Posted in Culture, Food, Restaurants, Signs, Travel & Tourism, tagged Catedral Restaurante, coronavirus fallout, COVID-19 fallout, culinary lovers, Gastronómicos, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos on April 27, 2020| 4 Comments »
Painted on the front of Catedral Restaurante, a message to Oaxaca food lovers…
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Health, People, Travel & Tourism, tagged Batman, Benito Juárez, coronavirus fallout, COVID-19 fallout, cubrebocas, Elise Rubin, face masks, masks, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, press conferences, stencils, street art, tapabocas, urban art, wall art, Yescka on April 23, 2020| 6 Comments »
It’s official, face masks (cubrebocas/tapabocas) are mandatory. At today’s press conference, the governor of Oaxaca announced the steps the state government is taking now that Mexico has entered Phase 3 of its Covid-19 emergency plan. I must say that I was impressed by the visuals as I watched — reporters, the governor’s team of experts, and even the governor at one point were modeling good mask behavior.
And, street artists have been plastering the walls of the city with mask-wearing messages.
A medical masked Batman says, “stay in the house” — by the artist, Yescka.
Former Governor of Oaxaca and beloved former President of Mexico, Benito Juárez rocking a mask.
Not sure this couple is practicing proper mask protocol, not to mention, sana distancia (physical distancing) — by artist Elise Rubin.
Unfortunately, this last image represents what I have observed in my wanderings through the empty streets of the city. On today’s outing to my neighborhood produce truck and then to various tiendas (corner stores) in search of mineral water, eggs, and butter, at least 30% of the people I encountered were not wearing masks. For the most part, it’s not because they are not available. They are selling for ten pesos each (40¢ US) and there are numerous projects making and distributing free cloth masks, including those spearheaded by my amiga Norma Schafer over at Oaxaca Cultural Navigator. I brought a couple of extra masks with me and offered one to the gal at the produce truck, but she declined, saying she already had one. I responded that it was really important that she wear it, but she just shrugged. It’s frustrating!
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Flora, Gardens, Travel & Tourism, tagged Basho quote, cactus flowers, Epiphyllum hookeri, haiku, Mexico, Night Blooming Cereus, Oaxaca, photos, plants on April 21, 2020| 8 Comments »
Spring morning marvel
lovely nameless little hill
on a sea of mist
–Basho
Spring in Oaxaca brings high temperatures, dry hazy skies, the shrill sound of cicadas, and ethereal beauty of these flowers. Whether you call them by their common name, Night Blooming Cereus, or call them by their scientific name, Epiphyllum hookeri, upon waking, their twelve hours of temporal exquisiteness is a spring morning marvel.
Posted in Buildings, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged building colors, Mexico, Oaxaca, paint colors, photos, wall colors on April 19, 2020| 10 Comments »
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Callejón Hidalgo, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photos, street art, urban art, wall art on April 16, 2020| 6 Comments »
I think I’m not alone…
Callejón Hidalgo, Oaxaca de Juárez – (Signed by, “Prost”)
If you need a haircut, raise your hand.
Posted in Buildings, Culture, Flora, Neighborhoods, Travel & Tourism, tagged Barrio de Jalatlaco, Mexico, natural art, Oaxaca, painted walls, photos, plants, still life on April 13, 2020| 2 Comments »
More from Sunday morning social distance strolling in this time of Covid-19…
Calle Manuel Garcia Vigil, Oaxaca de Juárez
Barrio de Jalatlaco, Oaxaca de Juárez
Barrio de Jalatlaco, Oaxaca de Juárez
There is life and there is beauty.
Posted in Celebrations, Culture, Holidays, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged Easter, estandartes, Good Friday, Holy Week, Jesus, Mexico, Oaxaca, Pascuas, penitents, photos, Procesión del Silencio, Procession of Silence, religious banners, Viernes Santo, Virgin Mary on April 10, 2020| 8 Comments »
The sights and sounds of Good Friday in Oaxaca have gone missing. Weeks ago, the archbishop canceled all public Semana Santa (Holy Week) celebrations. Jesús, María, San Pedro, Penitents, religious banners, and devotees are not processing through the streets to the rhythmic beat of a tambor, high-pitched tones of a chirimía, and the sputtering sounds of a rachet. While not religious, I miss it and this year last year’s photos will have to suffice.
The streets are empty, as Viernes Santo has gone silent.
Posted in Health, Travel & Tourism, tagged coronavirus fallout, COVID-19 fallout, empty streets, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, zócalo on April 7, 2020| 4 Comments »
More scenes from Sunday’s silent streets in Oaxaca…
8:40 AM: Northwest corner of the Zócalo
8:41 AM: On the Zócalo looking southeast
8:54 AM: Looking south on Cinco de mayo
9:47 AM: Corner of Reforma and Constitución
10:06 AM: Looking south down Porfirio Díaz
However, Mercado Sánchez Pascuas was hopping — almost a like a pre-pandemic Sunday. Stalls were open, not much physical distancing was going on, and most vendors and customers were mask-less. Note to self: In these times of COVID-19, next time I’m out of tamales, go to the mercado on a quieter day.
Posted in Celebrations, Churches, Creativity, Culture, Religion, Travel & Tourism, tagged churches, Domingo de Ramos, La catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, Mexico, Oaxaca, palm fronds, Palm Sunday, papel picado, photos, popular travel destinations, San Antonino Castillo Velasco, San Salvador image, Templo de San Matías Jalatlaco, Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán on April 5, 2020| 2 Comments »
It’s Domingo de Ramos and in pre-COVID-19 times, from my terrace I would hear an outdoor morning mass being said in the atrium of the Basilica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad. And then, for the past eight years, blogger buddy Chris and I would drive to San Antonino Castillo Velasco for one of the most magical days of the year. However, all was silent this Palm Sunday. So, donning my mask, I went for early Sunday morning walk with my neighbor K. Lonely and poignant scenes met us everywhere our wanderings took us.
Lonely palm fronds in window of Hospital Ángel Vasconcelos on Av. José María Morelos
Doors of Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción were shuttered.
The doors of Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán were open, but nary a soul was in sight.
A mass was being said at Templo de San Matías Jalatlaco, but the doors were shut tight.
However, no sight we saw this morning was as moving as this one posted to the San Antonino Castillo Velasco Facebook page.
San Salvador bereft of his usual bounty stands alone in the atrium of the church in San Antonino Castillo Velasco.
To see San Salvador in his usual Domingo de Ramos splendor and the village procession that takes him, laden with donated fruits, vegetables, herbs, and bread, from the panteón to the church, click HERE.
Posted in Casita Colibrí, Creativity, Culture, Gardens, Travel & Tourism, tagged coronavirus humor, COVID-19 humor, devil mask, garden decor, mascaras, masks, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, terrace garden, wood carving on April 3, 2020| 8 Comments »
My mask is hanging by the front door, ready to be called into service when I have to run those unavoidable errands.
If nothing else, I’m hoping it will scare folks into realizing that I’m serious about physical distancing!
Posted in Churches, Flora, Health, Religion, Signs, Travel & Tourism, tagged activities suspended, Basilica de la Soledad, churches, closed church doors, closed signs, coronavirus fallout, COVID-19 fallout, grocery shopping, Holy Week, markets, pandemic precautions, photos, quantities limited, religious celebrations canceled, Semana Santa on March 31, 2020| 10 Comments »
We couldn’t put it off any longer, non-perishables were needed! Thus, instead of another long leisurely Sunday stroll like last week, my neighbor and I walked (keeping two meters apart) down to Soriana, our local supermarket. We went early in the morning and the streets were mostly empty — making it a piece of cake crossing a particularly dicey intersection. Ready to do battle with the virus, we came armed with alcohol wipes and shopping, paying, and bagging strategies. However, Soriana also was on emergency preparedness alert. Once inside the door, hand-sanitizer was pumped into our hands and the handles of our carts were wiped down with disinfectant.
As we had hoped, there were very few other customers and most seemed very conscious of maintaining social distancing protocol, — the workers stocking the shelves, not so much. There were signs posted limiting the quantities one could purchase of certain items and there were taped lines on the floor in front of the check stands indicating how far apart to stand. Though, one guy didn’t get the message and cut in front of me. I snapped, “sana distancia” at him, he glanced back at the crazy gringa and went to a different line.
My route to Soriana, usually consists of cutting a diagonal across the Plaza de la Danza, walking down the ramp to Jardín Sócrates, and crossing the atrium of the Basilica de la Soledad before tackling the steep stairs down to Av. de la Independencia. Alas, this trip, it wasn’t to be — the atrium doors facing the Jardín were locked up tight, as were the ones at the top of the stairs on Independencia.
Signs were tacked to the massive doors indicating all masses had been suspended until further notice. It was all quiet on the church front and the realization hit me that I hadn’t heard a single church bell in days, if not a week — which sounds about right because, on March 21, the Archdiocese of Oaxaca announced the suspension of all Eucharistic celebrations, including Easter. In addition, the Archbishop has called on Catholics to stay home during Holy Week, in order to limit the spread of COVID-19 between people and communities.
Health officials have been running public service announcements on the TV telling people to stay home and advising them, if they must go out, on methods to avoiding catching and spreading the virus. And, yesterday the Mexican government declared a state of health emergency and ordered a suspension of all non-essential businesses and activities until April 30th. For businesses, the restrictions are mandatory, however for people it is an “emphatic invitation.” President Andrés Manuel López Orbrador’s gradual approach to the pandemic has been highly criticized in some quarters, though the strategy has been praised by representatives of the World Health Organization. However, most agree that stricter measures will have to be implemented once the pandemic really hits.
Posted in Buildings, Creativity, Culture, Signs, Travel & Tourism, tagged abandoned buildings, blog 10th anniversary, blogging, crumbling buildings, dilapidated buildings, DNL UNKLE, murals, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, street art, wall art on March 28, 2020| 35 Comments »
Remember the Not for sale! building at the corner of Matamoros and Crespo? It’s been one of the buildings in a “mal estado” (bad state) since long before my first visit to Oaxaca in 2007. A portion of the Crespo facing wall finally collapsed at the end of an extremely wet 2012 rainy season. And, following the September 2017 earthquakes, what remained of the wall gave way, necessitating a barricade along the sidewalk.
As last Sunday’s stroll in the time of… showed, the barricade was in the process of getting its own facelift. It’s finished and it looks terrific.
However, as the owner, with the help of the artist, continues to make clear, the answer is NO. The building is not for sale!
By the way, while trying to locate the oldest photo I have of this wall, I discovered that I had missed the tenth anniversary of View From Casita Colibrí. It was March 25, 2010, with the post, Awake at 4:30 AM, that I began this blog. Its last line reads, “Whatever the reasons… here’s hoping I become a little braver in revealing myself, don’t let my perfectionist streak get in the way of posting and I stick with it!” I’ve definitely stuck with it, have overcome my fear of the writing and photos not being perfect (though I try to maintain my librarian commitment to accuracy), and have hopefully allowed a bit of “who I am” to be expressed in these ten years of blog posts. Here’s to another ten!
Posted in Markets, Parks & Plazas, Protests, Travel & Tourism, tagged coronavirus fallout, COVID-19 fallout, empty streets, grocery shopping, markets, Mercado Benito Juárez, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, plantón, traffic, zócalo on March 26, 2020| 6 Comments »
Yesterday, with a fair degree of trepidation, I ventured out onto the streets of Oaxaca. Even during these times of coronavirus, a gal has to eat, thus a trip to Mercado Benito Juárez could no longer be put off. Unfortunately, I got a late start and didn’t leave until almost 10:30 AM but, happily, my first observation was that traffic was much lighter.
Walking east on Av. Morelos
However, much to my dismay the zócalo was lined with food and vendor stalls and continues to be occupied with a plantón in front of the Government Palace. This, after a caravan of municipal police trucks mounted with loudspeakers plied the streets on Monday advising people not to gather in groups, to maintain “sana distancia” (healthy distancing), and to try to stay home.
Protest encampment in the zócalo
I walked through, trying to avoid coming within a meter of anyone and making a beeline toward the market. An aside: Afternoon temperatures continue to hover around 90º F and, yes, the sky is that blue!
Facing south on Calle Flores Magón
I turned right on Las Casas and discovered cleaners power washing the sidewalk in front of Mercado Benito Juárez.
Trying not to get wet, I ducked inside the unusually quiet market.
Main aisle just inside Mercado Benito Juárez
I quickly made my rounds: Almita’s for pecans, my favorite poultry stall for chicken thighs, and my fruit and vegetable stand for avocados and carrots. Though the market was less crowded than usual, the aisles are narrow making it nearly impossible to maintain “sana distancia” and so I cut my trip short.
Looking west on Calle Valerio Trujano
Avoiding the zócalo, I headed for home. I think I’m going to skip Mercado Benito Juárez (except for Mario, my coffee bean guy) for the duration and limit my shopping to the smaller Mercado Sánchez Pascuas up the hill and perhaps begin patronizing the people who sell produce from their truck on Monday and Thursday mornings just a block away. We are living in the days of making adjustments…
Posted in Creativity, Culture, Flora, Food, Restaurants, Travel & Tourism, tagged breakfast, Dama de noche, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, flowers, Mexico, murals, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations, Primavera rosa, street art, trees, wall art on March 22, 2020| 16 Comments »
Sunday mornings have always been my favorite time to wander through the neighborhoods of Oaxaca. Traffic is light, sidewalks are mostly empty, and the city seems nestled under a blanket of tranquility. Thus, in these days of an abundance of alone-at-home time, a long peaceful walk with my neighbor (maintaining sana distancia/social distancing, of course) was just what the doctor ordered.
Out the door and up the hill, we went.
“Hola, buenos días” greetings were exchanged with the few people we encountered — many walking their dogs.
Though we weren’t planning to eat, we stumbled on a lovely garden restaurant – Ancestral Cocina Tradicional — and couldn’t resist sitting down in their sun-dappled courtyard for a quesillo and huitlacoche quesadilla, washed down with a healthy jugo verde. Everything about the restaurant was done with care and attention — including being mindful of COVID-19 concerns.
Emerging from the restaurant, we continued our ramble, admiring architecture, street art, and the beauty of dry season flowers.
This Dama de Noche (Epiphyllum oxypetalum) stopped us in our tracks!
After three hours, we returned to our homes feeling refreshed, appreciative of Oaxaca’s many gifts, and feeling like we can get through this — despite the puppet masters.
Posted in Celebrations, Creativity, Culture, Travel & Tourism, tagged Aguilar family, Andares del Arte Popular, artisans, ceramics, coronavirus fallout, COVID-19 fallout, Day of the Artisan, Día del Artesano, Mexico, Oaxaca, photos, popular travel destinations on March 20, 2020| 6 Comments »
Yesterday (March 19), Mexico celebrated the Day of the Artisan. Well, celebrated isn’t really the right word. COVID-19 (aka, coronavirus) was the elephant in the country.
I had long-planned to attend the always well curated 3-day Día del Artesano craft sale at Andares del Arte Popular. It’s an opportunity to meet and buy directly from the craftspeople who weave the rugs, embroider the cloth, shape the clay, carve and paint the wood, and the work of other amazingly talented artisans.
However, the sale was very responsibly canceled. Tourists and winter visitors are scrambling to return home as soon as possible, restaurants are either closing or offering only take-out service, and as I write, the city has begun instituting measures to restrict people from gathering in public spaces and calling on public transit to limit or suspend service, among other actions.
Oaxaca’s tourist-driven economy is going to take a tremendous hit. Right now, the best way to honor the artisans is to treasure the beauty they have brought to our lives. And, when the day eventually comes that we can again move about freely, we should seek them out, thank them for joy their talent brings us, and (hopefully) empty our pocketbooks a little more than usual.
Almost life-size ceramic sculptures are by the Aguilar family in Ocotlán de Morelos and were on display at Andares this month.
Mexican Peso Converter
View From Casita Colibrí 
