linguistic skills, learn Frases de amor y amistad en 7 lenguas indígenas mexicanas — including Mixe, Mixteco, and Zapoteco.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Travel & Tourism | Tagged balloons, candy, Día del Amor y la Amistad, flowers, holidays, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, tulips, Valentine's Day | 3 Comments »
February 13, 2013 by spixl
It may not be Oaxaca, but there is some major league urban art celebrating Major League Baseball’s 2012 World Series champion, San Francisco Giants. The mural, by the Ex-Vandals, currently can be seen at Columbus at Union Street in San Francisco’s, North Beach neighborhood.
But, did the city’s Planning Commission have to deface the mural with its Notice of Public Hearing? Couldn’t they have posted their notice in a more discrete location? Honestly, have they no respect?!!
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Sports & Recreation, Travel & Tourism | Tagged baseball, California, Ex-Vandals, graffiti, North Beach, photographs, photos, San Francisco, San Francisco Giants, street art, urban art | Leave a Comment »
February 10, 2013 by spixl
One of the biggest challenges of the recent move was carrying 150+ potted plants down two flights of stairs, across the driveway, and up a flight of stairs. They ranged in size from eight to eighteen inches across and ten to twenty-four inches tall. Needless to say, major respect was given to the cactus and their perilous spikes. However, I also gave special care to my two pots by the late potter, Dolores Porras.

Growing up and spending her life in one of the villages of Oaxaca known for working in clay, Santa María Atzompa, her style was unique in the use of color and imagery — a touch of whimsy wherever her pots are found.

If you will be in Oaxaca tomorrow (Feb. 11, 2013), be sure to stop by the Oaxaca Lending Library to see Michael Peed discuss and show his documentary, Dolores Porras: Artista Artesana de Barro. And, if you’re not lucky enough to be there, check out the website for the film’s trailer.

Posted in Creativity, Culture, Gardens, People, Travel & Tourism | Tagged ceramic pottery, de barro, Dolores Porras, Dolores Porras DVD, Mexico, Oaxaca, Oaxaca Lending Library, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, potted plants, Santa María Atzompa | 2 Comments »
February 8, 2013 by spixl
Oaxaca is mourning the loss of painter, Juan Alcázar Méndez, who succumbed to complications related to diabetes yesterday.

Juan Alcázar Méndez. Photo from Consejo Nacional para la Cultura y las Artes
Alcázar was born in Guadalupe Etla, Oaxaca in 1955 and entered the School of Fine Arts at the University Benito Juarez of Oaxaca at the age of 13. He became known for his unique magic realism style.

Painting from fundraising auction by the Oaxaca Lending Library, 2010
He was the founder of the Taller Rufino Tamayo, el Taller de Gráfica en la Casa de la Cultura, and the Taller Libre de Gráfica Oaxaqueña. He was also one of the artists exhibited in the The Magic Surrealists of Oaxaca show at the Mexican Consulate in San Francisco in 2012.

“El Rapto” from the The Magic Surrealists of Oaxaca exhibition 2012, San Francisco, CA.
RIP, Juan Alcázar Méndez. You will be missed but your magic will live on.
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, People | Tagged art, artists, arts, exhibitions, Juan Alcázar Méndez, mexican consulate in san francisco, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, San Francisco, The Magic Surrealists of Oaxaca | Leave a Comment »
February 5, 2013 by spixl
43 houses at risk of collapse, the October 2012 Noticias headline screamed! This is up from 23 dangerous old buildings discussed in my July 2011, Old and dangerous post. The “high degree of deterioration” of properties in the historic district of Oaxaca seems to be an annual topic.
The most recent article came at the end of the 2012 rainy season and the article noted that in the preceding week the walls of two abandoned houses had collapsed due to the softening of building materials. I’m pretty sure the bottom right photo is of one of those walls. And 6 months later, it’s still in the same state of disrepair.
Picturesque? Yes! Dangerous??? Oh, yes!!!
Posted in Buildings | Tagged abandoned buildings, buildings, dangerous, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos | 3 Comments »
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Sign of the times
February 28, 2013 by spixl
Today, Pope Benedict XVI, the head of the Roman Catholic church rode off into the sunset. (Actually, he flew off in a helicopter.) And, naturally, the walls of Oaxaca had something to say…
This was pasted on a wall right across from the south entrance to Santo Domingo de Guzmán. The walls are never silent.
By the way, I did a Twitter search for the hashtag afterPopequit, but came up empty.
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Posted in Churches, Creativity, Culture, People, Religion | Tagged current-events, illustrations, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, political commentary, Pope Benedict XVI, street art, Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán, wall art | Leave a Comment »