“It’s a beautiful day in the neighborhood.”
A winter Sunday in Oaxaca.
Archive for the ‘Travel & Tourism’ Category
As Mr. Rodgers sang…
Posted in Culture, Parks & Plazas, Travel & Tourism, Weather, tagged Carmen Abajo, Mexico, Mr. Rodgers quote, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, zócalo on January 26, 2014| 2 Comments »
Divorced eggs???
Posted in Culture, Food, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged Dolores Porras DVD, food, Hotel las Golondrinas, huevos divorciados, Mexico, Michael Peed, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on January 23, 2014| 8 Comments »
Sí, huevos divorciados! A little food porn to begin the day…
Early morning walk up to Hotel las Golondrinas yesterday morning for breakfast. Surrounded by the distinctive pottery of Dolores Porras, it was the perfect setting to meet Michael Peed, filmmaker of the documentary, Dolores Porras: Artista Artesana de Barro.
Esquipulas espectacular
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Black Christ, fireworks, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Señor de Esquipulas, Templo del Carmen Alto on January 21, 2014| 3 Comments »
As promised, the fireworks on Sunday night at Templo del Carmen Alto celebrating Señor de Esquipulas were, indeed, espectacular! But, you may be asking, “Who is he and why does he deserve such celebration and veneration?”
Esquipulas refers to a town in Guatemala where, prior to the arrival of the Spanish, the peoples of Mesoamerica worshiped the god Ek Chua. After the Conquest, in 1594, Quirio Cataño was commissioned to carve a sculpture of Jesus on the cross for Esquipulas. Legend has it that Cataño used dark wood so that it looked more like the indigenous residents of the area. Another version of the story has the sculpture turning dark overnight to “please the children from the village of Esquipulas.” However, during a recent restoration of the image it was determined that it was centuries of smoke from candles and being touched by the faithful that turned the original light wood, dark.
Señor de Esquipulas from Templo Carmen Alto, Oaxaca — Procession of Silence, Good Friday 2013
Various miracles have been attributed to Señor de Esquipulas and pilgrims descend on the small Guatemalan village from Central America and Mexico to venerate the Black Christ. He has a long reach and replicas have been commissioned in Costa Rica, El Salvador, Mexico, Nicaragua, and even as far away as Venezuela for the faithful to worship.
I’m not sure how Carmen Alto in Oaxaca came to house a Señor de Esquipulas, but it does and they go all out celebrating. Processions and special masses have been held during the week. However, the big festival day is January 19 and it began with early morning rockets at 6 AM — Alegres mañanitas in honor of the Señor de Esquipulas. The eucharist was celebrated at 7 AM, 8 AM, and 12 PM — the latter “For the peace of the world and for all the infirmed.” Cultural events were held during the day and there was another eucharist at 7 PM. Following the evening eucharist, Señor de Esquipulas was carried through the streets of the parish, accompanied by a band, monos, and believers.
Once they returned to Carmen Alto’s courtyard, it was “torito” time. The little bull holding up part of the castillo-under-construction in my last blog post, was ready to take center stage. Encircled by a brave crowd, for twenty to thirty minutes he danced and ran around the plaza spewing sparks at those in the line of fire.
Next up was two castillos, multi-story structures wired for a major sensory experience — light, sound, and much welcome heat, on a chilly night. Peace seemed to be a theme this year, with wheel appendages spelling out, “Violence no more” and “All united for peace.” This year there was even a prerecorded soundtrack. A young couple, on a cycling trip from Vancouver to Argentina, recognized it as music from a movie that I hadn’t heard of — however, they seemed quite surprised and delighted.
The flaming tops of each castillo eventually spun off into the night, as a fabulous fireworks display lit up the sky.
The show put on for Señor de Esquipulas was spectacular!
Danger / Peligro
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Black Christ, fireworks, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Señor de Esquipulas, Templo del Carmen Alto on January 19, 2014| 4 Comments »
Beware, anyone in the vicinity of Carmen Alto church tonight…
There’s going to be some major fireworks!!!
Oaxaca is celebrating the Black Christ, Señor de Esquipulas.
Has this post got legs?
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Restaurants, Travel & Tourism, tagged bar stools, Eartha Kitt quote, Fred Astaire video, La Condesa Oaxaca, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, restaurant on January 17, 2014| 2 Comments »
And now for a little levity…
Seen through the window of La Condesa restaurant and bar in Oaxaca.
I love to tease men with my legs. — Eartha Kitt
I keep waiting for the bar stools to break out into a tap dance routine. A friend posted this video on Facebook yesterday of Fred Astaire tapping and drumming — at the same time! I wonder what he would have done with these stools?
Work in progress
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Travel & Tourism, tagged art, Gorilla Gallery, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, urban art, Yescka on January 13, 2014| Leave a Comment »
Urban artist, Yescka, at work on December 20, 2013 at Gorilla Gallery in Oaxaca…
Live action painting from the back of the glass, a devilish Virgen de Guadalupe emerges…
From the back and from the front, La Virgen is finished.
Yescka then turned to one of the gallery’s windows; outside looking in and inside looking out.
Like street art, these works are not forever. In a month (or so), the virgin will be disappeared and another artist will come to Gorilla Gallery to create another ephemeral masterpiece.
Gorilla Gallery is at Crespo 213 and is open on Thursdays, from 2:00 – 8:0 PM.
Pop-up parade
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Education, Travel & Tourism, tagged calenda, Mexico, Oaxaca, parade, photographs, photos, Universidad La Salle Oaxaca on January 11, 2014| 2 Comments »
Walking down the Alcalá… on the way home late yesterday afternoon… sounds of a band… I look up towards Santo Domingo… and see a calenda coming down the street.
Universidad La Salle Oaxaca on parade. Reason # 552 why I love living here!
Who is that woman?
Posted in Culture, History, Parks & Plazas, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged Benito Juárez, Brigida Garcia de Juárez, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos on January 9, 2014| 1 Comment »
At a busy intersection, on a small concrete island, sits the bust of a woman. Who is she?
This is where Pino Suarez and República both meet Niños Heroes, traffic comes in at “unnatural” angles, and my attention is usually laser focused on attempting to look in the right direction, deciphering which traffic lights do what, and keeping my adrenalin in check as I determine the safest moment to dash across each street.
However, a few days ago, on my return to El Centro, after having walked far up into Colonia Reforma, I decided to take a break and investigate. Just who is this indigenous woman who presides from her triangular perch.
Meet Brigida Garcia de Juárez, from the mountain village of Guelatao, Oaxaca — mother of Oaxaca’s beloved favorite son and Mexico’s revered former president, Benito Pablo Juárez García. She died when he was only three years old.
The plaque that rests at the base of the monument reads, “Madre de Benemérito de America – H. Ayuntamiento – 1984. Mother of the distinguished national hero of modern Mexico.
It’s a merry-go-round
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Food, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged carousel, Día de Reyes, El Día De Los Reyes Magos, Epiphany, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Rosca de Reyes, San Pablo Academic and Cultural Center, Tato, Three Kings Day on January 6, 2014| 1 Comment »
We are still enjoying the Christmas merry-go-round in Oaxaca. Lucky for “children” young and old, the San Pablo Cultural and Educational Center has even provided a real (not just metaphorical) carousel to hop on during this holiday season. And today, along with riding the merry-go-round, in honor of Día de Reyes, all were welcome to partake in the traditional Rosca de Reyes (Three Kings cake) — served by none other than Tato, the birdbrain (after all he is an ostrich) Oaxaca Guerreros team (baseball) mascot (though I think he was doing more eating than serving). Thankfully, on this chilly night, there was also hot chocolate (with milk or water, your choice) with which to warm hands and dip cake.
Whew!!! A baby Jesus figurine was not found in my piece of Rosca de Reyes, so I won’t have to throw a tamale and atole party on Candlemas, February 2nd, for everyone present at this evening’s festivities.
The kings are coming
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Parks & Plazas, Travel & Tourism, tagged Día de Reyes, El Día De Los Reyes Magos, Epiphany, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, Three Kings Day, toy drive, toys on January 5, 2014| Leave a Comment »
While Santa Claus is making inroads into Mexico, it’s tonight’s visit by Melchor, Gaspar, and Baltazar that children anxiously await. Los Reyes Magos (the Three Wise Men) bring gifts in Mexico, Latin America, and Spain. Tomorrow, January 6, is El Día de Reyes (aka, Epiphany) and children will scramble to see what the Magi brought them.
Special markets have been set up; puestos upon puestos selling toys, sporting equipment, and any and everything else kids desire. Friday, it was quite a scene on the Alameda, as for the 22nd year, a toy drive, sponsored by El DIF Municipal and Grupo Radio México, was in progress. And, naturally, there were payasos (clowns) to help the kings collect.
According to reports, the Kilómetro del Juguete (kilometer of toys) collected 2500 items on Friday, alone.
From doll buggies to…
to skateboards…
The toys will be distributed to disadvantaged children this afternoon in the Plaza de la Danza, in a program that begins at 5:00 PM. There will be music (of course!), contests, entertainment, and local celebrities. Last year was a hoot!
My upstairs neighbors and I have been without running water since yesterday afternoon. So, we’re just hoping Los Reyes Magos bring us water — preferably today!
Do or don’t do
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged arts, graffiti, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, street art, urban art on January 3, 2014| 4 Comments »
In 2014, don’t…
or do, what feels good.
(In Oaxaca, on Berriozábal at the corner of Reforma.)
I hope you dance in 2014
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Año Nuevo, I Hope You Dance lyrics, Mexico, New Year's Eve, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on December 31, 2013| 16 Comments »
Feliz año nuevo y muchisimas gracias to all my wonderful blog readers — for reading, for commenting, for sharing, for the opportunity to meet some of you, and for inspiring me to continue.
Tonight, don’t forget to eat 12 grapes at midnight, making a wish for the new year as you eat each one. And, if one of your wishes is to travel, take your suitcase out for a walk after you finish your grapes.
My wish for you in 2014…
I Hope You Dance
Written by Mark D. Sanders and Tia Sillers and
recorded by Lee Ann Womack
I hope you never lose your sense of wonder
You get your fill to eat
But always keep that hunger
May you never take one single breath for granted
God forbid love ever leave you empty handed
I hope you still feel small
When you stand by the ocean
Whenever one door closes, I hope one more opens
Promise me that you’ll give faith a fighting chance
And when you get the choice to sit it out or dance
I hope you dance
I hope you dance
I hope you never fear those mountains in the distance
Never settle for the path of least resistance
Living might mean taking chances
But they’re worth taking
Lovin’ might be a mistake
But it’s worth making
Don’t let some hell bent heart
Leave you bitter
When you come close to selling out
Reconsider
Give the heavens above
More than just a passing glance
And when you get the choice to sit it out or dance
I hope you dance
(Time is a wheel in constant motion always)
I hope you dance
(Rolling us along)
I hope you dance
(Tell me who)
I hope you dance
(Wants to look back on their youth and wonder)
(Where those years have gone)
I hope you still feel small
When you stand by the ocean
Whenever one door closes, I hope one more opens
Promise me that you’ll give faith a fighting chance
And when you get the choice to sit it out or dance
Dance
I hope you dance
I hope you dance
(Time is a wheel in constant motion, always)
I hope you dance
(Rolling us along)
I hope you dance
(Tell me who)
(Wants to look back on their youth and wonder)
I hope you dance
(Where those years have gone)
(Tell me who)
I hope you dance
(Wants to look back on their youth and wonder)
(Where those years have gone)
Shadows on the wall
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Fuego Nuevo 2013, Mexico, Mixtec, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, theater, Victor Hugo quote on December 29, 2013| 2 Comments »
To contemplate is to look at shadows. — Victor Hugo
From last night’s “Fuego Nuevo” performance by the Ballet Folklórico Tradicional del Estado de Oaxaca at the Plaza de la Danza. Using music and dance, this “espectáculo” tells the story of the beginning of a new cycle in the Mixteca culture.
(FYI: For those in Oaxaca, it’s free and repeats tonight at 7 PM.)
And the winner is…
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Exhibitions, Holidays, Parks & Plazas, People, Restaurants, Travel & Tourism, tagged artisans, Café Café, Christmas, dried corn husks, Elpidio Adrián González López, Mercado Antiguo en la Plaza de las Armas 1885, Mexico, Night of the Radishes, Noche de Rabanos, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Totomoxtle on December 27, 2013| Leave a Comment »
Despite of the name, Noche de Rábanos isn’t just about carving radishes. The creativity and ingenuity of the gardeners and artisans of Oaxaca in several other categories are also on display — Flor Inmortal (dried flowers), Totomoxtle (dried corn husks) Natural, and Totomoxtle Decorated, as well as two Children’s categories.
First place in the Totomoxtle Natural category went to Elpidio Adrián González López and his amazing creation, Mercado Antiguo en la Plaza de las Armas 1885.
If you missed it December 23 on the zócalo, or want to see it up close and personal, head over to CaféCafé, on the corner of Porfirio Díaz and M. Bravo.
It will be on display until January 6, 2014.
h/t Jane & Ken
¡Feliz Navidad!
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Holidays, Parks & Plazas, People, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged 'Twas the Night Before Christmas, “Lalo” Guerrero, Christmas, Christmas Eve, Eduardo Guerrero, Mexico, Navidad, Noche Buena, Oaxaca, Pancho Claus, photographs, photos, poem, popular travel destinations, ritual procession on December 25, 2013| 8 Comments »
Noche Buena (Christmas Eve) in Oaxaca means posadas from churches around the city converge on the zócalo. Flatbed trucks carrying Jesus, Mary, and Josephs; fireworks, pinwheels, and sparklers; brass bands; China Oaxaqueña folkloric dancers; and the faithful carrying candles arrive to circle the zócalo again and again and again. Spectators, young and old wave sparklers, take photos, and crack powder or confetti filled eggs on each others heads — and it’s quite a scene!
And, in what has become a Christmas Eve tradition (it was still Christmas Eve when I began this post) on my blog, Ernie Villarreal’s version of the song, Pancho Claus, by Chicano music legend, Eduardo “Lalo” Guerrero.
Pancho Claus
‘Twas the night before Christmas and all through la casa
Not a creature was stirring, Caramba! ¿Que pasa?
Los ninos were all tucked away in their camas,
Some in vestidos and some in pajamas.
While Mama worked late in her little cocina,
El viejo was down at the corner cantina.
The stockings were hanging con mucho cuidado,
In hopes that St. Nicholas would feel obligado
To bring all the children, both buenos y malos,
A Nice batch of dulces and other regalos.
Outside in the yard, there arouse such a grito,
That I jumped to my feet, like a frightened cabrito.
I went to the window and looked out afuera,
And who in the world, do you think que era?
Saint Nick in a sleigh and a big red sombrero
Came dashing along like a crazy bombero!
And pulling his sleigh instead of venados,
Were eight little burros approaching volados.
I watched as they came, and this little hombre
Was shouting and whistling and calling by nombre.
¡Ay, Pancho! ¡Ay, Pepe! ¡Ay, Cuca! ¡Ay, Beto!
¡Ay, Chato! ¡¡Ay, Chopo! ¡Maruca and ¡Nieto!
Then standing erect with his hand on his pecho
He flew to the top of our very own techo.
With his round little belly like a bowl of jalea,
He struggled to squeeze down our old chimenea.
Then huffing and puffing, at last in our sala,
With soot smeared all over his red suit de gala.
He filled the stockings with lovely regalos,
For none of the children had been very malos.
Then chuckling aloud and seeming contento,
He turned like a flash and was gone like the viento.
And I heard him exclaim and this is VERDAD,
Merry Christmas to all, And to All ¡Feliz Navidad!
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