She’s gone…
As feared, by order of the government, the beautiful and moving mural by Lapiztola, on the side of Museo Belber Jimenez, has been erased.
Only her ghost remains.
I miss her, too. Color and culture, indeed, seem to be unwelcome.
Archive for the ‘Travel & Tourism’ Category
I miss you, too
Posted in Buildings, Creativity, Culture, Museums, Travel & Tourism, tagged art, Lapiztola, murals, Museo Belber Jimenez, museums, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, urban art, wall art on October 24, 2015| 14 Comments »
Getting ready for Señor del Rayo
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Catedral de Oaxaca, flowers, La catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, lilies, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Señor del Rayo on October 21, 2015| 6 Comments »
I love going into Oaxaca’s cathedral at this time of year, when the fragrance of thousands of flowers, especially lilies, perfumes the air.
The Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción is being readied for October 23, the day Oaxaca celebrates Señor del Rayo.
Like Guelaguetza, Noche de Rabanós (Night of the Radishes), and Día de la Samaritana (Good Samaritan Day), this is an “only in Oaxaca” celebration.
This carving of Christ on the Cross was brought to Oaxaca during the 16th century and was placed in the temple of San Juan de Dios, a church which had adobe walls and a straw (or possibly wood) roof.
Legend has it that lightning struck the church and everything was destroyed, save for this figurine. A miracle!
The statue became known as Señor del Rayo (Lord of Lightning), was placed in his own chapel (the furthest capilla from the main entrance on the left) in the newly built cathedral, and has been much venerated ever since.
October 21, in anticipation of his special day, the cathedral is festooned with lilies and Señor del Rayo is moved out of the glass case in his chapel, to the main altar of the cathedral.
October 22 will be filled with religious and cultural events and at midnight, when the calendar day changes, the cathedral bells will peal and cohetes (rockets) will announce the arrival of Señor del Rayo’s special day.
In honor of His day, on October 23, there will more spiritual and cultural festivities, culminating in a castillo and fireworks.
As the color and scent of the lilies fade, on October 24 Señor del Rayo will be returned to his chapel.
The end of eleven days of festivities celebrating Señor del Rayo.
Art of agave
Posted in Agriculture, Culture, Flora, Travel & Tourism, tagged agave, Lapiztola, mescal, Mexico, mezcal, murals, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, street art, urban art, wall art on October 18, 2015| 3 Comments »
Before a “suspendida” order is slapped on this stunning piece by the Lapiztola collective celebrating the human face of agave cultivation, here is another moving work of art for the people, seen on Tinoco y Palacio on the wall of Piedra Lumbre, near the Sanchez Pascuas mercado. It tells a story…
The wisdom of cultivation handed down from generation to generation.
From the agave comes mezcal.
There are 199 “recognized” species of agave. How many can be used to make mezcal? The Mezcal PhD explores the answer. And, for an illustrated guide to many of the more popular varietals, click The Many Varieties of Mezcal.
Color and culture, unwelcome?
Posted in Buildings, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged art, Central Connecticut State University, Chiquitraca Colectivo, Color y Cultura Empresa Comunitaria, Lapiztola, Mexico, murals, Museo Belber Jimenez, Oaxaca, obra suspendida, photographs, photos, stores, street art, urban art, wall art, work suspended on October 15, 2015| 12 Comments »
As many of you already know, one of my favorite things about living and being in Oaxaca is, you just never know what you will stumble across. Rounding a corner, one might come upon a calenda (parade) with band, marmotas, monos, and dancers; a street artist or payaso (clown) entertaining a gathering of nin@s to abuel@s; street art; or a newly opened store.
So (no surprise), a few months ago, walking up Tinoco y Palacios enroute to the Sanchez Pascuas mercado (in need of a few staples like quesillo, aguacates, and tamales), a stunning new mural caught my eye.
Positioned to entice potential customers into Color y Cultura, a newly opened artisan community shop, the mural is the work of Chiquitraca Colectivo from Juchitán. It worked, I was hooked, and later returned to browse and eventually buy a pair of earrings carved from a gourd. However, during a return trip to the mercado, I was rather shocked to see unsightly papers defacing the mural.
Usually, street murals are “hands off” zones for vandalism. However, closer inspection revealed official notices declaring, “Suspendida” (suspended) and going on to say that the mural violates regulations on the conservation of the historic district.
And, if this weren’t egregious enough, remember the stunning We sow dreams and harvest hope mural on the side of Museo Belber Jimenez?
It too now has appalling “Suspendida” notices plastered on it. WTF is going on??? A little research revealed that a law was recently passed to “criminalize” wall art. Yes, yes, yes… I understand that the “powers that be” and even ordinary residents are sick of graffiti on historic buildings. BUT to lump the anarchist “A” spray-painted on the side of the Cathedral with magnificent murals painted on ugly decaying walls and beautiful works of art privately commissioned by businesses and museums to decorate their buildings, is the height of absurdity, never mind assigning a “criminal” aspect to it. Believe me, Oaxaca has a laundry list of more important issues that it needs to address.
If in their “infinite wisdom” they are attempting to “clean up” the city to better appeal to tourist dollars, euros, yen, etc., then I think they are barking up the wrong tree — we extranjeros (foreigners) love the street art! To that end, below is a copy of a letter I sent to the president of Central Connecticut State University (CCSU) last year, when officially authorized murals painted by art students as part of their course work were ordered removed by the university administration.
Dear President Miller:
I am writing to you from the city of Oaxaca de Juárez in southern Mexico, nestled in the valley where corn was first cultivated. I have the privilege of living in culture that has a deep respect for, and appreciation of, communication through all forms of art.
Oaxaca is filled with museums and public art. In addition, her walls are covered with murals, both officially sanctioned and unauthorized. An example of the latter: My current neighbor, previously lived next to a concrete bench built into a wall along her street. It’s primary function seemed to serve as a gathering place for garbage and graffiti. Being an artist, she painted a living room scene around the bench, replete with, a lamp, bouquets of flowers, pillows on the sofa/bench, and a framed painting with the image of a smiling creature holding a sign that quotes Oaxaca’s favorite son and former Mexican president, Benito Juárez: “El respecto al derecho ajeno es la paz.” (Respect for the rights of others is peace.) It is a quote that every Mexican school child learns and in the eighteen years since the bench and mural were first painted, it has become a beloved icon of the street and very little graffiti and garbage have reappeared.
Oaxaca would lose much of her character and lessons would be lost, if we were to wake one morning and find all her murals disappeared. The story is the same at CCSU and it would be shameful if the beautiful and thought-provoking student murals at CCSU were to be needlessly destroyed.
Galaxy of gastronomy
Posted in Culture, Food, Travel & Tourism, tagged barbacoa, barbecue, cuisine, culinary traditions, dining. El Saber del Sabor, food, food festival, gastronimic festival, gastronomy, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations on October 11, 2015| 2 Comments »
Can you believe it? It seemed that no sooner had last month’s Oaxaca Sabe culinary adventure concluded, than the seventh annual Saber del Sabor: Festival Gastronómico 2015 kicked off. This past Friday, the Plaza de la Danza was tented and decorated for a buffet dinner prepared by cooks from the eight regions of the state of Oaxaca.
For only 300 pesos (approximate $18.50), one could feast on a mind-blowing and waist-expanding galaxy of gastronomic delights.
The dinner seeks to recognize and promote Oaxaca’s traditional cuisine. Always a highlight are the maestros of barbacoa, who brave blistering heat and eye-stinging smoke as they turn and tend the spit-roasted piglets, lambs, and chickens. Alas, this year by 8 PM the line was too long and I elected to miss these always succulent and mouth-watering delights. However, I was in no danger of starving!
1:15 PM – skewers hoisted onto the makeshift barbecue
6:56 PM – another hour of roasting left
Of course, the chefs were the stars of the show and young and old alike savored their creations.
This year El Saber del Sabor is honoring two regional chefs: Young chef, Ixchel Ornelas from Tlaxiaco, in the Mixteca Alta region of Oaxaca and Teotitlán del Valle’s own, Abigail Mendoza, who has done so much to promote and bring respect for Oaxaca’s traditional indigenous methods and flavors.
The festival continues with lectures, workshops, and gourmet meals prepared in the kitchens of Oaxaca’s top restaurants by celebrated chefs from all over Mexico — as well as a couple from Spain and the USA.
Rosario’s Castle
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Banda Herencia Musical, C. Rigoberto y Dagoberto Morales, castillos, celebrations, culture, El Picacho, festivals, Fiesta de la Virgen del Rosario, fireworks, Mexico, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, Teotitlán del Valle, video on October 6, 2015| 4 Comments »
Festival fireworks in Oaxaca are usually 3-part affairs, consisting of toritos (little bulls) and/or canastas (baskets) wired with fireworks and worn on top of the head by daring-do guys (toritos) and gals (canastas). This is followed by a castillo (castle) and then the more familiar rockets-exploding-in-the-sky fireworks most of us have craned our necks and oooh-ed and ahhh-ed over since childhood. Sometimes the order of the latter two is reversed.
The subject of today’s blog post is the castillo that was constructed and executed this past Saturday by “los maestros pirotécnicos los C. Rigoberto y Dagoberto Morales” for the festival in honor of the Santisima Virgen del Rosario (Sainted Virgin of the Rosary) in Teotitlán del Valle. They and their crew went about the business of constructing and wiring this “Erector Set” type castillo out of wood and carrizo in the church courtyard.
I couldn’t resist playing with the saturation on this photo. In my mind’s eye, this is the way it looked.
And, de-saturating this one against the backdrop of El Picacho, the sacred mountain that watches over the village.
The result of the work by these maestros and their crew? A spectacular castillo, accompanied by the band, Herencia Musical. It was quite a show!!!
And, if you want to see some inside action from a torito, check out the video Chris made, Torito Danza – Dancing with Fireworks. He actually attached a POV (Point of View) camera to the torito!!!
Shift change, marmota style
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged calenda, Fiesta de la Virgen del Rosario, marmotas, Mexico, Oaxaca, parades, popular travel destinations, Tlacolula de Matamoros, Virgin of the Rosary on October 3, 2015| Leave a Comment »
Yesterday, we slowly but surely wound our way around a major blockade and made our way 20 miles southeast of the city to Tlacolula de Matamoros. The reason for our tenacity? Their calenda (parade) in honor of la Virgen del Rosario (Virgin of the Rosary) was happening. A major feature, not to mention highlight, of Tlacolula festivals are the marmotas.
Little boys begin by carrying little marmotas; big boys carry big marmotas; and men carry gigantic marmotas. As for the latter, the guys definitely must rely on a little help from their friends.
Time for change of shift…
New guy is helped into position.
That didn’t last long…
Time for another shift change.
All right!!!
Honoring the sacred corn
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Food, Travel & Tourism, tagged agriculture, Coral Saucedo, corn, Día Nacional del Maíz, food, Francisco Toledo, graffiti, maíz, Mexico, mural, National Day of Corn, Oaxaca, Ocote, photographs, photos, Ricardo Aeme, Seasons of My Heart, street art, Susana Trilling, wall art on October 1, 2015| 6 Comments »
September 29 was Día Nacional del Maíz (National Day of Corn) in Mexico. Corn was first cultivated approximately 8,000 years ago in the valley of Oaxaca and native varieties are still grown by the descendants of those original farmers. This was a day to, not only pay homage to Mother Corn but, as Mexican painter Francisco Toledo reminded those along Oaxaca’s Alcalá, to continue the struggle to defend native corn against impending invasion by Monsanto and its genetically modified seeds.
The year revolves around the cycle of corn, which is planted in the same fields as beans and squash to make a perfect growing environment.
The cornstalk grows, the bean plant crawls up the corn, and the squash vine sprawls out and shades the ground to keep it moist… Some of the corn is harvested in August and eaten fresh, while the rest is left on the stalks to dry.
All parts of the corn plant are used — kernels, husks (for tamales), cobs (pig feed), and stalks (cow feed). The dried corn is stored and used in many ways throughout the year.
Text in italics is from the Seasons of My Heart cookbook by Susana Trilling.
The artists of the above, used the signature “olote” which is derived from Nahuatl word, olotl. In English, it translates to “corncob” and “a nobody.” Thank you to a couple of “nobodies,” Coral Saucedo and Ricardo Aeme, for such an expressive and beautiful piece of art honoring the sacred corn.
Ending at the beginning
Posted in Culture, Food, People, Restaurants, Travel & Tourism, tagged food festival, Mexico, Oaxaca, Oaxaca Sabe, Origen, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, restaurants, Roldolfo Castellanos on September 28, 2015| 8 Comments »
Yesterday, we ended our Oaxaca Sabe journey at Origen, the creation of celebrated owner/chef, Rodolfo Castellanos. 
Here, we had a choice between three items for each course. Hmmm, we should have invited a third person to join us! I began with a salad filled with tiny wild and incredibly flavorful mushrooms. The combination of textures and flavors was brilliant.
Ensalada de hongos serranos, toronja, pepitas y manzanita criolla (Wild mushroom salad, grapefruit, local apple puree and pumpkin seeds)
Though the spaghetti and meatballs tempted me (who wouldn’t want to see what a renown Mexican chef does with this Italian/American classic), Chris took care of that. Besides, I’d already decided on pozole, a Mexican comfort food that dates back to Pre-Hispanic days. And, it was sublime!
Pozole verde de pescado (Fish of the day in green hominy soup)
My dessert wasn’t very photogenic but it tasted divine and those meringue wafers melted in the mouth.
Sopa fría de durazno, espumoso, merengue y yogurt (Chilled peach soup, fresh fruit, meringue wafers and frozen yogurt)
We were seated upstairs in a light and airy dining room at a table affording a view of the comings and goings along Avenida Miguel Hidalgo.
Origen provided a lovely and delectable conclusion to our journey through Oaxaca city’s finer dining scene for only 250 pesos (US $14.62) per meal, including beverage. Now, when asked, I have more restaurant recommendations to give — and that’s what restaurant week is all about!
However, I’m looking forward to getting back to the mercados and street food. ¡Buen provecho a tod@s!
Sabina Sabe Sunday
Posted in Culture, Food, Restaurants, Travel & Tourism, tagged food, food festival, Mexico, Miguel Jiménez, Oaxaca, Oaxaca Sabe, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, restaurants, Sabina Sabe on September 28, 2015| 3 Comments »
Dare I admit… It took a couple of phone conversations with blogger buddy Chris on Sunday to motivate us to keep our Oaxaca Sabe restaurant-a-day streak going. Who knew it would be so tiring to dine, photograph, and write about diverse and delicious meals???
We decided to rendezvous at Sabina Sabe — a restaurant that we knew nothing about, but was casual and offered interesting menu choices. I chose the vegetarian and, while not on the menu, its starter was a light and flavorful salad.
Mixed greens with apples, figs, and dried cranberries
I love huitlacoche and my main course did not disappoint.
Gratín de papa con huitlacoche y adobo de chile guajillo (Potato gratin with “corn smut” and dressing of guajillo chili)
The meal concluded with a yummy dessert. We spotted the smiling chef Miguel Jiménez in the kitchen as we left and gave him a thumbs up for our delicious meals.
Gaznates rellenos de mouse de almendra con salsa de chocolate amargo (Cannoli stuffed with almond mousse with dark chocolate sauce)
By the way, I gather that Sabina Sabe used to be on the zócalo, however now it is located on 5 de mayo, across the street from Mujeres Artesanas de las Regiones de Oaxaca (MARO) — you can’t miss the building’s aqua color!
Today, there is no question, we WILL be going to our eighth and final restaurant during Oaxaca Sabe. Stay tuned…
Sabado sabroso
Posted in Culture, Food, Restaurants, Travel & Tourism, tagged Casa Crespo, food, food festival, Mexico, Oaxaca, Oaxaca Sabe, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, restaurants on September 27, 2015| 4 Comments »
Yesterday, albeit with flagging energy, blogger buddy Chris and I climbed the narrow winding staircase that looks down into the tiny kitchen, making our way to the rooftop terrace of Casa Crespo for day six of our odyssey through Oaxaca’s Oaxaca Sabe restaurant scene. However, we perked up when our personable and efficient waiter brought up the fixings for my starter course and a show began.
Table side preparation of a Prehispanic soup unique-to-Oaxaca
Hot river stone dropped into the broth
Seafood cooks and vegetables wait to be added to bubbling broth
Caldo de piedra (Stone soup)
Yes, it was as delicious as it looks, as was my entrée.
Estofado de bodas con pure de papa istmeño (Wedding stew, accompanied by mashed potatoes in the Isthmus of Tehuantepec style)
And then came the divine dessert…
Helado de chocolate de metate (Chocolate ice cream, ingredients ground using a metate)
You can check out Chris’s blog for the spectacular rooftop view and the alternate menu. And, yes we shared! Another day, another tasty meal…
But not forgotten…
Posted in Creativity, Culture, People, Politics, Tragedy, Travel & Tourism, Violence, tagged 43 students, art, Ayotzinapa, Ayotzinapa Justicia video, commemoration, Cristian Tomás Colón Garnica, Escuela Normal Rural Raúl Isidro Burgos, graphic arts, Guerrero, Iguala, normalistas, Oaxaca, photographs, photos, remembrance, student teachers, students Mexico on September 26, 2015| 3 Comments »
It has been one year since 43 normalistas (student teachers) from the Escuela Normal Rural Raúl Isidro Burgos in Ayotzinapa, Guerrero were disappeared and several of their fellow students were murdered.
They are still missing and the truth of what happened that horrifying night has yet to be revealed. The question remains, What happened to the 43 Ayotzinapa students?
Cristian Tomás Colón Garnica of Tlacolula de Matamoros, Oaxaca; his 42 fellow students; 215 other Oaxaqueños, and 26,000+ other Mexicans missing since 2006, are not forgotten by their families, their friends, the people of Mexico, and the world.
We don’t have weapons sir! Why are you aiming at us?
— from the above video, narrated (in English) by Lila Downs.
And so, Mexico Marks One Year Since Disappearance of Students…
Foodie Friday
Posted in Culture, Food, People, Restaurants, Travel & Tourism, tagged Fermín López Damián, food, food festival, Mexico, Oaxaca, Oaxaca Sabe, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, restaurants, Tr3s 3istro, Tres Bistro on September 26, 2015| 4 Comments »
Yesterday was day five of Oaxaca Sabe and restaurant number five for your intrepid foodies. Yes, we are still on a-restaurant-a-day pace. Our choice? Tres Bistro, or as the sign says, Tr3s 3istro.
We had watched as this second floor space above Del Jardín was renovated two years ago and a visiting gal pal and I had eaten there in July 2014. While the food was delicious, the cacophony coming from the occupied zócalo (pirated CDs blasting, amplified speeches blaring, etc.) through the balcony’s giant open sliding glass doors made it a less than pleasurable experience.
However, currently all is quiet on the zócalo front, save for the occasional marimba players, and the menu beckoned. Thus we decided to give it a try. We climbed the beautifully designed curving wooden staircase under the portales and were seated at the second from the left table above. Chips, salsas, and herb butter for our choice of flavorful breads soon followed.
Choices made from the Oaxaca Sabe menu, the fun began! My first course…
Laminado de pulpo con mojo verde, aceite de cacahuate, rábanos y cilantro (Rolled octopus with green sauce, peanut oil, radishes and cilantro)
My entrée…
Risotto de gorgonzola con camarones (Gorgonzola risotto with shrimp)
And, my dessert…
Panacota de frutos rojos y coulis de fresa (Panna cotta of red fruit with strawberry coulis)
For Chris’s menu choices, see his blog post, Oaxaca Sabe – Oaxaca knows….. food!… Day 5 – Tres Bistro. I’ve got to say, the portion sizes were more generous than we’ve become used to and we pushed away from the table feeling quite sated.
Many thanks to chef Fermín López Damián, who was born in the Sierra Norte region of Oaxaca, for a delicious, relaxing, and thoroughly enjoyable dining experience.
Lunch at Luvina
Posted in Culture, Food, People, Restaurants, Travel & Tourism, tagged Carlos García, Chris Stowens, food, food festival, Luvina, Mexico, Oaxaca, Oaxaca Sabe, photographs, photos, popular travel destinations, restaurants on September 25, 2015| 4 Comments »
Another day another Oaxaca Sabe lunch. Yesterday, along with a couple of friends, we celebrated the ## birthday of blogger Chris at Luvina.
The “gifted” birthday boy!
As you can see below, the menu chef Carlos García created was beautifully presented, imaginative and, I can assure you, muy sabrosa. Our first course was out-of-this world, in my humble opinion.
Arroz cremoso con legumbres, calamares y mollejas asadas (Creamy rice with vegetables, grilled calamari and sweetbreads)
Ahhh… Which main course to choose? I chose the rabbit and, naturally, sampled a table mate’s sea bass. Both were delicious.
Conejo chimeco con verduras rostizadas con manteca de pato (Rabbit with roasted vegetables and duck fat)
Robálo al pastor con chichilo negro (Sea bass with chichilo mole)
The dessert got mixed reviews, but I liked the lightness of the brioche. And, yes, the birthday boy’s came with a candle!
Espuma de requesón con bizcocho de pan brioche (Foam of ricotta with a cake of brioche)
It’s somewhat out-of-the way location (off Republica on the block-long Mártires de Tacubaya and across the street from the Kiss the girl goodbye mural) shouldn’t hinder a visit to this light and airy restaurant. By the way, the service was excellent.
Oaxaca Sabe Wednesday
Posted in Culture, Food, People, Restaurants, Travel & Tourism, tagged food, food festival, La Olla, Mexico, Oaxaca, Oaxaca Sabe, photographs, photos, Pilar Cabrera, popular travel destinations, restaurants on September 23, 2015| 4 Comments »
It’s Wednesday and day three of the Oaxaca Sabe restaurant festival. Yesterday, we dined at Pitiona, one of Oaxaca’s most sophisticated and innovative restaurants. Chris, my partner in blogging and food-fest dining crime, beat me to the punch in posting photos of our meal, so I will let his entry speak for both of us.
Today, our Oaxaca Sabe choice was La Olla, one of Oaxaca’s best known restaurants with one of her best loved chefs, Pilar Cabrera at the helm. Here, we were offered an either/or choice for each of the three courses, so I ordered “either” and Chris ordered “or.” Thus, I began with a salad that tasted as delicate and flavorful as it looked.
Ensalada de durazno y queso istmeño (Salad of peaches and cheese from the Isthmus of Tehuantepec)
I’m a sucker 😉 for octopus and this was cooked to melt-in-your-mouth perfection and saucing it with the “usually reserved for special occasions” chichilo mole, provided the taste buds an unexpected flavor explosion.
Chichilo servido con pulpo y arroz (Chichilo mole served with octopus and rice)
And then there was dessert. I opted for the tiramisu, which is an old favorite of mine. It did not disappoint and its layers looked lovely served in a glass, garnished with coffee beans and a single viola blossom.
Tiramisú oaxaqueño (Self explanatory, methinks)
Our compliments to chef Pilar Cabrera and muchisimas gracias for a delicious dining experience. We are sorry to have missed you!
As our meal came to a close, we poured over the Oaxaca Sabe list of restaurants and their menus. More to come. What can I say? This is yummy and fun!
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